Puget Dude’s creations and fabrications (Random project thread.)
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larry4406
Well-known member
So are the stair graspable handrails gonna be rebar?
Code indicates #10 (1.25" diameter) thru #16 (2" diameter) would suffice...
Code indicates #10 (1.25" diameter) thru #16 (2" diameter) would suffice...
Larry, I have done rebar rails before, probably will do 1-1/4" pipe this time around. (1.66"OD) with either **** welded elbows or Kee fittings.
The existing handrail is a peeled log pole. It definitely needs to be replaced with a "Mountain Industrial" railing design of some sort.
Natural wood, metal accents, welded wire... right down my alley. Throw in the ability to add some diamond plate accents and I was all in. 
Damn that really was right down your alley. When I saw the before, and the first pictures of your pine I didn't think I would like it. I was wrong. It looks great and it has your signature all over it.
Damn that really was right down your alley. When I saw the before, and the first pictures of your pine I didn't think I would like it. I was wrong. It looks great and it has your signature all over it.
Ya-Ya-Yaaaaaa, looks good Scott.........but once again where's the damn rebar??
You know a real man of your creativity would $hitcan the deer antler lamp and create a faux deer antler lamp out of rebar.....that way you stay compliant with the Basis of Design.
You know a real man of your creativity would $hitcan the deer antler lamp and create a faux deer antler lamp out of rebar.....that way you stay compliant with the Basis of Design.
I built that big antler lamp 20+ years ago out of elk and mule deer sheds I picked up on the ranch in Wyoming and whitetail sheds from Washington, Idaho and Missouri. The wiring is completely hidden, it runs inside the antlers. Used a tomato cage for the form, cut it out after all the antlers were screwed together.
Rebar probably would have been easier.
Look, I’m not trying to discount your younger hornier years by any means.
You’re older now, those memories are important.
But you set the bar, and that damn bar includes an R and gawt damn E.
Don’t disappoint us
Minor 5-figure $$$$$ diversion...
Had to replace my entire HVAC system at the summer place. Compressor STB.
Turns out the return air system was undersized/restricted during the original build 17 years ago, so that is going to be reworked as well.
Small local company, 5 man crew, I was really impressed with their work. Got lucky with timing- they had a break in their schedule, equipment was in stock at the supply house; he sent me the estimate on Monday night , it was done by noon on Wednesday.
The big swinging **** HVAC company up here (that did the initial installation..) was 2-3 weeks out and over 60% higher on their bid.
Lesson learned.
Had to replace my entire HVAC system at the summer place. Compressor STB.
Turns out the return air system was undersized/restricted during the original build 17 years ago, so that is going to be reworked as well.
Small local company, 5 man crew, I was really impressed with their work. Got lucky with timing- they had a break in their schedule, equipment was in stock at the supply house; he sent me the estimate on Monday night , it was done by noon on Wednesday.
The big swinging **** HVAC company up here (that did the initial installation..) was 2-3 weeks out and over 60% higher on their bid.
Lesson learned.
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Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Well, that's something you shouldn't have to worry about for some time. And I'm sure it's going to work a whole helluva lot better than the previous set-up.
I sure hope you're right. We elected to go-ahead and replace the gas furnace section as well as the AC condensor/ air handler, since it was also 17 years old- and is located in the crawl space at the opposite end of the house from the access door. 70'+ of bent over crab walk for access. Not a pleasant service call.Well, that's something you shouldn't have to worry about for some time. And I'm sure it's going to work a whole helluva lot better than the previous set-up.
M.Brane
ALLIANCE MEMBER
We had ours replaced recently too though there was originally no A/C just the 50+ year old furnace that was still working fine. Curious to see the next Edison bill since we've been thoroughly enjoying it.
I'd have been tempted to see about cutting in an access hatch in the floor in that area. May not be feasible depending on the floor type though.
When we remodeled, they had a cutout at the far end of the house in the den floor for access to the crawl space. Now, it's covered with carpet so not too easy to get to if ever needed. Too bad we didn't add a regular access in the foundation on that side.
Of course, the new interior loft railings mean we have to replace the log rails on the outside porch off the loft....
Had to make a quick trip down to Phoenix for a doctor appointment, so I took the opportunity to pick up the 12' long rectangular steel tubing and a 16' cattle panel at Tractor Supply.
Since I also need to get the 12' long railing weldment to and from powdercoat, I decided to build a hitch extender for my overly large truck with the ridiculously short bed....used some 2x2 tubing and diamond plate out of the drop pile for the folding extension, a 4' long piece of bed rail for the crossbar, and two chain links for the tie downs. the extension gets me out out to 10' on the RAM, 9' on the Colorado. I jumped up and down on the end a few times for a proof test in lieu of finite element analysis.
Picked up the tube steel at American Metals in Mesa. 1.5"x 3" x. 060" x 20' lengths were $49.20 each, cut to 12' long for transport. Industrial Metals in Phoenix quoted $98.50 each plus a cut charge. ( FYI @rattle_snake...)
Stopped at TSC on the way back for the 4x4 x16' cattle panel. Cut it to 12' long in the parking lot with my 3" Ryobi cutoff tool. (@Jgaz ...
)
114°F outside, 76°F in my new shop. Did the cuts outside with my Evolution Cold Saw, then moved everything inside for fit up and assembly.
Built 2 sections, one at ~12' and one at ~6' long.
Added a few weld tabs for a wooden top rail.
Loaded up and ready to go to the powdercoater up in Snowflake, AZ tomorrow.
More to come.
Had to make a quick trip down to Phoenix for a doctor appointment, so I took the opportunity to pick up the 12' long rectangular steel tubing and a 16' cattle panel at Tractor Supply.
Since I also need to get the 12' long railing weldment to and from powdercoat, I decided to build a hitch extender for my overly large truck with the ridiculously short bed....used some 2x2 tubing and diamond plate out of the drop pile for the folding extension, a 4' long piece of bed rail for the crossbar, and two chain links for the tie downs. the extension gets me out out to 10' on the RAM, 9' on the Colorado. I jumped up and down on the end a few times for a proof test in lieu of finite element analysis.
Picked up the tube steel at American Metals in Mesa. 1.5"x 3" x. 060" x 20' lengths were $49.20 each, cut to 12' long for transport. Industrial Metals in Phoenix quoted $98.50 each plus a cut charge. ( FYI @rattle_snake...)
Stopped at TSC on the way back for the 4x4 x16' cattle panel. Cut it to 12' long in the parking lot with my 3" Ryobi cutoff tool. (@Jgaz ...
)114°F outside, 76°F in my new shop. Did the cuts outside with my Evolution Cold Saw, then moved everything inside for fit up and assembly.
Built 2 sections, one at ~12' and one at ~6' long.
Added a few weld tabs for a wooden top rail.
Loaded up and ready to go to the powdercoater up in Snowflake, AZ tomorrow.
More to come.
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larry4406
Well-known member
Nice fab! Sharp looking design.
Those hitch extenders are very handy. I have an Ericson Big Bed Senior Extender. It folds up nice and the carry handle is properly placed to balance the unit.
Those hitch extenders are very handy. I have an Ericson Big Bed Senior Extender. It folds up nice and the carry handle is properly placed to balance the unit.
gearhead1960
ALLIANCE MEMBER
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Scott, you sure made short work of those railings. You need to come by my place, my wife has been on me to make a handrail for the front porch of our house and although it's been on my "to do" list, it has been relatively low on that list. That is until I watched my older brother come up our front steps the other day when he was dropping off some produce and saw him struggle getting back down them as his balance is not the greatest lately. My FIL also struggles going up and down our front steps so my wife usually has him come in through our garage where we have handrails.
The wife and I discussed at dinner the other night that winter is right around the corner and I have a lot of personal projects that I have been putting off and she suggested maybe I put a hold on taking on side work for a bit until I get our stuff caught up. I think she may be right, so I need to make a materials list and get some steel ordered. Your work is inspiring.
The wife and I discussed at dinner the other night that winter is right around the corner and I have a lot of personal projects that I have been putting off and she suggested maybe I put a hold on taking on side work for a bit until I get our stuff caught up. I think she may be right, so I need to make a materials list and get some steel ordered. Your work is inspiring.
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The strength in that hitch extender is all in the diamond plate you know... 
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Mike, I finished them up 24 hours after I picked up the steel. (including knocking off at 4:00PM to shower before going out to dinner with friends) on Tuesday . Fabrication was very simple-, I capped the end of the 1.5 x 3 rtubing with some 14 gauge sheet stock, used simple, **** joints on the frames, already had the weld tabs. The welded wire took longer to fit and weld than the frames. We were only in Phoenix for a couple of days so I had to hustle and get them done. Ground the frame welds flush witha nice new Walter 36 grit flap disc (thanks @LXCam ), then gave them a quick once-over with an old 120 grit flap disc. Satin black powder coat hides a lot of evil...
Dropped them off at the powdercoater this morning, should be done early next week. Then we'll get to see how they fit....
If I was closer I'd be honored to build railings for you.
bugnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Scott nice work!
@larry4406 my wallet twitches now, thanks
@larry4406 my wallet twitches now, thanks
Damn you @larry4406 you just made me add something on Ricky's list of needs/wants....
SilverJimmy
Well-known member
I noticed that the garage doors in your new shop are not insulated. Are you planning on adding insulation or not a concern. Do those doors face north so no direct sunlight (blast furnace effect) to deal with? Your railings look great and I’m going to steal the cattle panel for a fence I want to build for a orchard yard to keep the deer and javelina out of it.
The doors are insulated, Sterling. They're flush woodgrain steel faced, vinyl wrapped foam back. Wayne Dalton 9100 Series.
I had the shop foamed to R-19 in the walls and R38+ in the ceilings, no way I was going to use an 8x16 uninsulated south-facing door.
It was 114 outside, 76 inside when i did the work. 3 ton Mitsubishi mini split compressor with a conventional Trane condensor/air handler. Opened the garage door an inch or so and turned on the 750CFM exhaust fan when I was welding.
SilverJimmy
Well-known member
I want to put two mini splits into my shop when I can afford it. Over the last month or two it’ll get up to high 80’s low 90’s towards the afternoon. It would be nice to not be uncomfortable while working, and it’ll be nice to have the heat available in the winter. Any recommendations for my 4990 sq ft shop as to mini split sizing?
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Given the high ceilings, your location and the low R rating of the insulation, I would estimate the tonnage at about 400 square feet per ton or about 16.5 tons of cooling total. But for sure get a professional estimate.
YMMV
Edit: FYI, 1 ton = 12,000 BTU
YMMV
Edit: FYI, 1 ton = 12,000 BTU
ptt49er
Well-known member
I'm at 1200 sq ft with 12' ceilings, stick framed. One long wall and one short wall insulated. Other short wall has an insulated 20' garage door and other long wall has a lean to. Bonus room overhead that's insulated and conditioned and insulation in the ceiling. Running a 24k btu Mr. Cool mini and it seems to keep up pretty well. Struggles a bit on the hottest days of the summer but still keeps it under 78. (normal set point in summer is 75)
All in, the insulation and minisplit are the best investments I've put into my shop. Makes it much more inviting to use year round!
I got tired of dragging out an extension cord every time I use my Makita sliding compound miter saw. The factory cord was coming apart, I have been patching it with electrical tape, both liquid and from a roll. I didn't feel like pulling the saw structure apart to rewire it. The first foot or so of the cord was still good, so I spliced it with an inline connector and put a 50' cord on it.
I had 50' of 16-3 cord that is very flexible and doesn't seem to have a memory. The splice is (allegedly)
waterproof, and the wago-style connection was really simple to use.
The 50' cord shouldn't be an issue, the saw lives on a Ridgid saw stand, and the cord wraps up nicely out of the way for storage.
This Makita saw was one on my best tool purchases. It's performed flawlessly for over 20 years, I bought it as reconditioned for $299 from... ( of all places)... Harbor Freight.
More to come.
I had 50' of 16-3 cord that is very flexible and doesn't seem to have a memory. The splice is (allegedly)waterproof, and the wago-style connection was really simple to use.
The 50' cord shouldn't be an issue, the saw lives on a Ridgid saw stand, and the cord wraps up nicely out of the way for storage.
This Makita saw was one on my best tool purchases. It's performed flawlessly for over 20 years, I bought it as reconditioned for $299 from... ( of all places)... Harbor Freight.
More to come.