Garage5.9
Well-known member
Sorry for not reading nor searching but can you lift a mid size car/truck in a 8 foot high ceiling garage to max height ?
Maxjax Installs: Post Here
- Thread starter G-force
- Start date
les_garten
Banned
You can if your truck is only 4' tall...
abstamaria
Well-known member
Yes, I'm probably clinically OC, Dermobydave. I'm a bit far from you now, but for some years we lived in Ithaca, NY, then NYC. That was decades ago.
Actually, that "flamed" cabinet is quite attractive, Les.
I tried the Stratos on the MaxJax today. O had to cut thick rubber pads to isolate some brake lines and keep them from getting crushed, but the car went up easily after that. I can get the car to topmost stop with clearance from the ceiling to spare.
Andy
Actually, that "flamed" cabinet is quite attractive, Les.
I tried the Stratos on the MaxJax today. O had to cut thick rubber pads to isolate some brake lines and keep them from getting crushed, but the car went up easily after that. I can get the car to topmost stop with clearance from the ceiling to spare.
Andy
abstamaria
Well-known member
Another car on Lift
Here is the Stratos on the lift, this time on the uppermost safety stop. You can see there is plenty of space to the ceiling, but then this is a low car. I find the height underneath the car comfortable.
I was apprehensive that the lift would cramp my working area, which is not large, but there is actually room around the posts. The small MaxJax posts are not obtrusive.
One of the cylinders moaned when lifting under load a week ago. Upon advice by Gabe from Danmar, I added about half a quart of Caterpillar anti-chatter additive and this seems to have cured that.
This concludes my report on my MaxJax install and, no news being good news, I hope I will have nothing to report later.
Regards.
Andy
Here is the Stratos on the lift, this time on the uppermost safety stop. You can see there is plenty of space to the ceiling, but then this is a low car. I find the height underneath the car comfortable.
I was apprehensive that the lift would cramp my working area, which is not large, but there is actually room around the posts. The small MaxJax posts are not obtrusive.
One of the cylinders moaned when lifting under load a week ago. Upon advice by Gabe from Danmar, I added about half a quart of Caterpillar anti-chatter additive and this seems to have cured that.
This concludes my report on my MaxJax install and, no news being good news, I hope I will have nothing to report later.
Regards.
Andy
Attachments
Yea, I'm really wanting one these lifts, and it would be good if there was another group buy or special price for the Garage Journal members. I have finally gotten money enough to try and buy one of these, let's hope they help us out.
Same here. Anything coming up ??
North of 40
Member
Need some tips
I am permanently installing my MaxJax Lift.
Put together all my new longer hoses, but some of the fittings slightly leak.
Used approx. 3 wraps of Teflon tape on all threads and they are good and tight.
Are there any tricks to ensuring no leaks?
Can you overtighten a fitting and create a leak with Teflon Tape?
Any ideas would be appreciated
I am permanently installing my MaxJax Lift.
Put together all my new longer hoses, but some of the fittings slightly leak.
Used approx. 3 wraps of Teflon tape on all threads and they are good and tight.
Are there any tricks to ensuring no leaks?
Can you overtighten a fitting and create a leak with Teflon Tape?
Any ideas would be appreciated
Jvvmusme
Well-known member
Some of my fittings also leak. I think they are british and therefore leak. Having several british cars a leak does not worry me at all. i do not think overtighting can cause a leak...on the contrary...
Epoxy anchors
Here is my experience with epoxy anchors:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120172
Here is my experience with epoxy anchors:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120172
les_garten
Banned
Re: Epoxy anchors
Thanx! Informative thread.
Did you order the epoxy anchors as an option? I think the jack always comes with the wedge anchors as standard.
Thanx! Informative thread.
Did you order the epoxy anchors as an option? I think the jack always comes with the wedge anchors as standard.
North of 40
Member
Any other comments or suggestions to my question Below?
"--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Need some tips
I am permanently installing my MaxJax Lift.
Put together all my new longer hoses, but some of the fittings slightly leak.
Used approx. 3 wraps of Teflon tape on all threads and they are good and tight.
Are there any tricks to ensuring no leaks?
Can you overtighten a fitting and create a leak with Teflon Tape?
Any ideas would be appreciated"
"--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Need some tips
I am permanently installing my MaxJax Lift.
Put together all my new longer hoses, but some of the fittings slightly leak.
Used approx. 3 wraps of Teflon tape on all threads and they are good and tight.
Are there any tricks to ensuring no leaks?
Can you overtighten a fitting and create a leak with Teflon Tape?
Any ideas would be appreciated"
Re: Epoxy anchors
No, I installed the wedge anchors, but they just didn't hold securely. My concrete is very hard, maybe that was the trouble that they didn't hold. When I drilled my Mom's porch to build a ramp it drilled easily. Mine, by contrast took much longer.
I drove the wedge anchors down into the gravel and then put in the epoxy anchors. I think they should give the option of getting epoxy anchors, but there are problems to be resolved first.
No, I installed the wedge anchors, but they just didn't hold securely. My concrete is very hard, maybe that was the trouble that they didn't hold. When I drilled my Mom's porch to build a ramp it drilled easily. Mine, by contrast took much longer.
I drove the wedge anchors down into the gravel and then put in the epoxy anchors. I think they should give the option of getting epoxy anchors, but there are problems to be resolved first.
abstamaria
Well-known member
North of 40, I don't know enough about pipe threads to advise you. There have been a number of threads on the topic though, including on the number of Teflon wraps that is ideal (two, I recall). Since these are tapered threads, I assume tighter would be better, but again better to consult the experts (many on this forum). You might get better input of you started a new thread, perhaps called "pipe thread leaks; help please" or similar. You could also Google the topic and also ask Danmar (Gabe); they are quite helpful.
I really tightened my fittings. You could in the meantime try that, but be careful not to strip the threads.
Andy
I really tightened my fittings. You could in the meantime try that, but be careful not to strip the threads.
Andy
abstamaria
Well-known member
Hello, Wiggum. I used a vinyl wrap for the posts, so I woudn't have to bring them out and tape them for painting. The arms are painted (Dupont Imron, which is supposed to be a tough paint).
Andy
Andy
My GT3 has a full Cup Car suspesion and the bottom of the front bumper (without the front spoiler installed) is about 4" above the pavement, thus the arms won't go under the car witout lifting it up. 2 pr of race ramps (about $90 pr from amazon.com) raise the car nearly 3 1/2" and solved the problem.
les_garten
Banned
Can you post a link to those ramps? I'm trying to follow you here how you are doing this. I have a 930 with it's belly on the ground as well.
UPSHIFT
Well-known member
I believe this is the link below, however cut pieces of 2X12's are also an option. I use these on my VW with 2.5" clearance.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZAB9QG/?tag=atomicindus08-20
les_garten
Banned
Nogglefish
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2007
- Messages
- 46
A bit late to the game here but just ordered my unit. Thanks so much for all of the info.
Question: Is this the kit that people are suggesting from Garage Equip Supply for the epoxy anchors? http://www.gesusa.com/Epoxy-Grip-Anchor-Bolt-Kit-p/100121.htm
Thanks!
Question: Is this the kit that people are suggesting from Garage Equip Supply for the epoxy anchors? http://www.gesusa.com/Epoxy-Grip-Anchor-Bolt-Kit-p/100121.htm
Thanks!
olytdi
Well-known member
Mine arrived last night. Not even unpacked yet but will document the install. Planning on using the provided anchors. Is this considered a mistake?
Chetter
Well-known member
I got mine last Friday, pretty much have it all together but waiting for the correct anchor system to arrive. My lift didn't come with the power drop anchors, instead, mine came with a stud type kit which is no good to me since I want no studs sticking up through the floor. By everything I have read both from here and the manufacturer of the anchor system, any failures are pretty due to incorrect installation and initial setting of the anchors. I will use the system and see what happens. I will drill my holes with the post in place with the 5/8" drill first and the post will be my guide to keep the drill straight while I drill, then, per their instructions and video, move the post and drill out with the 7/8" bit. That way the holes are where they are supposed to be. I'm spending a lot of time trying to figure what spacing I want to use as well as where in the bay to install it for best overall space and usage.
I think that is the one that I used after I was not satisfied with the wedge-type anchors; I am away from home at this time. If you decide to use those, you might want to look at my report:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120172
HTH,
Brady
olytdi
Well-known member
Would like to hear how you are coming to your decisions on placement -- especially spacing between posts.
abstamaria
Well-known member
Olitdi, unless you have the same range of vehcles as Chetter. his spacing might not suit yours. One of the contributors here gave me good advice - mark the lift points of the vehicles you want to lift on a large cardboard sheet, place the cardboard sheet between the posts, and position the posts so that the lift arms can reach all the lift points. Good luck!
Andy
Andy
Jvvmusme
Well-known member
knagy389us
Well-known member
+1 on another group buy!
les_garten
Banned
You got a car there that must be a flying saucer! It's defying gravity!
Nick DL
Well-known member
AnthonyNYC
Member
I would be in as well. I am looking to purchase within the next month at the latest. Will be paying cash if needed, that helps sometimes.
I was going to purchase through Costo but the price jumped from $1799 to $2299 in ONE month! Anyone know the cheapest place to get this lift in the event the group buy does not have enough interest?
Anthony
Last edited:
isaac338
Well-known member
Here's mine set in place, before I installed the anchors:
I made a couple of simple brackets to hold the cart atop one of the posts - I hate kneeling down to do stuff.
I had a 6 foot hose with 3/8" NPTM ends made up at Princess Auto (cost around $30); the new hose connects the post closest to the cart. The other two hoses are joined in the middle with a union and are attached to the joists above so there's nothing on the floor and it's a permanent install.
There's an outlet right above the post in the ceiling which the power pack plugs in to. I can still unbolt the post, undo the quick connects, unplug the pack, and roll the post out of the way with the pack attached to it.
Holds the mustang quite nicely (I still need to move those lights into between the joists to free up that critical 4" of height).
I made a couple of simple brackets to hold the cart atop one of the posts - I hate kneeling down to do stuff.
I had a 6 foot hose with 3/8" NPTM ends made up at Princess Auto (cost around $30); the new hose connects the post closest to the cart. The other two hoses are joined in the middle with a union and are attached to the joists above so there's nothing on the floor and it's a permanent install.
There's an outlet right above the post in the ceiling which the power pack plugs in to. I can still unbolt the post, undo the quick connects, unplug the pack, and roll the post out of the way with the pack attached to it.
Holds the mustang quite nicely (I still need to move those lights into between the joists to free up that critical 4" of height).
les_garten
Banned
I'm curious about your short hose -- Long hose setup.
Will it affect the raise level?
Will it affect the raise level?
olytdi
Well-known member
I had an interesting problem arise while mounting my pump assembly on the little cart. The hose between the flow divider and the pump outlet was about an inch and a half too long when all of the components were bolted to the mount plate of the cart. I ended-up having to photograph the situation and send that to Dannmar tech support (a guy named Marco) who got a new hose made-up at a (hopefully) better length. So, another week before I can resume the install...The space between the two fittings on my setup is about 10.25 inches; the hose I was sent was 11.5 inches. They don't know why or how this happened but were very accommodating with regard to correcting the situation.
abstamaria
Well-known member
I didn't realize you installed Wej-its on the driver, too. Good idea. Ypu have great cars!
Jvvmusme
Well-known member
Yes ! I installed anchors in 2 differnt locations, inside the garage and in the driveway. The best idea i ve had so far....
Happy new year to all, specially in the far east....
Jose
isaac338
Well-known member
Nope, once it's all bled the length of hose doesn't matter (within reason). It was a hell of a lot cheaper having a 6' hose made than it would have been to have a 12' or longer hose made.
les_garten
Banned
Thanx, I like your mounting of the pump.
olytdi
Well-known member
isaac338 -- I'm not fully understanding your pump mounting solution. When reading your decription of the pump mounted on the column, it sounds like that's where it resides while the lift is in use. But in one of the photos, it isn't on the column and appears to be on the floor in front of the lifted car. Was that a photo of the car lifted prior to mounting your power unit on the column?
Lastly, if it does now reside on the column, is there any clumsiness with operating the unit while hanging from the column? Does the piston clear well?
This certainly sounds like a really good way to go permenent and clear the hoses without getting all elaborate with remote mounting of the power unit...
Lastly, if it does now reside on the column, is there any clumsiness with operating the unit while hanging from the column? Does the piston clear well?
This certainly sounds like a really good way to go permenent and clear the hoses without getting all elaborate with remote mounting of the power unit...
olytdi
Well-known member
I'm still awaiting the correct hose from Dannmar (the one between the flow divider and the pump) so I'm concentrating on the holes today.
I decided to space the columns at a distance farthest apart that would still reach my narrowest car's mounting spots. In this case my Trooper which actually is half a foot narrower than my VW Golf! Go figure. So at 124 inches, I can reach the narrow Trooper frame rails and then fit wider cars as needed. I think using your narrowest vehicle for reference and spacing the columns the furthest apart to accommodate that will give the most lattitude for other cars short of drilling a second set of mounting holes.
God I hope I don't screw-up the anchor install.... and that my concrete's up to snuff...
I decided to space the columns at a distance farthest apart that would still reach my narrowest car's mounting spots. In this case my Trooper which actually is half a foot narrower than my VW Golf! Go figure. So at 124 inches, I can reach the narrow Trooper frame rails and then fit wider cars as needed. I think using your narrowest vehicle for reference and spacing the columns the furthest apart to accommodate that will give the most lattitude for other cars short of drilling a second set of mounting holes.
God I hope I don't screw-up the anchor install.... and that my concrete's up to snuff...
isaac338
Well-known member
Yeah, sorry, I didn't do a very good job with the photos. The pics with the car in the air were before I rigged the power pack onto the column, just to make sure everything was working.
The power pack stays on the column all the time now, although to remove it is simply a matter of disconnecting the hoses and lifting it off (the brackets I made just slide over the top of the column and bolt to the cart). It doesn't interfere with the cylinder or anything, and it puts the controls and spacers up at a comfortable working height, and provides a couple of handy hooks to hang trouble lights on.
I'll try to get a better picture of the setup now.