BassProCamaro97
Well-known member
Love the sign. Awesome job as always!
~Jim~
~Jim~
MP&C Shop Projects
- Thread starter MP&C
- Start date
Hellpig
Well-known member
dbl tap!
Hellpig
Well-known member
.
So there's more than ONE Kramer in St. Marys county....
“He is a loathsome, offensive brute, yet I can’t look away.”
Monza Harry
Well-known member
I agree with this hardware remark, [first thing to wander through the vacant space I call my head when I first laid eyes on that pic'] that clearly brings that up a detail level or three! Harry
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shortykorte
Well-known member
Sign is awesome.
Shorty Korte
Always remember quality in QST
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
Shorty Korte
Always remember quality in QST
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
shortykorte
Well-known member
Shorty Korte
Always remember quality in QST
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
nonhog
Well-known member
That was awesome! And thanks for the many posts! Merry Christmas!
xtremek
Well-known member
Merry Christmas
xtremek
Well-known member
I might steal that idea. I can't find a jack stand storage I like.
shortykorte
Well-known member
Simple but effective. Great idea.
Shorty Korte
Always remember quality in QST
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
Shorty Korte
Always remember quality in QST
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Great idea for jack stand storage. I may have to steal that one Robert.
idracingcop
New member
I check this thread almost daily and I have read it front to back twice. Every time I learn more and more!!! 
txvwnut
Well-known member
I can see the pics from your jack stand hangar post but not the ones in your quote.
RADcustom
Well-known member
same here.
racer-john
Well-known member
Let's kick Photobuket to the curb and down the drain ONCE AND FORALL!
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Robert, sorry to see that. If you need to know the name of the photo for retrieval, click on the "Sorry" and then press F12. The photo ID shows up in the window at the bottom of your screen. Doesn't help us but it's a way for you to find out which picture PB is making unavailable.
Thanks Bob, the only reason I was still dicking with PhotoBucket after the extortion caper was all the linked picture posts in this thread (and elsewhere) that would have to be uploaded manually to replace the linked ones.. I don't have time to go back and fix 165 pages, but guess I'm uploading moving forward.
One of my former classmates from high school caught up with me a few months back, and had some work he wanted done on a hood for his Tubbed V8 Plymouth Arrow. Still has the same car from HS almost 4 decades later.. He said he wanted a more professional job over what was done back then..
He had bought an NOS hood for it some years back, so at least he has something solid to work with.. He said the metal flopped a bit around the opening he cut, so I thought we'd make some new bracing on the underside while we were at it. Here's the phenolic dies made for the Lennox to form the new bracing..
Here's a test sample run...
...and a test fit
Next, the bracing we wanted to install needed to go around the bigass hole, and some of the existing brace needed removing.
Our new brace designed to go around the hole... cut in the flat and run through our dies..
And here's about where it will sit....
.
He had bought an NOS hood for it some years back, so at least he has something solid to work with.. He said the metal flopped a bit around the opening he cut, so I thought we'd make some new bracing on the underside while we were at it. Here's the phenolic dies made for the Lennox to form the new bracing..
Here's a test sample run...
...and a test fit
Next, the bracing we wanted to install needed to go around the bigass hole, and some of the existing brace needed removing.
Our new brace designed to go around the hole... cut in the flat and run through our dies..
And here's about where it will sit....
.
Attachments
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Rather than screw up one of the last remaining NOS Plymouth Arrow hoods in existence, let's do a test sample first.. To strengthen the opening, we'll add a 1/8 wire edge protruding upward, which will also help to keep things out.....somewhat. Here's our new dies for the 1/8 wire... This is the "inlet" side...
Side view shows the ramps that will add the joggle
We're using a 22 x 22 piece of 19 gauge for our sample, and folding a 5/16 flange, which needs a bit of stretching to keep things flat. so a rounded hammer on the top of the stump adds a bit of stretch, then a linear stretch hammer and dolly to stretch further and fold things over..
with the flange folded, the sample is run through our dies to form the joggle
1/8 stainless is rolled in our tubing bender/straightener, sized, and TIG welded to form a continuous ring. Then it gets laid in the channel and the flange staked over in various spots to hold it in place using the linear stretch hammer..
Hammering process to fold the flange over. Linear stretch hammer used to add a bit more stretch and to minimize marks left behind..
Finished sample...
….and checked to the brace
Side view shows the ramps that will add the joggle
We're using a 22 x 22 piece of 19 gauge for our sample, and folding a 5/16 flange, which needs a bit of stretching to keep things flat. so a rounded hammer on the top of the stump adds a bit of stretch, then a linear stretch hammer and dolly to stretch further and fold things over..
with the flange folded, the sample is run through our dies to form the joggle
1/8 stainless is rolled in our tubing bender/straightener, sized, and TIG welded to form a continuous ring. Then it gets laid in the channel and the flange staked over in various spots to hold it in place using the linear stretch hammer..
Hammering process to fold the flange over. Linear stretch hammer used to add a bit more stretch and to minimize marks left behind..
Finished sample...
….and checked to the brace
Attachments
Bighead38
Well-known member
That curved piece is awesome.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Great job on the Arrow hood prototype; can't wait to see the finished product.
And, fantastic job (as usual) documenting the process.
And, fantastic job (as usual) documenting the process.
xtremek
Well-known member
Alway amazing to see what you do.
Thanks fellas!
With the practice behind us, lets see what we can do to this hood. The outer circle is the mark for our fold, or opening size. The inner circle is the cut for our flange that will wrap around the 1/8 wire..
Getting our tin snips started...
Hole cut with no filing, no sanding, and absolutely no metal "splinters".
If you have issues with tin snips AT ALL, I recommend Bill Gibson's tin snip video... One of the best training/refresher videos on tin snips..
Next, on to the underside. We have four places where these areas of the old structure was cut out that need to go. Opening the hood to see these remnants would just kill the look, so let's see if we can mimic a factory look here.
A piece of 16 gauge was used as a heat shield and using the Meco torch and the barrel end hammer, reshaped the offset back to flat...
Like it came that way..
With the practice behind us, lets see what we can do to this hood. The outer circle is the mark for our fold, or opening size. The inner circle is the cut for our flange that will wrap around the 1/8 wire..
Getting our tin snips started...
Hole cut with no filing, no sanding, and absolutely no metal "splinters".
If you have issues with tin snips AT ALL, I recommend Bill Gibson's tin snip video... One of the best training/refresher videos on tin snips..
Next, on to the underside. We have four places where these areas of the old structure was cut out that need to go. Opening the hood to see these remnants would just kill the look, so let's see if we can mimic a factory look here.
A piece of 16 gauge was used as a heat shield and using the Meco torch and the barrel end hammer, reshaped the offset back to flat...
Like it came that way..
Attachments
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Great work on the hood. Always learning when I see your work and techniques. Outstanding.
Thanks!
With the hole cut now we need to fold a flange to wrap around the 1/8 wire. The linear stretch hammer and a heel dolly is used to stretch the flange that will be folded down, then a tipping tool takes the flange down about halfway. Then I needed to get in the thick of things, further stretching and hammering over to a 90* flange.
Once the flange is folded, the Lennox is used to add the joggle for our wired edge..
Bottom side....
Top side....
Next we'll get the wire ring sized and some epoxy primer in the channel for some rust prevention.
With the hole cut now we need to fold a flange to wrap around the 1/8 wire. The linear stretch hammer and a heel dolly is used to stretch the flange that will be folded down, then a tipping tool takes the flange down about halfway. Then I needed to get in the thick of things, further stretching and hammering over to a 90* flange.
Once the flange is folded, the Lennox is used to add the joggle for our wired edge..
Bottom side....
Top side....
Next we'll get the wire ring sized and some epoxy primer in the channel for some rust prevention.
Attachments
BORING HOP YARD
Well-known member
Tin snip video was a great refresher! The metal work on the hood is spot on, I'm always amazed at how well finished your metal work is. Nice work Robert!
Thanks for following along guys!
Our 1/8 stainless wire "ring" was formed using our tubing roller, the tool shown here in the vise when we were bending fuel line a few months back....
The ring was then sized to fit, ends TIG welded together, filed, and media blasted for paint adhesion. The channel and surrounding area was abraded with some 120 grit and some SPI epoxy brushed into the channel. The wire gets laid into the channel and another brush coat on any bare spots. Then the flange is staked down using the linear stretch hammer to hold the wire in position...
Then the flange is hammered over as we did previously with our test sample.
After our initial coat of primer had dried, we brushed around the perimeter to seal the wire and flange.
Next will be adding our new structural member to the bottom side.
.
Our 1/8 stainless wire "ring" was formed using our tubing roller, the tool shown here in the vise when we were bending fuel line a few months back....
The ring was then sized to fit, ends TIG welded together, filed, and media blasted for paint adhesion. The channel and surrounding area was abraded with some 120 grit and some SPI epoxy brushed into the channel. The wire gets laid into the channel and another brush coat on any bare spots. Then the flange is staked down using the linear stretch hammer to hold the wire in position...
Then the flange is hammered over as we did previously with our test sample.
After our initial coat of primer had dried, we brushed around the perimeter to seal the wire and flange.
Next will be adding our new structural member to the bottom side.
.
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stinkity stoink
Well-known member
Awesome work Robert !!
Thanks guys!
So last week I had a speed run to SC and had a chance to stop by and check on cousin JB at his upholstery shop. One of the side projects he was working on is a lowered Radio Flyer wagon for his nephew..
He has limited metalwork equipment in his shop and I noticed the rear tire mounts had a small amount of flex under load. I have a bit more equipment for such tasks, so offered to make him a set that was a bit more stout. I happened to have a piece of 3/16 stainless that would serve the purpose. Two pieces were cut out, clamped together, and filed/sanded to be identical parts. The press brake was used to add the bends.. This shows the difference in thickness....
Then 1/2" holes were drilled to accommodate the 1018 steel rod for the axle shafts.. The rod was pushed about 2/3 in, tacked, and checked for perpendicular. Then TIG fusion welded and fillet welded using 312 rod.
Drill the mounting holes and these will be ready to ship back to SC.
I have been out of the Golden Elixer/liquid crack known as Throwback Mountain Dew for quite a while now as our local Pepsi distributor stopped carrying it. As I left JB's shop I saw a Piggly Wiggly food store and thought that the perfect place to stop and check inventory. As luck would have it, SC folks have a much better palate for cool liquid refreshment and still have it on the shelf. I bought all they had..
Now being the resourceful type, I did a location search for all the Piggly Wiggly's heading north. I stopped at a qty of 20, figure that will hold me until the next trip to JB's..
And with the shop inventory restored, all is right with the world..
So last week I had a speed run to SC and had a chance to stop by and check on cousin JB at his upholstery shop. One of the side projects he was working on is a lowered Radio Flyer wagon for his nephew..
He has limited metalwork equipment in his shop and I noticed the rear tire mounts had a small amount of flex under load. I have a bit more equipment for such tasks, so offered to make him a set that was a bit more stout. I happened to have a piece of 3/16 stainless that would serve the purpose. Two pieces were cut out, clamped together, and filed/sanded to be identical parts. The press brake was used to add the bends.. This shows the difference in thickness....
Then 1/2" holes were drilled to accommodate the 1018 steel rod for the axle shafts.. The rod was pushed about 2/3 in, tacked, and checked for perpendicular. Then TIG fusion welded and fillet welded using 312 rod.
Drill the mounting holes and these will be ready to ship back to SC.
I have been out of the Golden Elixer/liquid crack known as Throwback Mountain Dew for quite a while now as our local Pepsi distributor stopped carrying it. As I left JB's shop I saw a Piggly Wiggly food store and thought that the perfect place to stop and check inventory. As luck would have it, SC folks have a much better palate for cool liquid refreshment and still have it on the shelf. I bought all they had..
Now being the resourceful type, I did a location search for all the Piggly Wiggly's heading north. I stopped at a qty of 20, figure that will hold me until the next trip to JB's..
And with the shop inventory restored, all is right with the world..
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txvwnut
Well-known member
Imgur doesn’t play well with GJ or am I the only one having trouble with the images Robert is posting.
jhn9840
Well-known member
Post 3310 is the last one I can see.
jhn9840
John
jhn9840
John
shortykorte
Well-known member
Cool wagon project. At the Moultrie swap meet, a lot of people build custom wagons to carry their purchases.
I see you like your Dew like I like my DrP. [emoji106]
Shorty Korte
Always remember quality in QST
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
I see you like your Dew like I like my DrP. [emoji106]
Shorty Korte
Always remember quality in QST
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
txvwnut
Well-known member
When using imgur you gotta remove the first i then it should work, or at least that’s what I hear.