Maxjax Installs: Post Here

[skamp]

You look like you are about 135" apart, is that correct?

They are 129" from the outsides of the columns.

Steve

 

[skamp]

Steve,
Can we get a detail pic of the pump mounted on the column?

If you look up a bit on page 32 I posted pictures of how I mounted the pump to the column.

Steve

 

[halo]

Question for the gallery

In the process of installing the 2 posts and attempted to place them with my laser line. Only problem I just noticed is that the posts are not welded to the base plate accurately. I found approximately 3/4 inch difference on each base plate weld which then put the laser line off when shooting from post to post. Seems that the only way to align properly is from the post and not the base plate. Anyone with similar problems??

 

[bsaint]

How come red head wedge anchors won't work?

 

[mercury26]

Question for the gallery

In the process of installing the 2 posts and attempted to place them with my laser line. Only problem I just noticed is that the posts are not welded to the base plate accurately. I found approximately 3/4 inch difference on each base plate weld which then put the laser line off when shooting from post to post. Seems that the only way to align properly is from the post and not the base plate. Anyone with similar problems??

I used multiple points at bottom and top of the columns to measure distance. My plates were pretty darn accurate, but you really want the columns aligned not the base plates. If the columns are square with base plates, then all the better!

Regards,

Chuck

 

[halo]

Looking to buy the epoxy drop ins in order to have a 2nd mount location. Where are people buying these - expensive.....

 

[skamp]

Looking to buy the epoxy drop ins in order to have a 2nd mount location. Where are people buying these - expensive.....

GES is your best bet. They have a kit that is way less than everyone else.

http://www.gesusa.com/Epoxy-Grip-Anchor-Bolt-Kit-p/100121.htm

Steve

 

[Scottishross]

can u buy this in the uk if so whats the best company to buy from

 

[motorheadsdiygarage]

Mounted my trolley on the post with 2 angle brackets. They just hook over the edge of the column so when I need to store the column for the winter I just lift the trolley down. The hose I will leave tyrapped to the rafter and bag the end to prevent drips.

 

[halo]

Thanks all for the useful info

Have height constraints in the garage and was looking to pour a cement foundation outside to use during the summer as a 2nd mount location.

Have a gravel drive and need to pour a cement base for each side. Anyone know a proper depth and size for the cement pour? Live in PA so I was thinking at least 36 inches down for frost line considerations..

Any help/advise appreciated...

Dave

 

[RAYJAY]

Thanks all for the useful info

Have height constraints in the garage and was looking to pour a cement foundation outside to use during the summer as a 2nd mount location.

Have a gravel drive and need to pour a cement base for each side. Anyone know a proper depth and size for the cement pour? Live in PA so I was thinking at least 36 inches down for frost line considerations..

Any help/advise appreciated...

Dave

off topic but Dave where in PA are you ?? we live above Scranton PA ans as for the pads it would depend on where in Pa you are .

Jeff

 

[skamp]

Thanks all for the useful info

Have height constraints in the garage and was looking to pour a cement foundation outside to use during the summer as a 2nd mount location.

Have a gravel drive and need to pour a cement base for each side. Anyone know a proper depth and size for the cement pour? Live in PA so I was thinking at least 36 inches down for frost line considerations..

Any help/advise appreciated...

Dave

Most people seem to go with a 4'x4' pad. I have seen some with as small as 2'x2' but not sure I would do that.

Steve

 

[73 Mustang Bill]

If I were doing it ouside in PA (I grew up north of Pgh), I think I'd dig down below the frost line and pour the width of the lift plus some (10 feet or more) as one continuous pour, with steel inside. A few buck more in concrete, but it would be a firm foundation to keep 3000-6000 lns of steel from falling on you. That way, one side isn't going to heave due to frost, and if the entire thing heaves, at least your posts are perpendicalar.

Just my $0.02 worth

 

[northerngmc]

Has anyone used the MaxJax for storage with a deck?

I am looking for option to store off season toys (snowmobiles/motorbikes) and the standard 4 post lifts seem larger than I need or want.

I am considered buying the MaxJax and then building a deck the the swing arms will pick up. This way I can build the deck to the size I want. I will also have a second set of holes in an open area for vehicle work if needed.

 

[IONH]

Has anyone used the MaxJax for storage with a deck?

I am looking for option to store off season toys (snowmobiles/motorbikes) and the standard 4 post lifts seem larger than I need or want.

I am considered buying the MaxJax and then building a deck the the swing arms will pick up. This way I can build the deck to the size I want. I will also have a second set of holes in an open area for vehicle work if needed.

This lift only has a maximum lift of 45 inches. I understand what you are trying to do and the 4 post would probably be easier and safer. If your home built deck is longer than the arms, there may be a safety issue should the load be unbalanced.

 

[dr bob]

Has anyone used the MaxJax for storage with a deck?

I am looking for option to store off season toys (snowmobiles/motorbikes) and the standard 4 post lifts seem larger than I need or want.

I am considered buying the MaxJax and then building a deck the the swing arms will pick up. This way I can build the deck to the size I want. I will also have a second set of holes in an open area for vehicle work if needed.

I haven't thought of using it for storage, but it wouldn't be too difficult. As IONH points out, the total rise on the column is 45". The design of your tray would need to consider that especially if the toy you plan to put under the arms is taller than that 45". Option 1 for a tray would include pins that match the holes in the arms normally used by the lift pads. Easy method for this would be to buy extra short lift pad extensions and weld them to the bottom supports of the tray. That way the tray wouldn't roll. If the 45" height turns out to be an issue, Option 2 for your tray would include a section of channel that would fit around the column bracket where the factory arms attach. Your tray would attach to that channel using the supplied pins normally used for the arms, attached at whatever height you'd need to clear the bottom toy. Of course you'd have to get the top toy up to whatever the lowered height of the tray ends up, but that's likely to be low enough that the ramps you use now to get them into your truck or trailer would be OK.

Those are my initial thoughts anyway.

 

[mercury26]

OK, new footings poured on Monday. Here are some pics. Now the 30 day wait for everything to fully cure.

I drilled and set the epoxy anchors a couple weeks ago. Epoxy worked very nicely, but I used a lot of it. I ended up using (3) tubes, just because I want to make sure that I had enough in each hole. Everything torqued up very nicely, though one of the new footings was not entirely level (had to use some shims).

I hooked up all the hydraulics up last night and bled the system. I am having an issue where one side is going up a little faster then the other. Though they will hit the same height at full extension. When they come down, they stay level. I may have a cylinder that is leaking, have to check it tonight. I changed the Teflon tape on the thread a couple times and feel confident the thread are not leaking.

I will also swap the hoses tonight to see if the issue is the flow divider. Making progress but slow.

A last point on this post, definitely recommend the epoxy anchors. I much preferred setting them then wedge/mechanical anchors.

Regards,

Chuck

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Re: Maxjax Installs: hose question

Here are photos of somebody's hoses from their answer to me in this prior thread:

And here is my cheapo looking hose that came with mine in April of 2010 (It looks like they switched to some generic made in china no-name hose supplier):

That looks great as far as mounting it on the wall... How are the hoses mounted and routed?

I am pretty sure I'm getting this but want to make sure I can do the above... seems way better than the cart... That way I can just remove one of the posts and keep the other up, rather than moving both posts and a cart...

-Nigel

 

[NewShockerGuy]

So are we saying use the supplied anchors that comes with the lift or use the above link for the epoxy ones?

I am picking this lift up on Sunday and hope to have the holes drilled by monday/tuesday... I want to make sure it holds obviously... Seems like a lot of conflicting information in here but also usefull information... just want to know what's best so I don't die...

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

[abstamaria]

Nigel, I used the supplied mechanical anchors, as have many on this thread and GJ. Installed well, experience has been excellent with them. Epoxy or chemical anchors are probably superior and more tolerant of inaccurate drilling. So the answer is you can go either way.

Andy

 

[330i zhp]

I rcvd my maxjax on Thursday. Had it all unpacked that afternoon. Waiting for the wire brush drill attachment - Lowe's only had the extension and 5/8" brush

According to the Red Head site - I need the 1 1/4 or 1 1/2" wire brush attachment

I bought a new Milwaukee Hammer Drill and the Bosch 7/8" cement drill bits.

I need to determine where to mount the posts

 

[NewShockerGuy]

One a side question.

What is the best way to plug the holes for an epoxy floor. I am going to be laying my epoxy floor down on Wednesday. I want to have the holes drilled and cleaned by Monday/Tuesday. I was told just plug the holes and then wrap the what ever I used to plug them with the shiny side out of duct tape since epoxy doesn't like to stick to that...

Any other recommendations. I don't want the epoxy to get into the holes..


As far as the epoxy anchors, do you use the supplied bolts in the lift or do you use different type bolts? I think just drilling in the perfectly fine garage floor is what is bothering me...lol Are the holes the same width using the epoxy bolts? I've never used them ever nor have I drilled into concrete.. I can't imagine this process being hard.. I've done harder but I think it's just the fact that it's not something like dry wall where I cna patch right?... once I start there is no turning back...lol

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

[JMcFly]

Just get some bolts that match up and have them a bit longer and thread them in.i used to cover bolts with vaseline if I did not want them to bond to fiberglass or heavy duty adhesive. Should work for the epoxy.

 

[skamp]

One a side question.

What is the best way to plug the holes for an epoxy floor. I am going to be laying my epoxy floor down on Wednesday. I want to have the holes drilled and cleaned by Monday/Tuesday. I was told just plug the holes and then wrap the what ever I used to plug them with the shiny side out of duct tape since epoxy doesn't like to stick to that...

Any other recommendations. I don't want the epoxy to get into the holes..


As far as the epoxy anchors, do you use the supplied bolts in the lift or do you use different type bolts? I think just drilling in the perfectly fine garage floor is what is bothering me...lol Are the holes the same width using the epoxy bolts? I've never used them ever nor have I drilled into concrete.. I can't imagine this process being hard.. I've done harder but I think it's just the fact that it's not something like dry wall where I cna patch right?... once I start there is no turning back...lol

Thanks,
-Nigel

Why not use a rubber stopper in the holes? They sell them at lowes and HD. That should give a nice tight seal. Also when you use the epoxy anchors the holes cannot be too clean. You need to brush and blow/vacuum out the dust at least 3 times. As far as the bolts there is no reason to not use the ones that came with the lift as long as you got the same size anchor in the epoxy type. The hole is 7/8" and the bolt is 5/8" normally.

Steve

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Wouldn't the epoxy stick to to the rubber stoppers... I would need them to stick out of the holes and not be flush for when I lay the epoxy down.

Is the process teh same for the epxoy anchors, or do I epoxy them in there and that's it.. do they require torquing or anything of that nature?

-Nigel

 

[skamp]

Wouldn't the epoxy stick to to the rubber stoppers... I would need them to stick out of the holes and not be flush for when I lay the epoxy down.

Is the process teh same for the epxoy anchors, or do I epoxy them in there and that's it.. do they require torquing or anything of that nature?

-Nigel

It might but just jam them in and take a qtip put a little vaseline around the outside. As far as the anchor. You set them to the right depth (I think flush to the concrete) and leave them for 24 hours or whatever it calls for. I you punch through the concrete when you drill make sure you fill the hole cavity with something so the epoxy fills the hole right. What I mean by this is the hole should be 6.25" or so. If it is deeper you should fill it with something so the depth is only 6.25". If you don't you will use a ton epoxy to fill the area below 6.25" which is a waste.

Steve

 

[abstamaria]

Nigel, why not paint first, then drill? That's what I did.

Best of luck,

Andres

 

[northerngmc]

This lift only has a maximum lift of 45 inches. I understand what you are trying to do and the 4 post would probably be easier and safer. If your home built deck is longer than the arms, there may be a safety issue should the load be unbalanced.

I haven't thought of using it for storage, but it wouldn't be too difficult. As IONH points out, the total rise on the column is 45". The design of your tray would need to consider that especially if the toy you plan to put under the arms is taller than that 45". Option 1 for a tray would include pins that match the holes in the arms normally used by the lift pads. Easy method for this would be to buy extra short lift pad extensions and weld them to the bottom supports of the tray. That way the tray wouldn't roll. If the 45" height turns out to be an issue, Option 2 for your tray would include a section of channel that would fit around the column bracket where the factory arms attach. Your tray would attach to that channel using the supplied pins normally used for the arms, attached at whatever height you'd need to clear the bottom toy. Of course you'd have to get the top toy up to whatever the lowered height of the tray ends up, but that's likely to be low enough that the ramps you use now to get them into your truck or trailer would be OK.

Those are my initial thoughts anyway.

Thanks guys. I think the deck would have to be secured to the lift arms somehow, even with Herc straps.

Maybe the short lift height would be of concern.

I think a 4 post would work better but I don't want or need something 9 feet wide. With the MaxJax I was thinking I could build a 6' X 9" deck that would hold 2 snowmobiles.

Thanks again for your input.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Nigel, why not paint first, then drill? That's what I did.

Best of luck,

Andres

From what I have been told it might crack or screw the epoxy up no? I would think it would be better to not drill into the epoxy after it's fully cured because now you are creating a weak point with all the holes and possibly chips around the hole...etc?

How exactly did you drill and not mess up the epoxy with the masonry bit?

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

[NewShockerGuy]

ok I have more questions...

As far as the achors, can one use epoxy on the stock anchors that come in the kit? And use something like this: Would there be any harm at all using this by putting some in the hole and then driving teh stock anchor in? Wouldn't the epoxy fill the "voids" around the anchor?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_354679-286-...l=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=epoxy&facetInfo=


I thought I read somewhere on there the distance from the wall that you should be out... IE: The edge of my garage has a crack going all the way around it that separates it from the wall bricks... From what I have been told the floor is poured to the wall, and then the concrete drys and shrinks away from the wall.. so it's not a crack persay I guess... just wondering how many inches out I should be from this ? I'd like to get it as close the wall as possible on the one side since I don't want to take up space preventing my wife from pulling her car in for the other bay in the garage... But at the ssame time I don't want to be unsafe and have the post so close to that crack/shrinkage that it breaks the concrete...

-Nigel

 

[abstamaria]

From what I have been told it might crack or screw the epoxy up no? I would think it would be better to not drill into the epoxy after it's fully cured because now you are creating a weak point with all the holes and possibly chips around the hole...etc? How exactly did you drill and not mess up the epoxy with the masonry bit? Thanks,
-Nigel

I don't think so, Nigel. Some guys here even drilled through tile. I chickened out doing the job myself and hired a contractor. I posted some pictures of how they drilled the hole in my thread, which might be useful to you. Cleaning out the hole is a critical part for ensuring the Wejits hold. This link should lead to the page on the installation. The photos are in post #547.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1788407#post1788407

Notise that the holes through the epoxy are very clean with no chipping.

I don't think you should use epoxy with the mechanical wedges.

Good luck!

Andy

 

[skamp]

ok I have more questions...

As far as the achors, can one use epoxy on the stock anchors that come in the kit? And use something like this: Would there be any harm at all using this by putting some in the hole and then driving teh stock anchor in? Wouldn't the epoxy fill the "voids" around the anchor?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_354679-286-...l=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=epoxy&facetInfo=


I thought I read somewhere on there the distance from the wall that you should be out... IE: The edge of my garage has a crack going all the way around it that separates it from the wall bricks... From what I have been told the floor is poured to the wall, and then the concrete drys and shrinks away from the wall.. so it's not a crack persay I guess... just wondering how many inches out I should be from this ? I'd like to get it as close the wall as possible on the one side since I don't want to take up space preventing my wife from pulling her car in for the other bay in the garage... But at the ssame time I don't want to be unsafe and have the post so close to that crack/shrinkage that it breaks the concrete...

-Nigel

You can use epoxy with the wedge anchors and quite a few have including me. If your slab is 5-6" or more I think it would be best to use the epoxy anchors straight away. I would have went that route but my floor was right at 3.75-4.35".

If you use epoxy with the wedge anchors I would recommend you fill the hole 2/3 of the way with epoxy (I used redhead G5) and set the wedge anchor like the instructions say. This will give you both the wedge holding as well as holding from the epoxy in the bell area of the wedge. I know some have used epoxy with the wedge anchor first and then set the wedge after the epoxy hardens. I don't agree with that method as the wedge collar has no way to expand after the exoxy cures so your wedge anchor at that point really becomes an epoxy anchor that is was not designed for. Jusy my 2 cents.

I think most lift install manuals states 12" away from all cracks.


Steve

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Thank you for the replies and links! One last question. How does one determine the depth at which the concrete slab is ? IE: I don't want to just start drilling holes so as I drill the first hole how would I know to keep going in order to use the epoxy plus wedge anchor?
Sorry if these are basic questions, I've just never used or drilled through concrete... I've done wood and drywall and can judge that type of stuff but concrete i guess isn't as easy to fix in my mind by just drilling some test holes in places..right?

Thanks again,
-Nigel

 

[skamp]

Thank you for the replies and links! One last question. How does one determine the depth at which the concrete slab is ? IE: I don't want to just start drilling holes so as I drill the first hole how would I know to keep going in order to use the epoxy plus wedge anchor?
Sorry if these are basic questions, I've just never used or drilled through concrete... I've done wood and drywall and can judge that type of stuff but concrete i guess isn't as easy to fix in my mind by just drilling some test holes in places..right?

Thanks again,
-Nigel

Without using GPR you cannot determine the depth without a test hole. I drilled a few test holes away from where the lift was going to get a general idea. You can never tell for sure until you drill the holes where the lift is going. It may be best to drill your 1st hole for each column and use that as your reference. That would then guide the type of anchor to use. If you have ~6" or more use the epoxy anchor. If you have 4" use the wedge.

Steve

 

[abstamaria]

Epoxy with wedge anchors

You can use epoxy with the wedge anchors and quite a few have including me. ... Steve

Thanks, Steve. Good to know.

Andy

 

[skamp]

Re: Epoxy with wedge anchors

Thanks, Steve. Good to know.

Andy

Well take what I say with a grain of salt. They are not meant to be used with epoxy so I am doing this outside of the install instructions. I don't see it being a big issue provided you can get the wedge anchor to seat. If it does not seat the cured epoxy may provide the extra strength to hold to 90 ft/lbs. I actually had this happen on one of my anchors. It did not seat good after 3 turns of the nut. I let it sit for 24 hours and then tried to seat again. It would not budge and sucked the washer (a thicker one than it came with) into the hole. I also tourqued the bolt to 95 ft/lbs over the column and the anchor did not move or pull up at all. I am comfortable with that anchor and am glad I used the epoxy as that anchor would have been no good without it. Again I did this outside of the install instructions provided with the wedge anchor.

Steve

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Without using GPR you cannot determine the depth without a test hole. I drilled a few test holes away from where the lift was going to get a general idea. You can never tell for sure until you drill the holes where the lift is going. It may be best to drill your 1st hole for each column and use that as your reference. That would then guide the type of anchor to use. If you have ~6" or more use the epoxy anchor. If you have 4" use the wedge.

Steve

Steve,

So by doing the first hole is it recommended I go to the length that is called in the instructions or to keep drilling through? I guess that is what I am worried about what if I drill completely through? This almost doesn't seem worth it or I am making it bigger than what it actually is...lol

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

[skamp]

Steve,

So by doing the first hole is it recommended I go to the length that is called in the instructions or to keep drilling through? I guess that is what I am worried about what if I drill completely through? This almost doesn't seem worth it or I am making it bigger than what it actually is...lol

Thanks,
-Nigel

For the test hole keep going until you get to 6.25". I say this because that is depth called out for the epoxy anchor. No need to go any deeper. If you can hit 6.25" I would absolutely use the powersert epoxy anchor. If you have say 4.5" of concrete, the benefit of going all the way through is if the wedge anchor fails to seat you can hammer it down into the soil and try another one. If you are using the epoxy anchor or the wedge anchor with epoxy you will never be able to hammer it down into the soil after that epoxy sets. I hope this helps.

Steve

 

[mes5278]

Has anyone discussed using cast inserts if you are pouring a new pad?

Here is a link to what I am am refering to.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=51435&ucst=t


Seems like these would hold better than any drill in insert.

Mark

 

[skamp]

Has anyone discussed using cast inserts if you are pouring a new pad?

Here is a link to what I am am refering to.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=51435&ucst=t


Seems like these would hold better than any drill in insert.

Mark

I think the issue with casting is any variations with in hole pattern on the column, etc. If you use the epoxy anchor it is like 26K PSI so many times the strength needed. The wedge anchor is also like 15K PSI. The main issue with the wedge anchor is you need to be pretty perfect in drilling the hole to prevent it being oversize and failing to bite. The epoxy anchor gives you a little leeway.

Steve