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Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial.

Bob with the 66

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Oct 30, 2014
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Just want to say thank you to hiball for this thread, I have a jack at home that I am looking forward to fixing.

It will pump up and lift a load but only 3/4 of the way up and then just not pump up any further.

Grey body 3 ton Sears only number left to read on the decal is 950115 and a portion of 875.5011?.

Does this sound like the pump seals are bad, and hiball do you offer the seals for this jack?

Bob
 
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Hiball

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Just want to say thank you to hiball for this thread, I have a jack at home that I am looking forward to fixing.

It will pump up and lift a load but only 3/4 of the way up and then just not pump up any further.

Grey body 3 ton Sears only number left to read on the decal is 950115 and a portion of 875.5011?.

Does this sound like the pump seals are bad, and hiball do you offer the seals for this jack?

Bob

It definitely sounds like Weak pump seals, This scenario can be amplified with a Reservoir that is overfull, and the pump cylinder cant simply overcome the Vacuum from the Reservoir. Im currently not shipping any seals, There are a few places that assemble some of the Sears kits, Although pricey you can check with the Shop in my Signature or Lazzars Hydraulics.
 

Bob with the 66

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Thank you for your input Hiball,

If it is the pump seals, would those be the seals mentioned in the earlier posts that can be purchased at harbor freight in their metric O Ring kits?

I did fill the reservoir with fluid during my testing ;-) can you actually put to much fluid in a jack?

Bob,
 
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Hiball

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Thank you for your input Hiball,

If it is the pump seals, would those be the seals mentioned in the earlier posts that can be purchased at harbor freight in their metric O Ring kits?

I did fill the reservoir with fluid during my testing ;-) can you actually put to much fluid in a jack?

Bob,

Assuming it's similar to the the in this tutorial, Yes the pump should utilize orings in a rod application, you might get lucky with a Harbor freight kit, but generally those orings are generic in sizing. In regards to the fluid, absolutely you can overfill a "sealed" reservoir, the fluid level needs to rest just above the cylinder when peering into the hole, with the jack at rest, there needs to be some headspace accommodate oil leaving and returning to the reservoir.
 

nelson133

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Aug 9, 2015
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Found this thread via a search engine. My jack is branded Allied Indy 5 and just quit today, but I didn't see a similar problem in this thread. It jacked up just fine, but won't release. I used another jack to lift the car and pulled out from under, but it won't release with no load either. The gear teeth are in good shape but they won't turn. I don't use it that often, but this is the first sign of trouble. Thanks for any advice.
 
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Hiball

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Found this thread via a search engine. My jack is branded Allied Indy 5 and just quit today, but I didn't see a similar problem in this thread. It jacked up just fine, but won't release. I used another jack to lift the car and pulled out from under, but it won't release with no load either. The gear teeth are in good shape but they won't turn. I don't use it that often, but this is the first sign of trouble. Thanks for any advice.

Well if you can't release the gears, you obviously can't unseat the release valve, thus allow the lift arm to lower. I would first make sure the lower handle hasn't simply lost contact with socket that connects to the gear, if all is good there it might simply be that the gear has been overtightened and/or it simply needs a little lube.
 

rporonga

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Jun 17, 2014
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Great tutorial Hiball.

I bought a new Craftsman 3 ton floor jack, that looks like the one in the tutorial. While testing it, I noticed that the pump piston (not sure what is the right term, but it is the piston that goes up and down when jacking up) has some oil around it. Not enough to make it look like it is leaking, but it is definitely wet. Is this normal, or some oil is passing past the seals? Perhaps they put some oil there to avoid it rusting? As it is brand new I can probably get it exchanged, but did not want to bother if this is normal.

Thanks!
 
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Hiball

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It's Not uncommon to see/feel a "light" film of oil on the pump piston, be Leary of any dripping or pooling of Oil. The Oring needs "some" lube to prevent damage and extend the life of the seal.
 
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Hiball

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Hiball. Any suggestion on on how to remove the inner cylinder?

I can't speak for all models, but the inner cylinder (quick lift) is generally secured below a plate that is sandwiched between the main cylinder and the hydraulic unit base.
 

asm

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Sorry. I mean to say removal the main cylinder. Since I have already try to pull, twist the quick lift tube without success, I cam came the conclusion that the quick lift tube is held down at the plate at the base of the main cylinder. The plate is than secure by the main cylinder.

I tried the remove the main cylinder with pipe wrench, but am worry about deforming the main cylinder.

Thanks
 
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Hiball

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I tried the remove the main cylinder with pipe wrench, but am worry about deforming the main cylinder.

Thanks

As you should, it's very easy to flat spot a cylinder. I have cylinder stock for the more common bore sizes, in my time here at GJ I've seen members utilize appropriate sized sockets in the bore to reduce the possibility, Edgar mentioned that you can use exhaust pipe expanders to get a grip internally. If you go that route be very cautious as you don't want to damage the cylinder surface, I've never tried it.
 

asm

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Thanks for the confirming my concern. Interesting idea of using socket or pipe expender. I will give them a try.
 

asm

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I managed to get the main cylinder off the block. As it turns out, the leak on the quick lift tube is where it meets the block. Apparently, someone must have turn the quick lift adjustment screw to far in and deformed the steel base plate that was mean to hold the nylon/oring in place. Of course, the nylon backing ring took a beating in the process.

Now, I need to find replacement o-ring/nylon backing ring set. Got any recommendation on an on-line site where I can order replacement?

Thanks
 
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Hiball

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I managed to get the main cylinder off the block. As it turns out, the leak on the quick lift tube is where it meets the block. Apparently, someone must have turn the quick lift adjustment screw to far in and deformed the steel base plate that was mean to hold the nylon/oring in place. Of course, the nylon backing ring took a beating in the process.

Now, I need to find replacement o-ring/nylon backing ring set. Got any recommendation on an on-line site where I can order replacement?

Thanks


The cheapest route would be probably be via a local hydraulic shop, you can also check with HPS in my signature, Lazzar Hydraulics or try at get a good meausurement and check with a online consumer friendly dealer, such as The Oring store.
 

RoundedCorners

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If anyone rebuilds their Asia-made jacks, could you document it? Places where you got the parts, what part #, how it went, etc. Maybe we could get some model-specific documentation as well.

Thanks for the write up, Hiball. This thread has been a gold mine of useful info.
 

BLACK DEATH

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Hibill, is it even worth trying to fix these small jacks?
The 2 ton ones you can find for about $30?
Was givin a few for free as they don't work
 
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Hiball

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Hibill, is it even worth trying to fix these small jacks?
The 2 ton ones you can find for about $30?
Was givin a few for free as they don't work

If your referencing the small trolley jacks, generally not unless you have access to parts fairly reasonable.
 

BLACK DEATH

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Yes sir that's which ones I a referring to.
What's a rebuild kit cost on these little jacks.
I've had others jacks not work and it was the oring around the pump mechanism that needed replacing.
I guess I can mess with it n see what happens.
 
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Hiball

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Yes sir that's which ones I a referring to.
What's a rebuild kit cost on these little jacks.
I've had others jacks not work and it was the oring around the pump mechanism that needed replacing.
I guess I can mess with it n see what happens.

I dont know of anyone who assembles Kits for the Import Trolley Jacks, It wouldnt be a big seller, Most people just toss them and Buy New based off the Cost comparison.
 

rharman

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Been following this thread for a long time. I have a Sears 328.12001 1-1/2 ton that won't hold a load anymore. Probably had the jack for close to 40 years.

Was considering the HF aluminum jack that always has a coupon for about $70 but was pretty disappointed when I looked at them.

Going to pull the trigger on a kit from Lazzars this weekend and hope for the best.

Biggest concern is getting that big cap/nut off the cylinder without chewing it up. The jack is in mint condition right now and I hope to keep it that way.
 

bigmikes50chevy

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Feb 12, 2011
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Just wanted to say Thank You for taking the time to post the how to. I was a little reluctant to try, but I did. Rebuilt my 15 year old harbor freight 3 ton floor jack. It was a spare so if I goofed I wasn't that worried. Before the rebuild, wouldn't hold car up, after the rebuild, works like a charm. Thank You again.

BigMike


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Burgerkong

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Rebuilding my MAC JSA350M, CSR said correct kit was an Omega (Shinn Fu) OMGQG93M00-K00 - only thing is that the release valve has changed from a two piece setup to a one piece. The jack that corresponds with the kit number has a newer pump design. Worst case scenario I end up going to buy parts individually.

Also no springs for the working valves, though this was apparently not required.
 

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captmoto

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My Allied import jack will only lift so high. I am losing a lot of fluid past the piston seal. I have it out and will replace it tomorrow. That piston looked kinda corroded, maybe galled but I have it cleaned up well enough to try. Really not too bad for a 25+ year old $25 jack. If I give you dimensions and or pictures could you recommend a spring for the handle? It's broken off and useless.
 

HCRCnow

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My Allied import jack will only lift so high. I am losing a lot of fluid past the piston seal. I have it out and will replace it tomorrow. That piston looked kinda corroded, maybe galled but I have it cleaned up well enough to try. Really not too bad for a 25+ year old $25 jack. If I give you dimensions and or pictures could you recommend a spring for the handle? It's broken off and useless.


Please post the model number and the best measurements of the spring.


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Sambar Stag

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rharman, that model is the same one that I have and rebuilt last year. The green Yasui one, right? This project went smoothly, thanks to the instructions found here and parts ordered from the internet. The big end cap IS very tight. I finally had success with the ram assembly clamped in my Wilton bullet vise,and the biggest adjustable wrench that HF sells. I got additional leverage from a 5 foot long jack handle with the end ovalized with said vise in order to slip over the handle of the wrench. I had to reinforce my workbench because it started to crack and flex under the torque. And with the both me and my 17y/o son putting our strength into it, it finally came off. The only paint damage was from my previous attempts with a pipe wrench.
 
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MVP Jack with foot pedal - Needs help

Wow great forum for these old floor jacks. Thank you all.

I have a MVP Superlift jack. No idea of actual model or weight capacity.

The basic physical assembly best resembles Binovc's MVP jack due to the foot pedal option (#210 post). However the bottle jack portion is a dead ringer for Windswept4's when looking at his pictures (#225 post).

Symptom was no lift at all or a slight bump then back down it went.
After adding jack oil to fill and bleeding.

I have no leaks from the pump port and there is suction.
I have looked in check valve port and count 2 balls only, small first then large.
I have adjusted release valve ( half moon style - 1 ball ) seems to seat right.
And verified Overload valve (was 2 1/2 out from seat, oil was on top of screw, reset to that)

Now jack raises and creeps down with every stroke. If i stomp on the foot pedal i can cycle it faster and reach full lift. once i stop it lowers slowly.

Any ideas? Thanks BlackKnight2538
 

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Hiball

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Re: MVP Jack with foot pedal - Needs help

Wow great forum for these old floor jacks. Thank you all.

I have a MVP Superlift jack. No idea of actual model or weight capacity.

The basic physical assembly best resembles Binovc's MVP jack due to the foot pedal option (#210 post). However the bottle jack portion is a dead ringer for Windswept4's when looking at his pictures (#225 post).

Symptom was no lift at all or a slight bump then back down it went.
After adding jack oil to fill and bleeding.

I have no leaks from the pump port and there is suction.
I have looked in check valve port and count 2 balls only, small first then large.
I have adjusted release valve ( half moon style - 1 ball ) seems to seat right.
And verified Overload valve (was 2 1/2 out from seat, oil was on top of screw, reset to that)

Now jack raises and creeps down with every stroke. If i stomp on the foot pedal i can cycle it faster and reach full lift. once i stop it lowers slowly.

Any ideas? Thanks BlackKnight2538

I suspect your main ram seal is kaput, and it will be blatantly obvious once you tear into it, and Yes even a failing seal can create enough of a seal to actually lift a light lift arm.
 
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I was afraid you were going to say that. Boo. Everyone post what a pain getting them open is. Any advice on how to best do that? Thanks Much
 
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Hiball well I got the end off cylinder and heres what I found.

1) loose screen. Im guessing it lived in large bottom hole. Probably not use huh.

2) Got excited when I saw this crack in seal. I'm thinking that's not supposed to be there?

3) Got sad when I saw these 2 grooves/cracks in cylinder wall opposite the rod seal. They look almost machined on purpose. Are they or am I tossing this jack out?

4) If I can save it. Where can I get the seal kit? I know harbor freight has the metric set but will it go as large as the cylinder rings. I realize I will need a new U-cup as well.

Thanks BlackKnight2538
 

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Hiball

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Hiball well I got the end off cylinder and heres what I found.

1) loose screen. Im guessing it lived in large bottom hole. Probably not use huh.

2) Got excited when I saw this crack in seal. I'm thinking that's not supposed to be there?

3) Got sad when I saw these 2 grooves/cracks in cylinder wall opposite the rod seal. They look almost machined on purpose. Are they or am I tossing this jack out?

4) If I can save it. Where can I get the seal kit? I know harbor freight has the metric set but will it go as large as the cylinder rings. I realize I will need a new U-cup as well.

Thanks BlackKnight2538

You can check with HPS in my signature for a kit or Lazzars Hydraulic, they may be able to help you in "kit form" or you can save some money and measure everything yourself and order online or possibly thru a local hydraulic shop. The grooves are factory and are there to allow the fluid to bypass when it reaches max height.
 

pacemade

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Dec 1, 2015
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Alaska
I have an old Napa jack a guy gave me after he took all the ball valves, springs and weights out. He mixed them up and put them back. I have put everything back the best I could figure out, the jack see-saws now. How would I find a tutorial to rebuild this jack correctly?
 

HCRCnow

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Messages
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Location
Long Beach, CA
Pacemade
Post a few pictures of the jack and the parts that you are needing help with.
Or
Let us have the model number.



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