The $9.99 plug kit I bought at NAPA YEARS ago hasn't left me down yet. I think they're lazy personally. Changing tires is easier than plugging them. OR at least requires less brains ... who knows ....


The $9.99 plug kit I bought at NAPA YEARS ago hasn't left me down yet. I think they're lazy personally. Changing tires is easier than plugging them. OR at least requires less brains ... who knows ....



One car has a blowout because of sometime someone probably did incorrectly in the first place and now there is a corporate policy saying NO MORE !! I guess that's now it works.Yeah, but it's a corporate policy everywhere. They have no say in the matter.
I agree with you though, that is a safe and fine tire unless you really need an alignment and happen to burn that outer tread off way too prematurely. Still doubt it would do more than slowly leak down![]()
Oh we've had plenty tires around here get "pregnant" and they get replaced as soon as possible or stay out of service until they can be replaced. That typically only happens to us on OLD tires on machinery that doesn't get used much.Apparently there are people who can't figure out how to install a plug.
When you do get a separation which may have been caused by air getting between the plies you replace the tire. It does not cause an accident. And the kids like a little thump thump.
This makes sense but makes me giggle ....BTW-
they can shave down a tire so it matches the wear on the other three.
So you don't have to buy a "set"
"What happens if a tire blows out or is not repairable due to a road hazard? Depending on vehicle manufacturer recommendations regarding tread depth or overall diameter measurements a new tire may need to be shaved. Typically we see about 30% difference in tread depth as the starting point to shave tires for proper tread depth on replacement tires.
If you have tires that are about 30% worn it may benefit to buy just one matching tire and have it shaved to the correct tread depth by Tire Rack prior to shipping. Give the Tire Rack an extra day to shave the tire and we'll ship it directly to you or your installer. If the tire is more than half worn it may be beneficial to replace all four tires for your vehicle with new tires."
https://blog.tirerack.com/blog/chad...ng-to-match-tires-on-all-wheel-drive-vehicles
Bob everyone likes bigger wheels. I'd go bigger than 18's You'd blend right in with some 22's on that VetteTire store did the exact same thing to me. Said the screw was an inch from the sidewall (looked like more to me but you know how we have trouble measuring inches). Because I only brought in the wheel and tire, it only cost me one tire. Stupid thing is I have a plug kit and mini-compressor in each of my cars. I was just lazy and figured a $20 patch would be no big deal. Had to wash the tire before putting it in the Corvette to take to the tire store.
My '87 Corvette takes 255/50R16 tires and one tire got messed up. One of the clip-on weights they used caused the bead to open ever so slightly when I parked the car with that weight at the bottom. Didn't realize how low it was and as I turned from the driveway to the road the tire came off the rim. Took the wheel off and went to the place that installed the tires in 1992. Goodyear discontinued the tire so I bought four cheap Sumitomo tires (dated November 2007). Now it appears only BF Goodrich makes a street tire in that size and by the time I have them mounted and balanced it's $750. Checked around and discovered I can buy 18" rims and tires ready to put on the car for $250 more. I would have a much bigger selection of tires in the future.

Bah the meals are nothing crazy. Just some hot iron and meat mostly. Add a little bacon grease and don't burn anything and you can easily do anything I do.The crowd on here is a pretty intense one to try to impress. Not an easy deal. Good thing I don't much care about all that ...... or at least only a little bit![]()
Count me as impressed with those meals you make for your co-workers
Once her "favorite mechanic" has his new shop there will be an end to other peoples greasy hands all over my machinery ......
This just sounds kinda wrong to me....
Jay
It's not that cold yet. It's -20F with a windchill of -43F. Last winter there were days where this would have felt like a heat wave. You're quite a bit farther South than me so I'm sure it's in the mid 40's thereHow's the chicky nuggy barn doing on a brisk morning such as this?






Mike, sounds like a plan. I'm thinking something subtle, like this:Bob everyone likes bigger wheels. I'd go bigger than 18's You'd blend right in with some 22's on that Vette![]()
Mike, sounds like a plan. I'm thinking something subtle, like this:
Or maybe something that would appeal to my great-grandchildren:






Ok well it seems you think that the estimate is either way high or really low. The garage doors are going to be on the East side so I really do not anticipate any freezing issues with the doors. That being said, they were going to space the pipes a lot closer for a few runs right inside the garage doors.12k for infloor heat? how on earth.
edit: be sure to do a loop around the garage door inside and outside. keep the ice/drift off the door jam. now your quote is 15k. sorry.
I'd have to add it up but I think over a half million chickens so far !!!How many chicks have you run through the barn so far?
I'll help spend some of your money … however many hangers you're using on your garage doors, double it. Five years later, you will thank me. Nothing like a smooth rolling garage door.
Ok well it seems you think that the estimate is either way high or really low. The garage doors are going to be on the East side so I really do not anticipate any freezing issues with the doors. That being said, they were going to space the pipes a lot closer for a few runs right inside the garage doors.
It's a 54x72 building so 3,888 square feet. Even with foam it's under $4/sq ft for all materials and labor. I know in floor heat is the most expensive upfront cost to heat anything but once you've been in a shop or really in an anything with it you'll hand over dump trucks of money to have it for yourself.
ohhh you got foam underlay in that cost too? that makes more sense. I was thinking it was just your line, manifold and install cost.
They space them closer around the edge of the building for heat loss. not actual heating heating. put the loop just outside the door as well. does the wind not blow in your part of MN?
really good example of them working.
and yes; you'll hand over buckets of money for floor heat. buy once, cry once.
Not sure about the heat, but ya definitely need one of those front end loader poop scoopers
I said I'd keep y'all updated on the costs of the 2049 Shop so here goes ....
Materials thus far ....
Building the building with garage doors and everything on the exterior - $48,772.42
Finishing the inside with insulating, steel, trim and the whole works - $22,913.93
Building the office/bathroom area with steel outside, insulation and a floor upstairs - $3,287.85
Concrete floor, poured and floated with a few drains to work around - $16,525
In floor heat labor and materials (foam is in the inside shop materials number) - $12,000
Not a bad idea. The garage doors will be installed by Heartland Door out of St. Joseph, MN. They've done a few doors for us before and do fantastic work. A 26'x16' overhead is a rather pricey and quite heavy door so I think it's best to let them do it I guess ....Both! Lot of weight hanging there day after day, better to spread it out as much as you can. Easier to do it while building than from the top of a ladder while trying to line everything up and hold on![]()
The foam, pipes, fittings, boiler, manifold, glycol, install and everything else that goes with it to make it work are all right at $15,000. Foam is coming from the lumber yard and is right around $27 per 2" sheet and is the under concrete/weight rated stuff. Don't remember the type/kind/name but it's the right stuff.ohhh you got foam underlay in that cost too? that makes more sense. I was thinking it was just your line, manifold and install cost.
They space them closer around the edge of the building for heat loss. not actual heating heating. put the loop just outside the door as well. does the wind not blow in your part of MN?
really good example of them working.
and yes; you'll hand over buckets of money for floor heat. buy once, cry once.
Oh yeah I agree !!! That would be a BEAST to have !!!Not sure about the heat, but ya definitely need one of those front end loader poop scoopers
We will be getting the sand in and getting it close to grade and the builder will do the rest of the grading to get it right where he wants it.When u say poured and floated, are u saying poured and trowel finish? Is that a 6" floor with 1/2" rebar 3'O/C?
"Concrete floor, poured and floated with a few drains to work around - $16,525"
So far the only thing that I know that will be in the shop are a beer/bacon fridge and the 7400 tractor and grinder mixer. And welder and tools of course. I'm planning to use it as a shop and not a heated storage building. Or at least that's the plan.JBL: That should be some build and hopefully it will house all your cool rigs and stuff. I've seen some interesting ways to put some heavy duty hooks in/under the floor so the user has a way to bend bent frames or straighten things and hope yours works for you.
Hope you remember it's Valentine's day so maybe remember to pick up mama bear some flowers or candy or take her out for a good meal if your weather will let you.
I heard you are in the middle of a deep freeze again so STAY WARM and best of luck with that.
Cheers!!
That looks amazing !! Any chance you have some pictures of the bracing you put in the floor to support them and keep them from pulling out ??JBL Here’s a pic of the in floor anchor points outside my farm shop door. It has two sizes of square tube receivers in addition to provision for hooks. Portable tables, vises, benders etc can be attached.
Four similar ones are within the shop.
That's not a bad idea at all .... I'd imagine the door will be over the concrete from the shop floor so there should be some heat transfer to the area under the door no matter what I'd thinkif ya have an extra manifold run then do the door stuff on their own run. then only enable when/if its an issue.

Couldn't agree more with both of thoseIt's expensive but a warm shop sure is nice!

We were sort of thinking of something similar to what you're describing for at least 2 of the hold downs. The idea would be to be able to use them as an anchor point to jack against something without pulling the floor up. We thought that taking a couple good scoops of dirt out with the excavator and filling with rebar and concrete would do pretty good already.JBL: We've got tie downs in the hangar floor for running our jets at max power. Because we pull both in both horizontal and vertical planes, the tie down is a welded whiffletree that is set at an angle thru the concrete and into a pit. For yours, just do a vertical whiffletree down into a hole. IE. drill a 24" hole a foot or two deeper than the base of the slab and set the tree down in there and fill with concrete as the slab is poured.
BTW... I think our tie owns are rated for something like 100,000 lb loads and our slabs are around 18" thick...
We were at the park when you posted. The temps aren't a big deal when it's all insideJBL: Did I read that you are headed (or just came back) to a water park? Aren't you in the middle of a DEEP FREEZE? since I think you have the biggest indoor mall in the world is the water park inside or did you fly the family to California?
Hope you are having fun

Similar I'd imagine. It was the Comfort Inn Rapid River Lodge in Baxter, MN.Drives: Probably a place like Great Wolf Lodge. Indoor waterpark for the kids, a couple of planned non water activities and food along with summer camp style hotel rooms.
I know I saw a few kids standing still and let out a little "I just pee'd" shiver more than once so yeah I agree on thatWe have a grey wolf lodge about 90 minutes from us that our kids take our grandkids too that was built after our kids were grown and gone. From the pics I’d prefer outdoors water parks but even getting in those now knowing how many kids (and adults) pee in them has me not running to go to them either. The long long water slides built in the late 60’s with water or dry with potato sacks would be more my style.







