rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[rattle_snake]

Initial test fit of trans identified a few items to modify.
Modular starter (not used) 3rd bolt boss hit exhaust.


So I cut it off and smoothed out the area.


I was wondering why the engine adapter kit came with a starter. Tried stuffing my existing PMGR unit in and no go. Looking at them together I see the new one has no forward bearing support to fit in the shallow pocket machined into the adapter.


The upper bell housing bolts have a long boss and potential to interfere with firewall. Seemed like the time to fix, cut off 1/2". I left as much boss material as possible to support webbing inside.


Made a crude tool on the lathe in an attempt to machine the boss down. It worked OK for a short time, then was just a hassle. Now I can loosely claim I am a machinist and a 'tool maker' at that


I used a squared chunk of steel clamped to bell face and a combo square to check the angles of the cuts in both planes and was able to get them pretty straight with a flap wheel. Then cleaned up the whole flange.
Somehow things then got way out of hand and I went over the whole case and smoothed out the casting flashing and surface imperfections.


After a thorough cleaning I painted the case and converter.


My daughter asked why I was painting things no one will see when assembled. My only answer was, 'because no one is stopping me'.

 

[ntsqd]

"Shorty" is 2wd and has a blown 418, his crawler EB has a Ford Mosport 351W block based 460

I'm glad that I'm not the only one who knocks down the stuff that can hurt me.

 

[zmotorsports]

Looks awesome Justin. Nice job on the removing and blending of the bosses. Can't even tell they were there.

 

[rattle_snake]

Picked up a AN8 cooler line adapter that is pretty slick. Going to use 1/2" J1532 TOC hose.


Bolted up the trans and the TC adapter and it's starting to come together.


Slipped the TC on to check fitment and build a shifter mount.


Driveshaft double cardan cage clears trans case and pan.


Pulled the trans cross member to modify location of trans mount. Luckily it is same bolt spacing so I can use existing one.


The location moved back 6", which is somewhat of a magic number, as x-mem is 4" wide, so I just moved the existing mount to the back side. The guy who welded on the original mount completely welded every inch both side, corners, so a pain to remove. This time I put a few nice beads where they count. Might have to modify again, and could do in the chassis if needed. An of course turd polished the finish and fresh paint.

 

[LXCam]

Looking great Justin.

 

[rattle_snake]

Figured out where TC shifter needed to go and started to fab a boss similar to the old. Cut a hunk of 1.25" round stock and ground a flat for threading. Drilled and tapped a 5/8-12 threads.


made a tab to utilize and existing case mount and welded together.


Threaded smaller hole in case and but other was too big, so threaded the steel tab to secure.


Tight fit to case, but still out farther than the C6. Will see if it fits in floor hole.

 

[ntsqd]

Looks like it wants to be back in the truck!

Thanks for the SAE spec for the cooler hose. I looked it up and found that are two pressure ratings and two temperature ratings within that spec. That was surprising. I'd think that either pressure spec would be fine (150psi or 250psi), but that you'd want the higher temp version "AT" or "BT" (150°C vs. 125°C).

J1532_202106: Transmission Oil Cooler Hose - SAE International

This SAE Standard covers hose intended for use with automatic transmission cooling system applications. Type A hoses are intended for original equipment or replacement applications while Type B hoses are intended for aftermarket auxiliary cooler applications only. The reference fluid for tests requi

www.sae.org

Anyone happen to know if this hose works on Push-Lock type hose ends?

 

[rattle_snake]

Looks awesome Justin. Nice job on the removing and blending of the bosses. Can't even tell they were there.

Thanks I get a little carried away with the Rolocs. Have a filter and gasket on the way for service. Will weld in a bung for temp sensor and paint the pan while it's off.

Looking great Justin.

Thanks Cam!

Looks like it wants to be back in the truck!

Thanks for the SAE spec for the cooler hose. I looked it up and found that are two pressure ratings and two temperature ratings within that spec. That was surprising. I'd think that either pressure spec would be fine (150psi or 250psi), but that you'd want the higher temp version "AT" or "BT" (150°C vs. 125°C).

J1532_202106: Transmission Oil Cooler Hose - SAE International

This SAE Standard covers hose intended for use with automatic transmission cooling system applications. Type A hoses are intended for original equipment or replacement applications while Type B hoses are intended for aftermarket auxiliary cooler applications only. The reference fluid for tests requi

www.sae.org

Anyone happen to know if this hose works on Push-Lock type hose ends?

yes it does. Most all of the little stuff is done. Controller wiring to go and then test fit case in tunnel. What could go wrong?

Not sure about the push lock fitting. I'm using AN barb and oetiker clamps on trans end, and cooler has 1/2 barbs.

 

[Bob Heine]

Somehow things then got way out of hand and I went over the whole case and smoothed out the casting flashing and surface imperfections.

Justin, what you did makes perfect sense to me. You'll never get the chance to do it once it's installed. I heard some noise coming from the universals on the Corvette so I polished the axles while they were out. While I was at it, I polished the driveshaft and brace. If the transmission had to come out, I would have done what you did. I did the tailshaft while I was replacing the bushing and seal. No one is stopping me either.

 

[Mr.N]

Justin, who's flanges do you purchase for the 205?

 

[rattle_snake]

Justin, what you did makes perfect sense to me. You'll never get the chance to do it once it's installed. I heard some noise coming from the universals on the Corvette so I polished the axles while they were out. While I was at it, I polished the driveshaft and brace. If the transmission had to come out, I would have done what you did. I did the tailshaft while I was replacing the bushing and seal. No one is stopping me either.

Ok Bob you are making me feel more, 'normal', haha. Things have a way of ***********!

Justin, who's flanges do you purchase for the 205?

I think I got them from Tom Woods DS but I assume they source them elsewhere.

 

[rattle_snake]

Been working on a gas RV heater for my friend. Found a connector completely corroded, replaced and now it works.

Also working on his HF blast cabinet. Used lathe to make a tip adapter to run commercial blast tips. He is trying a new sand media and it clogs the suction tube. Also did some repairs to the frame. Earlier we did a removable glass mod and better lighting.

Started oil change on kids 125cc quad. Going to gift it to my BIL/SIL/nieces as my kids are big and only really want ride the Polaris 600.
Pulled drain plug nothing came out. pulled another bolt next to it and a spring and piston rod flew out. what order and orientation I do not know. Stuck a screw driver in drain and could get some oil out but not all. Strange....

 

[Ohmthis]

Justin, great job on the transmission upgrade! I’m very jealous of the time you get to tinker/play. Weird in the 125cc quad. Did it run right before the maintenance?

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Setup looks great sitting on the floor! Looking forward to seeing it installed.

 

[Bears Fan]

Justin, she sure is looking purdy

Merry Christmas

 

[harley jim]

Happy new year Justin!

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Such a great project! Was following this thread for a long time then got mixed up with thread on FTE. Clicked the Watch button now so I can keep track of it.

That 6R80 should make a huge difference.
I have the 6r80 4wd version in my '66 250 3.5 truck and really want to change it to 4x4. Be nice to just drop it off at your place and let me know when it's done! LOL
Gotta be going on 7 yrs now since I started project thinking really want that 4x4 . . Hate to finish it up only needing paint then decide after to do the 4x4 conversion.

 

[rattle_snake]

Justin, great job on the transmission upgrade! I’m very jealous of the time you get to tinker/play. Weird in the 125cc quad. Did it run right before the maintenance?

I was able to put in 10+ hours days in shop/yard over Christmas holiday, but wife not so happy about that.

Yes the 125 runs fine, I just wanted to service before gifting to my BIL/nieces and he is new to working on mechanical things, but willing to learn. I found a thread where other did same and figure out orientation of cam tensioner. I got him a Dewalt impact (dang better than my last gen brushless one) and some impact socket for his birthday, so he can swap sand paddles on this new-to-him Razor, and so on. Nieces are ecstatic and love to ride the machine.

Setup looks great sitting on the floor! Looking forward to seeing it installed.

Justin, she sure is looking purdy

Merry Christmas

Motor **** for sure. Good it's not just me that thinks it's ****. Hey if tractors can be **** so can a big block.

Happy new year Justin!

Thanks, happy new year to you too Jim!

Such a great project! Was following this thread for a long time then got mixed up with thread on FTE. Clicked the Watch button now so I can keep track of it.

That 6R80 should make a huge difference.
I have the 6r80 4wd version in my '66 250 3.5 truck and really want to change it to 4x4. Be nice to just drop it off at your place and let me know when it's done! LOL
Gotta be going on 7 yrs now since I started project thinking really want that 4x4 . . Hate to finish it up only needing paint then decide after to do the 4x4 conversion.

haha like you I'm time constrained. but would be quicker/easier 2nd round. I need to become independently wealthy then I can help you finish all your bad *** projects

4x4 swap really need body off/on to ensure fitment, so would make sense to do before/during paint. I would use a BW4418 manual shift TC that came behind the 6R in the F150s.
Edit, Given you have full electronics you could use electric shift even easier.

 

[rattle_snake]

With Dune trip postponed and raining weather preventing landscaping work, I put in a lot of hours on the truck. Turd polishing and improving small items. loose nut to captive nuts so no wrench needed. Ditch a lot of washers with no purpose, and got rid of most all split lock washers. Using locktite blue instead as needed. Deleted most all the P-clamps I took off. Striving to get to 1970 Ford OEM level.

Pulled drivetrain apart for final assembly. Painted separator plate and outside of adapter. Installed flex plate and tested starter fitment and operation as per Speed Gem's recommendation. Starter is clockable so it could work on motor stand.


Attached trans and prepared to test fit trans in tunnel. Should fit right?


In, but was a battle as a one man show.


Trans contacts tunnel and throttle pedal assembly. Trans mount to high. Trans pan rear bolts are blocked by cross member.


One trans bolt is blocked, and was used for trans shifter mount.


Pulled motor/trans back out to address all the issues. This time I un-bolted the motor mount from the motor instead of chassis, which allows the pair to come out much easier.
Clearance top case rib with flap wheel where it hit firewall/tunnel pinch weld.


Selectively beat the **** out of the tunnel seam and trans hump cover with 4# sledge. Cut the trans mount of cross member, glad this time the welds were accessible and easy to cut. Hammered the bolt head area as well, which is about under gas pedal.


With pan partially blocked, time to service was now. Pulled pan off, clean, no muck or metal. Still a few quarts in it.


Replacement filter was broken inside package, so had to find one locally and drive across town to get it while apart.


With pan off I dilled a hole and welded in 1/8 FPT bung for trans temp sensor. Painted pan and installed with lube locker gasket
Some day CAN interface may be supported and external sensor not needed if EFI/trans/dash can share data. ($$$$).


Reinstalled motor and trans, much easier this time with clearance issues resolved and motor mounts out of the way. 5 min job now.

 

[rattle_snake]

On to the details of trans swap, cooling, shifter, mount and so on.

Bought a new OEM Ford 6.0l plate style trans cooler instead of attempt to clean the existing. Had to do same mods as before. Cut off mount brackets of old and welded into new. Modified lower mounts. Painted, installed, connected hoses.
I like that the cooler lines are in the left side away from the exhaust. Now right side frame rail is empty, all plumbing and wiring on left.


Trans mount needed to be flipped over and mount angle was now backwards, again. Already cut up too much so started over and made a new mount to fit correctly. Shimmed trans and installed transfer case to check fitment of front drive shaft and cab. Ample clearance everywhere. Picked a mid height point with existing 0.75" shims so rear of drivetrain is adjustable up and down.


Welded to crossmember. Appear that those rear bolt could come out if needed.


On to trans shifter mock up. Cut bracket upper mount off and used existing bell crank from c6. Shift order of 6R is opposite from column shift like C6, so bell crank reverses and allow detent spread ratio correction.


Ended up reworking the trans bracket a few more times, shortened and moved pivot boss as needed. Tapped unused trans bolt hole to 1/2-20 thread so I could use bolt to secure the top end of the bracket. Changed the ratio by drilling additional holes in bell crank. Found a decent ratio match and corrected indicator position error with linkage length.
Similar to linear calibration, just gain and offset
Decided on cooler hose routing and connected the other end using 8 AN swivel/barb and Oetiker clamps.


Installed drive shafts, exhaust, starter and didn't have any more fitment issues. Dressed engine and assembled front clip.

 

[zmotorsports]

Looks great Justin. Test fitting definitely pays off when there's interferences to address.

 

[rattle_snake]

Yes it does Mike. Given the battle I fought to get it in the first time I considered trying to work around it. But I knew that would be frustrating and futile. So took a break to refresh and think of ways to mitigate the difficulties.

I feel very lucky to have all the tools, equipment and shop I have now. The AoH hoist is a game changer for a guy by himself. I had to use a few tools that I had not touched in a long time like stubby wrenches and swivel head ratchets to get into the tight places. A one transfer case bolts was very, very difficult to access. The shift linkages took awhile to dial in. Couldn't use lift as I had to get in and out of cab to try each modification.

 

[rattle_snake]

I was able to get the column shift to work OK with the 6R. The 6R adds 'M' (manual) to the existing 6 gear selections. With aftermarket controller not sure it is needed, as the paddle/button up/down shifting is enabled with a switch or button.
Reverse is a fair distance from park like the column gate, but the rest of the 5 positions are tight and the indication is off a bit. D is between N and D. But the lockouts of the column function as they should, preventing R, P and low gear unless lever is pulled.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

My '49 is the same way with the aftermarket column and indicator. 85% of the gears match up ok...OD is a bit wonky.

 

[ntsqd]

Sounds a lot like what I went thru making a Pontiac ratchet shifter work with the AOD in my '67 Ranchero, only moreso.

 

[rattle_snake]

Riding mower has been leaking fuel and stinking up the barn. There is no off season for the machine and doesn't get a year end cleaning, so I took the time to clean it up to help locate the leak. The fuel shut off solenoid itself was leaking, so I replaced it with a 3/8-24 bolt cut to length. My understanding of purpose is to prevent backfire, which it does sometimes anyway.
Checked oil, cleaned air filter and mowed the lawn.

 

[rattle_snake]

Working on getting the Quick6 trans controller installed.
Step one was to pick a mounting location and make a suitable bracket. Glove box made sense as it has lot of wires. The box has connectors on all sides but the top so made a bracket accordingly with captive nuts.
Only a few vehicle connections are needed, power, TPS. I also ran wires for shift buttons, VSS and the aux input. Split the harness up into engine compartment and in cab bundles.


The glove box area is mostly used by the A/C system so the controller doesn't reduce usability. The A/C box itself has another glove box compartment.
There was an existing 5/8 hole in firewall for camper special wiring that I had repurposed for high current stereo wiring. It was in the only usable location, but need larger to fit the large plugs through. Opended up to 1-1/4". All I have is a hole saw in that size, so I slid a spacer sleeve over the center drill with OD about the existing hole size. Worked great, put in a grommet and ran trans wiring and the 2 ga power calbe.

 

[rattle_snake]

Continuing on the trans controller wiring. Not a lot of wires but a lot of work to do a high quality job. Must be robust to be reliable, trans is safety critical in my opinion. Controller needs TPS data to calculate load and line pressures so using existing one on the Sniper EFI. TPS signal is sensitive to offset (thinks accel pedal is no longer at rest position) so grounding is important, as that is the reference. EFI and trans controller grounds are connected as close to Sniper as possible, at connector. Had to do a deep dive into engine harness to rework.
Switched power (start+run) was on a light gauge wire to sniper, as it has internal power relay. Replaced that wire with larger 16 ga back to source connector, as the Quick6 draws a fair amount of current to drive the shift solenoids. I ran the TPS signal wire in engine harness with A/C clutch and distributor trigger. No pics, as it looks same as before.

I found a few solutions for tapping into the TPS itself. US shift has a harness with a TPS output filter built in $75. Can get an extension cable and cut that up to tap in. Both have bulky connectors, cost money and would take time to get. So being the frugal and impatient engineer I am, I modified the existing wiring for a clean and minimal solution.

TPS wire is short, about 3", and 2" of that in a sealed jacket I didn't want to disrupt. To work with the inch of exposed wire I de-pinned the one I needed, which also allows adhesive heat shrink to be slipped on to seal back up nicely. I cut off a small section of only the insulation, and wrapped & secured the tap wire to it mechanically. Then solder, and a good cleaning to remove all the flux. Typically I use crimps, as some fluxes (as they are an oxidizer) will corrode the **** out the wiring if not cleaned. Not a fan of no-clean type either.


To finish off I used a single pin weatherpack connector so the Sniper can be removed easily.

 

[Ohmthis]

Top notch work Justin! As a wire jockey, I appreciate the work you’ve put in on the wiring.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks Ohm! Almost done.

Hardware = Wire bender
Software = Mush head

 

[rattle_snake]

6R80's have a very short dipstick that can only be accesses from beneath. I want firewall access to check and fill fluid dipstick provides, so had to dig deep in my pocket, $250.
AN8 hose is a bit long, not going to change now so made a bracket using an existing bolt on firewall that prevented a trap in the hose. Hopefully a funnel will fit with hood on.


And these showed up

 

[rattle_snake]

Didn't want to continue to use a generic flex hose for upper radiator. It works OK, but just not up to standards.
Searched local Autozone and then O'Reilly's and found a suitable hose. Not perfect but trimmed it up, better than before.
Cross ref says 7.3 power stroke app.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

I have spent many hours comparing hoses at the parts store to a bent up piece of wire!

 

[zmotorsports]

I have spent many hours comparing hoses at the parts store to a bent up piece of wire!

I couldn't agree more Marc. Many of hours spent between the picture book and at the local auto parts trying to source molded hoses to meet the application I needed. I HATE flex hoses. On several street rods I have fabricated steel tubing rigid sections with ribbed ends formed using my bead former and then used small 4"-6" sections of rubber hoses at each end to join both the engine and radiator for a very clean and sanitary look.

 

[ntsqd]

I couldn't agree more Marc. Many of hours spent between the picture book and at the local auto parts trying to source molded hoses to meet the application I needed. I HATE flex hoses. On several street rods I have fabricated steel tubing rigid sections with ribbed ends formed using my bead former and then used small 4"-6" sections of rubber hoses at each end to join both the engine and radiator for a very clean and sanitary look.

Years ago I gave up on trying to find formed hoses that fit some unique application. In those days we could go over to Borla's rem/scrap bin and find mandrel bent SS tubes. For a tiny price we'd haul home what we thought could be cut up and pieced back together to make a radiator tube. At first we welded a bead around the tube ends to create a bead, but later I ended up with a Pexto and I started forming them. Even made tooling so that I could form a bead on heater tubes. Eventually Borla moved too far away and I started ordering SS bends from SPD and Colombia. Some day I want to build a system that uses Wiggins couplings instead of the short hose couplers. Just because I think they're cool.

 

[zmotorsports]

Years ago I gave up on trying to find formed hoses that fit some unique application. In those days we could go over to Borla's rem/scrap bin and find mandrel bent SS tubes. For a tiny price we'd haul home what we thought could be cut up and pieced back together to make a radiator tube. At first we welded a bead around the tube ends to create a bead, but later I ended up with a Pexto and I started forming them. Even made tooling so that I could form a bead on heater tubes. Eventually Borla moved too far away and I started ordering SS bends from SPD and Colombia. Some day I want to build a system that uses Wiggins couplings instead of the short hose couplers. Just because I think they're cool.

Yep, same process using exhaust tubing, forming beads and then TIG welding and metal finishing. I've done a couple using SS tubing but most are done using standard aluminized tubing and then when completed I bead blasted and painted body color. Formed/fabricated rigid lines with black rubber hoses in my opinion look very clean and tidy.

Here is my bead forming tool for creating the raised ridge for the hose.



Like your shop made dies, this allows for quite small tubing to have a nice radiused bead formed into it.

 

[rattle_snake]

I have spent many hours comparing hoses at the parts store to a bent up piece of wire!

I at least had the self-molded flex hose, and I took a short piece of 1.75 OD tube to check diameter. Still time spend staring at the hose wall!

I couldn't agree more Marc. Many of hours spent between the picture book and at the local auto parts trying to source molded hoses to meet the application I needed. I HATE flex hoses. On several street rods I have fabricated steel tubing rigid sections with ribbed ends formed using my bead former and then used small 4"-6" sections of rubber hoses at each end to join both the engine and radiator for a very clean and sanitary look.

Years ago I gave up on trying to find formed hoses that fit some unique application. In those days we could go over to Borla's rem/scrap bin and find mandrel bent SS tubes. For a tiny price we'd haul home what we thought could be cut up and pieced back together to make a radiator tube. At first we welded a bead around the tube ends to create a bead, but later I ended up with a Pexto and I started forming them. Even made tooling so that I could form a bead on heater tubes. Eventually Borla moved too far away and I started ordering SS bends from SPD and Colombia. Some day I want to build a system that uses Wiggins couplings instead of the short hose couplers. Just because I think they're cool.

First molded hose I bought wasn't close and I considered cutting 2 elbows out of it and using 1.75 OD tubing I had on hand. Unfortunately I don't have a roller and searched other methods for a rib. Considered a thin slice of tube cut to fit over the OD. Then weld the gap, secure and smooth edges.

 

[rattle_snake]

Last step other than shift buttons was to fill all the fluids and see what leaks. Easy to get hundreds of dollars in just fluids and gaskets on a project like this.

Went synthetic in transfer case this time. Now that it is clocked up a bit the fluid capacity at fill hole is less. I don't think it is enough to worry about and over fill through speedo hole, but for those who clock 205s up all the way certainly do.

Trans is supposed to hold 13 qts of Mercon LV in the F150. I put 5 in and started engine to pump out pan into converter and so on. Then repeated with smaller amounts until I had 9 in.

Filling trans through the AN8 line was slow and doesn't allow air out at same time. Case vent can't keep up and flow slows, so let it burp every pint or so. Can't imagine trying to fill and check from underneath blocked by hot exhaust.

Shifted through gears and it actually moved!

Pulled it outside and let it run while adding a quart at a time until I had 13 in but still didn't read on stick. Drove it a short distance enough to get to shift. Hood is still sitting on bed rails so no evasive maneuvers. Was late so called it a victory.

Nothing leaking out which is a miracle for me. Seems the oil pan leak is resolved, which is a big deal.

Next step is to test drive and get trans up to ~140 to start shift learning process, then get it up to ~160 to get t-stat to open and fill cooler circuit. Then top off fluid, install hood and see what it can do.

 

[ntsqd]

FWIW those early tubes with a welded retaining bead did not see the bead ground on at all. Tried to make a smooth bead and accepted what what resulted.

ZM's bead roller is the ultimate solution, but like a lot of things there is a chinese clone that looks acceptable for home hobby use. My dies eventually damaged the Pexto's upper shaft while trying to roll a bead in a way too thick SST tube.

 

[Boosted1]

On to the details of trans swap, cooling, shifter, mount and so on.

Bought a new OEM Ford 6.0l plate style trans cooler instead of attempt to clean the existing. Had to do same mods as before. Cut off mount brackets of old and welded into new. Modified lower mounts. Painted, installed, connected hoses.
I like that the cooler lines are in the left side away from the exhaust. Now right side frame rail is empty, all plumbing and wiring on left.


Trans mount needed to be flipped over and mount angle was now backwards, again. Already cut up too much so started over and made a new mount to fit correctly. Shimmed trans and installed transfer case to check fitment of front drive shaft and cab. Ample clearance everywhere. Picked a mid height point with existing 0.75" shims so rear of drivetrain is adjustable up and down.


Welded to crossmember. Appear that those rear bolt could come out if needed.


On to trans shifter mock up. Cut bracket upper mount off and used existing bell crank from c6. Shift order of 6R is opposite from column shift like C6, so bell crank reverses and allow detent spread ratio correction.


Ended up reworking the trans bracket a few more times, shortened and moved pivot boss as needed. Tapped unused trans bolt hole to 1/2-20 thread so I could use bolt to secure the top end of the bracket. Changed the ratio by drilling additional holes in bell crank. Found a decent ratio match and corrected indicator position error with linkage length.
Similar to linear calibration, just gain and offset
Decided on cooler hose routing and connected the other end using 8 AN swivel/barb and Oetiker clamps.


Installed drive shafts, exhaust, starter and didn't have any more fitment issues. Dressed engine and assembled front clip.

Wow you've been busy.