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My 1975 Chevy Dually Build

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c.schulz

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Jul 22, 2005
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164
Location
mi
Holy ****!!! Those adapters look massive next to the rotors. And then they are cantalievered out so far fron the bearings. Are you sure this safe? Will you be adding larger rotors to comp for the wheels? And what about bearing fairure under heavy loads.

Chris
 

GCncsuHD

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Aug 19, 2013
Messages
968
Location
Salisbury, NC
Holy ****!!! Those adapters look massive next to the rotors. And then they are cantalievered out so far fron the bearings. Are you sure this safe? Will you be adding larger rotors to comp for the wheels? And what about bearing fairure under heavy loads.

Chris

It is safe, the way those adapters are designed the wheel mounting surface is pretty close to being in line with the factory wheel mounting surface. If you look at the back the flange is recessed. While the mount is "cantilevered" out, simple physics will show you that with the deep offset dually wheels the load will still be placed very close to the same point on the bearings as the stock setup.
 
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75Dually

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Dec 5, 2013
Messages
444
Location
Lubbock, TX
It is safe, the way those adapters are designed the wheel mounting surface is pretty close to being in line with the factory wheel mounting surface. If you look at the back the flange is recessed. While the mount is "cantilevered" out, simple physics will show you that with the deep offset dually wheels the load will still be placed very close to the same point on the bearings as the stock setup.

could not have said it better myself...
 

DEEDDUDE

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Jan 9, 2012
Messages
161
Location
Beach City, Texas
Good Work so far. I always wanted a square body dually on bags. Can't wait to see the finished truck.

The truck in your avatar looks good, any pics?
 
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75Dually

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Dec 5, 2013
Messages
444
Location
Lubbock, TX
Stopped by the tire shop on the way home today and got the front tire mounted. The below pics show the suspension at full raise, what I think right now as real world driving height (that will change I am sure...), and how close at full raise I am to the fan (dang close!). I will most likely go to a Vintage Air AC system and do like everyone else and smooth the firewall. I just don't really want to spend another $800 right now, yeah I know cry me a river!

So I did some initial measurements with the cross member at 1 1/2" forward. At full raise the tire is dead center, but as I lower the suspension naturally it moves forward. So I am going to have to find a middle ground. I will let you know where I end up.
 

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75Dually

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Dec 5, 2013
Messages
444
Location
Lubbock, TX
Good Work so far. I always wanted a square body dually on bags. Can't wait to see the finished truck.

The truck in your avatar looks good, any pics?

I think this is the same truck. It is what I what mine to look like when it is completed.
 

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c.schulz

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Jul 22, 2005
Messages
164
Location
mi
It is safe, the way those adapters are designed the wheel mounting surface is pretty close to being in line with the factory wheel mounting surface. If you look at the back the flange is recessed. While the mount is "cantilevered" out, simple physics will show you that with the deep offset dually wheels the load will still be placed very close to the same point on the bearings as the stock setup.

Wow. If you say so. Id still like to see the two side by side before Id fully believe it. And still will you be running larger rotor to comp for the large wheel mass. Pulling heavy loads is a real *** pucker with out awesome brakes.

Chris
 

bigpokie

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May 25, 2013
Messages
438
If your not already, find a forum for these trucks and search. Blower motor mods. I know s10's do them to tuck big wheels and they can keep 3/4 or more of the function after its cut down and reinstalled.
 

GCncsuHD

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Aug 19, 2013
Messages
968
Location
Salisbury, NC
Wow. If you say so. Id still like to see the two side by side before Id fully believe it. And still will you be running larger rotor to comp for the large wheel mass. Pulling heavy loads is a real *** pucker with out awesome brakes.

Chris

I'm not sure what you need to see side by side...

This is a stock C30 rotor/hub:
7af5d91551a4dcf3110a740ed6f54fa8.jpg


This is his stock C30 rotor/hub with the recessed adapter flange mounted.
attachment.php




A dually wheel has roughly 7" or so of backspacing, which puts the center of the wheel roughly over where you see the webbing on the hub go "flat". That is also roughly where the bearings are located.


This is a C30 SRW rotor/hub. It directly swaps in place with the DRW rotor on the same spindle using the same bearings. The wheel mounting surface is much closer to the center of the bearings on this hub, but the wheels on a SRW are offset the opposite way, the load on the bearings winds up roughly in the same place.
BR5521_F_05_15_08.jpg


As far as brake upgrades, due to the design of the rotor/hub combo, there really is much out there. The rotor really isn't that small, but the large lug pattern of the semi wheels dwarfs it. These brakes were pretty good for their time and still effective now. GM used the exact same hub and rotor size and design up through 2000 at which time GM dropped the serviceable bearings and went to a unit bearing style hub with a bolt on spacer to account for the DRW offset. That allowed them to use the same hub on both DRW and SRW models.
 
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75Dually

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Dec 5, 2013
Messages
444
Location
Lubbock, TX
To settle this matter and also put my build page back on track.... First of all there are guys running this setup for many years and I have never heard of one complaint on braking performance. Also the semi wheels running the low profile tires like I have is actually lighter than a standard dually steel rim with a heavy duty towing tire. Yes I have weighed them and have had to drag them all over my shop, I can tell you from experience that this setup is lighter. Plus I am staying with the same diameter as my stock setup, so no increase in tire diameter either. So the performance should be equal to or even better than the stock arrangement.

Now if you want to argue this further please feel free to open a thread and have at it, and now back to our regularly scheduled show...:thumbup:
 
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75Dually

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Dec 5, 2013
Messages
444
Location
Lubbock, TX
The thought of replacing the entire AC system was just driving me nuts. Don't get me wrong I have a Vintage Air system in another ride and it is great.

However my whole issue is that the tire at full drop was going to touch the plastic housing as I have shown in previous pics. To solve this I thought why don't I just rotate the blower assembly up out of the way. So after taking it apart and seeing the room I had available I went for it. Got out the sawzall and cut the housing. As you can see in the pics below it is a tight but nice fit.

With the housing in the new location I had to cut out the hole in the firewall larger for the fresh air, and I also welded up the lower portion that was now outside of the housing. I did not take a pic of that, but might tomorrow. So now I have to glass in the new air tunnel. That should be fun! Not!

I know the tire has a ton more room now. I may have to do some small trimming here and there to get it perfect, but this I feel is a much better solution because the factory AC systems on these truck works very good and I wanted to keep as much of the stock system as possible. I might be all wrong on this and if so I will put an aftermarket system in and call it good, but I hope not...
 

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bigpokie

Well-known member
Joined
May 25, 2013
Messages
438
i dont know if you seen this

If your not already, find a forum for these trucks and search. Blower motor mods. I know s10's do them to tuck big wheels and they can keep 3/4 or more of the function after its cut down and reinstalled.
 
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7

75Dually

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Dec 5, 2013
Messages
444
Location
Lubbock, TX
Tonight I finished up the blower motor modification. I laid aluminum adhesive foil on the inside of the structure. This gave me a firm inner structure as well as some additional heat reflective properties. Then I laid a couple of layers of fiberglass. Yes I got out all the air bubbles after these pics were taken...

I will sand it smooth tomorrow and shoot some paint on it.

Now it's on to some other jobs...
 

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75Dually

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Dec 5, 2013
Messages
444
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Lubbock, TX
i dont know if you seen this

I saw that post but could not find anything that would show me what they actually did. Look at my post just above this and see my solution. I tested the tire a bunch of times to see that I made the best cuts.

Let me know what you think of my solution.

Thanks for helping me out!
 
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75Dually

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Dec 5, 2013
Messages
444
Location
Lubbock, TX
eLevel! Today I have been working on mounting the sensors for my Accuair eLevel system on the front suspension. I have mounted them on the backside of the cross member, and then I drilled and tapped the lower a-arm for the lower mount. I have the passenger side completed, and now I will now copy it on the other side to finish the job.

Not an easy job. Tons of measuring, and quadruple checking everything. Even had to pull the lasers out to make sure I was keeping everything straight, but in the end it moves through the arc very smoothly which makes the whole system function correctly.
 

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bigpokie

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May 25, 2013
Messages
438
The box looks good ! Have you tested the speed / volume yet ? As long as it works don't worry about it.
 
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mikeesracing

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Joined
Jul 4, 2009
Messages
318
Location
Utah
I owned a '78 GMC Dually and an '85 Chevy Dually...both 454's...

I personally paid for , at least, that six lane street, on the coast in Kuwait...

Mine were single cabs, are were real good at kidney relocation...

Like your Buick...

I always wondered who paid for Gulf Road. :3gears:

Thanks
 
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75Dually

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Joined
Dec 5, 2013
Messages
444
Location
Lubbock, TX
I got the drivers side eLevel sensors completed over the weekend. This side took 1/4 of the time, thank goodness something went actually easy for once... Not that this ride has fought me, but more that everything on a 1 ton truck has to be over built (in my opinion). And that takes time...

I got the cross member painted and the holes drilled out for the air lines to exit the cross member as well. I also got the blower box on the firewall painted up as well.

Now my next task that needs to be attacked is all the holes that have to be drilled in the frame so that I can move the cross member up. I have decided to move everything up 1 1/4". Seems like it was the best compromise in the end. I have the passenger side fully drilled out and completed. Now I need to complete the drivers side frame rail, motor mounts, and move the steering box up the same distance as well.

I have decided to push myself to get this truck done by the end of July (budget/job/wife permitting). I am using the Heat Wave show in Austin, TX as my goal. The show is July 26-27, and I plan on being there. So now the crunch is on!
 

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bigpokie

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May 25, 2013
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438
looks nice and clean. i like the mounts you built for the sensors. i keep forgetting that the whole cradle is out of the truck. i bet that makes things alot easier
 
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75Dually

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Dec 5, 2013
Messages
444
Location
Lubbock, TX
looks nice and clean. i like the mounts you built for the sensors. i keep forgetting that the whole cradle is out of the truck. i bet that makes things alot easier

It makes working on all this front end stuff a ton easier. Just place it on my work table and go to town. I can do a lot more precise work there instead of lying on my back on the floor like I have worked in the past.
 
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75Dually

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Dec 5, 2013
Messages
444
Location
Lubbock, TX
Got all my tires mounted today (finally!). So tonight I put the rear duals on. I was seriously crossing my fingers as I checked out the clearances as I raised the rear end. I was so happy to find out all the hard work paid off!! No clearance issues!!! I have 1/2" total clearance at the top when the rear is at it's lowest point.

The reason for the lack of clearance issues is Tennessee Wheel and Tire machined the face of the rear rims, and that gave me the 3/4" of clearance I needed. I cannot thank Trevor enough. If you want work done for your dually wheels that is the place to go!

I cannot tell you how happy I am that I do not have to modify the rear fenders. That saves me days and days of work. Now I can concentrate on some more important portions of the build.

Stay tuned
 

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75Dually

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444
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Lubbock, TX
Very nice, I love the Townastys, I must have missed it, but what are you running for inners?

Actually they are not Townastys. Both rims are 22.5" Accurides that have the face milled down 3/8" on each rim, which gave me 3/4" extra clearance. I am running a 285/45/22 tire on the rear.

I was working on the balance of the front end tonight. I got the steering box moved forward along with trial fitting the cross member. So far so good. Tomorrow I should have the front suspension completed. I will snap some pics when I get it completed.
 
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75Dually

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Dec 5, 2013
Messages
444
Location
Lubbock, TX
I got the cross member installed as well as the steering box today. Everything now is 1 1/4" forward!! I also got the brakes and the adapters painted. Tomorrow I need to paint the calipers and then do a lot of the small items to finish up this portion of the build.

The air line is on the floor in these pics. I will run them to the back tomorrow and secure them to the frame rail with OEM clamps. Whew I am beat
 

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75Dually

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Dec 5, 2013
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Lubbock, TX
It's on baby! It's on the ground!!!

Got it off the stands tonight, and I got the front suspension completed! In the pic below it is on the cross member and the rear is all the way down.

I will put some video out tonight of the front end and the whole truck raising and lowering.:D
 

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bigpokie

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May 25, 2013
Messages
438
weeeellllllll, im juust going to leave these right here





this had a cummings under the hood





and a little custom frame work



just a few pics for motivation
 
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75Dually

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Dec 5, 2013
Messages
444
Location
Lubbock, TX
OK other than all the York and air ride stuff I have been working on, I did get my battery box finished today. Once the paint dries I will show you guys the mounting system I came up with. It is super simple, but secure which is really what matters.
 

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HTGTS350

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Mar 2, 2010
Messages
603
Your work is top notch but after seeing all of this I'm glad I decided on the 19.5s instead off 22.5s, keep up the good work, can't wait to see the finished article.
 
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75Dually

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Dec 5, 2013
Messages
444
Location
Lubbock, TX
Your work is top notch but after seeing all of this I'm glad I decided on the 19.5s instead off 22.5s, keep up the good work, can't wait to see the finished article.

Thanks man! Actually you do not have to do all the items I am doing to run 22.5's, but is does help!

I hope to have it finished fairly soon so I can take the family to a couple of shows this year.

Thanks again for the encouragement!
 
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75Dually

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Dec 5, 2013
Messages
444
Location
Lubbock, TX
I got the battery box installed along with the batteries today. Went to our local battery supply house and got them to make me a positive line to run to the starter.

I had left the wiring for the electric fuel pump/fuel sender on the donor vehicle until I was ready for it. So tonight I went out and pulled it, but the end had been cut! Oh no! So I went and pulled my wiring diagrams and got all serious about finding where these two loan soldiers are supposed to go. So after that I went out to look at the truck I noticed a couple hanging wires close to the main harness, and they had a piece of tape attached to them where I had written "Find out where these go?" on it. Low and behold they were the same color wires as the ones I was looking for. I don't remember cutting them, but I must have done it when I yanked the engine... And I thought I was being extra careful labeling everything... Well at least the mystery is now solved! Duh!
 

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