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Mezzanine time

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IPACA9

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I sure hope you have an impact driver ! If not, now is the time to buy one !!

Simpson gives you a 1/4" hex adapter but it is not very good. Buy a decent one.

Make sure your joist are tight to the hangers and that the top of the joist is flush to the top of the beam. Might need a helper to hold things if you have shoulder issues.
Oh yeah. Got a couple Milwaukee and craftsman ones. Also having my rolling scaffolding has been quite handy.

I've been using the Fastenmaster ThruLocks to join the beams to the posts. These things were awesome so it sold me on going with the other fasteners.
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IPACA9

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Well it's been a long week. I really only get to work on this thing at night when everyone goes to bed or if I get some time on the weekend between all the family stuff.

I got all the posts set in place and this time I decided to go ahead and anchor the post bases with 5" x 5/8" anchors. Tell ya what. Trying to do that with my Milwaukee or Dewalt was quite a chore and killed two $13 bits with six holes. Enough of that. I hit my buddy up and borrowed his Bosch Rotary Hammer. That thing makes a huge difference and saves the bit. I had a problem with a couple of the anchors not grabbing and spinning so I wound up slotting the top of the bolt to hold with my flathead on a ratchet and using a wrench to tighten them down. I then had to grind off the top of the bolt that was sticking up. Real pain in the ***. I now know to be very careful when using that hammer drill and make sure it does wobble or chew up the hole. The first couple anchors were a learning experience bit I think I'm getting the hang of it.
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After getting all post bases down and screwing my notched posts into them I was moving on the outer beams. The beams are secured to the posts using Fastenmaster's ThruLoks and then every 12 inches I staggered their HeadLoks to join the double beams together. I knocked those out and figured it was enough for the night.
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The next day I got home about the same time my wife did and we had some time to kill before the kids got home from school. She helped me get the first LVL into place. Using the uprights I hoisted them up using my heavy tie straps. I would pull one end up a few feet and tie it off then do the other side. Eventually we got the first one there and set into the notch. I ran a couple screws in it to hold it. The kids came home and it was done for the rest of the day till they went to bed.
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That evening I joked about doing the 2nd LVL myself. My wife thought I was joking but after they went to bed I just couldn't sit there and do nothing. I had to try. So up it went. Having two people made it easier to keep the beam upright but I just had to make sure I had tension pulling on the top of the other side. I got it as far as I could before my arms were killing me so I tied it off and figured "tomorrow you're mine!". My wife was a little pissed at me in the morning when I showed her what I had accomplished. 1b447798c09d7ff9792e855269f56a2b.jpg
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The next day I was at it. I had to bring the 2nd beam up behind the first, over the top and set it into place on the front. Once it was there I clamped it and sank my ThruLoks into them and the TrussLoks to join them all together.
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Next I was on to the joists. I went 16" on center and decided to go with 3/4" T&G plywood for the decking. I was really thinking about going with some OSB for it but figured I'd spend the extra money.
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I just spread the plywood across it for now so that I can put some things up there from the other side of the building. I got to clear that area for the second deck. This time it will have stairs.
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IPACA9

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It is actually fun for me but very tiring. I spend all day crouched under a dash installing remote starters or leaning into a trunk putting amplifiers in so at the end of the day I have to drive on.

This thing is a rock. Hardly any shimmy to it at all. It will tighten up more when I put the flooring on. I'm trying to decide if I should glue and screw it or just screw it down. Also I'm undecided to fasten it to the uprights right behind me in the picture and or even in the corners. Maybe with some threaded hooks or something without actually screwing into them but we will see after the other side is done and the bridge hung between may not even need it.

Speaking of hanging the bridge. These Simpson hangers are pretty impressive. Very thick and heavy. These will hang the 11" LVL across the middle.1ee51b221d5817e771ccb71a679813f9.jpg
 
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IPACA9

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I'm also trying to decide if I want a 5 foot deck across the back or six foot. The deeper deck will give a little more height for under those trusses. Already across the back they are about 5 feet from the future flooring. I already knew I would have to duck under them when crossing over to the other side. I'll have to light them with foam so I don't "Bing" a head on them. A small inconvenience but it was either make the flooring lower and cut my windows off or go high and deal with ducking the framework. I also wanted the height above me head when under the mezzanine. Another thing to come into play is how far out am I before it interferes with the nose of a vehicle when it goes on a future lift. I'll make that decision when the time comes to hang the beams.
 

MagKarl

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I think I'd build the two big areas and save the connecting portion for last. You might find the connector catwalk is a lot of effort and material for what you get out of it in the end. Might not be necessary if you dedicate one to storage of stuff you don't frequently access.
 
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I think I'd build the two big areas and save the connecting portion for last. You might find the connector catwalk is a lot of effort and material for what you get out of it in the end. Might not be necessary if you dedicate one to storage of stuff you don't frequently access.
I'll be building the other side then doing the catwalk across. The right side in front of the stairs will be a couch or a few chairs and TV for now. Something my kids or a customer can chill while I work on a vehicle. The other side will be multiple work stations for RC cars/planes, models or whatever other hobbies we have. The catwalk will have shelving built between the upright framing for storage. I'm going to make some curtains or something that will slide in front of them.
 
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Any updates?
Sorry I left this thread hanging. I've posted pictures here and there in other threads and forgot about this one. It's been a slow process but it's getting there. Time this summer has been taken up with scout camps, working on mom's property, a couple trips and just plain laziness due to heat.

Since I had the LVLs stacked on the left when delivered I needed to get the 14" deep ones over to the other side of the garage. My wife was still recovering from shoulder surgery so I had to think of a way of getting the beams out of the building and back over to the other side myself. I strapped my dolly to the end to put some wheels on the end of it. Super heavy but with some muscle I got them where they needed to be. e3ab13a9849e02259e86ea6a486c5891.jpg
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Then I was back to building the right side where my stairs will be
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Figured I'd share what hardware I've been using.

For joining my beams to my notched posts I've chosen Fastenmaster ThruLoks.
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For attaching my LVL beams together I've chosen Fastenmaster's TrussLoks which have now been replaced with a different flatter head version similar to the HeadLock screws.
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For joining my dimensional beams together I chose Fastenmaster's HeadLok screws.
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Joist hangers are attached using Simpson StrongTie screws.
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Next I moved on to the hangers for the back section.
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I then mounted my posts and back beams
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Moved on the the joist hangers
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Cross bracing between my joists
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Next I moved onto my stairs and this is where I'm at. The last month has had a ton of stuff happening amd I've had not time to work out there plus the heat and humidity has just been ridiculous.

My first stringers were cut out of the 2x12 kiln-dried hem-fir I picked up last November. I shouldn't have even cut into them. After I was done I decided they were too cracked up to want to use. It was a learning process though. I have never cut stringers before. Kinda a pain in the *** really.
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After deciding I didn't want to use these stringers I went and bought some 11-7/8" LVLs to make them out of. Should have thought of that in the first place. c373bb209f2570e8950692486a6792b5.jpg
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I still have two more stringers to cut. Just so much going on right now. I need to buy a couple fans and just get my *** on it!
 

bczygan

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Incredible job!

Beautiful mezzanine! Stout!

I should have thought about LVL's for stringers and mentioned them to you. They are the best solution. A Fine Homebuilding type choice.

Bill
 

95riosnake

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Great project! Very stout design in its second iteration. The mezzanine will add a lot of character to the space in addition to the usefulness.
 
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IPACA9

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I'm still undecided on what I'm going to do with the railings . I find myself looking at people's decks and taking it all in. I want it to look cool but don't want to spend an arm and leg on it. Also there's going to be a lot of cool stuff displayed on them as well.
 
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I also talked to worldwide about adding a 20x30 addition to the building. This side will be about 3 feet taller for some headroom and it will have a full 2nd floor in it. If everything goes well it will happen in November.e079b0147e75edc0dbe37d7cffa5acaf.png
 

bczygan

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I'm still undecided on what I'm going to do with the railings . I find myself looking at people's decks and taking it all in. I want it to look cool but don't want to spend an arm and leg on it. Also there's going to be a lot of cool stuff displayed on them as well.

Your railing, to me, should have very little visual complexity, while providing access and safety.

And it should be demountable at some points, so you can remove sections of it to load things up and down.

I would install some metal pockets on the outside face of the LVL's and then install metal stanchions in the pockets. No closer together than 8' on center. Start at one end with a single, then every 8' have a double pocket or two single ones side by side. Metal top and bottom rails and clear poly-carbonate panels for the face.

This would give you a good view up there and access, while providing safety.

Just noticed you want to display things ON them. So the fixed ones, or all of them, could have solid panels, which could be plywood with a painted surface. Then the decision is do you want a continuous smooth wall or panels with posts marking where each panel begins and ends. The way it looks will be in the details. Deciding whether things will be displayed (The wall behind the mezzanine or the face of the railing, will help you decide whether it should be clear of opaque.

Bill
 
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Looks great! Thanks for the update, that addition looks exciting too
Plans are to have the upstairs for the pool table, bar and lounge area for everyone. Downstairs will be my woodshop area

My custom 8' Peter Vitali table has been crated up since I moved from our old house three years ago. Can't wait to get it setup again.
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IPACA9

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Well after some delays with our huge Estate auction and other things I'm getting back at it. I've started laying down the plywood for the back deck and soon I'll move to the right side. Today I rode the bike around and priced the lumber needed to do the railings. I priced Cedar, Home Depot's "cedar toned" pressure treated and pine. I think I'll still pull the trigger on going with cedar just to do it. It's indoor so I don't need anything treated but will cost a little more. In the meantime I sat down and drew up some new railing to know exactly what I need. Love working with Sketchup to get the measurements and all. 1decec3c9bf34f5f3034a8bf2333a2b8.jpg
 

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It was getting toasty up there so I had to quick mount a fan using some tonneau cover clamps. :)
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IPACA9

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I am so happy that someone with little experience did their research and mounted the beams ON TOP OF the post.
I figured that out before even researching. It just makes sense.

A funny thing that I noticed today is when researching on ways to do railing posts they have changed it to where it's recommended or even code to mount the full 4x4 post outside the beam for strength instead of notching it. Lowes still sells notched posts.

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Finally had some time and knocked out my other two LVL stringers. Man these get old fast. It'll be nice to walk up to the mezzanine soon vs climbing a ladder
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theoldwizard1

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I am so happy that someone with little experience did their research and mounted the beams ON TOP OF the post.

I am so happy that someone with little experience did their research and mounted the beams ON TOP OF the post.
I figured that out before even researching. It just makes sense.
Maybe to you, but not to dozens of other DIYer. Lag to the side, through bolts or even nails have been used !

I am becoming less of a fan of ledger boards for connecting a deck to a house because it has been done wrong so many times,
 
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Got the stringers mounted up. Hopefully tread and risers tomorrow

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Cut my 13 treads and risers today. Tomorrow I will round over the nose of the treads and get them all fastened down but in the morning I have a new 12x20 lofted barn shed being delivered that I got a great deal on. It will get all my mowers and yard **** out of my shop finally and free up a ton of room.

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bryceaugustine

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are you willing to share some details about your new shed? 12x20 is what i want for my backyard. wall height? height to peak? cost? delivery/installation fee? i assume is came from classic building sales. i have been making plans to build mine on a concrete pad, but knowing i have some options would be nice. getting a pre-built 12x20 from home depot was a bit more then i was willing to spend. i think i can build it significantly cheaper, but the time to do so is the issue.
 

theoldwizard1

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are you willing to share some details about your new shed? 12x20 is what i want for my backyard. wall height? height to peak? cost? delivery/installation fee?
Contact the place that builds them. They can add a foot or 2 here or there for not much additional cost.

In general their floors ****. Either pour a slab or search GJ and find what other have done (remove sod, gravel, PT framing, etc.)
 

Jo Diesel

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I was wondering why you put your stairs there until I seen your window. Awesome mezzanine.

Are you still going to put an addition off the back ?
 
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I beat myself up over stair placement and how I wanted them. I want to build a closet under them to put my compressor and other things. The previous owner stubbed it out for water and waste but I'll have to figure how to get it to the septic tank.

I'm going to add to the left side but it's on hold for now.
 
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are you willing to share some details about your new shed? 12x20 is what i want for my backyard. wall height? height to peak? cost? delivery/installation fee? i assume is came from classic building sales. i have been making plans to build mine on a concrete pad, but knowing i have some options would be nice. getting a pre-built 12x20 from home depot was a bit more then i was willing to spend. i think i can build it significantly cheaper, but the time to do so is the issue.
I'll get some measurements for you tomorrow. Today was fast paced. We got the building delivered and then had to run and empty moms storage building so we wouldn't get hit for another month. We sold her smaller 10x12 garden building and bought this.

I priced the buildings from several different places and also priced to build one myself. I'm just too busy for that. It's getting cooler and my remote starter season is starting. Pretty soon I'm going to be in the streets working 14+ hours a day as usual. This building happened to be a repo and I got it for a great price.

Watching delivery was really neat and the guy was pretty cool. The wireless Mule machine is pretty amazing. Things to do are building up the ground around it, installing a front door and windows, build a covered porch and put a large garden in front of it for mom.

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bczygan

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I like the use of LVL's for stair stringers and the use of 3 of them. Should be plenty strong. But if you want them even stronger, simply cut the span in half by supporting them with a short wall or posts at the mid-span.

Even more useful when using dimensional lumber stringers.

Bill
 
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IPACA9

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I like the use of LVL's for stair stringers and the use of 3 of them. Should be plenty strong. But if you want them even stronger, simply cut the span in half by supporting them with a short wall or posts at the mid-span.

Even more useful when using dimensional lumber stringers.

Bill
I'll be building a wall under it anyways for the closet/compressor room :)
 
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