ntsqd
Well-known member
I'm disappointed that the panel doesn't follow the curve of the 'housing'.
J/K, that's a great use for that otherwise useless dash feature.
J/K, that's a great use for that otherwise useless dash feature.
rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1
- Thread starter rattle_snake
- Start date
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Thanks guys. Lots more wiring to go, I keep changing my mind on how to physically implement the same circuits. Glad I didn't start without a plan.
Received a few sets of replacement poly bushing for the 72 Ford. The traction bar has a hard life and both axle end bushing were sloppy, so swapped out the upper set and now all is tight. I also moved the upper axle position to the upper hole as it will put less leverage on the bushing for same axle torque. Won't alter the instant center.
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And while I was there I swapped out the track bar heim joints. They don't last long, this is already 3rd set in 3k miles, so need to go to a rebuildable joint like a johnny, ballistic or other. The ruff stuff heims are imports maybe these FK will be better. other than banging noises there was no indication while driving, no death wobble. Likely because the track bar is flat, no bump steer so vertical movement is not transferred to horizontal steering/track bar. Something about SIN function approaching zero and stuff.
I also removed most of the rest of the bend in the track bar, as it is not needed, and with opposite threaded joints can be adjusted in less than integer turns now.
Received a few sets of replacement poly bushing for the 72 Ford. The traction bar has a hard life and both axle end bushing were sloppy, so swapped out the upper set and now all is tight. I also moved the upper axle position to the upper hole as it will put less leverage on the bushing for same axle torque. Won't alter the instant center.
[\img]
And while I was there I swapped out the track bar heim joints. They don't last long, this is already 3rd set in 3k miles, so need to go to a rebuildable joint like a johnny, ballistic or other. The ruff stuff heims are imports maybe these FK will be better. other than banging noises there was no indication while driving, no death wobble. Likely because the track bar is flat, no bump steer so vertical movement is not transferred to horizontal steering/track bar. Something about SIN function approaching zero and stuff.
I also removed most of the rest of the bend in the track bar, as it is not needed, and with opposite threaded joints can be adjusted in less than integer turns now.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
I had that same thought first time it dropped in. Just need a metal shrinker and radiused switches.
Then when in place I realized the release button couldn't be full depressed, so shoved the panel in deep, problem solved.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Still improving my HF pipe kinker. Last round of mods worked well, reinforcing the bottom. Last time on 1.5 x 0.25 DOM it deformed, now it is solid. While I was messing with it I made another set of support dies, as the kinker has only rollers to support the tubing. These spread load and remove the dent it otherwise leaves.
even though they will get beat up I had to paint to match, and drilled a hole..
..to mount on the wall with the rest of the lower dies. Will contiue to make other sizes as needed.
even though they will get beat up I had to paint to match, and drilled a hole..
..to mount on the wall with the rest of the lower dies. Will contiue to make other sizes as needed.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Figured I would show off my new nuts. Nuts have an important role in life, and come in many shapes and sizes.
I find the engineering and physics of fasteners interesting. Lately I've payed more attention to how the OEMs do things and they rarely use a regular nut 'n bolt. Many are flange head, captive washer, or other types. Few loose washers to get lost, no ny-locks, mostly hex head. Plastic pins, clips and so on. A lot is driven by cost, but also ease of reuse or minimal BOM.
So I bought a range of flange nuts to replace a nut/washer(s) combo. 10-24 to 1/2-13. They are also serrated so could be considered to replace nut/flat/lock, or lock-tite. Overkill for many applications, so cheap nuts still have there place.
Keps washers are still useful for improved electrical conductivity. I like shiny SS but they can gall and seize easily, which can be mitigated with antiseize. In a desert climate SS isn't really needed.
I find the engineering and physics of fasteners interesting. Lately I've payed more attention to how the OEMs do things and they rarely use a regular nut 'n bolt. Many are flange head, captive washer, or other types. Few loose washers to get lost, no ny-locks, mostly hex head. Plastic pins, clips and so on. A lot is driven by cost, but also ease of reuse or minimal BOM.
So I bought a range of flange nuts to replace a nut/washer(s) combo. 10-24 to 1/2-13. They are also serrated so could be considered to replace nut/flat/lock, or lock-tite. Overkill for many applications, so cheap nuts still have there place.
Keps washers are still useful for improved electrical conductivity. I like shiny SS but they can gall and seize easily, which can be mitigated with antiseize. In a desert climate SS isn't really needed.
larry4406
Well-known member
I like flange nuts. Work well with sockets.
86turbodsl
Well-known member
Yeah i prefer flange nuts too. We throw out a metric ton of them at work, sometimes i bring them home.
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
Excellent photos of your nuts.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Open yer drawers and yer nuts will be exposed.... 
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
They really do glisten, don't they?
Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Normally, I would take offense at someone showing off their nuts, but after looking at the appropriate photo, I will make an exception in this case!
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Ok well I guess I will skip posting about rod & shaft storage, use and handling.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Back to rock light and isolated battery wiring on the old Ford. After much deliberation decided on a path and got started. Fiddled with light placement, committed and cleaned the undercoat off, painted. The lights use magnets to adhere so surface needed to be clean and flat. Instead of 'home run' style wiring that this kit was designed for, I decided to make some branches with connectors to not impede removal of the bed, cab, fenders and so on that 8 home run wires would inherently do.
But first I modified the relay box power wiring. No need to fuse at this location, replaced with a simple wire of correct length.
Ended up using 4 runs (3 shown here) out of the box to the various lights.
Tried out these small 2 pin screw terminal connectors. Used a few in appropriate places to make branches or allow disassembly.
But first I modified the relay box power wiring. No need to fuse at this location, replaced with a simple wire of correct length.
Ended up using 4 runs (3 shown here) out of the box to the various lights.
Tried out these small 2 pin screw terminal connectors. Used a few in appropriate places to make branches or allow disassembly.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
With Isolated battery system plan finalized, time to run wiring. Using power from the high power audio system, 2 ga to main battery. Was able to use one of the open position in distribution block.
Through floor with a 10 ga SAE 2 pin pigtail. This is so bed or cab can be removed with un-wiring things. Bed is also grounded through this connection, though cab-to-chassis cable.
Isolated battery is a 30 AH motorcycle bat. Mounted in corner pocked space that is otherwise wasted due to spare tire. Some changes to be made to protect the open terminals. But will work for now.
I needed a way to get wiring from bed front to back. Ended up using 1/2 EMT under the bed rail as a condiut. secured with P clamp on back of stake posts.
Back post not exposed to secure so made a bracket to hold that end.
Rear panel yet to go, but getting close.
Through floor with a 10 ga SAE 2 pin pigtail. This is so bed or cab can be removed with un-wiring things. Bed is also grounded through this connection, though cab-to-chassis cable.
Isolated battery is a 30 AH motorcycle bat. Mounted in corner pocked space that is otherwise wasted due to spare tire. Some changes to be made to protect the open terminals. But will work for now.
I needed a way to get wiring from bed front to back. Ended up using 1/2 EMT under the bed rail as a condiut. secured with P clamp on back of stake posts.
Back post not exposed to secure so made a bracket to hold that end.
Rear panel yet to go, but getting close.
ntsqd
Well-known member
We use those little green connectors at my old/new work. They're fine inside, but I worry about corrosion on a vehicle, particularly under it. Maybe something sealed like Metri-Packs, or Deutsch's?
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
There are a few in the engine compartment and given my climate corrosion isn't a concern. I used weatherpacks under the chassis, but they are big and don't have screw terminals. Rock light system is non-mission critical, if it was safety related I would do something more robust.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Round 2 of truck bed control panel. On 1st round one hole was too big due to CAD error, but went ahead and bent it up to see how corners would come out. I was aligning the centerline with outer edge of press finger, but finger is flat on bottom for 1/8 or so and bends were too far out.
Fixed the drawing and cut up some more 16 ga. on plasma. This time I added another guide line back from center, so centerline is centered in press and I can still see a parallel line.
Press ram has great spot for magnetic light,
It folded itself into this.
Corners came out ok.
Test fit in truck bed
Loaded it up for some instant gratification.
Next step is mounting provisions, prep and paint. Going to paint it green like the body.
Fixed the drawing and cut up some more 16 ga. on plasma. This time I added another guide line back from center, so centerline is centered in press and I can still see a parallel line.
Press ram has great spot for magnetic light,
It folded itself into this.
Corners came out ok.
Test fit in truck bed
Loaded it up for some instant gratification.
Next step is mounting provisions, prep and paint. Going to paint it green like the body.
MadeByMiller
Well-known member
Very nice!
Boosted1
Well-known member
Very nice! I like it.
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
Very neat work!!
ntsqd
Well-known member
Very tidy.
I wish that my sheet metal projects would just fold themselves like that. I always seem to mess up at least one bend.
I wish that my sheet metal projects would just fold themselves like that. I always seem to mess up at least one bend.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
haha the 'last' bend. because after that bend it's in the scrap pile.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Mixed a very small batch of green paint to spray a few items including the new switch panel.
installed the components and wired it up daisy chain style
Left wiring long to ease access for modifications. Installed a ground stud in an existing hole inside the steak pocket.
Reworked the battery mount to address shortcomings and exposed terminals. Spun battery 180* to get the terminals tucked in. Made a new upper piece out of 1/8 mild with a tab to mount solenoid rotated so bus bars aren't on top. Added another fastener.
used some hose to cover exposed terminals.
Pic in the sun. The lower power connector is high current for audio system. 10 ga to battery. The upper one is for camper shell power, lights/fan. SPDT switch is for the rear 2 rock lights, can group with rest or run only back two on Iso battery.
installed the components and wired it up daisy chain style
Left wiring long to ease access for modifications. Installed a ground stud in an existing hole inside the steak pocket.
Reworked the battery mount to address shortcomings and exposed terminals. Spun battery 180* to get the terminals tucked in. Made a new upper piece out of 1/8 mild with a tab to mount solenoid rotated so bus bars aren't on top. Added another fastener.
used some hose to cover exposed terminals.
Pic in the sun. The lower power connector is high current for audio system. 10 ga to battery. The upper one is for camper shell power, lights/fan. SPDT switch is for the rear 2 rock lights, can group with rest or run only back two on Iso battery.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Fixed on some other small items that just never got done right. Replacing regular nuts with Rivnuts.
Added a 2nd bolt to secure A/C drier, and some captive stand offs to make removal easier.
A missed a few small items in paint job so used the opportunity to redo the door jam switches and the windshield wiper nozzles.
Then on to eliminating rattles. Did some grill repair to get all 6 mount points solid. Replaced the broken plastic clips with Rivnuts. One mount had been cut off to install a trans cooler. I made a patch and riveted it on.
One insert had a broke off flange, so did a repair in aluminum with slots to lock into plastic. Then some epoxy for good measure.
Found a loose headlight mount, and all the green fender bolts were not tightened. Still a buzz at times. Last item (for now) was the left turn lens was buzzing on grill shell. stuffed a piece of rubber in gap. Quiet for now.
Was a beautiful day so worked on the truck outside the shop.
Added a 2nd bolt to secure A/C drier, and some captive stand offs to make removal easier.
A missed a few small items in paint job so used the opportunity to redo the door jam switches and the windshield wiper nozzles.
Then on to eliminating rattles. Did some grill repair to get all 6 mount points solid. Replaced the broken plastic clips with Rivnuts. One mount had been cut off to install a trans cooler. I made a patch and riveted it on.
One insert had a broke off flange, so did a repair in aluminum with slots to lock into plastic. Then some epoxy for good measure.
Found a loose headlight mount, and all the green fender bolts were not tightened. Still a buzz at times. Last item (for now) was the left turn lens was buzzing on grill shell. stuffed a piece of rubber in gap. Quiet for now.
Was a beautiful day so worked on the truck outside the shop.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I have to tell ya Justin, I liked the panels and brackets in raw aluminum but I absolutely LOVE them in body color. Great job. 
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
New switch panel turned out awesome, disappears with the color.
XJSuperman
Well-known member
Really enjoying the switch panels. I'm suddenly feeling the need to up my game in this field. Wow.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Thanks guys! A bit over the top but what the hell. Putting in some time learning fusion 360, CAM, and bends.
Brakes are leaking badly again. The delay block I replaced with a simple 'T' is leaking at the fittings. Have to blow it apart and redo some double flares, bleed, rinse repeat. Not my favorite thing to work on.
Want to get it out and enjoy before I cut into it again for track bar mount and sway bar.
Tweaking fuel map to resolve idle load transitions is on the table now too. Have to learn the Holley system and datalog.
Brakes are leaking badly again. The delay block I replaced with a simple 'T' is leaking at the fittings. Have to blow it apart and redo some double flares, bleed, rinse repeat. Not my favorite thing to work on.
Want to get it out and enjoy before I cut into it again for track bar mount and sway bar.
Tweaking fuel map to resolve idle load transitions is on the table now too. Have to learn the Holley system and datalog.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
I have a rigid 345DL. 3/16 size is the only one without ribs to help hold the tube. The green PFV coating on the tubing makes it slick and makes double flares difficult. Have to clean off the coating and inspect carefully.
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
I've got the Eastwood set you could use, but it has to be done on the bench (off the truck).
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Thank you. There is an isolator on top of the little battery. Eaton 1314A. There are a few flavors. Basically when main battery voltage gets above 13.something (engine must be running to do this) it closes the contacts and charges the isolated battery. Else switch is open.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Racked the truck and found the offending brake fitting leak. The nut was not super tight yet so I gave it a bit more but no change. Given the block is brass I don't want to over torque and crack it. Not many threads either. Should have done all three last time but only one was leaking. then. poo.
So I used my avoidance tactics and found other things to fart with. Transfer case PTO reseal/reinforcement was successful but discovered a leaking from a bolt on the idler shaft cover. It was above fluid level so cleaned bolt/hole and used RTV instead of Aviation gasket goo.
Now that engine no longer has major oil leak I found that dipstick flange is leaking some. Going to ignore that for now....
Rear axle breather hose was too short with additional down travel from new springs, so replaced with a longer piece of hose. Spring pack separates at full droop so maybe a limit straps would make sense.
When I ran rock light wiring I just taped the one additional wire to the main chassis harness, knowing that I wasn't good enough. Was never happy with location and how the wiring is secured, changed a few times now but still not right. So removed all the stacked p-clamps and put a braided sleeve over the harness to bundle the new wire. Moved wire harness from top of frame to bottom, which now matches last 5 feet or so by fuel tank. Drilled and tapped holes in the frame in appropriate locations so just a SS screw can be used. No nut, washer. P clamps are a ***** to get on a stud given their springy nature, especially when the stud/screw is loose. Clamp can be compressed and the screw inserted to hold clamp shut, then install. Ran out of sleeve so will do the rest later.
So I used my avoidance tactics and found other things to fart with. Transfer case PTO reseal/reinforcement was successful but discovered a leaking from a bolt on the idler shaft cover. It was above fluid level so cleaned bolt/hole and used RTV instead of Aviation gasket goo.
Now that engine no longer has major oil leak I found that dipstick flange is leaking some. Going to ignore that for now....
Rear axle breather hose was too short with additional down travel from new springs, so replaced with a longer piece of hose. Spring pack separates at full droop so maybe a limit straps would make sense.
When I ran rock light wiring I just taped the one additional wire to the main chassis harness, knowing that I wasn't good enough. Was never happy with location and how the wiring is secured, changed a few times now but still not right. So removed all the stacked p-clamps and put a braided sleeve over the harness to bundle the new wire. Moved wire harness from top of frame to bottom, which now matches last 5 feet or so by fuel tank. Drilled and tapped holes in the frame in appropriate locations so just a SS screw can be used. No nut, washer. P clamps are a ***** to get on a stud given their springy nature, especially when the stud/screw is loose. Clamp can be compressed and the screw inserted to hold clamp shut, then install. Ran out of sleeve so will do the rest later.
Boosted1
Well-known member
I have used the Eastwood "deluxe" flaring tool set with success. It was pricey, but very nice to use. Clamps in vice for secure work.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Justin, decades ago I fought with properly flaring fittings which resulted in leaks and failure points. I will admit, some of it was me being new to the tubing game but I found early on the benefits of a nice quality flaring tool. I kind of went off the deep end when I was building street rods, race cars and sand rails and ended up buying several so now making flares is a joy and one I am very confident in when plumbing vehicles.
My oldest sets are both the Blue Point and Eastman flaring kits and about 15 or so years ago I added a Mastercool flaring tool to the arsenal. The Eastman probably saw the most use of all of them and is a high quality tool. I also very much like the Mastercool set. The Blue Point was purchased as a back-up for work but is still a nice set but just hasn't seen the use since bringing it to the home shop.
From left to right; Mastercool, Blue Point and Eastman FS2000.
My oldest sets are both the Blue Point and Eastman flaring kits and about 15 or so years ago I added a Mastercool flaring tool to the arsenal. The Eastman probably saw the most use of all of them and is a high quality tool. I also very much like the Mastercool set. The Blue Point was purchased as a back-up for work but is still a nice set but just hasn't seen the use since bringing it to the home shop.
From left to right; Mastercool, Blue Point and Eastman FS2000.
slodat
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Another vote for the Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool. I wouldn't be without it. The other part of the process that helped me immensely was this Eastwood brake line deburring tool. A small inner and outer chamfer makes all the difference. I bought all the accessory dies for the Mastercool. Well worth the price.
Boosted1
Well-known member
I'll second the tool with the die blocks and use of demurring tool prior to forming.