rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[OutlawDrifter]

So when should I send my prints for cutting?

You'll be fab'ing up all kinds of stuff now! Does everything get new bumpers?

 

[slodat]

This is an awesome stage of the build! Fire that torch, make some sparks and see what she does!

Enjoy! This is a total game changer. I think you'll love the Langmuir!

 

[ntsqd]

Backing up to this pic, is that a Warn hawse fairlead? If not, whose is it?

On the threads engaged thing, I've been told by some vet Engineers that "you only get three threads" and that anything after that is lost/wasted/etc. Their operating theory is that only three threads make contact because of minor variations in the male and the female threads.
I'm of the opinion that when the load gets high enough that those three threads will distort until more threads come to bear, proceeding with more and more thread engagement until there are enough threads loaded to take the stress below the level needed to distort the most ductile of the two materials.

As to the fully threaded bung vs. partially threaded bung I suspect it's a cost thing. It's another operation to flip the bung around to bore the threads out of being under the weld zone and that takes time so it costs money.

 

[rattle_snake]

So when should I send my prints for cutting?

You'll be fab'ing up all kinds of stuff now! Does everything get new bumpers?

Hopefully soon. Have some research and learning to do first. What did you have in mind? targets?

Going to fab the same stuff, but now my robot with a steady hand will be doing the work.
No bumpers planned as of now, but some suspension stuff for old Ford.

This is an awesome stage of the build! Fire that torch, make some sparks and see what she does!

Enjoy! This is a total game changer. I think you'll love the Langmuir!

That's the plan. make fire and smoke and see what happens.
I think so too. Have the machine work for me. Looking forward to NOT drilling holes manually. cut clean weld.

Backing up to this pic, is that a Warn hawse fairlead? If not, whose is it?

On the threads engaged thing, I've been told by some vet Engineers that "you only get three threads" and that anything after that is lost/wasted/etc. Their operating theory is that only three threads make contact because of minor variations in the male and the female threads.
I'm of the opinion that when the load gets high enough that those three threads will distort until more threads come to bear, proceeding with more and more thread engagement until there are enough threads loaded to take the stress below the level needed to distort the most ductile of the two materials.

As to the fully threaded bung vs. partially threaded bung I suspect it's a cost thing. It's another operation to flip the bung around to bore the threads out of being under the weld zone and that takes time so it costs money.

Yes that is a Warn hawse fairlead from an Evo 12 with synthetic rope.

On threads I have heard that as the first three fail the rest get shock loaded and fail. Can't say I've seen anything pull threads out from tension only myself. But I'm good at cross threading with an impact.

For this particular size, 7/8-** in a 1" ID DOM leaves very little material, (0.0625"), so heat distortion is a problem. The Ruff stuff ends solve this with back bore as you have said.

 

[ntsqd]

Thanks!

Go with a thicker walled tube and thread it directly. To get wrench flats rather than milling two flats into the tube I take a big nut and soak it in white vinegar if plated, then bore it to a locational slip-fit on the tube size. I skip-weld it - every other flat while offsetting the flats from one side to the other (each flat ends up with a weld bead on one side only). Seems to work, done 6 or 8 of them that way. Can only recall once where I needed to chase the threads after welding.
The LH taps in particular can get spendy, those that I've bought I got from either McMaster or Travers.

 

[rattle_snake]

Wish I could thread directly like @lilscorpion... Need bigger lathe, tap, non-standard DOM. Some day...

 

[ntsqd]

Lathe? That does make it easier, but I've done it using a Milwaukee Hole-shooter for the tap drill, a big chinesium tap wrench, & the pipe jaws in my old vise.

 

[rattle_snake]

Cool, got me thinking of a better way to hold a square tap in a 3jaw/hex drill chuck. So looking at one of these. not big enought for 7/8 but useful in many other jobs. Thanks for helping me buy more tools

 

[zanyad]

Not 7/8" either, but this may be useful: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRFOE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks for link didn't quite know what those were.

Little burned out on truck and plasma project, so did some mindless tool organization last night. This helps me not be able to find things later. Still slowly working on putting only tools in main tool box and materials in steevo bench. Moving overfilled narrow drawers to the wider ones. Throwing out misc mixed fasteners as I try to build a more organized and plentiful stash. Did this long ago with bolts, now doing screws and other odds and ends. Replacing HF dividers with clear divider bins that can be pulled easily out of drawer and dug through on work bench. Have a few empty drawer, the new side cabinet helped with that. Still a way to go.
No exciting pictures.

 

[ntsqd]

I have a set of these: https://shop.snapon.com/product/Tap-Sockets-(1-4-3/8"-Drive)/8-pc-Tap-Socket-Set-(Blue-Point)/TDL8 that I use on smaller taps. Usually with one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QB80UH8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Those look the Lisle sockets; really handy to have for the price.

For big taps I'll typically just hold them in a 12pt socket. Obviously they aren't retained, but it works.

 

[ntsqd]

I used to do that with the bigger taps - even have some 8 point sockets, but it was always a bit awkward. I bought one of these to use with big and NPT taps, and I haven't looked back:

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/05040076

Could go with one of these, but I can't justify the difference.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/00265397

 

[slodat]

I picked up a NOS Greenfield No 7 tap wrench on ebay a couple years ago for a great price. Just looked an there are a lot of nice used for fair prices.

 

[Monza Harry]

Premium tap handles that go to 1" are few and far between the Starrett 91D is up to 3/4 and 3/8-NPT [?] only. I ended up with an import that has broken and been replaced a couple of times [I remade some parts with better material and then that just moved the failure point. Go Figure!] I have the 91A, 91B, 91C, & 91D, as well as the 93A,B,C,D,E&F. Starrett make a quality tap handle and I have twisted the Living $#!+ out of them for nearly 40 years with only 1 failure (Grit induced) covered under warranty. I however feed myself with these tools, for home use it is all as cheap as possible well until I retire then they all come home and the unneeded/duplicate will be "Rehomed". Harry

 

[rattle_snake]

Trying to squeeze a few more inches of room for plasma table. Had hoist between curtain and boat, but location of removable arms wasn't ideal so cut them off and moved.


**** packed in tight. soft curtain allows boat prop, hoist and table motors to protrude but still fit


Extended air piping on ceiling for a drop over plasma table. There were several ways to do air supply, I was rummaged though pipe rack and fitting stash and found I had everything I needed for this solution so it was meant to be. Ordered a 15' hose to connect to plasma machine.


And after those procrastination steps I put tools away and had to go sit in front of a 'puter and learn me some CAD/CAM stuff. Downloaded a random DFX and went through backend manufacturing steps to get a cuttable g-code. Debugged some issues with torch height control and finally got system to cut a scrap of 16 ga. Success. Even cut through part of ground clamp.
From there I created my own sketch and tried again on 3/16. Need to dial in things to get a decent cut but made a thing.

 

[rattle_snake]

Bump steer on old Ford was unacceptable with new steering setup. Needed to flatten out track bar, by raising axle side or lowering frame side. Frame side was originally a 3 hole bracket by I cut it down to 2 to not limit up-travel (6") by contacting tie rod. Can't use all the up-travel the suspension has due to the tire/sheet metal anyhow, so both options open.
I happened to have an extra axle bracket on hand, so it made sense to use it instead of creating something from scratch. Well, unless you have a CNC plasma and a press break. Was going to only add one more hole, but decided to go two incase one was not enough. Can cut off top hole if not needed easier than adding one twice.

Plan was to just copy contour of top down to bottom and melt together. To make it easier, I cut top off flat to give space to weld between bolt holes.


Ground a V on both sides for weld to sit in and have more contact area.


Welded it up and ground smooth. To reinforce, I added a gusset on back side that ties into the radius arm mount.


Plan to make an overlay plate on the front, back is sufficient with gusset.


Test drive in 4th hole was better. Behavior seemed opposite as before so I thought I had gone to far and needed 1/2" adjustment range. Before doing anything else I moved bar to uppermost hole and did test drive, perfect.
Both drag link and track bar are at 2* at ride height. Flattened track bar by 5-1/2" This reduces side to side axle movement due to suspension flex significantly. Axle end is close to frame now (~4") and might hit limit strap, so spaced it out as temp fix.


With geometry solved I centered axle, steering wheel and did a toe alignment. Drove truck to work this morning, 90 mph no hands on the wheel. Drives and handles great for a big tall pig on marshmallow tires.

 

[Bodj Built]

Be careful, I can see that bracket ripping at the weld where the heim enters. I'd make overlay plates with matching bolt holes and weld those on the sides and weld those on

 

[rattle_snake]

yes that is the plan. Back side is already gusseted to the top.


Still dialing in plasma machine settings. item above is cut at 27 A (max) and 20 ipm. Becoming more familiar with CAD/CAM tools. Round holes come out elliptical. Maybe time for new consumables or slower yet feed rate.

 

[Bodj Built]

yes that is the plan. Back side is already gusseted to the top.


Still dialing in plasma machine settings. item above is cut at 27 A (max) and 20 ipm. Becoming more familiar with CAD/CAM tools. Round holes come out elliptical. Maybe time for new consumables or slower yet feed rate.

What plasma cutter is that? If you don't have a hypertherm, I'd highly recommend getting one dedicated to the table. For a couple of years I was running a harbor freight 45A plasma cutter with the table and I was even able to cut 3/16" faster than that (27ipm), but it definitely did not have the balls to quickly pierce the material on the starts. It had to bore a hole, which constantly caused molten metal to splash up and destroy the tip. I hated that machine. It finally died and I upgraded to a Hypertherm 45xp. Night and day difference. I never have to worry about number of pierces I get out of a consumable. They are definitely more expensive, but in the almost year I've had the machine, I'm only on my second set of consumables. I was spending way more on the HF consumables and replacing them almost every time I turned the machine on. Keep your current machine as a hand held unit, but for sure upgrade the table cutter.


Side note, if the holes are not coming out round, either your torch isn't square to the work piece, your table isn't rigid enough, or something is screwed up with the software in the x or y direction so it's not traveling the correct distance.

 

[rattle_snake]

I'm using a Miller 375 that is rated at 27 A. So undersized for general CNC table, but working with what I have for now.

 

[MadeByMiller]

I second what @Bodj Built says. Double check that all of your couplers from the drive motors to the lead screws are nice and tight, I've seen some folks have trouble with them spinning. You can also temporarily disconnect the drive motors and move the axis by hand to ensure you don't have any binding throughout the travel due to a lack in parallelism or too tight of bearing blocks. Small internal holes like that it's recommended to cut at 60% of your profile cut speed.

 

[Smittybert]

I have a set of these: https://shop.snapon.com/product/Tap-Sockets-(1-4-3/8"-Drive)/8-pc-Tap-Socket-Set-(Blue-Point)/TDL8 that I use on smaller taps. Usually with one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QB80UH8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I’m pretty sure like 99% sure they are the same as the Lisle tap sockets as we have both at the shop. We have worn out one of the sockets as we use them on 1/4” impacts the metal is a little soft they are made from

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks for the info. Could be a backlash issue from loose coupler. Going to check and do a run with a sharpy and paper so see if it is cutter or table.
Looking at cut outs, the pierce lead in is still not quite sufficient but that would only effect one area not two like I see. Lots for me to learn on this.

 

[rattle_snake]

Hogged out the rest of the holes although none are useful and welded on the overlay plate.


Rattle can'd and back together. Just need to design a sway bar into the system. Bar diameter, arm length, frame and axle mounts....

 

[ntsqd]

I’m pretty sure like 99% sure they are the same as the Lisle tap sockets as we have both at the shop. We have worn out one of the sockets as we use them on 1/4” impacts the metal is a little soft they are made from

LOL, in spite of their color I don't think that they're intended to be driven with an impact of any size. Snap-On's whole Bluepoint line is normally sourced from other tool makers and not made in-house, so that they possibly are Lisle is not a surprise.

On the sway-bar topic, I got 75% done with one for the Valiant when it sold. Plan was aluminum split block 'bearings' thru-bolted to the chassis. I got those made from 1" square 6061 pieces that I thru drilled and then used some dowel pins in those holes to align them clamped sideways in the mill vise to bore the hole for the torsion tube. Torsion tube is/was a Ø1.125" x .06" piece of 4130 with 4130 flanges from ~10ga 4130 sheet welded to the ends. Lever arms were to bolt to those flanges. Note that round tube is not normally actually round, slightly oversize bores are likely needed.
Since I was shooting in the dark with regard to what lever length and tube OD was going to work the best I resolved to make it modular so that I could change the tube OD and length or possibly the lever length without having to remake everything.

EDIT: Found a jpg of the SW model for the sway-bar:

 

[lilscorpion]

Thanks for the info. Could be a backlash issue from loose coupler. Going to check and do a run with a sharpy and paper so see if it is cutter or table.
Looking at cut outs, the pierce lead in is still not quite sufficient but that would only effect one area not two like I see. Lots for me to learn on this.

To test Y/X backlash just cut a large-ish hole and measure the dimensions. Backlash will reveal itself within the test.

E.g. cut a 2” hole. Leave it on the table and measure X and Y dimensions with calipers. They should be (obviously) the same-ish

 

[rattle_snake]

I drained the water pan as I don't have any plasm cutting fluid yet. Tons of rust from just a few cuts. I did order a 5 gallon pail and it's on it's way. So going to wait before doing any more cuts.

I did go over the table and OCD'd all the roller tension settings. I don't think it was an issue but now all are as best as I can get. Did a dry run with a sharpy and plywood, table appears ok and draws a round hole. Consumables are good in torch.

As noted by others the supplied pan drains protrude up above pan floor so doesn't drain fully. Langmuir forum has a dimple die set floating around so will try to get ahold of it and put in flush sink drains.

 

[rattle_snake]

Tested out clearance of drag link and track bar/mount at full bump. have an inch of room so plenty. I had spaced out the limit strap just in case, but it puts leverage on the bolt. I removed the spacer, all is good.

 

[zmotorsports]

Justin, I had to do the exact same thing years ago on a build where I had linkages in the way and needed to space the limiting strap inboard/standing off the frame. I worried about the leverage exerted on the fastener but I couldn't move the limiting strap anchor in any further which would have been ideal, such as you did. I ended up building a small plate that I then welded to the frame but it captured the fastener for the limiting strap anchor in double shear. Worked like a charm. Just a thought if that would work better than relocating or for next time.






Nice clean work on the drag link/track bar alignment and doubler plate for the axle end. I use a lot of double plates for things like this but really wish I had a plasma table. Not sure if I would use it enough to justify but it looks like is sure makes quick work of such things.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

If it's just a standard dimple die you need for the drain, I've got a set you can borrow.

 

[rattle_snake]

That would be great thanks for offer! I'll send a txt.

I emptied and cleaned all the rust out the water pan last night in prep for some plasma juice, SteringCool.

 

[rattle_snake]

Had the welder set up for aluminum so built some bench frame brackets out of some scrap. Rec tube was in rough shape so I hit with flap wheel to give it a different look. Capped all the ends


Through drilled a few of the threaded binding holes to mount the wake boards to the frame. also used a few screws on edge to make assembly rigid.

 

[LXCam]

That's a great idea Justin. I was just looking at my old knee and wakeboard last week and I just can't bring myself to tossing them and all though the WB is totally usable, the kneeboard has seen better days. I might have to follow your lead bud.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

That's a cool idea, I dig it!

 

[plain2car]

agree with the above... now you just need the traditional tailgate "desk" but I guess with the a FORD tailgate!...

 

[rattle_snake]

Have a tailgate work bench outside for really dirty work like endless sanding and scrubbing filthy parts. Old Ford of course

 

[rattle_snake]

A few projects underway at Speed Metal Woodworks.

I picked up some rough cut 8/4+ Pine from a friend. He was doing side work for a guy building an elaborate home. Had a small saw mill on site, so traded labor for some lumber. I was looking for a little live edge but ended up with quite a bit more.


Initial plan was another outdoor workbench out of the wide piece, but Mrs. rattle_snake put in a request for a small desk in the house. Slab wasn't quite wide enough so I added another 4" or so. Yes I could have sliced up the large plank into little pieces that are flat and square, but style is crude so warpage accepted.


Next was a frame, kept it simple however using twisted lumber present problems when trying to build thing square. So some extra machining step to provide flat faces to glue to. Built it upside down on work table to keep it in a flat plane. Corner braces double as mounting provisions for the top. Screws are not really needed as everything is glued, but allow me to move forward quicker, minimal clamps. Could remove them all to please purists, but I don't care.


Got approval from inspector. However she had put in request for a drawer earlier, which engineering had denied. Could have gotten away without it but decided to do drawer anyway to take it to next level and make it more usable. Of course the drawer adds a lot of work, as you really need a squared/true opening to make it operate smooth. But everything is twisted and warped, challenge accepted.
So I cut out the front and kept cutout for drawer face.


Then lots of sanding and corner radius-ing to make it safe for inevitable small child faceplant. Bruise instead of stiches.
Drawer face just shimmed in at this point.


Built a drawer with a floating face so everything is adjustable. Cut out most of the drawer face to be able to fit a 14" ball bearing slide and overlap the forward edge. The live edge top makes for a variable front edge overhang so drawer needs to open as far as possible and not have a thick face to overcome. Else you cant even access drawer in the first 5" of opening. Want to be able to put a laptop or at least a notebook in it.


Next steps are to fit drawer and apply a finish. Needs to be hard to protect the soft pine from ball point pens and so on.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Desk project is looking awesome Justin!

 

[zanyad]

Next steps are to fit drawer and apply a finish. Needs to be hard to protect the soft pine from ball point pens and so on.

What about a glass top?