Maxjax Installs: Post Here

[mes5278]

When theypoured the slab for the skating rink here in town, the guys from Butler buildings showed up with several 2x2 plywood sheets with J bolts fastened to them in the same pattern as the base plates for the upright beams that would show up later. They used this to place the bolts in the concrete when it was poured. I dont know what their tolerances were but every Post went right on to the bolts without any issue.

Could you not make a hole patter on a piece of plywood, bolt the anchors to it and place them in the wet concrete during the pour?

 

[skamp]

When theypoured the slab for the skating rink here in town, the guys from Butler buildings showed up with several 2x2 plywood sheets with J bolts fastened to them in the same pattern as the base plates for the upright beams that would show up later. They used this to place the bolts in the concrete when it was poured. I dont know what their tolerances were but every Post went right on to the bolts without any issue.

Could you not make a hole patter on a piece of plywood, bolt the anchors to it and place them in the wet concrete during the pour?

I am sure something could be rigged up but these are sleeve anchors so nothing is above the concrete grade. For a fixed lift that would work well but for a movable lift like this with a sleeve anchor I think drilling after the concrete is complete is best.

Steve

 

[Jvvmusme]

When theypoured the slab for the skating rink here in town, the guys from Butler buildings showed up with several 2x2 plywood sheets with J bolts fastened to them in the same pattern as the base plates for the upright beams that would show up later. They used this to place the bolts in the concrete when it was poured. I dont know what their tolerances were but every Post went right on to the bolts without any issue.

Could you not make a hole patter on a piece of plywood, bolt the anchors to it and place them in the wet concrete during the pour?

That is what I did. And I even had te anchors soldered between them and then I placed them in fresh cement. With the soldering they do not move, roate, etccc they are there for life

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Another question since I didn't see it answered:

Should there be a minimum spacing from the edge of the wall?
-jim

Anyone have information on this? I have been trying to see what the answer is. Nothing on maxjax site about it.

I don't want to put it right up against the wall due to the cut from the wall to the floor and have the floor crack there from the anchors being put in...

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

[skamp]

That is what I did. And I even had te anchors soldered between them and then I placed them in fresh cement. With the soldering they do not move, roate, etccc they are there for life

Did you use the wedge anchor for this? If so did you spread the collar out before?

Steve

 

[mf44]

Another question since I didn't see it answered:




Anyone have information on this? I have been trying to see what the answer is. Nothing on maxjax site about it.

I don't want to put it right up against the wall due to the cut from the wall to the floor and have the floor crack there from the anchors being put in...

Thanks,
-Nigel

Nigel,

I called Danmar about this a few months ago and I *THINK* the engineer I spoke with said the anchors cannot be closer than 5 anchor widths away from a crack, or edge of the concrete. Give them a ring to be sure, but I know they can answer it for you.

 

[UPSHIFT]

Nigel,

I called Danmar about this a few months ago and I *THINK* the engineer I spoke with said the anchors cannot be closer than 5 anchor widths away from a crack, or edge of the concrete. Give them a ring to be sure, but I know they can answer it for you.

6" from any edge of concrete or major cracks.

Gabe
Dannmar

 

[abstamaria]

How to install the electrical plug on a 220V model?

i ordered my Maxjax 2-post lift with a 220V motor. it arrived without an electrical plug. The wires inside the power cable are red, white, and black. Which is neutral, live, and ground?

Any advice will be appreciated. Many thanks.

Andy

 

[motorheadsdiygarage]

Red=110v
White=neutral
Black=110v

Ground=green

 

[abstamaria]

Thanks, motorheadsdiygarage. But I think it's meant to be plugged into a 220V grounded wall outlet. That would mean that one wire is ground.

Andy

 

[motorheadsdiygarage]

Only three prongs on the 220 plugs over there?

Match the colours,
Red=110v
White=neutral
Black=110v

The White/neutral acts as ground

 

[abstamaria]

Yes, only 3 prongs. Many thanks, motorheadsdiygarage. I think I switched the black and the white (I wired black to the middle (ground) prong). I've been using it that way. I'll recheck.

Andy

 

[motorheadsdiygarage]

If that's the case it's been running on 110v.

The black is the hot (110v) circuit breaker side of the circuit.
The white is neutral (0v)
The red is the hot (110v) circuit breaker side of the circuit.

See the photo attached. You can use a 220v outlet instead of the one pictured which is for the stove or dryer here in Canada.

See the NEMA chart

You need a 30amp select what your power source is probably a 4 wire but you can wire the plug side without the ground.

 

[abstamaria]

Many thanks, Motorheadsdiygarage! I didn't notice any problems, but just decided to recheck.

Best,

Andy

 

[abstamaria]

I opened the junction box of the motor, which I should have done in the first place, before posting and bothering you all. The wiring is pretty straightforward and easy to identify. My connections appear OK, colors notwithstanding. What I will do is replace the lead with a cable with standard green/white/black wires (difficult to find here), so I don't panic again in the future.

Once again, I appreciate the quick advice. Thank you, all.

Best,

Andy

 

[aqr81]

Okay, this is confirm what Skamp said in #672. I just called Wej-it and spoke to the guy for Technical support for the Wej-it products. My question to him was which would be better to use with 4" of concrete - the PD-58 or the PS2-58 epoxy anchor (even though only 2 of the 4 sections would be in the concrete), or could I use epoxy with the PD-58?

His reply was that there was no need to purchase the different anchor. He said you can absolutely use epoxy product with the PD-58 anchor to get the benefit of the epoxy bond in addition to the wedging action as designed. Further, he confirmed the wedge connection needed to be set and then let the epoxy cure. Do not attempt to set the anchor after the epoxy dries as it would do nothing once epoxy is cured. Also, he said to let it sit 2 full days before doing anything further with the anchors.

This sure answered with certainty my questions. I hope it proves helpful to others as well.

Larry

 

[roche]

Would it be possible to any of you to measure the base plate of the lift. I mean the square plate that is bolted on the floor.

I'm installing rebar and in-floor heating tomorrow before the pour and I would like to make sure that nothing is in the way. I can't find this info on Danmar's website.

Thanks a million.

 

[skamp]

Would it be possible to any of you to measure the base plate of the lift. I mean the square plate that is bolted on the floor.

I'm installing rebar and in-floor heating tomorrow before the pour and I would like to make sure that nothing is in the way. I can't find this info on Danmar's website.

Thanks a million.

See this post

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2125134&highlight=Visio#post2125134

I put a Visio template of the holes for drilling.

If you don't have Visio here is a PDF

http://www.lanability.com/images/maxjaxtemplate.pdf

Steve

 

[roche]

See this post

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2125134&highlight=Visio#post2125134

I put a Visio template of the holes for drilling.

If you don't have Visio here is a PDF

http://www.lanability.com/images/maxjaxtemplate.pdf

Steve

More than I asked for. Thank you very much!!

 

[G-force]

Now that this thread is almost four years old, I thought I would share a few pictures of some of the fun I've had with my Maxjax so far.

 

[wachuko]

G-Force, great idea!! Here are a few from my garage:

In the single bay:

The rest are in the double bay.

 

[rickyboy]

G-Force, great idea!! Here are a few from my garage:

Going over this 2 yr. long thread is time consuming and I resorted to looking at the pictures towards the half way point. The set ups look great and I can't wait to get to my new digs and set one of these MaxJax's up for my use. I was wondering and this may have been mentioned throughout the thread somewhere, but for those of you who re and re the hoists for whatever reason, do you cap the concrete lags in the concrete while the lift is out of position? You know, ... so **** doesn't go in the them? or do you put the bolts back in the lags? I'd be concerned about the trip factor doing that though. Anyway, just wondering.

 

[les_garten]

G-Force, great idea!! Here are a few from my garage:

Real shame there...

You getcha a MaxJax and you hardy use it! Why don't you give that thing to somebody who will make some good use to it...



I see you have some experience jacking 911's up on it. How far apart are your towers? Any problems swinging the arms past the wheels to get the arms under?

 

[Jvvmusme]

I had my share of fun too
Austin Healey 100m

 

[Jvvmusme]

More fun
Aston Martin DB6

 

[Jvvmusme]

The Aston

 

[Jvvmusme]

Mg tc

 

[Jvvmusme]

Porsche without steroids

 

[Jvvmusme]

Alfa Romeo Guillia Spider

 

[Jvvmusme]

**** happens !

 

[Jvvmusme]

Porsche 911E
VW with steroids (Lance Armstrong edition)

 

[Jvvmusme]

Mg td

 

[wachuko]

...I was wondering and this may have been mentioned throughout the thread somewhere, but for those of you who re and re the hoists for whatever reason, do you cap the concrete lags in the concrete while the lift is out of position? You know, ... so **** doesn't go in the them? or do you put the bolts back in the lags? I'd be concerned about the trip factor doing that though. Anyway, just wondering.

Very good point. I am always thinking about getting some plastic plugs to cover the threads when not in use...but always forget... what I did was to get some short bolts that I leave in there to avoid **** going in... and when I forget to put the bolts I just use the vac to **** any dirt before using the lift again.

 

[JTSmithson]

www.caplugs.com every kind of plastic plug you could want...

 

[Jvvmusme]

Very good point. I am always thinking about getting some plastic plugs to cover the threads when not in use...but always forget... what I did was to get some short bolts that I leave in there to avoid **** going in... and when I forget to put the bolts I just use the vac to **** any dirt before using the lift again.

Due to the fact that I have 2 installations for the MaxJax and I do not want any **** going inside the threads I bought some short bolts, cut the bolt head off and with a power tool did a cut in order to use a screwdriver to bolt and unbolt the screw, but they remain at floor level so they do not present a menace of any kind.Tripping.

 

[abstamaria]

Those are wonderful cars, wachuko, jvvmusme.

 

[wachuko]

Porsche without steroids

hahahahahahahahaha que comico! hahaha!

 

[IONH]

Due to the fact that I have 2 installations for the MaxJax and I do not want any **** going inside the threads I bought some short bolts, cut the bolt head off and with a power tool did a cut in order to use a screwdriver to bolt and unbolt the screw, but they remain at floor level so they do not present a menace of any kind.Tripping.

Good idea. One of those allen screws without a head would work too, but maybe expensive for that size but at least you could use an impact to pull them out quickly.

 

[rickyboy]

I like the idea of the plastic caps.

 

[LARSOFVT]

........or nylon set screws

http://www.mcmaster.com/#set-screws/=jz921a