OEM Briggs $60 replacement the carb same as $15 ebay/amazon?

[38 Dodge Coupe]

I will never buy another rebuild kit for a small engine carb after the success that I have had with the replacement models. On some I have had to swap some of the parts from the original to the replacement but it was worth it. In each case they ran great.


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[JRC3]

I am digging up this old thread because I am looking to buy a carburetor for a snow blower. I am going to try one of the cheap Chinese ones from ebay.

I am one of those people that does NOT think they are all the same. But I am OK with taking some risk.

Does anyone have any tips or tricks on how to pick a good product or good seller?

If it matters, the carb is for a Troy-Bilt Storm 2410 snow blower with a 179cc engine. It's made by MTD and is about 5 years old.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Joe Mamma

Would need the exact model number and/or the model number on the engine.

 

[The Cobbler]

get one with adjustable main jet if you can .

 

[Joe Mamma]

Would need the exact model number and/or the model number on the engine.

The snow blower model number on a sticker on the snow blower is:
31AS62N2711

There are a few places on the engine of the snow blower where the following number shows up. I think it is the engine code/type:
265-SUA

The manufacturer website (MTD) shows conflicting information for the correct carburetor. I think the following is the correct part number. I plan on comparing the manufacturer website pictures to the carb that is actually on the snow blower. But I have not gotten a chance to do that yet.
951-12705

Plugging that part number into ebay's search box with the word "carburetor" currently results in about 200 results. I don't think they are all different, but I don't think they are all the same. I'm not looking for someone to pick one out for me. But I am looking for ways to distinguish good carburetors and good sellers from bad ones.

Thank you for any help you can provide.

Joe Mamma

 

[Joe Mamma]

I will never buy another rebuild kit for a small engine carb after the success that I have had with the replacement models. On some I have had to swap some of the parts from the original to the replacement but it was worth it. In each case they ran great.

That's interesting to know. I was thinking about asking about people's experiences with small parts compatibility and interchangeability with these carbs. That would be very telling. But I assume most people are just swapping out the entire units.

In my experience in the past (not with these cheap carbs), small parts between OEM items and their cheaper Chinese counterparts that were supposed to be "the same thing, just cheaper" often did not interchange. So obviously they were not the same thing. I've also noticed differences like different and weird thread sizes for bolts and screws, aluminum versus steel for the same part, and plastic parts that were significantly different (in material and fit).

Joe Mamma

 

[nmantas]

I have not been as lucky with cheapo chinese carbs. I'm 1 out of 5, Mantis tiller works fine but a weed whip, snowblower, outboard, and lawnmower all had issues.

 

[Jeffh40]

I will never buy another rebuild kit for a small engine carb after the success that I have had with the replacement models. On some I have had to swap some of the parts from the original to the replacement but it was worth it. In each case they ran great.


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This is what I'm hoping for. Just ordered my first China carb on Amazon to replace the one on my circa 1985 snow blower with a Tecumseh engine.

 

[dlwilson]

I replaced the carb on a friend's 49cc scooter last year, after he let it sit and the carb got clogged with bad gas. For $23 delivered I got a new carb, with all the intricate parts and even some electrics/electronics (choke?). It started first try. I don't know how they can do that. Chinese orphans?

 

[demarpaint]

This is what I'm hoping for. Just ordered my first China carb on Amazon to replace the one on my circa 1985 snow blower with a Tecumseh engine.

I've used several of them for fixing OPE for myself, friends and family. I haven't had a problem with any of them. I've probably used a dozen or more in the past few years.

 

[Jeffh40]

I replaced the carb on a friend's 49cc scooter last year, after he let it sit and the carb got clogged with bad gas. For $23 delivered I got a new carb, with all the intricate parts and even some electrics/electronics (choke?). It started first try. I don't know how they can do that. Chinese orphans?

Possibly Chinese orphans.

$15.00 for mine and it came with all of the accessory parts. No idea how they do it that cheap.

 

[jives]

Not to derail the thread, but I did the same with the starter in my Kohler 16 hp K341 (Wheel Horse). The OEM was about $240, the off brand (China) from DB Electrical was, I think, $49. Popped right in, been a year, no problems. It did look a bit different from the original, but it works.

 

[JRC3]

The snow blower model number on a sticker on the snow blower is:
31AS62N2711

There are a few places on the engine of the snow blower where the following number shows up. I think it is the engine code/type:
265-SUA

The manufacturer website (MTD) shows conflicting information for the correct carburetor. I think the following is the correct part number. I plan on comparing the manufacturer website pictures to the carb that is actually on the snow blower. But I have not gotten a chance to do that yet.
951-12705

Plugging that part number into ebay's search box with the word "carburetor" currently results in about 200 results. I don't think they are all different, but I don't think they are all the same. I'm not looking for someone to pick one out for me. But I am looking for ways to distinguish good carburetors and good sellers from bad ones.

Thank you for any help you can provide.

Joe Mamma

This is who and what I'd probably buy. https://www.ebay.com/itm/CARBURETOR...041409?hash=item3afc0137c1:g:j8EAAOSwqBpaTPFx

...
I just searched and I've purchased from that seller twice over the past few years. One an unloader for my powerwasher and the other a deck cable for my riding mower.

 

[DGersic]

This is what I'm hoping for. Just ordered my first China carb on Amazon to replace the one on my circa 1985 snow blower with a Tecumseh engine.

I have one on my similar aged Snapper 1030. Also a Tecumseh engine. Works great.



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[Joe Mamma]

This is who and what I'd probably buy. https://www.ebay.com/itm/CARBURETOR...041409?hash=item3afc0137c1:g:j8EAAOSwqBpaTPFx

...
I just searched and I've purchased from that seller twice over the past few years. One an unloader for my powerwasher and the other a deck cable for my riding mower.

Just based on a quick comparison, the ebay one looks a little different than the one on the snow blower. I noticed the fuel drain screw on the ebay one is just a hex head, but the one on the snow blower is both a hex head and Phillips head.

That being said, I'll take my chances. I appreciate the link and you sharing your experiences with the seller. I just placed an order for it.

Joe Mamma

 

[theoldwizard1]

get one with adjustable main jet if you can .

What you really want is one with an adjustable idle/primary/pilot jet (same thing; different people use different terms). These have not existed in over 20-30 years !

Finding the idle/primary/pilot jet on some carbs is a challenge ! Many are hidden under a difficult to remove plastic piece. Some are even under a metal Welch plug.

Most carbs, including replacement, are set up for a very lean idle. Because this is also the primary jet, the main/secondary jet can not supply enough fuel. The engine starves, starts to stall and the governor kicks up the speed so the engine speed surges/oscillates up and down.

One guy on YouTube goes so far as to disassemble the carb, remove the idle/primary/pilot jet, using number (NOT fractional) drill bits determines the existing size and steps it up by about 2 numbers.

 

[theoldwizard1]

One trick I just learned from a YouTube video. Tecumseh engines can surge because there is too much "play" (slop) in the linkage between the governor arm and the throttle. This can cause an undershoot/overshoot condition.

Many B&S engines have a very light spring that runs between the governor arm and the throttle to remove that that slop.

 

[Provincial]

I, too have gone to the China carburetors. I find they work just like the OEM.

On B&S parts:

I just rebuilt an 18 HP vertical V-Twin. I had to hone the cylinders oversize .020 because B&S no longer carries +.010 pistons. The pistons come with rings and piston pin retainer rings, but not a piston pin. My old piston pins are about 1/8" too long to fit in the new pistons, the retaining ring grooves are too close together. Two weeks of trying by my vendor could not get an answer from B&S about what piston pin I should order. I tried to find it out online, but failed. I ended up shortening my old pins on my lathe with a tool post grinder.

I think B&S changed the piston/pin design when they changed the 18 HP model a few years ago. The piston with that bore sized probably superseded the old one, but they didn't make any service bulletin or note in the parts lists showing the need for the new piston pin. The parts lists still show the old, longer, pin.

Briggs is dead to me now. I'll never buy another of their products.

 

[Joe Mamma]

Following up on my posts above, I ordered 2 carbs from the same seller at the same.

The two I received are actually a little bit different from each other. At least one of the screws is different, the primer hoses are different (different inside and outside diameters), the gaskets material is different (but very similar in shape), and even the cast aluminum carb bodies are slightly different (which surprised me the most). The more closely I look, the more differences I see.

To be clear, I am not saying the 2 carbs are just a little different from the original carb on the snow blower. I am saying the 2 carbs I received from the same place in the same order are slightly different from each other.

I am guessing they will probably work (or some combination of the parts if I swap them out). But I wasn't expecting 2 from the same order to be different. The part numbers on the outside of the boxes are the same.

I would still probably order them again.

Joe Mamma

 

[dlwilson]

Reviving this thread with another data point. A friend called me because her five year old mower wouldn't start (Briggs & Stratton engine). I diagnosed it as a carb issue, and found a replacement on Amazon for $15. That was Saturday, the carb arrived on Sunday, and she was mowing Sunday afternoon. It was less than an hour total time for me.

 

[JRC3]

Just ordered one...Will report once received and installed. https://www.ebay.com/itm/153099030942

Was given a Huskee Supreme MTD (Troy Bilt Bronco) with a **** Kohler Courage 19 (SV590) engine. It's very low hours but has been sitting for years...Cleaned the carb but still won't run without choke. Carb solenoid is also bad. For $17 I'll just throw one of these ebay carbs on it.

Going into my third season with this carb and it has been completely flawless. I hate to admit this but for the first time ever I left my mower sitting out next to the shed all winter.
And it wasn't even covered or tarped, I was just too busy to remove the deck last year to get it in the shed...I even left the battery in which I never do. It fired right up like I'd just mowed with it the week before. Didn't even need to jump the battery. My snowblower with the $8 carb has given the same results.

Yes, I am a fanboy of these cheap carbs. lol

 

[theoldwizard1]

get one with adjustable main jet if you can .

I have not seen a small engine carburetor with adjustable idle/primary and/or main/secondary jets in probably over 30 years !

 

[Davefr]

I have not seen a small engine carburetor with adjustable idle/primary and/or main/secondary jets in probably over 30 years !

I rec'd one about 2 weeks ago for Echo. From my experience the aftermarket carbs don't always bother with limiters, hidden screws, special caps, fixed jets and all the other EPA nonsense. That makes them better then OEM because they're fully adjustable. It appears the EPA doesn't regulate these aftermarket parts.

YMMV.

 

[seber]

I replaced the Kiehin on my John Deere with Chinese copy last year. It never ran right. Yesterday I replaced it with another one. Turns out the first one had a leaky float. It now runs like new.

 

[four.cycle]

Tecumseh replacement carburetors (made in China)

The "rebuild kit" (needle & seat, bowl gasket, and main jet gasket): about $5 bucks.

The primer bulb (with retaining ring): about $6 bucks.

The whole carburetor, brand new, delivered, with mounting gasket , including 10.5% sales tax: $10.84 each

This isn't rocket science. Why should I screw around "rebuilding" carburetors?

photos in following post:

 

[four.cycle]

^ see previous post

 

[M6erfan]

Going into my third season with this carb and it has been completely flawless. I hate to admit this but for the first time ever I left my mower sitting out next to the shed all winter.
And it wasn't even covered or tarped, I was just too busy to remove the deck last year to get it in the shed...I even left the battery in which I never do. It fired right up like I'd just mowed with it the week before. Didn't even need to jump the battery. My snowblower with the $8 carb has given the same results.

Yes, I am a fanboy of these cheap carbs. lol

A carburetor that combats stale gas and drained batteries? Sign me up!

 

[JRC3]

A carburetor that combats stale gas and drained batteries? Sign me up!

Combatting stale gas is easy...I Just bought 5 gallons of 100% this afternoon to start the season. The battery was luck, but my point was I didn't need to crank the heck out of a battery that sat outside all winter. I got lucky on the battery, and its a cheap Rural King $20 one that's going into it's third season.

 

[Mr_B]

^
combatting stale gas maybe easy but combatting some peoples faith in the miracle of a 10buck chinese cure all carb is not as easy lol .
Some of the carbs are fairly decent but lot of them are poor quality and primer bulbs gaskets o-rings and floats/fuel needle can be issues out the box or within 12 months .
I've used a few and you need choose wisely and none been exact manufacture of original, is a lot of factories kicking these out and the reason they get so cheap at times as they produce bulk in short production runs then mass of stock sits in a stagnant and competitive market

 

[livinloud11]

I just ordered a $16 carb from amazon for my pressure washer yesterday. Well see how it works today when it gets here.

 

[tdkkart]

I bought an $18.99 "tune up kit" for my Echo leaf blower a couple weeks ago, consisted of a carb, extra primer bulbs, gaskets, air filter, spark plug and all new fuel lines w/filter.
Installed it over the weekend, 2 pulls, started and runs perfect. It had been having a lean bog for a couple years, but I can't take the time to fiddle with the carb for less than $20.

 

[theoldwizard1]

This isn't rocket science. Why should I screw around "rebuilding" carburetors?

Lawn mowers and snowblowers will "get the job done" with an occasional drop in RPM from running lean doesn't matter. You don't want that on a generator !

Aftermarket small engine carbs just never seem "perfect" replacements.


Segue - I have an old tiller with a B&S 5HP. I hadn't started it in 2 year. Stored with E10 in the tank. Gave it a shot of starting fluid and it fired right up. I let it run for about 30 minutes. It coughed a couple of time, but kept running !

 

[rider]

Tecumseh replacement carburetors (made in China)

The "rebuild kit" (needle & seat, bowl gasket, and main jet gasket): about $5 bucks.

The primer bulb (with retaining ring): about $6 bucks.

The whole carburetor, brand new, delivered, with mounting gasket , including 10.5% sales tax: $10.84 each

This isn't rocket science. Why should I screw around "rebuilding" carburetors?

photos in following post:

I'm still rebuilding carbs in equipment that's nearly 70 years old. I'll take a properly rebuild carb over a Chinese clone any day. It may not be rocket science, but I suppose it does take a bit of skill and patience.

 

[JRC3]

Got one coming for the old Honda gen. $25 bucks with air filter, fuel filter, insulator...I won't use the plug. I'll post the results.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/16100-ZB2-035-Honda-EB2200X-EM1800X-EM2200X-Generator-Replacement-Carburetor/353243384141?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Bad rainfall with wind and the power went out yesterday so I fired this thing up to use for the first time....Fired right up first pull and purred like a kitten under every load. Ran my sump, fridge, TV, lighting, coffee maker, etc like a champ. Every start after that it fired halfway through the first pull. Awesome. Glad they got the power back on this evening.

Current rendition has a poly can as fuel cell with petcock installed. Carb was 25 bucks, man.

 

[jonesg]

Ladyfriend of mine was given a 5 year old Troybilt riding mower w/B&S 13.5? HP engine last year. I think her other friend simply buys a new one every 4-5 years and does nothing to them in between.
Anyhow, after new blades, air filter and prefilter, and it's first oil change, it ran fine a few times. Then she got a crankcase full of gas. Common with these gravity fed Nikki carbs which are similar to the OP's, though a different model.
A kit did not fix that problem and I can't see why. Read that is a common occurrence so I got a new ChiCom knockoff. It fits well an looks identical at a glance, but side by side with the old one, there are some small differences which indicate a different manufacturer.
New carb doesn't leak, but it wouldn't idle properly: severe surging. Adjusting idle mixture screw did nothing. Checked for vacuum leaks and seemed to find one, but torquing the mounting nuts didn't make much difference though spraying carb cleaner indicated no more leak.
Finally took a piece of wire and checked the passages. The ones for the idle circuit? from the air intake side and fuel (bowl) side were not drilled through. Bushings seemed okay though. I might have drilled the fuel side, but I can't drill the intake side.
I had selected a seller whose ad stated for factory defect: lifetime warranty. Took an extra message to convince them this carb is bad. They finally told me to order and pay for another one, then they will reverse the charge on the newer one. Am now waiting for the newer one. Hope it's good and they reverse charge, and I can give them a good rating. We'll see.
Point is they're no't exactly the same. If one works well, it doesn't matter and you save money. If it doesn't work well ...
When researching these carbs, some don't even have idle mixture screws so watch out for that. Also warranties/returns vary widely, so you might want to consider that too.

CA compliant carbs often seal the adjustment screw under a welch plug.

 

[larry4406]

I also went the Chinese way recently for a Briggs & Stratton 798653 carb on a chipper/shredder I got for free. Carb was $13.38. Came in a white box without descriptions/directions. Looks identical except for the improved 90 degree once piece fuel barb (oem one was a plastic elbow fused on a pressed in barb which had failed).

Amazon.com : 798653 Carburetor for Briggs & Stratton 696981 698860 694508 795069 698859 790180 790290 693865 697354 698474 791991 698810 698857 698478 694174 690046 693751 Craftsman 791077 Carburetor 591299 798650 : Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com : 798653 Carburetor for Briggs & Stratton 696981 698860 694508 795069 698859 790180 790290 693865 697354 698474 791991 698810 698857 698478 694174 690046 693751 Craftsman 791077 Carburetor 591299 798650 : Garden & Outdoor

www.amazon.com

Side by side pics showing them. Only difference was weight - old one much heavier but that might be fuel solids in the bowl which gummed up. No idea how long the machine had been sitting.

 

[Maui]

I have one on my similar aged Snapper 1030. Also a Tecumseh engine. Works great.



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I have a Snapper 1030 snowblower too. About 4 years ago it developed a problem that I was able to isolate to the carburetor, so I removed the carburetor and had a local shop rebuild it for me. It cost about $65.00 total. I reinstalled it and made the proper adjustments, and only used non-ethanol gasoline in snowblower from that point forward. It’s been running like a champ ever since.

For future reference can you provide a link to the carburetor that you purchased? What did it cost?

 

[larry4406]

When I installed the Chinese carb I also installed a fuel shutoff valve. When I’m done using the machines I shut the fuel off and let it run till the carb is empty. I use 10% ethanol regular fuel with Stabil.

 

[seber]

Briggs owns their carburetor plant. They cycle castings as required which are then shipped to the US and assembled. Im not going to argue that a $60 or even a $40 small engine Carb made in China isn't price gouging but you're way off base first claiming that they were 100% identical and then shifting over to its "probably" the same place just making knock-offs. I said it on the prior page and you don't want to comprehend it. They're different, they're made cheaper. The castings are junk, the QC is non-existant, and they use Chinese carburetor insides most times where the Briggs plant uses US manufactured gaskets, floats, needles, and jets (most times). Use whatever you want but step off your soapbox over whats made where because you have no idea what you're talking about. End of discussion.

No they don't. Having been on this end of sourcing Chinese parts for our company I can say that the Chinese government would not allow that. The best we could manage was a partnership. That company would make our parts to our spec but we could not stop them from making the same parts for others.

 

[leadfoot415]

Put a $15 china carb on a 7hp tecumseh snow thrower engine, some tuning and it runs again with minimal investment. Turned a trash picked junk snow thrower into a viable unit for about $35 or 40 bucks between a carb and 2 new tires, Gf's parents bought a new larger property this past year and it was a great "housewarming" gift. Spent a bunch of my labor time tinkering, but who cares... something to do while chilling at home and having some brews.

 

[American Locomotive]

I really wish the OEMs would actually price their replacement parts reasonably. Instead they're just driving this whole counterfeit industry.

Like how are you going to tell me the carb for a $200 lawnmower cost $61? That's nearly 1/3rd the cost of the entire machine. Figure the profit the retailer needs to make - they're probably acquiring the whole mower from the manufacturer for $150. The manufacturer needs to source the deck, wheels, blades, any accessories, and also make money. So at most, they're probably paying Briggs ~$40-50 for the engine. Briggs has the same thing going on - they need to make money, too. So it likely costs them $30-40 to build the entire engine. The carb is going to be a very small portion of that - like $5-8, max.