No, cherry picker/long jacks are only "single speed" units.. Parts are available, generally you can replace seals and still be money ahead versus buying a new unit, if you have hard part issues, it gets less worth it from a monetary standpoint.
Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.
- Thread starter Hiball
- Start date
No, cherry picker/long jacks are only "single speed" units.. Parts are available, generally you can replace seals and still be money ahead versus buying a new unit, if you have hard part issues, it gets less worth it from a monetary standpoint.
Hi gang,
Yet another overseas jack that needs help. This one leaks out around the pump piston. The O ring is shot and if there was a backing ring, it's gone. The outer seal is a cup.
No labels have survived.................Any idea of brand and age?
Hiball, can it be saved?
Thanks
Russ
http://s1280.beta.photobucket.com/user/budd302/media/WP_20130219_004_zps7f7cfcdc.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2
Yet another overseas jack that needs help. This one leaks out around the pump piston. The O ring is shot and if there was a backing ring, it's gone. The outer seal is a cup.
No labels have survived.................Any idea of brand and age?
Hiball, can it be saved?
Thanks
Russ
http://s1280.beta.photobucket.com/user/budd302/media/WP_20130219_004_zps7f7cfcdc.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Harbor Freight sells an "assortment" kit of metric O rings for less than $10.
I do keep alot of the larger Cross Section Orings in Stock, The HF/Store Brand kits are Generic in regards to Sizing. Send me a PM with the Size...
old_orange
Member
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- Mar 15, 2013
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Hi,
I jack my car up to change every fluid neurotically, yet I neglect the jack's oil for 20 years. I am an idiot. jack sprung a leak. Using the Bars sweller oil made no difference. So here I am.. The leak is coming from the "pump" as you call it in the DIY above. Pours out of it as I'm jacking. Nowhere else. Looking at your DIY it appears as if I may be able to replace the pump o-rings without tearing the whole piston apart?
Please advise.
I jack my car up to change every fluid neurotically, yet I neglect the jack's oil for 20 years. I am an idiot. jack sprung a leak. Using the Bars sweller oil made no difference. So here I am.. The leak is coming from the "pump" as you call it in the DIY above. Pours out of it as I'm jacking. Nowhere else. Looking at your DIY it appears as if I may be able to replace the pump o-rings without tearing the whole piston apart?
Please advise.
kawookie64
Member
Hello Garage Journal members, I,m new to the forum (great stuff,btw) and just wanted to thank hi- ball for the tutorial. I know this is an older post but does anyone know the make or model of the jack in the pics? I have the exact same one and I'm looking for parts.
Jeeper
Well-known member
The jack in the original post is/was sold under a lot of different brands from harbor freight to sears. Usually when you need a seal its best to pay the measurements of the seal and Hibal might be able to get it or try a local hydraulic shop.
If you have a broken hard part then it might be a different process such as calling the original vendor to someone on the board having it.
Jeeper
Well-known member
You should probably post a pic of your jack along with who made it. If its the pump, sounds like new seals which in a lot cases can be solved with an oring kit from HF or northern tool.
You will at Min.. Remove the Handle, Generally Held on with 2 bolts (1 each side) Once those are removed you can pull the Pump Piston Straight Out, Which will give you access to the "Pump Cylinder" and you can verify the condition and Replace the Orings if needed.
Not Always.. If its a Older Import, The Orings they Used carried a Larger Cross Section and you wont find very many in those in the HF/Generic Oring kits.
What type of Parts?
old_orange
Member
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- Mar 15, 2013
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- 6
OK thanks! Mine is older and dirtier, but this is basically it. Old Orange
. Do I need to drain out all the Bar's jack stop leak/jack fluid I just put in?
OK thanks! Mine is older and dirtier, but this is basically it. Old Orange
You know im not Really sure what Affect that stuff would have on a New Seal.. Im Not a fan of that Stuff.. You will find when you remove that Oring(s) and head to your Local Hydraulic Shop/Hardware store that you could have bought alot of Orings for what the Witches Brew costs you. As i indicated Earlier, You will have to remove the 2 bolts, You can see one of them in the Picture on the Right (Pertrudes thru that Handle Return Spring) and the Other side, Once those are removed you can slide the Lift Arm of the Handle out of the Groove on the Pump Piston and it will come straight out. It will Help if you elevate the Back of the Jack to keep the Oil Galley from filling up with oil, So you can see the Oring(s).
old_orange
Member
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Agreed, the internet is ripe with jack solutions using the seal swelling brew rather than actual fixes. I can put the regular jack oil back in after this is complete. Its a shame this post was buried so far down the google train. Also, if the symptoms can tell you anything...It happened lifting the rear end of a 02 Camry For brakes. Assume thats under the capacity of the jack and if I exceeded the jack's safety settings would have stopped me (assumption). Anyways, it leaks from the area in that pic, but does not lose any height. Does not come down. Does not leak from anywhere else, so hopefully its just the pump o-rings an nothing else. I'm taking it apart now.
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The Pump Pistons only Jobs is to Transfer Oil from the Reservoir to the Cylinder, Obviously Under Load it takes more Pressure to Lift the Upper ball to get to the Cylinder. The Overload Protection is a Entire different Circuit, and if the Load is not dropping once the Load is Raised, the Main Seal is Fine and doing its Job. Based off of your Picture, That leak would be symptomatic of a Bad Rod Seal (Oring) or a Poor Sealing Surface (The Actual Rod) Either/or can be inspected by removing those 2 bolts and Handle.
old_orange
Member
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- Mar 15, 2013
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So its possible that the 20yo hydraulic oil which had lost its viscosity could have breached the pump seals, flooding the pump cylinder with oil, making it too slippery, too slick to properly seal? And cleaning everything out could be all thats wrong? The rod itself is dirty
Or
I overfilled? I jacked and released a few times, the oil overflowed from the fill hole, then I closed the cap...
Is it ever that simple? Guess I'm about to find out.
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Jeeper
Well-known member
Ah. Where do you normally find oring like that? Are hydraulic shops the best place?
old_orange
Member
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old_orange
Member
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Well if you Only need 1 or 2, Yes they will be your cheapest.. They are Definitely Cheaper on a "Per Cost" Basis if you buy them 50-500 at a time. I dont overcharge for Orings, Ive sent out plenty of them just for the Cost of shipping.
No.. the Piston Cylinder is supposed to fill up with Oil when the Piston Rises, Im sure when you remove those Orings you will see that they have conformed to the Pump Piston and have Hardened. Definitely Remove some of the Oil, The Reservoir needs to have room to breathe, General Rule of thumb is the oil level should rest just above the Cylinder when peering thru the hole. The Rod is probably Dirty/rusty/Pitted at the top.. Generally the Working Area of the Rod is protected from the elements and carries a much better sealing surface. <-- Unless its Sat Dry for extended periods of time etc.. Again.. Removing that Pump Piston will get you where you need to be.
kawookie64
Member
Thanks for all the replies, folks. After tearing it down, I think I can just rebuild with new rings and have a good jack again.thanks
kawookie64
Member
Hey guys, quick question.... my new-to-me floor jack is missing the plug in the piston housing. Its a non-threaded hole; is it stripped out or is this a low pressure resivour (spelling?) That I can plug with a rubber plug? Thanks
Hey guys, quick question.... my new-to-me floor jack is missing the plug in the piston housing. Its a non-threaded hole; is it stripped out or is this a low pressure resivour (spelling?) That I can plug with a rubber plug? Thanks
No Idea what type of Jack you have, But alot of your Imports used Rubber plugs on the Reservoir, Make sure you dont overfill the Jack prior to installing the plug, it needs some Head room.
kawookie64
Member
Its almost the same exact jack as the one you used in the demo. By the pics, it looks like just a plug. Once I had scraped 20 yrs worth of sludge and **** off the housing, I found the hole and it matches the size and location of the fill hole. Thanks Hiball
Swiwi
New member
Hi Mate,
I have followed a link from a Google I made asking for info. on jack rebuild.
I want to thank you for the most impressive and precise description of the job. I am an amateur who used to service all his gear while on a small plot of country land. I am now back in the city, but still do my own and my son's vehicles, hence keeping the floor jack.
Thanks for helping me.
Cheers
Hutch (swiwi)
I have followed a link from a Google I made asking for info. on jack rebuild.
I want to thank you for the most impressive and precise description of the job. I am an amateur who used to service all his gear while on a small plot of country land. I am now back in the city, but still do my own and my son's vehicles, hence keeping the floor jack.
Thanks for helping me.
Cheers
Hutch (swiwi)
I have an old floor jack that was given to me about 18 years ago. Its just now starting to show signs of being in need of repair. There is part of a label on the neck. Not much left of it but I can see it says (........ means the label is ripped in this area and can't be read)
Made In...........L Mar......Ca
Was there an American floor jack company based out of Del Mar, CA? I've tried to do some Google searching on it but have come up empty. I am trying to identify the make of this jack before I attempt a repair. If it means anything the jack is orange in color and the color seems to be original.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Made In...........L Mar......Ca
Was there an American floor jack company based out of Del Mar, CA? I've tried to do some Google searching on it but have come up empty. I am trying to identify the make of this jack before I attempt a repair. If it means anything the jack is orange in color and the color seems to be original.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
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mrborohachi
Well-known member
For anyone in Southern California that doesn't trust them selves to do this job, or doesn't remember to count the turns on the pressure relief valve and would like to get it legitimately "Tested" I highly recommend Solte Tool Repair in 19028 San Jose Ave # A, Rowland Heights, CA 91748.
Roel (the owner) rebuilt a Hein Warner "'ol Boy" floor jack for me. I've seen many a Snap-On and Mac Tool truck dealers dropping off floor jacks and Air tools to be rebuilt.
Contact him he might be willing to sell you a seal kit for you guys that aren't local.
http://www.yellowpages.com/rowland-heights-ca/mip/solte-tool-repair-1375626
Roel (the owner) rebuilt a Hein Warner "'ol Boy" floor jack for me. I've seen many a Snap-On and Mac Tool truck dealers dropping off floor jacks and Air tools to be rebuilt.
Contact him he might be willing to sell you a seal kit for you guys that aren't local.
http://www.yellowpages.com/rowland-heights-ca/mip/solte-tool-repair-1375626
I have an old floor jack that was given to me about 18 years ago. Its just now starting to show signs of being in need of repair. There is part of a label on the neck. Not much left of it but I can see it says (........ means the label is ripped in this area and can't be read)
Made In...........L Mar......Ca
Was there an American floor jack company based out of Del Mar, CA? I've tried to do some Google searching on it but have come up empty. I am trying to identify the make of this jack before I attempt a repair. If it means anything the jack is orange in color and the color seems to be original.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Actually, when I look closer, the "Made In" wording on the label is actually below where it says L Mar, Ca. So it could have been made anywhere. It appears that just the pump seal is leaking so I may just repair that and see how its working. It would only pump about 1/2 height and would droop unless it was under a heavy load (trying to hold an exhaust h-pipe it would bleed down). Found it low on fluid and topped it off. I have full range again.
Sorry I missed your earlier post, your jack is a import (Yasui). The pump seal condition is not related to the dropping of lift arm. If you wish to start with the pump seal, its fairly simple and doesn't require removing the unit from the frame. Simply elevate the rear of the jack (move the oil away from the pump piston galley), remove the top bolt on each side, which will allow you to pull the pump piston straight up. The seals as indicated by this tutorial are inside the galley, resting in grooves.
Thanks Hiball for the help in IDing the jack. I guess I shouldn't have grouped everything together. I intially had an issue where the arm would bleed down under a light load, but would hold a heavy load. Then more recently, I could not pump up to the full height of the jack. I checked the level and it was really low on fluid. I topped it off and bled it, and now I have full range of jacking it up. I attribute the pump seal as the culprit based on that's where the grime is building up. The end of the ram is very clean. My assumption is that the pump seal was leaking oil and when I got low, I lost my range.
Now for the original issue, what would cause the jack to bleed down on a light load but hold a heavy load?
The only thing I could think of that would allow the jack to bleed down on light loads and not heavy loads would be a worn/cracked Main ram seal. I'm just guessing that maybe when the PSI is elevated its providing a better seal between the seal and the cylinder wall versus light PSI.. Regardless it will require being dismantled to inspect..
Hope that helps..
Thanks for the input. When I can free up some time, I'll tear it down and see what I find.
jfdestree
Well-known member
Wow, great post, Thanks Hiball for all those valuable infos!
I do have a question, I have a floor jack which is more than likely made in china. Lifting is not a problem, but it's very hard to make it going down slowly. When I turn the handle, I feel a little resistance, than turn like 2mm more and it go down at full speed. I recently damage the bottom of the sill of my car due to this...
I read almost the entire post but can not find this answer.
Thans you.
I do have a question, I have a floor jack which is more than likely made in china. Lifting is not a problem, but it's very hard to make it going down slowly. When I turn the handle, I feel a little resistance, than turn like 2mm more and it go down at full speed. I recently damage the bottom of the sill of my car due to this...
I read almost the entire post but can not find this answer.
Thans you.
Its a Very Common Issue with this style, Especially on the Gear to Gear transfer on the Release. Ive came to the conclusion that its a combination of the Teeth eventually getting a "Little" bent off center, thus it makes it hard to Release the Handle as smooth. The Other thing ive noticed is that the Manufacturers have utilized too small of a Release ball and or too big of return area around the ball which is allowing too much Oil to initially return towards the reservoir, Too Quickly... Which in turn drops the load faster.
jfdestree
Well-known member
Thanks for the reply. Is there a cure to solve this problem?