Nice big socket. I have one with the similar broach but the part number is 8071785. I will try to remember to grab a picture of it. It doesn't have a size stamped on it either from what I remember.
I have found that the N signifies a change from the standard part number there is a few examples of these in the 30XX DOEs where they had custom size combos that didn't fall into the part number sequence. I am unsure if they were a contractual run as I don't remember ever seeing them in the catalogs.
Thank for the insight. I will have to do some reading in the subject matter.
Super late reply, but I did post the WF hinge handle that would go with that some time even further back. I even shiney'ed it up a little the other day, but no pic yet.
3bay that is really interesting. Some sort of contract number? Did the 1/2" and 1" ratchets come from the same geographic area? All you guys and your "big deals in the works" have me feeling like I'm missing out on some cool stuff! Can't wait to see it!
Slew,This set was underappreciated on the auction site, except the ratchet I already owned.
Missing the 1/2", and I don't have any like that. I thought the box was a repaint, but the wrinkle coat is too good. Dont worry, I have a sad paint fail story to make up for it. All components seem to be era matched at least. A few have xC date codes, most are unmarked. The FC rat was a natural here.
Those look like they might be Ordnance Dept Drawing Numbers to me. Supply people used the drawing numbers as a stock numbering system, before the so-called "TAXI" numbering system, which preceded the use of Treasury Dept Federal Stock Numbers (the 41-X-XXXX) numbers). The drawing numbers are more typically prewar and early war, but all the stock numbering systems can be found throughout the war. The letter corresponds to the drawing size. Drawing numbers for very small parts all start with A, medium with B, and so on. Seeing them on tools is less common than other things, such as armorer's tool boxes, and usually they don't have a hyphen. Hence my "might be" caveat. But I have a feeling. It is consistent with the paint, too. Thought to be an Interwar/early war thing. The only wartime tools I have with that kind of OD green paint job are things like single end offset socket wrenches, lug wrenches, and cranks. And they may have been used as cranks. If not cranks, then as ratcheting wrenches for large bolts on large vehicles and equipment. Not for sockets.
It's funny how that works. If anything, probably because the paint looks 'too good' or 'off', somehow, as you alluded to, but only because we're used to seeing finishes that have faded and worn. I love that the finish on every piece in the set is a very close match.
That bar is amazingly clean.
Can't wait to see your work on that long Plomb screwdriver.I've had some extra time lately for things like regrinding old screwdrivers, luckily I went into lockdown with 3000 grit sandpaper in stock.
forgot a before picture of this stubby, but a white mushroom with a broken tooth sticking out the end would not be far off. Based on internet wisdom, I tried acetone dipping the handle. As fast as you can is not fast enough...maybe acetone fumes...It does take off white stuff, and passably clarify the finish, but also orange peels it. I had to go back to 600 sandpaper, and almost lost the markings. Also if you do dip, clean very well first, as every bit of contamination will be permanently embedded in the pyralin. Trying to figure out a way to fill missing areas...
This set was underappreciated on the auction site, except the ratchet I already owned.
Missing the 1/2", and I don't have any like that. I thought the box was a repaint, but the wrinkle coat is too good. Dont worry, I have a sad paint fail story to make up for it. All components seem to be era matched at least. A few have xC date codes, most are unmarked. The FC rat was a natural here.
I dont normally go hard on collecting Craftsman, but this 3/8 ratchet looked so sad in the import junk bin at the local tool store. I talked them down a little because it was rusty, and only ratcheted one way not very well. Full of hardened grease, but a good cleaning didn't fix it. the selector was wobbly, so I drove the handle a bit deeper onto the shaft and repeined it. That action was now minty but it still hung up all the time. After much careful observation, taking it apart 9 times, and experimenting with harsh language, I concluded the the pawls were 0.002" too long, and the off side one was fouling the gear on the backswing.
Dressed the gear side tips with a file, and it works like a brand new tool. Now i'd say that this was a fluke, or a fix using the wrong kit...there is very little wear, its probably worked like **** for 50 years. But that wold be a wrong theory. I have a WF-21that was in daily use on my service truck for over a year, till it started hanging up. I got that out, filed the tips of the pawls, and it works perfect again too. So in conclusion, I don't know if the pawls lengthen with age, or the handles are shrinking, but it seems to be a real problem.
I also noticed the square drive is lower profile than any other ratchet I own, nicely chromed, and not ground down.
before, after coming soon
Dang that box is in much better shape than the pictures depicted. The flaring set looks much better after clean up. That is a nice piece to have. I think Ragz has a set of those as well. Is there any date codes on the tools?Here is my little mail present to myself:
The box was in better condition than I thought it would be, only issue there is a bit of delamination on the bottom. Nothing a little glue won't fix. The flare tools were a bit more rusty than I would like, but a night in evaporust did its job, and now they sit in a light oil rub. Between the box and the rarity, I couldn't pass them up after I saw what the hex sockets went for. They were also used in a trade I studied so I have that going for me. Which is nice.
Neat acquisition, Beemer! I have to admit I have never seen that type of flaring kit before. Whether screw or hammer type, I am used to seeing a clamp. I'm guessing those threads on the tool are for the fitting/connector on a line? So you essentially put that ******-shaped anvil on the opening at the end of a tube and slide the fitting up and screw the fitting on to the tool to stabilize everything and square the tool up to the line, then use the crossbar to make the flare with screwing force? Then screw the tool back off?
Aha. Cool. Thanks.bwmrd0 said:
