Crusarius
Well-known member
So your getting that nice of a finish on bare steel with foam brush? or chip brush? I think I need to switch paints. how long does that take to harden before you put final coat on?
MP&C Shop Projects
- Thread starter MP&C
- Start date
Bristle brush. It does leave some minor brush strokes, but at least it is an automotive primer that makes a good substrate for any automotive finish, no matter the application method. In this case, nobody will see it unless they are removing the speaker. In other cases where something will be topcoated, I'll use this method to seal up a repair and scuff later and reprime when I'm doing a larger section. SPI epoxy can be reapplied and/or topcoated within 7 day window without having to scuff (unless you've parked it out in the sunlight, that speeds up the process) Most all the answers can be found here:
http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php
http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php
shortykorte
Well-known member
Thanks for the idea of using a brush with the SPI. Wouldn’t have thought of that method for things that don’t need finishing and hard to reach.
I’m slowly learning to think out the box .
Shorty Korte
Always remember quality in QST
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
I’m slowly learning to think out the box .
Shorty Korte
Always remember quality in QST
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
When I coated the inside of the rocker panels I had a 2” wide paint roller that I added about 4’ to the handle, rolled paint on the inside bottom, rotated the rotisserie, repeat. Definitely outside the box but it worked well. With anything I think the key is using quality products and whatever means to get the job done
xtremek
Well-known member
The Biederman looks great and the speaker rings as well.
Thanks!
Passenger door modifications, inner structure added...
…..speaker mounting ring welded in place and brush painted using SPI epoxy primer..
In our attempt to finalize all the needed fabrications before getting deep into paint mode, we had some clearance issues to deal with on the Vintage Air bracket for the AC compressor. The initial mockup showed that the upper mounting tab was too close to the tall valve covers we have on the 383 stroker. A half inch spacer under the intake mounting tab gives us about 1/4" clearance, and shows how much we need to modify the water pump mounting tab.
I didn't have much in the selection of 1/4" flat stock, so the shoulder of a 5/16 bolt was used, first the root pass and then a filler pass.
Another part checked off the list....
Passenger door modifications, inner structure added...
…..speaker mounting ring welded in place and brush painted using SPI epoxy primer..
In our attempt to finalize all the needed fabrications before getting deep into paint mode, we had some clearance issues to deal with on the Vintage Air bracket for the AC compressor. The initial mockup showed that the upper mounting tab was too close to the tall valve covers we have on the 383 stroker. A half inch spacer under the intake mounting tab gives us about 1/4" clearance, and shows how much we need to modify the water pump mounting tab.
I didn't have much in the selection of 1/4" flat stock, so the shoulder of a 5/16 bolt was used, first the root pass and then a filler pass.
Another part checked off the list....
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Very nicely done on the accessory brackets Robert. Setting those up and making sure everything is properly aligned can be a pain.
Thanks Mike!
Time to play catch-up, had a short hiatus in Upstate NY on the St Lawrence river.
Daytime and sunset:
I picked up some louver dies that are set up for the press brake but should be the start of a louver press eventually... got both 2" and 3" dies.
I also have a couple good friends that understand my tool addiction that both sent me a link to an ad for body tools, especially for the Vise Grips. Here's what I picked up from a retired bodyman, now to keep these quality tools going. VG collection is now over 130.. never enough.
...and with the engine brackets back from powder coating, and our new 45* water neck arrived, we were able to get the belts and upper hose all mocked up. The hose we used was a Dayco 72384, made as a lower hose for a V6 Ford Explorer, but it fits this application like a glove...
Video version:
.
Time to play catch-up, had a short hiatus in Upstate NY on the St Lawrence river.
Daytime and sunset:
I picked up some louver dies that are set up for the press brake but should be the start of a louver press eventually... got both 2" and 3" dies.
I also have a couple good friends that understand my tool addiction that both sent me a link to an ad for body tools, especially for the Vise Grips. Here's what I picked up from a retired bodyman, now to keep these quality tools going. VG collection is now over 130.. never enough.
...and with the engine brackets back from powder coating, and our new 45* water neck arrived, we were able to get the belts and upper hose all mocked up. The hose we used was a Dayco 72384, made as a lower hose for a V6 Ford Explorer, but it fits this application like a glove...
Video version:
.
larry4406
Well-known member
Nice trip, tool haul, and project!
xtremek
Well-known member
That's an understatement on the hose. And nice haul on the tools.
Take note of the solid cinder block counterweights, without them there is a tipping issue when loading one door at a time..
Had to add cinder blocks to back of my engine hoist when I used a longer 2 inch square tube on it to remove and reinstall the electric motor on top of my milling machine. Had to make the square tube 3 feet longer than the original to get the height I needed. Like you say, everything is a tool
Stealing this idea!
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Spent some time organizing, needed some racks for all the Lennox dies..
One set down, two more to go....
If it helps, here is the offishul drawing we used...
You stud! That is perfect. Should work perfect gor r8 collets.
So while I'm blocking primer (think I shoulda swapped jobs with her) E worked on the next two tooling racks. Here using the Diacro press brake to add some dimples....
Note here she is also skilled in applying the electric tape bandage....
….for some reason I don't think three sets is gonna be enough....
.
Note here she is also skilled in applying the electric tape bandage....
….for some reason I don't think three sets is gonna be enough....
.
Ohmthis
Well-known member
Take note of the solid cinder block counterweights, without them there is a tipping issue when loading one door at a time..
Remember, everything is a tool!
shortykorte
Well-known member
On a stretch, is E the she/owner you’re referring to? If so, E will have a serious ride.
Shorty Korte
Always remember quality in QST
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
Shorty Korte
Always remember quality in QST
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Robert, don't forget to teach her to drive stick. When she's the responsible one at the end of the party it's good to know how to drive the drunk's car (for some reason drunk teen boys always drive a stick).
Monza Harry
Well-known member
TP or paper towel? We have some younger guys at work that don't understand why I rarely use proper bandages, they just don't have enough absorbency (and they are ok to get wet)!Note here she is also skilled in applying the electric tape bandage....
Harry P.S. WAY to go on having raised a modern child/youth, (a girl none the less) with an interest in well anything! And she is working at it! Forty thumbs up! I am hopeful that my Grandson may, but he is only 6 and I don't get enough time with him.
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TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
Wish I could have convinced my daughters to spend some time in shop. On their own vehicles oil changes n maintenance the only time they did much although youngest daughter would help if I really begged with a bunch of pretty pleases. (on rare occasion)
Oldest daughter we did the bronco together tho (for her) It was nice she footed the bill!
Thanks for checking on me, I've been traveling for the day job the past couple weeks..
In the shop, I've been blocking out the wagon to get it ready for one more epoxy priming session, and those "progress pictures" amount to a pile of residue on the floor so I didn't even bother.. Mike has been in the middle of moving to a new house, so he's been out of pocket as well. There has been some noticeable progress on the arrow sign, I'll resize some of those pictures and get them posted later today.
Hope everyone is enjoying time with family during labor day.
In the shop, I've been blocking out the wagon to get it ready for one more epoxy priming session, and those "progress pictures" amount to a pile of residue on the floor so I didn't even bother.. Mike has been in the middle of moving to a new house, so he's been out of pocket as well. There has been some noticeable progress on the arrow sign, I'll resize some of those pictures and get them posted later today.
Hope everyone is enjoying time with family during labor day.
Progress on our arrow sign, we got one side of the filler panel of the tail plug welded in place. The other side will be held in place with pan head screws to allow access to the lighting components.
The point of the arrow is bent up, the corner radius is formed by stretching using the barrel end body hammer and a piece of steel angle as an anvil.
The point of the arrow is bent up, the corner radius is formed by stretching using the barrel end body hammer and a piece of steel angle as an anvil.
Progress pics from last night... Yep, we've been block sanding..
Using Evercoat 416 to address the few low spots..
Honing up on my painting skills with brush on seam sealer
Today's lesson is on media blasting and stretch damage that occurs. Here’s what a sand blaster will do to a roof skin when blasting the braces underneath.
Our blaster was doing the brace from underneath/inside and the inadvertent stray media hitting the adjacent roof skin stretched it, pulling it inward toward the media stream . On the outside the “unstretched” area shows as a high spot, the stretched part that needs shrinking is seen as a low. So if you must media blast any braces or internal structure, block off the skin next to it so no media touches it. Save yourself the extra body work.
We fixed the lows by locating the exact spots on the inside that needed shrinking and tapping outward into a small shot bag. To locate, a rare earth magnet is placed outside on the roof skin in each low spot, and some grinding dust finds the magnet on the inside where we can mark the perimeter both inside and out, and work with one person on either side to remove the lows. (See video, magnet marks highs or lows, it doesn’t care) For multiple lows, mark both sides of all spots and number them, so you can move from one spot to the next, calling out the number desired to your shrinking assistant. If your car is too clean to have grinding dust, look under your bench grinder.
Magnet use video:
Note on the inside roof skin picture the multiple numbered circles where we found low spots to address.
.
Using Evercoat 416 to address the few low spots..
Honing up on my painting skills with brush on seam sealer
Today's lesson is on media blasting and stretch damage that occurs. Here’s what a sand blaster will do to a roof skin when blasting the braces underneath.
Our blaster was doing the brace from underneath/inside and the inadvertent stray media hitting the adjacent roof skin stretched it, pulling it inward toward the media stream . On the outside the “unstretched” area shows as a high spot, the stretched part that needs shrinking is seen as a low. So if you must media blast any braces or internal structure, block off the skin next to it so no media touches it. Save yourself the extra body work.
We fixed the lows by locating the exact spots on the inside that needed shrinking and tapping outward into a small shot bag. To locate, a rare earth magnet is placed outside on the roof skin in each low spot, and some grinding dust finds the magnet on the inside where we can mark the perimeter both inside and out, and work with one person on either side to remove the lows. (See video, magnet marks highs or lows, it doesn’t care) For multiple lows, mark both sides of all spots and number them, so you can move from one spot to the next, calling out the number desired to your shrinking assistant. If your car is too clean to have grinding dust, look under your bench grinder.
Magnet use video:
Note on the inside roof skin picture the multiple numbered circles where we found low spots to address.
.
xtremek
Well-known member
Thanks for the heads up. I would never have imagined that.
I hate when that happens!
Thanks for the updates, the sign is looking good.
Good catch on the blaster war-page, no matter how small that area would have stuck out like a sore thumb being dead center of the roof.
You're getting closer to color, yeah!
So we've been blocking out epoxy primer, it sure is nice to be able to rotate the car where you need it instead of sanding upside down on the bottoms of drip rails.
But then you walk past the Driver's A pillar and see holes that shouldn't be there.
I don't know how I've missed this before. We did have this same repair done to the other side, I guess with the roof damage confined to that same side I must have not thought this side was suspect. Goes to show, check ALL problem areas, especially if issues show on one side.
Inside the hole has a minimal amount of surface rust, especially for 64 years old. Safe to say the damage was caused by water/dirt accumulation between the center structure (the one we're remaking) and the outer skin. Oh well, it's been a while since I've had a back up and punt moment. Glad this was found before the green kandy went on.
Starting to make the new replacement for the inside, using 14 gauge cold rolled steel.
Quite a bit if stretch added for the part to match the original..
Rough shaped on the MH19, tuned up a bit with body hammers, punches used as anvils, and various other implements of destruction. Trimmed and fitted:
All ready for welding. Meanwhile, Mike has been working on the pointy end of the arrow, here stretching an inside corner to better fit the housing....
And adding holes for the plug welds....
But then you walk past the Driver's A pillar and see holes that shouldn't be there.
I don't know how I've missed this before. We did have this same repair done to the other side, I guess with the roof damage confined to that same side I must have not thought this side was suspect. Goes to show, check ALL problem areas, especially if issues show on one side.
Inside the hole has a minimal amount of surface rust, especially for 64 years old. Safe to say the damage was caused by water/dirt accumulation between the center structure (the one we're remaking) and the outer skin. Oh well, it's been a while since I've had a back up and punt moment. Glad this was found before the green kandy went on.
Starting to make the new replacement for the inside, using 14 gauge cold rolled steel.
Quite a bit if stretch added for the part to match the original..
Rough shaped on the MH19, tuned up a bit with body hammers, punches used as anvils, and various other implements of destruction. Trimmed and fitted:
All ready for welding. Meanwhile, Mike has been working on the pointy end of the arrow, here stretching an inside corner to better fit the housing....
And adding holes for the plug welds....
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice catch Robert.
I'm not gonna lie, I had some of those "oops I missed a spot" moments in my day as well and it was usually after I had sprayed the primer surfacer as well. Then back to cutting and welding. At least you caught it now vs. later when the rust came back through the paint.
I'm not gonna lie, I had some of those "oops I missed a spot" moments in my day as well and it was usually after I had sprayed the primer surfacer as well. Then back to cutting and welding. At least you caught it now vs. later when the rust came back through the paint.
xtremek
Well-known member
Nice catch and even nicer repair. If I can do half as good as you, I'll be ecstatic.