Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.
- Thread starter Hiball
- Start date
![20151204_142936[1].jpg](/forum/data/attachments/394/394942-eee448ca1bde15e7457db4c3b6fd2966.jpg)
Roberts210
Well-known member
Kudos to Hiball for all the work he's done in answering people's questions about these jacks.
A short history: In 1987 I bought a Milwaukee 2 ton floor jack at a garage sale for $10. It was the best $10 I ever spent. That jack has never failed me, and I've used it a lot over the years on many different vehicles.
But I was helping my buddy restore his dad's Studebaker truck, and for some reason I've forgotten he brought his P.O.S. Chinese aluminum "racing" jack over to my place and left it... for 2 years. So one day I've got my Milwaukee jack under my car, and I needed another jack so I pulled his shiny, new, aluminum jack out, rolled it under my car, and it went kaput. My buddy was upset--he thought he had a great jack. So I promised him I'd buy an old, well-made jack and rebuild it for him.
So I came across a green '70's era, Craftsman 328-12001 jack today for $15. And I picked it up for him. I've broken it down into the major components--I removed the handle, removed the wheels and the return spring, and finally pulled the pump out. But the problem this jack has is that before I disassembled it, the handle could not be rotated CW or CCW. And the problem was not in the handle, but in the valve body/pump. Any ideas what the problem is before I try to pull it apart?
A short history: In 1987 I bought a Milwaukee 2 ton floor jack at a garage sale for $10. It was the best $10 I ever spent. That jack has never failed me, and I've used it a lot over the years on many different vehicles.
But I was helping my buddy restore his dad's Studebaker truck, and for some reason I've forgotten he brought his P.O.S. Chinese aluminum "racing" jack over to my place and left it... for 2 years. So one day I've got my Milwaukee jack under my car, and I needed another jack so I pulled his shiny, new, aluminum jack out, rolled it under my car, and it went kaput. My buddy was upset--he thought he had a great jack. So I promised him I'd buy an old, well-made jack and rebuild it for him.
So I came across a green '70's era, Craftsman 328-12001 jack today for $15. And I picked it up for him. I've broken it down into the major components--I removed the handle, removed the wheels and the return spring, and finally pulled the pump out. But the problem this jack has is that before I disassembled it, the handle could not be rotated CW or CCW. And the problem was not in the handle, but in the valve body/pump. Any ideas what the problem is before I try to pull it apart?
Roberts210
Well-known member
I just went out and removed the "star" thingy by unscrewing it from the valve body. It has a needle valve and not a ball. But is it supposed to move downward and upward as the star is turned? The star rotates but the needle valve doesn't move up or down. I don't understand how the needle is supposed to seat if it doesn't move up and down.
Last edited:
More than likely the release stem is seized from lack of use, I would just put the unit in a vise and attempt to work it back and forth.
I'll see if I can find you a breakdown for the 4 valve jacks, the picture is fuzzy, but I can definitely tell stuff is out of order and mixed up. The little flat pieces with a small stem all mate to a spring.
Thank you Hiball,
I also have a Michelin-735 I plan on opening up and replacing the u-cup and piston rings. I will be giving you a call once I have the measurements. I won't start that project until after the holidays, but I will post some pictures.
I also have a Michelin-735 I plan on opening up and replacing the u-cup and piston rings. I will be giving you a call once I have the measurements. I won't start that project until after the holidays, but I will post some pictures.
I just went out and removed the "star" thingy by unscrewing it from the valve body. It has a needle valve and not a ball. But is it supposed to move downward and upward as the star is turned? The star rotates but the needle valve doesn't move up or down. I don't understand how the needle is supposed to seat if it doesn't move up and down.
The square piece where the needle threads into the release mechanism needs to be stationary, thus the square washer in the hole. If you hold square piece, rotate the star wheel, the needle valve with move up and down.
Roberts210
Well-known member
Ok, I figured it out. The previous owner had simply jammed torqued the handle so tightly the needle was stuck. I freed it up and now the needle does move up and down when the star is turned. THIS IS A GREAT PLACE!!
Ok, I figured it out. The previous owner had simply jammed torqued the handle so tightly the needle was stuck. I freed it up and now the needle does move up and down when the star is turned. THIS IS A GREAT PLACE!!
That was gong to be my next suggestion, it looked drawn up in that earlier pic.
csp
Well-known member
Sure wish this kind of info was still out there in the thread for Snap-On jacks......
csp
Well-known member
I was referring to this thread.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40489
Just wishing that specific model info was still in circulation is all.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40489
Just wishing that specific model info was still in circulation is all.
Last edited:
Oh.. I Knew what you where referencing, with that said, it's a full time job keeping up with General questions and with my limited keyboard time due to the little one/work/farm, I feel I have done a Damn good job attempting to keep up with the repeated questions/issues. Let me Reinterate.. Snap on doesn't make any of there jacks, in regards to Snap on models, YA642 or 700's can be easily cross referenced over to Walker/Lincoln 632/642/652 models, they share the same components outside of some small cosmetics. If you need to see a Red Jack versus Blue, Jeeper has a Ya642 thread that can hopefully satisfy your needs. In regards to that specific thread, it was a Walker 93630/32 that was one of earliest Walker models marketed by Snap On.
Last edited:
csp
Well-known member
Thanks, I appreciate the directions to look towards. I knew that Snappy jacks (and lots of other Snappy stuff) were made by others.
Roberts210
Well-known member
Ditto that! It is PRICELESS to find a forum member like Hiball--willing to share his knowledge on a subject in which most are neophytes, and taking the time to reply to the endless questions. This is, after all, the 41st page of this Thread. So thanks Hiball. You are appreciated. To give some perspective, last summer I had the Milwaukee jack that I wrote about in an above post--I had it rebuilt at a hydraulic shop. Cost me $165 (but it needed one new wheel). I know now I could have done it for a lot less had I had found this place sooner.
JohnnyMac62
Member
Hello Everyone. This is my first posting. For the last couple of weeks I have been reading these threads on floor jacks trying to learn a few things before asking questions.
To Hiball. Thank you for everything that you contribute to these threads as I know it is probably very time consuming. It is nice to see someone with your knowledge who is willing to share it with others. Congratulations on the addition to your family. I have two of my own who I thought were born yesterday but are now 22 and 25 years old. Enjoy the ride, it goes quick.
As for floor jacks, I have three. The first is a 2-1/4 ton Wilmar GJ1 that I purchased new in 1990. I have the original owner's manual for it. The second is a Strongarm 966HO 3.5 ton. The third I am trying to identify as it only has part of a label and a back, not top, screw that I have not seen in any of the other postings. I am trying to include some pictures to see if someone could identify this jack. According to the label it is made in Japan. It is model PR...
I have taken it apart with the pump still in the frame and replaced a couple of o-rings even if they didn't need it. I have a box of metric and standard o-rings so was able to find two that fit. Sorry for being so long winded. John
To Hiball. Thank you for everything that you contribute to these threads as I know it is probably very time consuming. It is nice to see someone with your knowledge who is willing to share it with others. Congratulations on the addition to your family. I have two of my own who I thought were born yesterday but are now 22 and 25 years old. Enjoy the ride, it goes quick.
As for floor jacks, I have three. The first is a 2-1/4 ton Wilmar GJ1 that I purchased new in 1990. I have the original owner's manual for it. The second is a Strongarm 966HO 3.5 ton. The third I am trying to identify as it only has part of a label and a back, not top, screw that I have not seen in any of the other postings. I am trying to include some pictures to see if someone could identify this jack. According to the label it is made in Japan. It is model PR...
I have taken it apart with the pump still in the frame and replaced a couple of o-rings even if they didn't need it. I have a box of metric and standard o-rings so was able to find two that fit. Sorry for being so long winded. John
JohnnyMac62
Member
JohnnyMac62
Member
JohnnyMac62
Member
JohnnyMac62
Member
JohnnyMac, Thanks for adding pictures of your Jack. I have seen similar jacks here in the states, I may have a breakdown of the Jack in the shop as I recall copying one from customer umpteen years ago. It is different than your typical Import, I believe it to be Yasui based from Japan. Outside of the valve location, it also utilizes a ucup on Pump Piston, although I don't remember that from the previous rebuild (could be me though). I'm a big fan of the Yasui jacks, they seem to hold up very well in the rod finish department, carry wipers on both the pump and Main ram. It appears to be in good shape, it may require some individual parts sourcing, but as long as everything is on the up and up Internally, I would definitely freshen it up.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing.
Last edited:
BlackKnight2538
Member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2015
- Messages
- 7
Roberts210
Well-known member
Hiball, do you think I can break that big nut on the end of the cylinder loose with my Milwaukee 1/2" impact wrench? Supposedly the wrench will torque to 300 ft. lbs. I've got a 55mm impact socket that will fit the nut.
Last edited:
Hiball, do you think I can break that big nut on the end of the cylinder loose with my Milwaukee 1/2" impact wrench? Supposedly the wrench will torque to 300 ft. lbs. I've got a 55mm impact socket that will fit the nut.
Only 1 way to find out..
I believe 300ft lbs should handle the tank nut, but Leary of impact torque numbers.
Last edited:
Roberts210
Well-known member
Yeah, I'm not sure it puts out 300 ft lbs either, but it is a Milwaukee and I've used it before to crank on tough nuts. And thanks for the tip to Hydraulic Parts Supply. They asked me how I found them, and they knew immediately who had referred me when I mentioned Garage Journal.
BlackKnight2538
Member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2015
- Messages
- 7
Update:12 hours later it held. Didn't move a millimeter! Thanks Again to all.Hi FIVE to Hiball for your help. Got the new piston seal u-cup and cleaned everything real good. Assembled the jack, went through bleed procedures. Appears to work great. Put a real load on it today and will see if it holds or leaks. But so far so good! Thanks Again!!
Merry Christmas also
Do you have that seal kit part number/cost? My 90145 jack is exhibiting the exact same behavior.
HCRCnow
Well-known member
JohnnyMac62
Member
JohnnyMac62
Member
JohnnyMac62
Member
Roberts210
Well-known member
Tried this morning to break loose the big nut on the end of the cylinder using my Milwaukee 1/2" impact wrench and a 55 mm socket and 1/2 to 3/4 drive adaptor.
After 5 seconds it started to move. Thanks Hiball!
After 5 seconds it started to move. Thanks Hiball!
First post hello all, Thanks to Hiball I was able to rebuild my jack last night. I didn't take any pictures during the process but it cost me 80 cents for the rubber parts. I went to a local hydraulic shop in Forest Park,Ga near my house. I brought my seals and we matched them up. The process was pretty painless and it works great now (it was leaking). I have had the jack for about 10-15 years. The one I rebuilt was the blue one in the first picture. The red one I picked up on craigslist today for $25 its going to get the same treatment. The main problem with that one is the casters are missing all the ball bearings? I didn't read all 43 pages of this thread so I hope this question hasn't been answered already. Has anyone replaced these before and how do you decide what size to use and a source? or does anyone have a set they want to get rid of? Thanks again in advance
Attachments
1/4" is a common size in regards to the swivel casters, any quality hardware store should have them, I'll try and verify next time I'm at the shop.
Just for Clarification, I'm referencing the bearing size, Assuming you where wanting to rebuild the current set if the races where in good enough shape.
Last edited:
Roberts210
Well-known member
Hiball, I pulled the main ram out of the cylinder and the seal at the end was completely broken apart and degraded. Is this the way the new seal goes back on?
Hiball, I pulled the main ram out of the cylinder and the seal at the end was completely broken apart and degraded. Is this the way the new seal goes back on?
Nope, that is backwards. The flat part mates to the guide on the ram, the flared portion always goes towards the pressure, in this case you have a loaded ucup, so the U isn't as visible due to having a energizer installed.
Roberts210
Well-known member
And I hope Hydraulic Parts Supply sent me extra o-rings, cause I don't know where all these go! Although one of the larger o-rings is the old one that sealed the big nut into the reservoir. But all the small ones are new.
Roberts210
Well-known member
Thanks Hiball. You are a life saver... or in this case a jack-saver!