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Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

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Hiball

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not a quick lift

Very Well... I know you mentioned that you could only find a couple of Replacement Orings in the HF Kit, Was by chance the Pump Piston Oring one of them? As Edgar mentioned it could very well be a Vacuum Issue, Before you start Buying Vents/Drilling/Tapping Holes lets answer a few questions, as I really cant see you creating that much vacuum by simply bench bleeding a Jack. Now If the ORINGS are in Poor condition or The Reservoir is "Nut Full" (Very common for people to Overfill there Jack), both these situations will amplify that Vacuum affect. Its Extremely Important for Sealed jacks to have sufficient Head room to allow for Oil/Air to be displaced as well and Returned to the Cylinder. If your jack utilizes a Rubber plug, while its considered a Sealed system, It will vent while under Pressure.. Im sure every one has heard the Squeal that escapes occasionally on this style after Multiple Lift Cycles. I would first check the Oil Level, Make sure there is just enough in the jack to simply cover the Inner cylinder when peering thru the Hole.

My Suggestions:

1. Report Back on if the Pump orings where replaced.
2. Replace them.. Send me a PM if you are having problems finding.
3. Check the Oil Level, DO NOT OVERFILL.. It will amplify the Vacuum affect.
4. Install the Jack into the Frame and Bleed.
5. Test the Jack, With and Without the Plug installed to eliminate things.
6. Report Back on Results.
 
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recountryman

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not a quick lift

I'm disabled. I can only work at this for a couple hrs at a tiime. I also cant spell time. I'll get to everything suggested as soon as I can. I'll let you know.

wd40, pb, reg oil. Just coat the parts. I would take a stainless brush and clean the surface rust off the areas you can reach. The lube will probably get rid of the rest. You might as well keep on waiting. Are you gonna have to have any work done to your ram?

When/if my u cup comes in I'll have to machine the ram as mine is basically same design as yours. No biggie as I work in maintenance and do have some machining experience (self taught) just got to find time as right now I'm the only maintenance guy we have on 3rd shift and its hard to leave the line as machine shop is on other side of the plant.
 

EDGAR

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This has been discussed before somewhere else in GJ. And I am afraid I will have to disagree somewhat. Sorry about that.

While Hiball maintains that the rubber plug will vent under pressure, I have to state that a plug in good condition (not hardened or worn out), and also, the hole itself in good condition (not rusted or oval or enlarged somehow) will seal good enough that it prevents air from escaping the reservoir and it will also allow a vacuum to form inside the reservoir. Also, threaded metal plugs, with a sealing washer underneath, will seal so well that not air will escape. That this happens more or less, depends on the amount of air entering the reservoir and the causes of this air entering the reservoir, like worn o-rings somewhere else on the pump. A jack with good o-rings should retain, or create, less air pressure inside the reservoir.

Understand that these plugs have to seal well enough to prevent oil leaking out from the jacks while these are transported from the manufacturer to the dealer. If the jacks are stored upside down, for the duration of the voyage and the storing in the dealer store, a leaky plug would result in an empty oil reservoir.

Also, rubber plugs usually have a mushroom shape on the part that goes inside the reservoir (the bottom). When the air pressures pushes the plug, the wider part at the bottom of the plug gets pushed against the oil hole, increasing the sealing ability of the plug. Only if there is any issue with the plug condition or the hole condition, will the plug vent the air pressure. But not because that is what it is supposed to do, but because it is leaking.

Jacks like the Hein Werner 93642 gets shipped from the manufacturer with a solid threaded plug and the owner is required, in the instructions, to replace it with the supplied breather plug so the jacks works OK. Why does Hein Werner ( Shinn Fu ) urges the owners to change the plug? Because they know that there can be issues with either vacuum or air pressure inside the reservoir tank. Also, if no breather plug was supplied, the instructions required that the solid threaded plug be backed a turn or so, so the pump could release or allow air to enter as needed. That most jack manufacturers do not offer a breather plug, even when necessary, is just a way to save money. And anyway, most person never read instructions and the plugs would never get replaced.

But no one has to believe this by faith. This is not a Jim Jones or David Koresh thing that you have to believe in it blindly. Anyone with a jack, and assuming the plug is in good condition, can test this by himself. Just cycle the jack a few times (all the way up and down) and then push the plug aside a little and see if air comes rushing out. Either push it with your finger or use a rounded tip flat blade screwdriver so as to not damage the plug.

If the plug is in good condition, more often than not, some air will come rushing out when the plug is pushed aside. If you see oil coming out around the plug, or even leaking air, without having to push it aside, either you plug is not in good condition or the fill hole is enlarged somehow.

Please, anyone with a jack, test this before forming his own opinions about this issue.

I understand that Hiball might disagree about this strongly, but still I have to disagree with him because I feel the need to give the other side of the issue. I am not doing this to bother anyone nor I disagree just for the sake of disagreeing.
 
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Hiball

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This has been discussed before somewhere else in GJ. And I am afraid I will have to disagree somewhat. Sorry about that.

While Hiball maintains that the rubber plug will vent under pressure, I have to state that a plug in good condition (not hardened or worn out), and also, the hole itself in good condition (not rusted or oval or enlarged somehow) will seal good enough that it prevents air from escaping the reservoir. Also, threaded metal plugs, with a sealing washer underneath, will seal so well that not air will escape. That this happens more or less, depends on the amount of air entering the reservoir and the causes of this air entering the reservoir, like worn o-rings somewhere else on the pump. A jack with good o-rings should retain, or create, less air pressure inside the reservoir.

Understand that these plugs have to seal well enough to prevent oil leaking out from the jacks while these are transported from the manufacturer to the dealer. If the jacks are stored upside down, for the duration of the voyage and the storing in the dealer store, a leaky plug would result in an empty oil reservoir.

Also, rubber plugs usually have a mushroom shape on the part that goes inside the reservoir (the bottom). When the air pressures pushes the plug, the wider part at the bottom of the plug gets pushed against the oil hole, increasing the sealing ability of the plug. Only if there is any issue with the plug condition or the hole condition, will the plug vent the air pressure. But not because that is what it is supposed to do, but because it is leaking.

Jacks like the Hein Werner 93642 gets shipped from the manufacturer with a solid threaded plug and the owner is required, in the instructions, to replace it with the supplied breather plug so the jacks works OK. Why does Hein Werner ( Shinn Fu ) urges the owners to change the plug? Because they know that there can be issues with either vacuum or air pressure inside the reservoir tank. Also, if no breather plug was supplied, the instructions required that the solid threaded plug be backed a turn or so, so the pump could release or allow air to enter as needed. That most jack manufacturers do not offer a breather plug, even when necessary, is just a way to save money. And anyway, most person never read instructions and the plugs would never get replaced.

But no one has to believe this by faith. This is not a Jim Jones or David Koresh thing that you have to believe in it blindly. Anyone with a jack, and assuming the plug is in good condition, can test this by himself. Just cycle the jack a few times (all the way up and down) and then push the plug aside a little and see if air comes rushing out. Either push it with your finger or use a rounded tip flat blade screwdriver so as to not damage the plug.

If the plug is in good condition, more often than not, some air will come rushing out when the plug is pushed aside. If you see oil coming out around the plug, or even leaking air, without having to push it aside, either you plug is not in good condition or the fill hole is enlarged somehow.

Please, anyone with a jack, test this before forming his own opinions about this issue.

I understand that Hiball might disagree about this strongly, but still I have to disagree with him because I feel the need to give the other side of the issue. I am not doing this to bother anyone or disagree just for the sake of disagreeing.

I don't disagree strongly... But as these plugs age they harden, and "when I say they breathe" it is after multiple hydraulic cycles and mainly as they build pressure, from sucking/exhausting. Yes... A new pliable plug will hold a seal absolutely better than a older one, anyone who has ever had to remove one and reinstall them knows they are troublesome to remove without damaging, especially when they get hard. I would venture to guess that there are more leaky (plug) Yasui based jacks in use than ones that are ******** tight and there are more vacuum issues caused by overfilling/poor seals than leaky plugs (generally if air can get in, it can get out) Again I don't disagree with you, a properly filled jack that has a seal that can prevent the ingestion of air during the lift cycle (vacuum) will not have any issues controlling the return oil/air. I just think in the Grand Scheme of things, Unless someone is thinking about "Shipping" there jack where there was a possibility of Leakage.. Let that Plug Leak a little Air. Whats it gonna Hurt?

Btw for anyone wondering, The best way I've found to reinstall these plugs is to simply lube the flared portion, center it in the hole, and simply tap it with a hammer.
 
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toddol1971

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Well guys I appreciate all the help. Hiball your right. I was dissapointed to find that only (off the top of my head) 2 orings out of 2 kits would work. Before I put it back together I new I was gonna need to find the right orings. I threw it together anyway as to not loose parts and to make room on my bench. I have since rebuilt the other jack I had. I replaced a few orings. cleaned it out real good. There was alot of small metal fines in the bottom. I sprayed about 2 cans of brake cleaner in it. This jack has a welded tank. There is a snap ring of sorts holding the ram in. then a thick brass doohickey, rubber oring then a thick metal somewhat cone shaped piece that sits on the pin that goes thru the rams shaft. There is also a spring and another smaller pin in the big end of the ram. Ive got this jack working better than it ever has. I filed the square piece on the release valve and the rough edges on the star wheels and man this thing releases unbelievable. I can get it to drop so slow you can barely tell its moving. I cant believe what a difference that made. This is a blackhawk brand and it says made in japan. is this type of ram setup a good one? It looks alot better to me, and way easier to take apart I think. I wish I could find a good 4 to 6 ton used jack made in america that wouldnt cost 1000 bucks.

Back to the other jack. I'm gonna need some orings for it so when I get time I will let you know what I need. I did test it with the plug out the first time I tried it to see if it would work better like that. It did. I had a strong feeling that pump oring was bad. I believe your right steven and edgar, bad oring is causing air leak. I forgot to mention that the pump shaft doesnt look to good either. I'll try and get a pic and see if you think I need a new one.

I'm sorry its taking me so long to reply sometimes. I haven't been feeling to well lately. I've been teaching my 12 yr old boy Ethan how to use the zero turn and basically how to work in general. My kids have always had chores, but he's old enough to start working like a man now (a little bit anyways). He does it, and will stick with it for how ever long it takes but when I check the work he's done its half a$$ed. I think you know the rest of the story LOL. I just wanted to let you know that your help wasnt going unnoticed, I've just had alot in the way lately.

Thanks again, and I will get back to youns soon.
 
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Hiball

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Well guys I appreciate all the help. Hiball your right. I was dissapointed to find that only (off the top of my head) 2 orings out of 2 kits would work. Before I put it back together I new I was gonna need to find the right orings. I threw it together anyway as to not loose parts and to make room on my bench. I have since rebuilt the other jack I had. I replaced a few orings. cleaned it out real good. There was alot of small metal fines in the bottom. I sprayed about 2 cans of brake cleaner in it. This jack has a welded tank. There is a snap ring of sorts holding the ram in. then a thick brass doohickey, rubber oring then a thick metal somewhat cone shaped piece that sits on the pin that goes thru the rams shaft. There is also a spring and another smaller pin in the big end of the ram. Ive got this jack working better than it ever has. I filed the square piece on the release valve and the rough edges on the star wheels and man this thing releases unbelievable. I can get it to drop so slow you can barely tell its moving. I cant believe what a difference that made. This is a blackhawk brand and it says made in japan. is this type of ram setup a good one? It looks alot better to me, and way easier to take apart I think. I wish I could find a good 4 to 6 ton used jack made in america that wouldnt cost 1000 bucks.

Back to the other jack. I'm gonna need some orings for it so when I get time I will let you know what I need. I did test it with the plug out the first time I tried it to see if it would work better like that. It did. I had a strong feeling that pump oring was bad. I believe your right steven and edgar, bad oring is causing air leak. I forgot to mention that the pump shaft doesnt look to good either. I'll try and get a pic and see if you think I need a new one.

I'm sorry its taking me so long to reply sometimes. I haven't been feeling to well lately. I've been teaching my 12 yr old boy Ethan how to use the zero turn and basically how to work in general. My kids have always had chores, but he's old enough to start working like a man now (a little bit anyways). He does it, and will stick with it for how ever long it takes but when I check the work he's done its half a$$ed. I think you know the rest of the story LOL. I just wanted to let you know that your help wasnt going unnoticed, I've just had alot in the way lately.

Thanks again, and I will get back to youns soon.

Np.. When the time comes give me a shout, definitely need to verify the condition of the pump piston, specifically in the sealing range.
 

e-tek

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You're doing us all a GREAT service sir!! I just suggested (likely not the first to) that maybe GJ could have a tech section, maybe even parsed into Building, Tools and automotive. Also would be great if GJ would have a Tech Week contest like at the HAMB.

Of course maybe we do and I just don't know about it...I'm sure I'm not the only one to hate to have to "stumble across" great threads such as yours by wading through so much literary banality (like my threads).... ;).

Anyways - thanks again for the effort on this one, both initially and over 25 pages!!
 

recountryman

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Well I finally got around to machining mine after waiting weeks for seals to come in. My machining went ok ( for me doing it) except someone at work broke our digital add-on display and the scales on the lathe are in standard so my "Just need to take a hair off more on diameter" was .190mm off seal still feels tight so hoping it will be ok.

Also as you can see in the pic I'm 1.1mm from seal with the snap ring (see gap in pic where I pushed seal up to snap ring to get a good view of it) will that be ok or should I make a spacer to take care of that. I could also remove snap ring and install o ring which would take out all of the space as I have one that fits in it perfect) Don't worry snap ring diameter looks closer to seal diameter in pic than it actually is, still smaller than size of the ram...already tried it in the bore and has clearance.
 

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toddol1971

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Well I finally got around to machining mine after waiting weeks for seals to come in. My machining went ok ( for me doing it) except someone at work broke our digital add-on display and the scales on the lathe are in standard so my "Just need to take a hair off more on diameter" was .190mm off seal still feels tight so hoping it will be ok.

Also as you can see in the pic I'm 1.1mm from seal with the snap ring (see gap in pic where I pushed seal up to snap ring to get a good view of it) will that be ok or should I make a spacer to take care of that. I could also remove snap ring and install o ring which would take out all of the space as I have one that fits in it perfect) Don't worry snap ring diameter looks closer to seal diameter in pic than it actually is, still smaller than size of the ram...already tried it in the bore and has clearance.

I'm no expert, but I think you have to much of a gap. I would think you need another snap ring or 2 to take up the space.
 

recountryman

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Apr 20, 2013
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Thanks for the replies, I know EDGAR said in a comment to someone else about being 1 -2 mm from seal and it should be ok but wanted to be sure.

Got jack put back and it works great!
 

Mr.N

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Thanks

Hiball,

Thanks for the write up, I used it to refresh my jack.
Figure I'd post a pic as it has the foot peddle. I bought it from Target 16 years ago brand new, and on clearance when they were getting rid of their Car and Drive branded parts.
It was almost the same as your jack for this thread.


jack_1.jpg

jack_2.jpg
 

Denn

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Jun 13, 2013
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Hi. I've used this thread to help me investigate why my 80's vintage Sears 2 ton jack is leaking down. It's not leaking oil, so the main ram seals are prob ok?? Checked the overload per descriptions here, it had some oil above setscrew which was 1-1/4 turns from bottomed out. The ball and seat looked good. Checked the geared release valve, needle and seat looked good. I guess now need to check working valve, but there are two center punched indents right where the plug threads meet the housing body. Looks like it was done to prevent removing the threaded plug. Didn't read anything like this here before. Has anyone seen this? What's the best way to clear the threads - drill the centerpunches?
 
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Hiball

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Hi. I've used this thread to help me investigate why my 80's vintage Sears 2 ton jack is leaking down. It's not leaking oil, so the main ram seals are prob ok?? Checked the overload per descriptions here, it had some oil above setscrew which was 1-1/4 turns from bottomed out. The ball and seat looked good. Checked the geared release valve, needle and seat looked good. I guess now need to check working valve, but there are two center punched indents right where the plug threads meet the housing body. Looks like it was done to prevent removing the threaded plug. Didn't read anything like this here before. Has anyone seen this? What's the best way to clear the threads - drill the centerpunches?

Yes, I've seen valve plugs staked in the past, generally when you remove the plug it will take a little persuasion, but will the threads will take care of the stake (generally its just a small dot punch). As far as the "leaking down" problem, just because its not leaking doesnt mean the main ram seal hasn't failed, there is generally a weep/return hole in the end of the cylinder that can give any oil a path back to the reservoir.

How fast is the Leak down? Generally any substantial valve issues will be noticeable with handle feedback when the jack is under load. I suspect your problem is internal, my recommendation is to inspect the main ram seal.
 

Denn

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Jun 13, 2013
Messages
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Thanks. I didn't realize the main ram seals could be defective and not leak externally. I'll check that next, then the working valve after. The jack will pump up without any load on it, but can easily be pushed back down with my foot. It won't lift at all if I put my foot on it.
 

montrosepatriot

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Jul 8, 2012
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I have a Norco 71200 floor jack which has been out of service where the jack handle lever has 2 egged out holes...
9465371078
photostream
 

montrosepatriot

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9465371078
9465371140


Norco 71200 jack handle lever assembly (the holes are egged where im considering the use of Muggyweld 77 welding rods
 
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Hiball

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I have a Norco 71200 floor jack which has been out of service where the jack handle lever has 2 egged out holes...
9465371078
photostream

Your Pictures aren't showing up for me, I Did manage to track them down by following the flickr link.





That is Some Extreme Wear IMO... At this Point I don't know what you have to lose by attempting to Weld up the Holes. Im not Proficient in Welding Alloys enough to know what type of Rod you should use. Im sure that the right people reside within these walls, But you may have to start a thread soley about Welding and the Question to get there attention.

Good Luck.

BTW.. When your using outside hosting services for Pictures, Just copy the Image file and add it to your thread, Don't try use the Upload feature.
 
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artbuc

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Aug 28, 2009
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Just found this thread which is where I should have made my earlier post. My Alltrade 689-J-214 looks just like the pic in Hiball's first post.

Hiball's, can I get a seal repair kit for this jack? Thanks.
 

bobbyd75

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Aug 25, 2013
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Hiball:

First off thank you for all of your time and effort on this thread!

I have an Allied HJD2 2 ton floor jack purchased in the early 80's and I need the ram seal as pictured in Post #220. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated
 

harveyhalabukie

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Aug 27, 2013
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Hello All. I just rebuilt my father's Sears Craftsman (Yasui) model #328.12030. I ordered a seal kit that I found online at Lazzar's HCRC. I found the cup seal was disintegrated. I replaced all the seals and two balls, but the jack has a needle and seat type working valve so the extra (third) ball in the kit was not used. I put everything back together, filled the reservoir with jack oil and I get nothing.

I then found this website and saw HiBall's awesome write-up. I double-checked everything and I actually did the same procedures as described here to rebuild it. I tried bleeding the air out by working the pump while the valve was open multiple times. When I pull up on the saddle, the rubber fill plug shoots out along with some oil. Is there a procedure to fill and bleed and empty jack once everything is back together? Am I missing something? Thanks in advance!:beer:
 

BadBehavior

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Apr 3, 2010
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I hope I'm not hijacking somebody's thread. I have a Sears 328-12001. Earlier someone listed a repair kit Blackhawk.com, Norco 71200. The nomenclature states for 2 ton jack, mine I thought was a 1 1/2, label is missing. to the right of the 71200 listing is a different number with the nomenclature listing for a 1 1/2 ton jack. Can someone clarify which would be a correct kit/number??
Thanks to everyone that has made this one of the best tut's!!:bowdown:
Larry, BadB...
 
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Hiball

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I hope I'm not hijacking somebody's thread. I have a Sears 328-12001. Earlier someone listed a repair kit Blackhawk.com, Norco 71200. The nomenclature states for 2 ton jack, mine I thought was a 1 1/2, label is missing. to the right of the 71200 listing is a different number with the nomenclature listing for a 1 1/2 ton jack. Can someone clarify which would be a correct kit/number??
Thanks to everyone that has made this one of the best tut's!!:bowdown:
Larry, BadB...

A Sears 328-12001 is the Same as a Norco 71200 and both are rated at 1 1/2 Tons, With that said.. a Norco 71200 Series A or B are entirely different jacks which require different seal kits and are rated at 2 1/4
 

BadBehavior

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Thank you MR. HIBALL, for the immediate response, I always like to verify when starting orders from internet sales. Your tute was a welcome piece as I was ready to set this jack out at the curb.:deadhorse
Larry, Bad'B
 

HCRCnow

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Oct 1, 2011
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Long Beach, CA
I hope I'm not hijacking somebody's thread. I have a Sears 328-12001. Earlier someone listed a repair kit Blackhawk.com, Norco 71200. The nomenclature states for 2 ton jack, mine I thought was a 1 1/2, label is missing. to the right of the 71200 listing is a different number with the nomenclature listing for a 1 1/2 ton jack. Can someone clarify which would be a correct kit/number??
Thanks to everyone that has made this one of the best tut's!!:bowdown:
Larry, BadB...

Larry,
If you are still having trouble, give me a call.
Marc
 

kcoyle

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Nov 18, 2011
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NY
Man throws jack through fence.

Self proclaimed idiot here. My circa 1999 craftsman 875.501.390 stopped working while I was doing the brakes on the wifes car. While I was out getting parts it sank just enough that I couldn't pump it back up to get the jackstands out. Luckily I have a small "trolley" jack that saved the day.
I decided to tear into the jack before reading this thread. Needless to say I butchered something. I may have even lost a part or two as I pumped the piston with the screw cap off the check valve and I retreived one spring and one ball that shot out. I pulled the piston out and inspected it and the rubber oring. It seemed OK. Nothing in my HF case would match it so I put it back in. The "plastic thing" right below it seemed OK too. I did not touch the overload. The jack will now not pump up with the handle. I can lift it up by hand, close the valve, and the jack stays up. I can stand on it. Jump on it. It will stay up. I can open the valve and it lowers smoother than ever. It just wont pump up. No leaks from anywhere and slight suction on the piston. I'm hoping I didn't lose anything.Any thoughts are well appreciated.

I didn't take pictures but I did try to draw the guts of this jack.




Thanks,
kevin
 
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Hiball

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Re: Man throws jack through fence.

Self proclaimed idiot here. My circa 1999 craftsman 875.501.390 stopped working while I was doing the brakes on the wifes car. While I was out getting parts it sank just enough that I couldn't pump it back up to get the jackstands out. Luckily I have a small "trolley" jack that saved the day.
I decided to tear into the jack before reading this thread. Needless to say I butchered something. I may have even lost a part or two as I pumped the piston with the screw cap off the check valve and I retreived one spring and one ball that shot out. I pulled the piston out and inspected it and the rubber oring. It seemed OK. Nothing in my HF case would match it so I put it back in. The "plastic thing" right below it seemed OK too. I did not touch the overload. The jack will now not pump up with the handle. I can lift it up by hand, close the valve, and the jack stays up. I can stand on it. Jump on it. It will stay up. I can open the valve and it lowers smoother than ever. It just wont pump up. No leaks from anywhere and slight suction on the piston. I'm hoping I didn't lose anything.Any thoughts are well appreciated.

I didn't take pictures but I did try to draw the guts of this jack.




Thanks,
kevin

My guess since it won't pump up and holds when you manually lift the arm/close the release is that the lower ball is missing from the working valve. That translates to your picture only showing one ball and spring.
 

kcoyle

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****, I was kinda thinking I lost something. :mad: Any guesstimate on the size of the lower ball. I've got a ton of old bicycle bearings in the garage.

Thanks for the help, much appreciated.
 
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Hiball

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****, I was kinda thinking I lost something. :mad: Any guesstimate on the size of the lower ball. I've got a ton of old bicycle bearings in the garage.

Thanks for the help, much appreciated.

Elevate the Rear of the Jack (to move the oil to the other end) and remove the Valve bolt and using a magnet pull everything out of the Hole. Lemme know what measurement you get on the Upper ball, Im at Home right now but if my memory serves me correct, if its roughly 3/8" you can get by with a 1/4" on the Bottom, but some use a 5.5mm or 7/32" (for the metric challenged) and what you don't want to do is drop too big of a Ball down a tight hole as they tend to get stuck.
 

kcoyle

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As instructed and you are spot on. The ball is a hair under 3/8 according to my cheapo caliper.

 
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Hiball

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As instructed and you are spot on. The ball is a hair under 3/8 according to my cheapo caliper.


Very well.. Probably wouldn't hurt to try and measure that lower valve opening prior to just blindly dropping a ball down there. I'm not sure what tools you have at your disposal but maybe you can find a pin punch or something with the proper diameter to try and gauge the diameter of that hole.
 

kcoyle

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Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
10
Location
NY
1/4 roll pin punch fit pretty snugly but no 1/4 inch ball bearings in the garage. I will try to source some tomorrow.
What then is my order in the valve? 1/4 ball first, spring, 3/8 ball, then cap?
 

EDGAR

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 21, 2010
Messages
437
The spring goes over the 3/8 " ball. It is not absolutely necessary, it just helps the bigger ball to move faster towards its seat. This 3/8 " ball is the one way valve that holds the oil that goes behind the ram. When you are pumping the handle, the ball allows oil to go into the cylinder. As soon as you stop pumping the ball closes against its seat, holding the weight of the car. The seal here has to be perfect, otherwise the arm would bleed down.

The smaller ball allows oil to come from the oil tank into the pump piston cavity when you lift the handle. When you push down the handle, the smaller ball closes against its seat and the oil is redirected towards the ram. This one does not need a spring, although in other types of pumps you might find a metal weight ( some call these "spacers") over this ball as well as over the bigger ball, just to make them react faster.

This pump is made by TORIN, and although there are a few variations, it is basically the same pump. It is used in many Chinese jacks with a similar shape as yours, and they should all be interchangeable. By the way, that pump is the same as the one shown in HIBALL tutorial.

OTC uses that pump in their OTC 1504A model. But their model does not have the spring and it works just fine. See below a parts breakdown for the OTC 15104A and a link to the OTC jack manual.

http://www2.otctools.com/otctools.com/newcatalog/products/522982_E.pdf
 

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kcoyle

Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
10
Location
NY
Found a 1/4 ball at the local ace on the way home tonight and I'm back in business. Thanks Hiball and Edgar for the clear and concise help. :bowdown:
 

eokie1

Active member
Joined
Dec 28, 2009
Messages
38
HiBall: THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU !!!! your tutorial helped me figure out that all that was wrong with my 1991 vintage Sears 2 1/4 TON floor jack, was the "back-off" of the overload....(or maybe just "junk" in the fluid, not sure....but after taking it apart, draining all the fluid, and figuring out WHERE the 2 (small and bigger) ball bearing went, then new jack oil, that fixed it !!! little went in 1st, then the larger one, under the hex-head bolt...

model # 9-50110 or 214-501100 ??
works like new, now !!!

It has worked well, just occasional-shade-tree use, until the last few weeks....I had bought it new in '91 or '92

Really needed that jack, and did NOT look forward to buying a new (very-likely-inferiorly-made-one) !!!!

Sincerely, Jim Jensen St. Augustine, FL
 
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