Setting Up Garage - Need Advice on Fabrication/Welding Table

[bulletpruf]

Fellas -

After 20 years in the military, moving every 1-3 years, I'm finally ready to settle down in San Antonio and set up a real garage shop. More details here - https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=415913

I've got a 2 car garage, but have installed a 4 post lift in the middle so I can still fit two cars (one on the top one parked beneath) and hopefully have enough room for all my tools.

I'd like to be able to do some fabrication and welding; mostly automotive related. I have a Miller MIG and an oxyacetylene setup. Need plenty of practice with both. Don't have a lathe or a mill; will make do with a drill press for now.

Much of my work is going to be done on top of a pair of 72" Homak bottom cabinets; they have stainless steel tops for a work surface.

I also have a "Portable Dirty Room" - a 2' x 3' mobile bench that I can use my grinder, band saw (Milwaukee PortaBand on one of the custom made tables), sander, etc., on and wheel it outside.

What I'm lacking is a place for welding and metal fabrication. However, I'm going to look at a metal table tomorrow with 3/4" top, adjustable legs, 30" x 60".

Figure this would be a good work space for fabrication, and think I can drill some holes in the top to use for clamps.

But what about welding? Do you also weld on your fabrication tables? Would think you would get welding slag on it if you did. And I can't imagine it would be easy to use a cutting torch on it, either.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Scott

 

[sberry]

I got one main bench and use it for all. No holes, don't want dirt or fluids going thru. Main thing is some overhang a side and end to clamp. Make a catch can to cut off the end. After a bit you can learn to weld and fab without making a mess, if I accumulate a little splatter clean it with grinder or sander once in a while.
Nothing fancy here, thousands of little battle scars. Dozens of little additions. Couple of the holes could be filled, used them once 25 yrs ago.

 

[bulletpruf]

I got one main bench and use it for all. No holes, don't want dirt or fluids going thru. Main thing is some overhang a side and end to clamp. Make a catch can to cut off the end. After a bit you can learn to weld and fab without making a mess, if I accumulate a little splatter clean it with grinder or sander once in a while.
Nothing fancy here, thousands of little battle scars. Dozens of little additions. Couple of the holes could be filled, used them once 25 yrs ago.

I like it! Certainly looks like you've gotten a lot of use out of it.

Good point on the overhang.

Also like your clamp hanger and grinder cubbyhole. I'd like to add a few drawers to mine, too.

Can you elaborate on this comment, "Make a catch can to cut off the end."?

Thanks

 

[kazlx]

Fabricating is welding...that’s what you do on your fabrication table . Slag isn’t that big of an issue. You might get some berries if you’re running beads right next to the table top. But you can knock them off with a cold chisel or a quick flap wheel. I usually just spray a little Pam on there before hand if I know I’ll be close. Pick a size that looks good and go with it. If you need something bigger/better figure it out down the road. Don’t get too hung up on a ‘perfect’ table.

 

[bulletpruf]

Fabricating is welding...that’s what you do on your fabrication table . Slag isn’t that big of an issue. You might get some berries if you’re running beads right next to the table top. But you can knock them off with a cold chisel or a quick flap wheel. I usually just spray a little Pam on there before hand if I know I’ll be close. Pick a size that looks good and go with it. If you need something bigger/better figure it out down the road. Don’t get too hung up on a ‘perfect’ table.

Thanks for the input. That's helpful.

 

[Nick@HPM]

We have two tables that we have fabricated that are 4' x 8', one with a 1/2" top, one with a 3/4" thick table top. Used 4" SQ for the legs, 2"x 3" tubing for the cross supports.

The biggest thing that I have found to be useful for the fabrication table is weight. Build something that you can fab on and move stuff around on without moving the table around. Clearly the thick top will have the mass, the overhangs are great for clamping. Build one as big as you have room for.

I have a forklift in my garage so moving my fab table and frame table are not a big deal.

 

[BD1]

Using mig with gas 75/25 should be pretty clean. I usually run a flat file accross the top for cleaning. A flapper disc does a great job too but nothing real aggressive.
The WELDINGWEB has great members and lots of info. Here's the welding table thread that maybe of interests.

https://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?377311-Welding-table-picture-thread

This is a table I did with a female student I was teaching.

https://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?430711-Small-3%92-x-5%92-rolling-welding-table&highlight=

 

[bulletpruf]

We have two tables that we have fabricated that are 4' x 8', one with a 1/2" top, one with a 3/4" thick table top. Used 4" SQ for the legs, 2"x 3" tubing for the cross supports.

The biggest thing that I have found to be useful for the fabrication table is weight. Build something that you can fab on and move stuff around on without moving the table around. Clearly the thick top will have the mass, the overhangs are great for clamping. Build one as big as you have room for.

I have a forklift in my garage so moving my fab table and frame table are not a big deal.

The one I plan to pick up is 30" x 60" and 5/8" or 3/4" top, so it should be large and beefy. No forklift in the garage, so it's either going on casters or it's not going to be move much at all.

Using mig with gas 75/25 should be pretty clean. I usually run a flat file accross the top for cleaning. A flapper disc does a great job too but nothing real aggressive.
The WELDINGWEB has great members and lots of info. Here's the welding table thread that maybe of interests.

https://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?377311-Welding-table-picture-thread

This is a table I did with a female student I was teaching.

https://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?430711-Small-3%92-x-5%92-rolling-welding-table&highlight=

Thanks for the input. That's a great thread.

 

[bad_idea]

I have my weld table on wheels. The table is 3'x5' w/ a 5/8" thick top, weighs 600 lbs (did the calculations based on 1 sq ft of 1" plate weighing 40.8 lbs). In my last garage I had to lock the casters every time I moved it due to the slope of the floor, it would roll right out the door down the driveway. I had the floor poured level in my new shop, so rolling away isn't a concern now. Table pretty much stays where I put it without locking the casters. The top on the table you are looking at is 382.5 lbs, table probably weighs 500-600 lbs. In a small shop I would definitely put it on wheels to move around (out to the driveway sometimes for the nasty projects too).

As others have said, one table to do all metal working is fine. I wouldn't put any holes in it. I have gotten by fine clamping things to the edge of the table. I find a lot of projects I don't need to clamp to the table at all. Grinding dust gets everywhere, holes in the table guarantees items stored under the table will be coated in it.

 

[dr_clyde]

Tables and work surfaces are a personal thing. I have found what I like, and have built many tables and work benches for my shop.

I have a basic design that I use, and make slight modifications based on the end application.

I do have some "rules" I have developed for fabricated tables in my shop.

1. Whenever possible, keep tables the same height as other tables. I routinely join up tables and benches for long work or big projects.

2. Have some leveling feet or some way to adjust for level. Floors are rarely flat. No wheels on the big tables. I don't want them moving. My little aluminum table is on wheels.

3. Keep a reveal around the perimeter of the top equal to the throat depth of your most common clamp. 6" is a very good number, but 4" would be appropriate for smaller tables.

4. Versatility is key. Being able to be modular and fast with attachments, fixtures, jigs, workholding and layout makes me fast, efficient and profitable. I like my tables to be able to do a lot, so I've designed them to accommodate tooling of all sorts.

The 2.5" hitch receiver is far and away the most useful feature of my main bench. I can quickly add or remove tools, vises, and machines from the bench as a base. Some jobs I have 4 or 5 things hitched up, some jobs I have none. I keep 4 bench vises of various kinds and sizes, a B3 Beverly shear, JD² tubing bender, Marvel rod shear, ring roller, and a bench grinder on receiver tubes. I can re-arrange, add or remove any of these quickly and easily with one wrench.

A few well placed holes or slots allow you to clamp in the middle of the table. This is VERY useful. Unless you're building a fixture table, you don't need hundreds of holes. I have 5/8" holes 12" on center, and that is plenty for most everything I do.

I attached a generic drawing for my kind of bench. You can scale it to whatever sizes are appropriate. I apologize about the low res, I forgot to up the resolution for the JPEG output in solidworks.

 

[bulletpruf]

I have my weld table on wheels. The table is 3'x5' w/ a 5/8" thick top, weighs 600 lbs (did the calculations based on 1 sq ft of 1" plate weighing 40.8 lbs). In my last garage I had to lock the casters every time I moved it due to the slope of the floor, it would roll right out the door down the driveway. I had the floor poured level in my new shop, so rolling away isn't a concern now. Table pretty much stays where I put it without locking the casters. The top on the table you are looking at is 382.5 lbs, table probably weighs 500-600 lbs. In a small shop I would definitely put it on wheels to move around (out to the driveway sometimes for the nasty projects too).

As others have said, one table to do all metal working is fine. I wouldn't put any holes in it. I have gotten by fine clamping things to the edge of the table. I find a lot of projects I don't need to clamp to the table at all. Grinding dust gets everywhere, holes in the table guarantees items stored under the table will be coated in it.

Thanks for the input. I'm still inclined to put holes in the top, but will have to see how much overhang it has.

I do have a smaller bench on wheels that I plan to wheel outside for dirty work.

Tables and work surfaces are a personal thing. I have found what I like, and have built many tables and work benches for my shop.

I have a basic design that I use, and make slight modifications based on the end application.

I do have some "rules" I have developed for fabricated tables in my shop.

1. Whenever possible, keep tables the same height as other tables. I routinely join up tables and benches for long work or big projects.

2. Have some leveling feet or some way to adjust for level. Floors are rarely flat. No wheels on the big tables. I don't want them moving. My little aluminum table is on wheels.

3. Keep a reveal around the perimeter of the top equal to the throat depth of your most common clamp. 6" is a very good number, but 4" would be appropriate for smaller tables.

4. Versatility is key. Being able to be modular and fast with attachments, fixtures, jigs, workholding and layout makes me fast, efficient and profitable. I like my tables to be able to do a lot, so I've designed them to accommodate tooling of all sorts.

The 2.5" hitch receiver is far and away the most useful feature of my main bench. I can quickly add or remove tools, vises, and machines from the bench as a base. Some jobs I have 4 or 5 things hitched up, some jobs I have none. I keep 4 bench vises of various kinds and sizes, a B3 Beverly shear, JD² tubing bender, Marvel rod shear, ring roller, and a bench grinder on receiver tubes. I can re-arrange, add or remove any of these quickly and easily with one wrench.

A few well placed holes or slots allow you to clamp in the middle of the table. This is VERY useful. Unless you're building a fixture table, you don't need hundreds of holes. I have 5/8" holes 12" on center, and that is plenty for most everything I do.

I attached a generic drawing for my kind of bench. You can scale it to whatever sizes are appropriate. I apologize about the low res, I forgot to up the resolution for the JPEG output in solidworks.

Thanks for the detailed response. I just read through your fab table build -- lots of great ideas there!

Scott

 

[MadeByMiller]

No matter what you end up with for a work surface, the most important thing for me is maintaining it. You want to keep the surface as flat and smooth as possible, or you will always fight it. I personally do not recommend running a flap disc or any abrasive on a grinder over your bench top, even lightly. If I get spatter on mine, it's usually light enough to scrape off with the edge of a piece of scrap steel, the more stubborn bits get removed with a hammer and a small cold chisel, being careful not to gouge with the chisel. At the end of every day, I run over the whole surface with a maroon scotch brite pad by hand. This keeps it nice and clean and if you're in a humid environment, free of surface rust. If it gets some deep scratches, I'll run over the surface with a DA sander with 40 grit paper on it. I got my bench from out in a field and reconditioned the top using a woodworking handheld belt sander. I'll attach some pictures. Personally, I prefer a surface without holes 99% of the time. The holes tend to just be a source of hang ups for me, and I can always clamp on the edges if need be.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I have a 2'x3' Certiflat on wheels that I do most of my welding on. 3'x4' would be substantially better, but like you I'm limited on space at the moment. I really like having all the holes for fixturing and bolting down misc. stuff. I also like that it took me a few hours of welding to knock out as I'm also limited on time. I mostly tig weld, but even if you got some mig splatter on it you could just knock it off with a flap disc.

Here is an example of where the holes were really helpful when needing an improvised way to rotate some tubing while welding.

 

[bulletpruf]

No matter what you end up with for a work surface, the most important thing for me is maintaining it. You want to keep the surface as flat and smooth as possible, or you will always fight it. I personally do not recommend running a flap disc or any abrasive on a grinder over your bench top, even lightly. If I get spatter on mine, it's usually light enough to scrape off with the edge of a piece of scrap steel, the more stubborn bits get removed with a hammer and a small cold chisel, being careful not to gouge with the chisel. At the end of every day, I run over the whole surface with a maroon scotch brite pad by hand. This keeps it nice and clean and if you're in a humid environment, free of surface rust. If it gets some deep scratches, I'll run over the surface with a DA sander with 40 grit paper on it. I got my bench from out in a field and reconditioned the top using a woodworking handheld belt sander. I'll attach some pictures. Personally, I prefer a surface without holes 99% of the time. The holes tend to just be a source of hang ups for me, and I can always clamp on the edges if need be.

Thanks for the input. Your table certainly cleaned up nicely.

I have a 2'x3' Certiflat on wheels that I do most of my welding on. 3'x4' would be substantially better, but like you I'm limited on space at the moment. I really like having all the holes for fixturing and bolting down misc. stuff. I also like that it took me a few hours of welding to knock out as I'm also limited on time. I mostly tig weld, but even if you got some mig splatter on it you could just knock it off with a flap disc.

Here is an example of where the holes were really helpful when needing an improvised way to rotate some tubing while welding.

Nice looking table; fairly affordable, too. Thanks for the input.

 

[bulletpruf]

Got the table today, but not the one that I was after. Guy had 3 tables - 2' x 4' 5/8" thick; 30" x 60" and 1/2" thick (he thought it was 3/4 or 5/8 but it wasn't), and a big one with 1" thick top that was out of my price range at $900.

The medium sized table with the 1/2" top was warped/bent. Top had about 1/4" dip in the middle, so I passed. However, the 2' x 4' with 5/8" top was good, so I bought it. And took home a nice vintage Rock Island vise with the $ I saved.

One issue - it's 41" tall. I'm 6'4" so that's not a big deal, but I'm guessing folks were sitting on stools using this bench.

What do y'all think?

 

[kazlx]

Personally, I like tall benches. I'm about 6'1" and have built all of mine around 38-40". It's nice being able to stand and walk around and not hunch over. When I weld, I like being able to half sit on a stool and have my leg almost straight with a little bend for tig. Not sure what the thing sticking off the top is, prob holder for a mig torch, but I'd probably cut it off personally. But to each their own. If you're happy with what you paid, it should be fine. If you really want to, you can always build another frame if you decide you want something different.

 

[MadeByMiller]

Looks like a solid bench! Too bad the larger one didn't end up working out. As far as the height, I would say just try it out for a while. You can always cut it down later if you're uncomfortable. Personally it would be much too tall for me, but I'm only 5'10". A couple of things that come to mind - you have to lift whatever it is you're working on up to the bench top, if it's heavy lifting that high could be a struggle when most benches are nearly a foot shorter; the other thing I thought of would be discomfort when TIG welding, although you said you have only a MIG anyways. One modification I would make before you begin working - redo the bracing underneath with either a diagonal cross between legs or a single center crossmember longways. Your shins will thank you. And post up a picture of that vise!

 

[bradpac]

Thanks for posting up about those tables. I have been looking at them as well. The one you got was a little smaller than I want, I was going to go look at the medium one, too bad it's bent, but it's not cheap enough to buy and try to fix.

That little one looks like a good table though.

 

[MoonRise]

If it does what you want/need, then great.

If it isn't quite what you want/need, then modify it until it suits you.

Get going with some wire wheels on your angle grinder (you do have some angle grinders, right? ) and clean off the rust from everything. Prime and paint the legs, leave the table top bare (wipe down with some WD40 and an abrasive pad like a scotchbrite).

For 'little' jobs, something like the HF portable welding table for ~$60 on 'sale' (or the more expensive version, the StrongHand one, which looks like HF cloned it), is handy.

Pick up two, they are that handy (for me). Used them last year to rebuild/reweld my steel handrail for my front steps. Even with a big/nice table, they are still handy. And portable. And fold up somewhat to get out of the way when you aren't using them.

Slab of steel plate, four pipes for legs, and some angle iron for a bottom shelf and to tie the legs together somewhat, and you have a weld/fab table.

Add the receiver hitch attachment, and you then have a place to mount a vice or other tools and not have them permanently attached to the plate top.

 

[bulletpruf]

Personally, I like tall benches. I'm about 6'1" and have built all of mine around 38-40". It's nice being able to stand and walk around and not hunch over. When I weld, I like being able to half sit on a stool and have my leg almost straight with a little bend for tig. Not sure what the thing sticking off the top is, prob holder for a mig torch, but I'd probably cut it off personally. But to each their own. If you're happy with what you paid, it should be fine. If you really want to, you can always build another frame if you decide you want something different.

I'm happy with it, but I'll cut off the cup on top and the attachments on the side.

Looks like a solid bench! Too bad the larger one didn't end up working out. As far as the height, I would say just try it out for a while. You can always cut it down later if you're uncomfortable. Personally it would be much too tall for me, but I'm only 5'10". A couple of things that come to mind - you have to lift whatever it is you're working on up to the bench top, if it's heavy lifting that high could be a struggle when most benches are nearly a foot shorter; the other thing I thought of would be discomfort when TIG welding, although you said you have only a MIG anyways. One modification I would make before you begin working - redo the bracing underneath with either a diagonal cross between legs or a single center crossmember longways. Your shins will thank you. And post up a picture of that vise!

It was 41" with the legs extended a few inches. I screwed them all in; probably 39" now.

Here's the vise. Nice and tight. I'll probably strip it to bare metal and then hit it with boiled linseed oil and leave it bare.

Thanks for posting up about those tables. I have been looking at them as well. The one you got was a little smaller than I want, I was going to go look at the medium one, too bad it's bent, but it's not cheap enough to buy and try to fix.

That little one looks like a good table though.

Yeah, even if the dropped the price a bunch on the medium one, I wouldn't be interested.

If it does what you want/need, then great.

If it isn't quite what you want/need, then modify it until it suits you.

Get going with some wire wheels on your angle grinder (you do have some angle grinders, right? ) and clean off the rust from everything. Prime and paint the legs, leave the table top bare (wipe down with some WD40 and an abrasive pad like a scotchbrite).

For 'little' jobs, something like the HF portable welding table for ~$60 on 'sale' (or the more expensive version, the StrongHand one, which looks like HF cloned it), is handy.

Pick up two, they are that handy (for me). Used them last year to rebuild/reweld my steel handrail for my front steps. Even with a big/nice table, they are still handy. And portable. And fold up somewhat to get out of the way when you aren't using them.

Slab of steel plate, four pipes for legs, and some angle iron for a bottom shelf and to tie the legs together somewhat, and you have a weld/fab table.

Add the receiver hitch attachment, and you then have a place to mount a vice or other tools and not have them permanently attached to the plate top.

Definitely have a few angle grinders; itching to get after the rust on the table and paint it. Will probably cut off the stuff I don't need first, then get rid of the rust, prime & paint, then I'll work on a shelf or two, something to hang clamps on, receiver hitch, drill a few holes in the top, etc.

I need to add the HF welding tables to my shopping list.

Thanks

 

[bulletpruf]

Got rid of the extra stuff hanging off the top and side of the table. Will probably finish cleaning up the remnants with a file.

 

[bad_idea]

A file?! It's a weld table, get after it with a grinding wheel! Want to get fancy, clean it up with a flapper wheel after you grind it down to get a smoother surface finish.

 

[bulletpruf]

A file?! It's a weld table, get after it with a grinding wheel! Want to get fancy, clean it up with a flapper wheel after you grind it down to get a smoother surface finish.

I've actually got it pretty close. Shouldn't take more than a few minutes with the file to clean it up. But if not, I have a flapper wheel or two.

Thanks

 

[sberry]

Don't lose sleep over hurting the top, that's why its heavy steed and a dig with a frinder, scuff with a sander wont hurt squat. Dimple is good. Room is an issue, ideally I like vise on another bench, not a post but a bench, it doesn't have to be big but bolted and somewhere to set a tool.
Somewhere near flat is good but it doesn't need to be perfect, so rare does that matter I simply check the work when needed but most of it is one simple piece connected to another, very little real critical in this type of shop work.
As someone pointed out in another thread, a guy needs toi mow a thousand square feet of yard and there is someone recommends a 48 inch zero turn because they got one.
Big difference in a small garage and general work and a hi end custom fab shop building critical components. I worked on a nuke, I am sure some of the parts were fabbed off site in special shops but all the site work was done simple, the benches in the fab shop being a heavy plate set on saw horses and some planks under for shelves.
In plant stools, top of out boxes on occasion and 3 leg pipe vises and a torpedo level. I am a career fabricator, been at it more than 40 years,,, which sounds very strange to say but,,,,,, never needed a perfect bench, never. I have worked around plenty were not very good but it wasn't cause they were not flat enough or didn't have holes.
A couple big monsters company owners bought that were next to useless, big thick tops, too big and took the space and became clutter catchers, very poorly located, no place to toss or hang a few tools. No overhang to fit common clamps. I like it to use normal clamps, not fond of stuff goes in holes, want all to be multi purposed. I like a hole or 2 and a slot on end overhang to fit obstructions to, bolt down lawn mower wheels for tire change.

 

[sberry]

The start of this bench was remnants of a job and never right, just got moved in when it was needed and added on to from there. I wouldn't mind a new top to start over but it works and not going to make me any money to fix it.
I had a catch can on the end and finally had it,,, made it better with a grate. The dross and bits from, hundreds, really thousands of cuts.

 

[kazlx]

Nice. It already looks way better. Maybe scuff up the base and rattle can it black. I'd clean up the top a little with a flap wheel or a DA sander with some 36-60 grit. I like having a clean smooth top. Makes it easier to ground to the table instead of your part for smaller things.

 

[bulletpruf]

Don't lose sleep over hurting the top, that's why its heavy steed and a dig with a frinder, scuff with a sander wont hurt squat. Dimple is good. Room is an issue, ideally I like vise on another bench, not a post but a bench, it doesn't have to be big but bolted and somewhere to set a tool.
Somewhere near flat is good but it doesn't need to be perfect, so rare does that matter I simply check the work when needed but most of it is one simple piece connected to another, very little real critical in this type of shop work.
As someone pointed out in another thread, a guy needs toi mow a thousand square feet of yard and there is someone recommends a 48 inch zero turn because they got one.
Big difference in a small garage and general work and a hi end custom fab shop building critical components. I worked on a nuke, I am sure some of the parts were fabbed off site in special shops but all the site work was done simple, the benches in the fab shop being a heavy plate set on saw horses and some planks under for shelves.
In plant stools, top of out boxes on occasion and 3 leg pipe vises and a torpedo level. I am a career fabricator, been at it more than 40 years,,, which sounds very strange to say but,,,,,, never needed a perfect bench, never. I have worked around plenty were not very good but it wasn't cause they were not flat enough or didn't have holes.
A couple big monsters company owners bought that were next to useless, big thick tops, too big and took the space and became clutter catchers, very poorly located, no place to toss or hang a few tools. No overhang to fit common clamps. I like it to use normal clamps, not fond of stuff goes in holes, want all to be multi purposed. I like a hole or 2 and a slot on end overhang to fit obstructions to, bolt down lawn mower wheels for tire change.

The smaller bench might be a blessing in disguise. My "shop" is a 2 car garage. Has a 4 post lift so I can fit 2 cars in it (one on the lift, one under). Still trying to fit all my tools and stuff into the space that's left.

The start of this bench was remnants of a job and never right, just got moved in when it was needed and added on to from there. I wouldn't mind a new top to start over but it works and not going to make me any money to fix it.
I had a catch can on the end and finally had it,,, made it better with a grate. The dross and bits from, hundreds, really thousands of cuts.

Ok, the catch can piece is new to me. Is that just there to sweep off all the debris into?

Nice. It already looks way better. Maybe scuff up the base and rattle can it black. I'd clean up the top a little with a flap wheel or a DA sander with some 36-60 grit. I like having a clean smooth top. Makes it easier to ground to the table instead of your part for smaller things.

It'll get stripped (or at least sanded/scuffed), primed, and painted. I'll finish cleaning up the top as well.

Not sure what color go to with -- my lift is black, toolboxes "competition orange," wall cabinets are black, large floor cabinet is dark gray, etc. I've got dozens of cans of spray paint; should be able to find something that will work.

 

[sberry]

I cut in to.the can and toss little bits of steel scrap in there. I have a scrap yard, some pallets I toss process scrap in, a 55 gallon drum in the shop and this catch so I don't got to walk to the barrel for every little piece. Nuts, bolts, cut off drop in to it. Sweep up goes in the trash.

 

[sberry]

There is a steel bar in the floor connects the benches to building frame. Plasma and stick grounds are all connected, you can see a lead and clamp hung on corner. Reaches out.

Then leads connected to stick machine for outdoor.

 

[mike_dmt]

That table has a ton of potential. I agree with the guys, hit it with a flap wheel to clean it up. It'll get stuff on it constantly if you're using it for automotive use.

I have a similar setup. I made mine so my welder and plasma can park underneath it, to save space when not in use.

Right now there's a Ford 8.8 on mine in the middle of getting narrowed.

I welded receiver stock under my table and mounted this vise to some plate and a piece of 2" tubing. The vise doesn't take up any table space, and can be removed and replaced with a work rest, etc..

 

[bulletpruf]

I cut in to.the can and toss little bits of steel scrap in there. I have a scrap yard, some pallets I toss process scrap in, a 55 gallon drum in the shop and this catch so I don't got to walk to the barrel for every little piece. Nuts, bolts, cut off drop in to it. Sweep up goes in the trash.

Ok, thanks

There is a steel bar in the floor connects the benches to building frame. Plasma and stick grounds are all connected, you can see a lead and clamp hung on corner. Reaches out.

Then leads connected to stick machine for outdoor.

Thanks, nice setup you have there.

That table has a ton of potential. I agree with the guys, hit it with a flap wheel to clean it up. It'll get stuff on it constantly if you're using it for automotive use.

I have a similar setup. I made mine so my welder and plasma can park underneath it, to save space when not in use.

Right now there's a Ford 8.8 on mine in the middle of getting narrowed.

I welded receiver stock under my table and mounted this vise to some plate and a piece of 2" tubing. The vise doesn't take up any table space, and can be removed and replaced with a work rest, etc..

Nice looking bench. What are you using for the bottom of your shelf? Need some as well.

Thanks

 

[bulletpruf]

Hit it with the wire wheel today - got rid of the rust and scuffed up the paint - and then followed up with a coat of primer and a coat of gloss black. Left the top as-is. Still need to clean it up a bit.

 

[bad_idea]

Jack Olsen used muriatic acid IIRC to clean the top of his bench. Gave it a nice surface finish with minimal effort. Somewhere in his garage thread is the step by step how he did it.

 

[bulletpruf]

Jack Olsen used muriatic acid IIRC to clean the top of his bench. Gave it a nice surface finish with minimal effort. Somewhere in his garage thread is the step by step how he did it.

Thanks for the tip. I'll see if I can find it.

Scott

 

[sberry]

Just sand it off a little so its smooth and doesn't have thick paint on it.

 

[bulletpruf]

Just sand it off a little so its smooth and doesn't have thick paint on it.

Yeah, I'm not going to spend a lot of time on it. Took the grinder to a bit of welding spatter here and there. Figure wire wheel or sander will finish the top off.

Thanks

 

[rpcraft]

Fellas -

After 20 years in the military, moving every 1-3 years, I'm finally ready to settle down in San Antonio and set up a real garage shop. More details here - https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=415913

I've got a 2 car garage, but have installed a 4 post lift in the middle so I can still fit two cars (one on the top one parked beneath) and hopefully have enough room for all my tools.

I'd like to be able to do some fabrication and welding; mostly automotive related. I have a Miller MIG and an oxyacetylene setup. Need plenty of practice with both. Don't have a lathe or a mill; will make do with a drill press for now.

Much of my work is going to be done on top of a pair of 72" Homak bottom cabinets; they have stainless steel tops for a work surface.

I also have a "Portable Dirty Room" - a 2' x 3' mobile bench that I can use my grinder, band saw (Milwaukee PortaBand on one of the custom made tables), sander, etc., on and wheel it outside.

What I'm lacking is a place for welding and metal fabrication. However, I'm going to look at a metal table tomorrow with 3/4" top, adjustable legs, 30" x 60".

Figure this would be a good work space for fabrication, and think I can drill some holes in the top to use for clamps.

But what about welding? Do you also weld on your fabrication tables? Would think you would get welding slag on it if you did. And I can't imagine it would be easy to use a cutting torch on it, either.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Scott

FWIW there is a fellow in Houston that I bought a welding table from. He can make them as nice or basic as you like. I went pretty basic and have no complaints. Paid about 350 bucks. He painted the framework with a good industrial paint and the top is basic 1/4 plate. I don't need anything to be super level or have a lot of holding points. Just flat and good for sitting at on a bench height chair.

His phone # is 832-771-7578 and he has a nice little setup to provide you exactly what you want or make the table as feature complete as you want it. Here is a photo of what I got for 350 and like I said it is simple but I wanted simple. Sorry for the mess. Been taking some time off to go ride and so all the project bikes have been shoved around to make a path through the garage, lol.

 

[bulletpruf]

FWIW there is a fellow in Houston that I bought a welding table from. He can make them as nice or basic as you like. I went pretty basic and have no complaints. Paid about 350 bucks. He painted the framework with a good industrial paint and the top is basic 1/4 plate. I don't need anything to be super level or have a lot of holding points. Just flat and good for sitting at on a bench height chair.

His phone # is 832-771-7578 and he has a nice little setup to provide you exactly what you want or make the table as feature complete as you want it. Here is a photo of what I got for 350 and like I said it is simple but I wanted simple. Sorry for the mess. Been taking some time off to go ride and so all the project bikes have been shoved around to make a path through the garage, lol.

Thanks for the details and pictures. Nice table, and your garage looks about like mine does now.

I think my table will work for me for now, especially after I get it outfitted like I want. Figure I'll build my own if/when I outgrow it.

Scott

 

[sberry]

It ain't all that much about fancy to start with but convenience, can you get around etc, a few place to set something under. Simple top spills won't go thru, huge doesn't matter as you ain't gonna build trailers on it anyway. 99% of my stuff is small and couple 3 pieces or a weld.
For a lot of guys once the place is built the welding use goes down.
The work is on the car or machine.
The use is multi purpose.

 

[AMCguy]

That's a great looking little table. I'm sure even if you outgrow it, you'll still keep it around.

When you're ready for that 30x60'', check out the link to my build below.

Glenn