To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Above 1200 Sq/FT Out on Quaker Road

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Farmall450

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 23, 2011
Messages
13,355
Location
Marengo, Illinois
The $9.99 plug kit I bought at NAPA YEARS ago hasn't left me down yet. I think they're lazy personally. Changing tires is easier than plugging them. OR at least requires less brains ... who knows ....

Yeah, but it's a corporate policy everywhere. They have no say in the matter.

I agree with you though, that is a safe and fine tire unless you really need an alignment and happen to burn that outer tread off way too prematurely. Still doubt it would do more than slowly leak down :dunno:
 

oldironfarmer

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
Messages
6,664
Location
Terlton, Oklahoma
Apparently there are people who can't figure out how to install a plug.:lol_hitti

When you do get a separation which may have been caused by air getting between the plies you replace the tire. It does not cause an accident. And the kids like a little thump thump.
 

red

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 20, 2009
Messages
720
Location
Hudson Valley, NY
The $9.99 plug kit I bought at NAPA YEARS ago hasn't left me down yet. I think they're lazy personally. Changing tires is easier than plugging them. OR at least requires less brains ... who knows ....

BTW-
they can shave down a tire so it matches the wear on the other three.
So you don't have to buy a "set"


"What happens if a tire blows out or is not repairable due to a road hazard? Depending on vehicle manufacturer recommendations regarding tread depth or overall diameter measurements a new tire may need to be shaved. Typically we see about 30% difference in tread depth as the starting point to shave tires for proper tread depth on replacement tires.

If you have tires that are about 30% worn it may benefit to buy just one matching tire and have it shaved to the correct tread depth by Tire Rack prior to shipping. Give the Tire Rack an extra day to shave the tire and we'll ship it directly to you or your installer. If the tire is more than half worn it may be beneficial to replace all four tires for your vehicle with new tires."

https://blog.tirerack.com/blog/chad...ng-to-match-tires-on-all-wheel-drive-vehicles
 

Bob Heine

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 24, 2009
Messages
10,703
Location
Boca Raton, Florida
Tire store did the exact same thing to me. Said the screw was an inch from the sidewall (looked like more to me but you know how we have trouble measuring inches). Because I only brought in the wheel and tire, it only cost me one tire. Stupid thing is I have a plug kit and mini-compressor in each of my cars. I was just lazy and figured a $20 patch would be no big deal. Had to wash the tire before putting it in the Corvette to take to the tire store.

My '87 Corvette takes 255/50R16 tires and one tire got messed up. One of the clip-on weights they used caused the bead to open ever so slightly when I parked the car with that weight at the bottom. Didn't realize how low it was and as I turned from the driveway to the road the tire came off the rim. Took the wheel off and went to the place that installed the tires in 1992. Goodyear discontinued the tire so I bought four cheap Sumitomo tires (dated November 2007). Now it appears only BF Goodrich makes a street tire in that size and by the time I have them mounted and balanced it's $750. Checked around and discovered I can buy 18" rims and tires ready to put on the car for $250 more. I would have a much bigger selection of tires in the future.
 

Jayman17

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2017
Messages
3,797
Location
Seattle, Wa
Quote: The crowd on here is a pretty intense one to try to impress. Not an easy deal. Good thing I don't much care about all that ...... or at least only a little bit :headscrat

Count me as impressed with those meals you make for your co-workers :drool:


Quote: Once her "favorite mechanic" has his new shop there will be an end to other peoples greasy hands all over my machinery ......

This just sounds kinda wrong to me....:bounce:

Jay
 
Last edited:
OP
J

jblnut

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jan 17, 2015
Messages
6,988
Location
In the Middle of MN
Yeah, but it's a corporate policy everywhere. They have no say in the matter.

I agree with you though, that is a safe and fine tire unless you really need an alignment and happen to burn that outer tread off way too prematurely. Still doubt it would do more than slowly leak down :dunno:
One car has a blowout because of sometime someone probably did incorrectly in the first place and now there is a corporate policy saying NO MORE !! I guess that's now it works.

Apparently there are people who can't figure out how to install a plug.:lol_hitti

When you do get a separation which may have been caused by air getting between the plies you replace the tire. It does not cause an accident. And the kids like a little thump thump.
Oh we've had plenty tires around here get "pregnant" and they get replaced as soon as possible or stay out of service until they can be replaced. That typically only happens to us on OLD tires on machinery that doesn't get used much.

Kiddos like going around corners fast, I can not imagine what a pregnant tire would make them do lol.

BTW-
they can shave down a tire so it matches the wear on the other three.
So you don't have to buy a "set"


"What happens if a tire blows out or is not repairable due to a road hazard? Depending on vehicle manufacturer recommendations regarding tread depth or overall diameter measurements a new tire may need to be shaved. Typically we see about 30% difference in tread depth as the starting point to shave tires for proper tread depth on replacement tires.

If you have tires that are about 30% worn it may benefit to buy just one matching tire and have it shaved to the correct tread depth by Tire Rack prior to shipping. Give the Tire Rack an extra day to shave the tire and we'll ship it directly to you or your installer. If the tire is more than half worn it may be beneficial to replace all four tires for your vehicle with new tires."

https://blog.tirerack.com/blog/chad...ng-to-match-tires-on-all-wheel-drive-vehicles
This makes sense but makes me giggle ....

I have to buy a brand new tire and wear it down to match. Never have I heard of something so silly.
"Buy a new tire and we'll wear it down to match your others"
"Okay, will I be paying 50% of the price of the new one since it's already half worn down?"
"Nope, we will be charging you to wear it down!!"
"You're kidding ....."


Tire store did the exact same thing to me. Said the screw was an inch from the sidewall (looked like more to me but you know how we have trouble measuring inches). Because I only brought in the wheel and tire, it only cost me one tire. Stupid thing is I have a plug kit and mini-compressor in each of my cars. I was just lazy and figured a $20 patch would be no big deal. Had to wash the tire before putting it in the Corvette to take to the tire store.

My '87 Corvette takes 255/50R16 tires and one tire got messed up. One of the clip-on weights they used caused the bead to open ever so slightly when I parked the car with that weight at the bottom. Didn't realize how low it was and as I turned from the driveway to the road the tire came off the rim. Took the wheel off and went to the place that installed the tires in 1992. Goodyear discontinued the tire so I bought four cheap Sumitomo tires (dated November 2007). Now it appears only BF Goodrich makes a street tire in that size and by the time I have them mounted and balanced it's $750. Checked around and discovered I can buy 18" rims and tires ready to put on the car for $250 more. I would have a much bigger selection of tires in the future.
Bob everyone likes bigger wheels. I'd go bigger than 18's You'd blend right in with some 22's on that Vette :lol_hitti

The crowd on here is a pretty intense one to try to impress. Not an easy deal. Good thing I don't much care about all that ...... or at least only a little bit :headscrat

Count me as impressed with those meals you make for your co-workers :drool:


Once her "favorite mechanic" has his new shop there will be an end to other peoples greasy hands all over my machinery ......

This just sounds kinda wrong to me....:bounce:

Jay
Bah the meals are nothing crazy. Just some hot iron and meat mostly. Add a little bacon grease and don't burn anything and you can easily do anything I do.

Reading it again I agree. Hmmm.
 
OP
J

jblnut

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jan 17, 2015
Messages
6,988
Location
In the Middle of MN
How's the chicky nuggy barn doing on a brisk morning such as this?
It's not that cold yet. It's -20F with a windchill of -43F. Last winter there were days where this would have felt like a heat wave. You're quite a bit farther South than me so I'm sure it's in the mid 40's there :lol_hitti

The barn sure puts on a steam show when the fans turn on !!
49529696083_615d519d51_z.jpg

Inside the barn they are as happy as can be. I'd love to see what the free range, gotta be outside because being in a barn isn't good, grass fed, bug eating chicken lovers would say to them being outside in -20F weather. These poor little chickens would be popsicles !!
49530197601_4fbc740386_z.jpg

As the temperature changes I adjust the ventilation accordingly. When it gets really cold I turn off a few fans and increase the runtime of the remaining fans. This creates a less voluminous draft into the barn so the air has longer to warm up before it gets down to the level the chickens are at. The goal is for the vents to be open right around 2" when it's 10F or below.
49530425987_710113f4cb_z.jpg

Part of the ventilation adjustment is increasing the static pressure so the air rushes into the barn faster and has more time to warm up. You can see the cold air coming in and how quickly it's warmed up. It never gets more than a few feet off the top of the ceiling before it's tempered. The chickens tell us what to do as well. If they're sitting down and huddling under the heaters I need to adjust it so it stays warmer, if they're along the walls and not under the heaters it's too warm. They should be spread out nicely like they are in the first picture. I adjust all these things morning and evening to keep them nice and happy. After all, they're the reason the barn is here so may as well keep them happy. Plus, I'd think happy chickens taste better than grumpy ones :lol_hitti
49529695998_0135635e6f_z.jpg
 
OP
J

jblnut

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jan 17, 2015
Messages
6,988
Location
In the Middle of MN
I said I'd keep y'all updated on the costs of the 2049 Shop so here goes ....

Materials thus far ....
Building the building with garage doors and everything on the exterior - $48,772.42
Finishing the inside with insulating, steel, trim and the whole works - $22,913.93
Building the office/bathroom area with steel outside, insulation and a floor upstairs - $3,287.85
Concrete floor, poured and floated with a few drains to work around - $16,525
In floor heat labor and materials (foam is in the inside shop materials number) - $12,000

Labor thus far ....
Building the building with garage doors and everything on the exterior - $10,600
Finishing the inside with insulating, steel, trim and the whole works - $5,200
Building the office/bathroom area with steel outside, insulation and a floor upstairs - $2,400

Total so far with no electrical bid back yet - $121,699.20

I'm figuring AT LEAST $5-7,000 for electrical. We will be doing all the underground work when we do the drains and such so that will save some cost. I don't plan to go crazy with power outlets and such just yet as I am not 100% sure where the major use areas will be. No need to spend money somewhere it'll never be used. We want a few things for sure to get going by the doors and in the back of the shop and will actively add on as needed. Seems like a sound plan for now at least.

All that above being said I'd be insanely happy to do this for $140,000 when it comes to it. There will be more cost with finishing the office/bathroom and some concrete outside and drainage and other things but I think it's realistic. We shall see.
 
Last edited:

Bob Heine

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 24, 2009
Messages
10,703
Location
Boca Raton, Florida
Bob everyone likes bigger wheels. I'd go bigger than 18's You'd blend right in with some 22's on that Vette :lol_hitti
Mike, sounds like a plan. I'm thinking something subtle, like this:
attachment.php


Or maybe something that would appeal to my great-grandchildren:
attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • Donk Corvette 1.jpg
    Donk Corvette 1.jpg
    90.6 KB · Views: 1,553
  • Donk Corvette 2.jpg
    Donk Corvette 2.jpg
    56.3 KB · Views: 1,543
OP
J

jblnut

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jan 17, 2015
Messages
6,988
Location
In the Middle of MN
Mike, sounds like a plan. I'm thinking something subtle, like this:

Or maybe something that would appeal to my great-grandchildren:
:lol_hitti:lol_hitti:lol_hitti:lol_hitti:lol_hitti

Okay so there is truly nothing "subtle" about 22's or 90's on a Vette :lol_hitti

Throw some nice 18/19's off a C6 on there. I bet that would actually look pretty decent. Like this !!!
47987964d1465091321-corvette-c4-1987-with-c6-wheels-vet-parade-pic.jpg
 

jeepxj

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
17,837
12k for infloor heat? how on earth.

edit: be sure to do a loop around the garage door inside and outside. keep the ice/drift off the door jam. now your quote is 15k. sorry.
 
OP
J

jblnut

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jan 17, 2015
Messages
6,988
Location
In the Middle of MN
12k for infloor heat? how on earth.

edit: be sure to do a loop around the garage door inside and outside. keep the ice/drift off the door jam. now your quote is 15k. sorry.
Ok well it seems you think that the estimate is either way high or really low. The garage doors are going to be on the East side so I really do not anticipate any freezing issues with the doors. That being said, they were going to space the pipes a lot closer for a few runs right inside the garage doors.


It's a 54x72 building so 3,888 square feet. Even with foam it's under $4/sq ft for all materials and labor. I know in floor heat is the most expensive upfront cost to heat anything but once you've been in a shop or really in an anything with it you'll hand over dump trucks of money to have it for yourself.
 

Sifan

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2018
Messages
582
Location
Southern Illinois
How many chicks have you run through the barn so far?


I'll help spend some of your money … however many hangers you're using on your garage doors, double it. Five years later, you will thank me. Nothing like a smooth rolling garage door.
 
OP
J

jblnut

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jan 17, 2015
Messages
6,988
Location
In the Middle of MN
How many chicks have you run through the barn so far?


I'll help spend some of your money … however many hangers you're using on your garage doors, double it. Five years later, you will thank me. Nothing like a smooth rolling garage door.
I'd have to add it up but I think over a half million chickens so far !!!

The hinges on the doors themselves or the braces from the track to the ceiling ?
 

Sifan

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2018
Messages
582
Location
Southern Illinois
Both! Lot of weight hanging there day after day, better to spread it out as much as you can. Easier to do it while building than from the top of a ladder while trying to line everything up and hold on :)
 

jeepxj

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
17,837
Ok well it seems you think that the estimate is either way high or really low. The garage doors are going to be on the East side so I really do not anticipate any freezing issues with the doors. That being said, they were going to space the pipes a lot closer for a few runs right inside the garage doors.


It's a 54x72 building so 3,888 square feet. Even with foam it's under $4/sq ft for all materials and labor. I know in floor heat is the most expensive upfront cost to heat anything but once you've been in a shop or really in an anything with it you'll hand over dump trucks of money to have it for yourself.

ohhh you got foam underlay in that cost too? that makes more sense. I was thinking it was just your line, manifold and install cost.

They space them closer around the edge of the building for heat loss. not actual heating heating. put the loop just outside the door as well. does the wind not blow in your part of MN?

really good example of them working.

and yes; you'll hand over buckets of money for floor heat. buy once, cry once.
 

red

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 20, 2009
Messages
720
Location
Hudson Valley, NY
ohhh you got foam underlay in that cost too? that makes more sense. I was thinking it was just your line, manifold and install cost.

They space them closer around the edge of the building for heat loss. not actual heating heating. put the loop just outside the door as well. does the wind not blow in your part of MN?

really good example of them working.

and yes; you'll hand over buckets of money for floor heat. buy once, cry once.

Not sure about the heat, but ya definitely need one of those front end loader poop scoopers
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

mmavet

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 9, 2016
Messages
130
Location
IOWA USA
When u say poured and floated, are u saying poured and trowel finish? Is that a 6" floor with 1/2" rebar 3'O/C?



I said I'd keep y'all updated on the costs of the 2049 Shop so here goes ....

Materials thus far ....
Building the building with garage doors and everything on the exterior - $48,772.42
Finishing the inside with insulating, steel, trim and the whole works - $22,913.93
Building the office/bathroom area with steel outside, insulation and a floor upstairs - $3,287.85
Concrete floor, poured and floated with a few drains to work around - $16,525
In floor heat labor and materials (foam is in the inside shop materials number) - $12,000
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,006
Location
Pacific Northwest
JBL: That should be some build and hopefully it will house all your cool rigs and stuff. I've seen some interesting ways to put some heavy duty hooks in/under the floor so the user has a way to bend bent frames or straighten things and hope yours works for you.

Hope you remember it's Valentine's day so maybe remember to pick up mama bear some flowers or candy or take her out for a good meal if your weather will let you.

I heard you are in the middle of a deep freeze again so STAY WARM and best of luck with that.

Cheers!!
 

lis2323

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 25, 2016
Messages
3,234
JBL Here’s a pic of the in floor anchor points outside my farm shop door. It has two sizes of square tube receivers in addition to provision for hooks. Portable tables, vises, benders etc can be attached.

Four similar ones are within the shop.





b23cf2df435edf221da061c80921f8f8.png
 

Attachments

  • b23cf2df435edf221da061c80921f8f8.png
    b23cf2df435edf221da061c80921f8f8.png
    4.5 MB · Views: 1
OP
J

jblnut

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jan 17, 2015
Messages
6,988
Location
In the Middle of MN
Both! Lot of weight hanging there day after day, better to spread it out as much as you can. Easier to do it while building than from the top of a ladder while trying to line everything up and hold on :)
Not a bad idea. The garage doors will be installed by Heartland Door out of St. Joseph, MN. They've done a few doors for us before and do fantastic work. A 26'x16' overhead is a rather pricey and quite heavy door so I think it's best to let them do it I guess ....

ohhh you got foam underlay in that cost too? that makes more sense. I was thinking it was just your line, manifold and install cost.

They space them closer around the edge of the building for heat loss. not actual heating heating. put the loop just outside the door as well. does the wind not blow in your part of MN?

really good example of them working.

and yes; you'll hand over buckets of money for floor heat. buy once, cry once.
The foam, pipes, fittings, boiler, manifold, glycol, install and everything else that goes with it to make it work are all right at $15,000. Foam is coming from the lumber yard and is right around $27 per 2" sheet and is the under concrete/weight rated stuff. Don't remember the type/kind/name but it's the right stuff.

Boy we'd have the barn cleaned out in about 10 minutes with a payloader !! I wonder if they put heat in the entire barn or if they just put it under the doors. I have no idea why they'd put it in the whole barn. That'd cause more issues than it'd do good having a warm floor under the bedpack .....

Yes, the wind blows but the East sides of all our buildings never have snow up against them so I don't think that'll be an issue. I'll bring it up to the building planning committee and see what comes of it. I don't think it's a bad idea and am not arguing that it might be nice but I purely see heat and $$$$$ leaving by doing that. Maybe not that much but I do not know yet. That's why I post this stuff up and ask questions. I appreciate the feedback and ideas !!!

Not sure about the heat, but ya definitely need one of those front end loader poop scoopers
Oh yeah I agree !!! That would be a BEAST to have !!!

When u say poured and floated, are u saying poured and trowel finish? Is that a 6" floor with 1/2" rebar 3'O/C?

"Concrete floor, poured and floated with a few drains to work around - $16,525"
We will be getting the sand in and getting it close to grade and the builder will do the rest of the grading to get it right where he wants it.

We talked with the infloor heat guys and the concrete guys and they both said they do most infloor heated slabs with fiber in the concrete and no rebar. They are both worried about the rebar and plastic pipes causing issues with each other during the install and think it's best to just do fiber. It'll be heated all the time and will crack no matter how well we brace it so whatever they think it best is fine with me.

6" of concrete, fiber in it, poured and finished with a nice trowel finish.

JBL: That should be some build and hopefully it will house all your cool rigs and stuff. I've seen some interesting ways to put some heavy duty hooks in/under the floor so the user has a way to bend bent frames or straighten things and hope yours works for you.

Hope you remember it's Valentine's day so maybe remember to pick up mama bear some flowers or candy or take her out for a good meal if your weather will let you.

I heard you are in the middle of a deep freeze again so STAY WARM and best of luck with that.

Cheers!!
So far the only thing that I know that will be in the shop are a beer/bacon fridge and the 7400 tractor and grinder mixer. And welder and tools of course. I'm planning to use it as a shop and not a heated storage building. Or at least that's the plan.

We're going to a water park with some friends this weekend so instead of Mama Bear and I hanging out we'll be wrangling the kiddos at a hotel and water park. Should be a good time lol.

I have plans to put something in the floor in a few places but am not quite sure how many or what type for sure for sure yet.

JBL Here’s a pic of the in floor anchor points outside my farm shop door. It has two sizes of square tube receivers in addition to provision for hooks. Portable tables, vises, benders etc can be attached.

Four similar ones are within the shop.
That looks amazing !! Any chance you have some pictures of the bracing you put in the floor to support them and keep them from pulling out ??

They look amazing and I'd love to see more of them !!!
 

jeepxj

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
17,837
if ya have an extra manifold run then do the door stuff on their own run. then only enable when/if its an issue.
 

cvairwerks

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2016
Messages
7,205
Location
Within hearing distance of Texas Motor Speedway
JBL: We've got tie downs in the hangar floor for running our jets at max power. Because we pull both in both horizontal and vertical planes, the tie down is a welded whiffletree that is set at an angle thru the concrete and into a pit. For yours, just do a vertical whiffletree down into a hole. IE. drill a 24" hole a foot or two deeper than the base of the slab and set the tree down in there and fill with concrete as the slab is pored.

BTW... I think our tie owns are rated for something like 100,000 lb loads and our slabs are around 18" thick...
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,006
Location
Pacific Northwest
JBL: did I read that you are headed (or just came back) to a water park? aren't you in the middle of a DEEP FREEZE? since I think you have the biggest indoor mall in the world is the water park inside or did you fly the family to California?

hope you are having fun
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,006
Location
Pacific Northwest
We have a grey wolf lodge about 90 minutes from us that our kids take our grandkids too that was built after our kids were grown and gone. From the pics I’d prefer outdoors water parks but even getting in those now knowing how many kids (and adults) pee in them has me not running to go to them either. The long long water slides built in the late 60’s with water or dry with potatoe sacks would be more my style.
 
OP
J

jblnut

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jan 17, 2015
Messages
6,988
Location
In the Middle of MN
if ya have an extra manifold run then do the door stuff on their own run. then only enable when/if its an issue.
That's not a bad idea at all .... I'd imagine the door will be over the concrete from the shop floor so there should be some heat transfer to the area under the door no matter what I'd think :dunno:

It's expensive but a warm shop sure is nice!
Couldn't agree more with both of those :beer:

JBL: We've got tie downs in the hangar floor for running our jets at max power. Because we pull both in both horizontal and vertical planes, the tie down is a welded whiffletree that is set at an angle thru the concrete and into a pit. For yours, just do a vertical whiffletree down into a hole. IE. drill a 24" hole a foot or two deeper than the base of the slab and set the tree down in there and fill with concrete as the slab is poured.

BTW... I think our tie owns are rated for something like 100,000 lb loads and our slabs are around 18" thick...
We were sort of thinking of something similar to what you're describing for at least 2 of the hold downs. The idea would be to be able to use them as an anchor point to jack against something without pulling the floor up. We thought that taking a couple good scoops of dirt out with the excavator and filling with rebar and concrete would do pretty good already.

18" concrete floors ?!?!? Yikes !!

JBL: Did I read that you are headed (or just came back) to a water park? Aren't you in the middle of a DEEP FREEZE? since I think you have the biggest indoor mall in the world is the water park inside or did you fly the family to California?

Hope you are having fun
We were at the park when you posted. The temps aren't a big deal when it's all inside :bounce:

Drives: Probably a place like Great Wolf Lodge. Indoor waterpark for the kids, a couple of planned non water activities and food along with summer camp style hotel rooms.
Similar I'd imagine. It was the Comfort Inn Rapid River Lodge in Baxter, MN.

We have a grey wolf lodge about 90 minutes from us that our kids take our grandkids too that was built after our kids were grown and gone. From the pics I’d prefer outdoors water parks but even getting in those now knowing how many kids (and adults) pee in them has me not running to go to them either. The long long water slides built in the late 60’s with water or dry with potato sacks would be more my style.
I know I saw a few kids standing still and let out a little "I just pee'd" shiver more than once so yeah I agree on that :puke:
 
OP
J

jblnut

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jan 17, 2015
Messages
6,988
Location
In the Middle of MN
I added a few cameras to a previous install and saw that I was planning for the future when I was up there last time. I remember looking around for something to plug the hole with at the same time my headlamp died. Two problems led to a solution for one of the problems at least :bounce:
49549978593_e7cbba19af_z.jpg

We had some time to kill Saturday morning before the waterpark opened so the girls played on their tablets and Leo tried ever so carefully not to get too close to them while watching.
49549978098_8891569802_z.jpg

They ganged up on him and took him by surprise :lol_hitti
49550480546_00e4e60160_z.jpg

It wasn't an overly large waterpark but it was a good time nonetheless. I mostly hung out in the kiddy area with our 5yr old and 2yr old and we had as good of a time as you can have in 18" of water :thumbup:
49550480566_7c7a8eacf8_z.jpg

They must have had fun because they sure fell asleep fast on the way home !!!
49550480391_34fb696f1f_z.jpg
 

realvc

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2011
Messages
394
Location
Lake Norrell, AR
Thanks for the great family pics.
You're a very blessed man. The children Out on Quaker Rd. always look like they have a good time.
You and your wife are showing the rest of us how to do the family thing the right way.
I admire your work ethic and your family time with your wife and the children too.
It takes a team like you and your wife that are willing to do what ever it takes to make a great home and family life like you have.

Vince
 

XJSuperman

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2018
Messages
3,087
Location
Central Iowa
Looks like the waterpark went well. As for the heated floors, when I was demoing combines out west we met a guy in Montana that had a massive setup. He did 25,000 acres (yes 25 thousand), and the farmyard matched. One building was so large he could put 2 semis with trailers nose to tail across the short side of the building. It had heated floors and 50 foot heated concrete aprons around the entire building. No snowplowing around the building for him! Just the gravel yard.

I know that is beyond your needs, but a heated apron outside the main door is a nice touch, and you can powerwash something in the winter and not worry about an ice rink forming outside the door.
 

cvairwerks

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2016
Messages
7,205
Location
Within hearing distance of Texas Motor Speedway
A couple of scoops would work, but remember that for an upward pull, you want the bottom of the hole to flare outward. For side pull, you want near vertical sides for the flat plate resistance. Remember, they are just deadman encased in concrete.

18" is the thin stuff around here. We do have some places that are more like 18 feet....Of course we've got some 4000 and 5000 ton presses sitting there...
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,006
Location
Pacific Northwest
JBL: sounds like fun at the waterpark. heated floors might keep you from working your day job and make you a full time farmer?

STAY WARM

Lis: in case you didn't see JBL's request he asked if you might have more pictures of your floor anchors prior to the cement being poured?
 

davo727

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
1,660
Because I know you love tractors and a guy can never have too many tractors ima hijack 2 tractor pics for you of my Valentines day present to myself. A 1997 Massey 283, 89hp gross. :lol_hitti :beer:
 

Attachments

  • 20200214_081155.jpg
    20200214_081155.jpg
    147.4 KB · Views: 79
  • 20200213_180737.jpg
    20200213_180737.jpg
    150.2 KB · Views: 87
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom