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Setting up the workshop for the 'Middle Aged' among us

Ray Bell

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Mar 21, 2023
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Location
The Summit, Queensland
Visiting a friend, Norm, of whom you might hear more over time, his wife said to me, "Ray, you're putting on weight!"

Well, though I wasn't used to the idea, nor to the attention of others falling on it, I was quick to respond: "Yes, other people have mentioned that to me." And I added as a continuing thought, "I wonder what's causing it?"

Quick as a flash came her reply, "Well, it could be middle age spread."

That thought didn't appeal to me, which I guess showed in my next reply: "Yes, others have said that too. But what I don't understand is why I've got it so early!"

All of this took place nearly a quarter of a century ago, so I'd say 'Middle Age' has well and truly caught up with me now. So getting about jobs in my workshop isn't as easy as I once found it to be, and others will agree that you lose some muscle tone when you're in your late sixties and seventies. This is a difficulty at times, but even more so as I usually work alone. Almost always, in fact.

For instance, when I was driving my Subaru Foresters a lot they needed a bit of attention from time to time. One problem was with rear wheel bearings, another with CV joints. Both required that struts would have to be removed. Well, that's easy enough, gravity can be a great aid there. But to once again feed the strut back up into its tower, and position it so one or more of the studs came through its hole, that required greater strength and flexibility than I could easily muster.

Hence I devised this piece of equipment:

0920strutlifter2.jpg
Strut lifter. Using a piece of 4" square tube (salvaged from a scrapheap somewhere) I've drilled a hole for one of my cheap-and-outdated spring compressors to fit through, then the Angle Grinder Engineering Division of my outfit (ie. me with a dangerous tool in my hands) hacked it all to a shape that would allow the job to be done.

0920strutlifter1.jpg
The lower end. There is just enough thread standing proud on the strut top for a 12x1.5mm nut to screw on and hold the weight. I welded a wheel nut of that size to the head of the through-bolt of the spring compressor for this purpose.

0920strutlifter3.jpg
Strut lifted! Once the strut is attached you can stand up and simply lift it into place. No need to stretch an arm around the mudguard like a contortionist with no hope of seeing what you need to do, it's something that makes the job pretty easy. Screwing down the 'nut' on the spring compressor through-bolt will hold it in place if needed. Or lift it if you're feeling like that's the way to go.

Of course, this was all done years ago and the photos were taken five years later. The whole lot's had a good chance to rust up.

Another effort-saver with the Foresters was a simple rig to hold the gearbox up a little for removal and replacement of the engine. There are a couple of facets to this job which can cause grief, the need to slip the engine in and out while it's elevated to a level so the studs on the engine mounts clear is the first. Equally important is that you don't strain the CV boots by moving things around so that they will come off. And they will.

To avoid the CV problem you have to crack the tension of the retaining circlip on the end of the spline in the differential, a quick flick with a big screwdriver between the CV joint and the side housing of the differential and that's accomplished. You then put something in there so it can't slip back in place, I've always used a piece of rope that I've wrapped around, but maybe something more solid with a gap cut in it would be as good or better.

To hold up the gearbox I relied on a piece of lightweight steel tubing that was formerly the top bar of a child's swingset (more from that scrapheap), shortened and drilled to bolt onto a strut-top stud on both sides of the vehicle. A couple holes through it, two pieces of lightweight round tubing flattened and drilled appropriately and the bolts which were then removed from the engine to bellhousing joint go through to hold it all in place:

0319boxsupportedbybrace.jpg
Holding the gearbox in place. Simple, cheap and easy to make, I've used this now four times when doing work on my Subarus.

I'm sure others here have become inventive in the same way to save themselves effort and to overcome issues which befall us as we become less flexible in our later years.
 
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Jim_No_Garage

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Millington NJ
Work smarter not harder is an appropriate statement.

I've always approached things in a more brute force manner and it worked for me for a long time. Not using mechanical advantage when available. Doing tasks by myself with no help. Lifting things without proper form. "Strong like bull" approach to everything.

At 57 years of age I'm not as strong as I used to be and won't bounce back nearly as well as in the past if something goes seriously wrong. I'm learning to finesse things a lot more and ask for help when needed.

Thank you for sharing your Subaru repair "tricks and tips". Someone here will likely benefit from your knowledge.

Cheers

Jim
 
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Ray Bell

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Location
The Summit, Queensland
It's not only Subarus that I work on...

The bane of my life is my Ford Territory, it has many things about it which are difficult. One is that there's no tapped bolt holes in the harmonic balancer to pull it off, it requires a special tool which costs over $100.

0521harmonicbalancerpuller6.jpg
More salvage in use. Some pieces of very heavy gauge square tube cut and welded to a plate I'd chopped off an old towbar, machined to make it round and drilled and tapped in the middle. The thread is from a Ford Falcon radius arm.

A critical point with that vehicle when I had to replace the ball joint at the end of the toe arm on the rear suspension is that you can't simply take the arm out without removing the fuel tank. Well, I didn't remove the tank when I had to replace the fuel pump, I cut a hole in the floor to do that, so why would I pull it out for this purpose.

I had a tool kit for pulling bushes out, but it needed more bits which I had to turn up at the Men's Shed:

0622pullerpieces.jpg
Tooling turned up. Using the basics from the kit, I made the special-sized bits on the lathe, it all worked out fairly well.

And there's more.
 

pbon

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My father in law is 78, on dialysis, has diabetes, is overweight, and I caught him multiple times out in his garage shop in the past year underneath his replica Cord. For heavy stuff, we try to get him to ask for help since he had rotator cuff surgery a few years ago, but he does not always listen.
 

Mike65

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Horse Pasture, Va.
At 65 YO my mind still thinks I am 35 but my body knows better. I usually work by myself in the garage or my woodshop but will call my wife to help when needed.
 

cherokee

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Kansas City MO
Oh yes, work smart.

I have three 6x6 posts left over from my loft build, need to move them out of the way. All of this wood sat on the concrete floor of my shop from when it was delivered in Dec to last weekend. To give you a hint, when putting in longer screws or bolts water would come out of the wood, drops of water. These posts are HEAVY now.

They are laying in the middle of the shop, I want them up against a wall out of the way. No way in hell I can stand them up....what to do what to do. Wife says call the kid have him come out for 15 min and help you stand them up. I don't want to do that, he is married now and has his own life to live.

So....

I use two fairly large pry bars and a small section or round stock, prybar under the 6x6 round stock under the pry bar and up I go, walk it down to the end slowly getting higher and higher, now I can set it on the "arm" of the lift. Us the lift to pick it up to roughly 45deg, then I can do it myself. Walk it to where I want it and tie it off. Worked perfect for all three.

Yes so true, work smarter not harder.
 
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Ray Bell

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Good work, cherokee... you did it!

With a lever you could move the world, it's said. Knowing how to use levers to your advantage is essential and they become a part of the equipment needed to survive in the workshop as you advance towards... no, advance in 'Middle Age'.

Originally posted by Mike65
At 65 YO my mind still thinks I am 35 but my body knows better. I usually work by myself in the garage or my woodshop but will call my wife to help when needed.


At 65 I wasn't too bad, really. At 67 I had a knee decide it didn't want to feel too good, it took about seven years to persuade it that I was going to keep on working it so it had to behave. And, going back to 65, I think I thought I was still about 25. But I was even then getting into the habit of setting things up to make things easier for myself. In fact, though I can't think of what those things were right now, I was doing that when I was 30.

The killer is that back in those times I had a wife who would say, on observing how I got around a difficult job, "You are so clever!" I haven't had that since I was 37.

pbon... I'd love to see pics of the Cord replica, and I recently found out what shoulders are all about when I had bursitis in my right shoulder.
 

ScottsGT

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Lake Wateree, SC
At 65 YO my mind still thinks I am 35 but my body knows better. I usually work by myself in the garage or my woodshop but will call my wife to help when needed.
This attitude has gotten me in a lot of hurt over the past few years. I’m 60 now, but my condition has good days and bad days. Sometimes on those good days I forget how broken down I really am, and do something stupid.
 

Snip

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Crossville, Tennessee
Like most of us in our younger days i would usually just bull my way thru heavier stuff. Prior to retirement (last 20 years) I was a mechanic at a wastewater treatment plant we worked on a lot of heavy stuff. I guess as I got more mature ( older) I started learning and figuring out the "mechanical advantage" of using other equipment to lift, move or hold items and save what was left of my body. Work smarter, not harder.

Part of my duties at one time required running a field service truck to maintain equipment off site, dozer, loaders tractors and farm implements etc. Some of the time you might be 15+ miles from the nearest paved road. Always tried to work safe and find a nice place to work on the equipment with the thought that if I did something stupid and got hurt I wanted a nice view because this just might be where they find my body. Great incentive to work safe.

Now retired in my home shop I try to continue that thought. I have an good assortment of lifting devices, jacks, come-alongs, chain falls etc. to do most of the heavy work. My wife will hang out in the shop with me and help when I need another set of eyes or hands. If nothing else just to remind me to be safe.

When I would see the younger hands jump down from equipment it would make me cringe and my feet and knees hurt to watch it. I tried to explain why they should climb down but mostly fell on deaf ears. I guess as it did when i was a young buck and the older hands would try to tell me.
 

CraigStu

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Yes, smarter not harder. At 75 I should make a sign saying that for my garage. I retired from being a dealer tech 12 yrs ago but here is one of my contributions. We used to drop transaxles out the bottom of the car w/ a trans jack. (BTW we used an OTC brand version of the OP's green support bar to hold up the engine) Trouble was the jack only dropped to maybe 3ft off the floor. Most guys would ask the tech on either side to help and 3 of them got the trans off the jack onto the floor and new one up onto the jack. I brought in a 3ft length of chain. I would drop the jack down, then roll it under one of the lift arms. Chain bolted to the trans, up over the lift arm and other end bolted on. Lift and trans goes up a little, trans jack out from under, lift down til trans was sitting on the floor. Undo bolts, slide trans out, slide new trans under. etc etc. Guys started borrowing my chain. Quite a few bought their own. I have a small drawer in my toolbox where all the tech modified tools are. There are maybe 15 wrenches in there cut and welded in different shapes. Long ones cut so they are now short ones to fit somewhere. A long slot screwdriver that has the end bent at maybe 30 degrees and sharpened. That was great for removing front crank seals on one model car. A completely home made spring compressor that has been modded maybe 5 times since original to fit different struts. One popular model had a recall on an oil hose. It was a short hose connecting two steel lines and secured w/ spring clamps that you squeezed two ears together to loosen. In between the engine and the strut tower. One guy had a pair of huge long needle nose pliers w/ the ends bent at maybe 30deg. $65 from SnapOn. It was absolutely perfect for those clamps. SnapOn guy loved it when we bought maybe 10 of them but it made a 30 min job into a 5 min job so worth it.
 
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Ray Bell

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Back on track, this week I'm changing the rear suspension of the Territory...

It's a terrible setup, having eight 'Rose joints' (ball joints which bolt in like regular bushes) and a further eight regular bushes attaching things to the cradle - though two attach to the chassis) wherein the differential is also mounted on three more bushes. And this isn't counting the shock absorbers.

I bought all the mechanicals out of a similar model in a scrapyard and decided the best way to attack the problem of severely worn bushes and 'Rose joints' was to put the whole rear end out of the other car in to give me a chance to deal with the rest in my own good time. The replacement cradle and all its fittings didn't look to be in such bad order.

Apart from the basic problem of having to get under there and start undoing things, I had the issue of how to lower the cradle when it was undone, how to move it out of the way and, in particular, how to safely put up the replacement. In a way it was a similar problem to that I faced some time ago changing the gearbox in the Dodge.

At that time I made up a framework to fit on my large trolley jack, based on a piece of scrap which I machined (again at the Men's Shed) to bolt on where the little swivel belongs on the jack. To that there were two pieces of angle added, these being able to pivot, and then I bolted up the frames which would support the gearbox:

0423fr0620jackcradle.jpg
Set up for gearbox changes. Simple enough once I made the central piece which bolts onto the jack where the original swivel lived.

So I went back to basics on that and last Monday took the top sections off and made up cross pieces which would fit in with the Territory's suspension cradle:

0423cradleframe2.jpg
Change of purpose. More scrap metal used up, this is the frame for getting under the Territory's cradle...

0423cradleframe3.jpg
Perfect fit. ...and this is how it fitted up under the cradle.

So I was able to lower the suspension complete and remove it from under the vehicle...

0423rearendout3.jpg
Success! This made a difficult job quite easy, but it took me a few hours to make up the bits.

...some juggling with other bits followed, with a newly-acquired hand-operated forklift providing me with a useful lifting device and multi-height bench:

0423cradleonforklift.jpg
My latest workshop addition. This sort of fell into my hands as a trade with a guy moving out of the building where my shed is located. Lift things onto a pallet, lift the pallet and it's a job right there on a mobile bench for you.

And so all the heavy lifting in this job is done. Except for lifting me up off the floor when I've been under the thing!

But I have a tool for that job too...
 

pbon

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... I'd love to see pics of the Cord replica, and I recently found out what shoulders are all about when I had bursitis in my right shoulder.
This is when it was picked up in FL 2 years ago. A lot of work has been done since — rust work on the frame, suspension work, wheels and tires, engine work (289 Cobra with C4), interior, dash/gauges, etc.). I think the replica was made in 1968. My father in law had one in the 70s when he got married and he and his wife wanted another — 50 plus years later. He said their first one had a Chrysler 440. The 289 seems to me like a better match for a fiberglass car on skinny tires.
 

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Ray Bell

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I'm thinking I have a vague recollection of seeing these in Road & Track or Car & Driver back in those times...

I would agree that a 440 might have been a bit of overkill, but I'd also have thought there were better choices than a Ford. But I am very much biassed and I'm delighted to hear that your dad is still good to have a go at things at 78. I'd love to meet him.
 

nadogail

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I am thinking about building a rolling Gantry Crane for use in my home workshop. I will be 84 years old next month and I just don’t have what strength I had a few years ago.
 

nadogail

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I am undecided; I have steel and several pounds of 7014 and 6011 electrode and my welding would benefit from the practice. But as I said I am undecided about the whole thing.
 

MBfreak

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Being the proverbial cheapskate, I used a biological gear box removal tool working on a multitude of MBs from the 50&60s. But that was 15 years ago last time, when I was only 62.
Step 1. Remove 5 of the 7 bellhousing bolts. Insert two 10mm steel rods about 10" long, threaded in one end thru two opposite bellhousing holes into the engine block.
Step 2. Lower the car and rest it on two STURDY screw jacks with two wheels shoved under front axle for added safety. Screw down jacks until I could just slide in under the gbox, with my skinny muscleless chest under the gearbox.
Remove two last bellhousing bolts.
Step 3. Slide the gearbox back over the 10 mm rods, and the box settled soft and nice on my chest.
Step 4. Son standing by my feet and pulled me out with gearbox attached.
DONE
Installation in reverse order but with screw jacks raised about 4". My biceps are barely noticeable.

Ola
 
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Ray Bell

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Looking forward to hearing what you decide, Nadogail...

And yes, Ola, I'm very familiar with that method. Peugeot gearboxes often came out by similar means, but not with the nifty bits of rod to guide them. I'm thinking there wouldn't have been room.

Actually, I did a similar thing to the rod trick when I was changing the engine in the Territory back in September. I bought a length of threaded rod the same thread as the bolts involved and used that to guide the engine to the box. As with everything else in that particular job, it was a nightmare even so, I think I took eleven days to change the engine, but that did include some cleaning up of the replacement engine, of which 12 hours was spent changing the inlet manifold gasket!

I remember one night changing a gearbox with the car parked over the 'gutter' outside where I was living. There was no concrete, just a well-worn drain, that gave me the clearance. The only thing was, it was raining, I had water coming up my trousers and out my collar as I did the job.
 

RoninB4

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I am thinking about building a rolling Gantry Crane for use in my home workshop. I will be 84 years old next month and I just don’t have what strength I had a few years ago.
-Moving my machine shop 6 years ago meant I had to come up with something fairly fast/inexpensive to move a 300 lb cutter grinder, a 500 lb lathe, a 600 lb. oak work bench, an 800 lb granite surface plate, a 2,000 lb Bridgeport turret mill, and a 2,200 lb surface grinder. I made a rolling gantry crane out of wood (2x4 2x6 4x4) and added a 2 ton chain fall) it got tested at each pick (lift 1" and wait) and it held. Cost of frame was about $120, casters from salvage, chain fall was extra. I moved all of this alone but called a roll back for the 5200 lb jig borer.

I'm not advocating anybody doing this, don't know your intended weights/purpose but I could load, unbolt the gantry frame enough to transport to the new location for unloading. I built another after 2 sessions just unhooking the chain fall. I made some machine skates to roll the machinery in/out rather than use pipes all the time.

Using structural steel would have made a better gantry frame but would have cost more and couldn't be disassembled. I still have both of them, one became a set of shelves in the basement/workshop, the other is still fully intact for moving things I shouldn't be lifting at 67 years old now. I was a tool and die maker for decades and had a daily routine of flipping heavy objects when I was younger, can't do that anymore.

A gantry crane is great but do give some consideration to a modular approach so it can be collapsed (maybe that's the wrong word to use here) or partly disassembled so it can be stored out of the way when not in use for weeks/months. It does eat up a lot of real estate on the shop floor when not in use.
 
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Ray Bell

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Cost more? I'm afraid I don't understand that...

By the time you get to your 'Middle Age' you should have stuff just lying around waiting to be used. Or know which scrap yards can provide what you want at low cost. This is all a part of knowing how to set up a workshop for 'Middle Aged' use.

As an example, the two cross-pieces I made for my suspension cradle lifter included a piece of 2" x 1" tube that had been part of a caravan bumper/spare wheel mount somebody discarded about ten years ago, the square tube was out of a dining table a friend threw out just two weeks ago, the flat pieces were also from scraps he was discarding.
 
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Ray Bell

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A four-poster is something I also want. Some people prefer 2-posters but I think there's more flexibility in a 4-poster...

You can jack up one corner when it's lifted to service a brake or wheel bearing, for instance, with the whole thing remaining completely stable. Cross-pieces between the ramps can be used for jacking, too.

It's only a matter of time...
 

nadogail

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I was in Harbor Freight today and looked at a 1 ton Chain Hoist and a trolley, I thought the Chain Hoist was very affordable but the Trolley seems very expensive.

Research and Procrastination will continue.
 

MBfreak

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For my range of clapped out MBs from the 50s, 60s, working on the driveline was easy.
All well made and acessible.
The WORST job of all, listed for 19 hours in the MB shop schedule, is replacing the wiper linkage assembly.

Ola
 

RoninB4

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I thought the Chain Hoist was very affordable but the Trolley seems very expensive.
-Yes and yes. It depends upon how much weight you need to lift and how mobile that load needs to be. On the job I used an overhead crane to move 30 ton injection molds across the factory to repair them. At home I prefer to transfer a heavy object to a smaller, more stable cart closer to the ground. A high COG in enclosed spaces makes me a bit anxious. My anxiety should not influence your work methods.

"Research and Procrastination will continue." -As men of middle age that's what we do best.
 

paredown

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Pomona, NY
Great thread -- I too have had to change my way of working as I passed 70.

I'm making an effort to be more safety conscious, especially on ladders and roofs--and with tools. I recently had to move a Sawstop by myself, and I jury-rigged a winch that I could mount in the pockets of the pickup truck bed and cranked it up into a low trailer that I rented. Slower, but safer... I've also been looking at those tripod mounted small hoists for the back of the bed, but I'm not sure they will do much for most of the stuff that I move around. I also inherited some overhead lifting stuff from my late friend (whose Sawstop I acquired) who was thinking he was going to continue woodworking as he got more infirm but I haven't had time to figure out if it will help me in my mini-shop.

The last job that I tackled where I was at my limits was putting our cast wood stove back together. It's basically big heavy cast plates glued together with stove cement and a few bolts, with a complicated geography where you have to get the parts 'just so' before they will close up into place. No way to automate that one, and I had to do the assembly in situ because once it is together, there is no moving it up onto the hearth by yourself. I was really struggling, thought I would have to take it apart, clean it all up and start over--and then I somehow stumbled onto the magic combination, and it fit together.

I was pretty sore for a few days after.
 
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Ray Bell

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Ladders and rooftops...

I'd not been worried too much about doing these things until, suddenly, I was on my own. And I felt so vulnerable! My wife died and it became apparent to me that there was never going to be anyone around. Nobody. We were living in a house we rented on a property out of town. How I loved that place:

0415dlvnhomeinafternoonsun.jpg
My much missed home. One afternoon I was up in the paddock and the lowering sun threw the right shadows and I just had to get this photo, even if I had to take it with my phone.

We were only renting there, I was 62 when I moved in and lived there for ten years, including five years after Janet died. Though we only rented the house on a bit over an acre I had the run of the 860 acres to collect firewood or just enjoy the views or exploring.
 
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Jackfre

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A you age you figure out how to do things. At 74 I’m a shadow of what I was physically, probably mentally too. About 40 yrs ago in my pipe fitting/welding career I got up one morning able to lift anything. By the end of that day I couldn’t lift, well, anything. Time and stupidity take a toll and life is the ultimate humbling experience. In my shop and around the place a big part of the enjoyment is figuring out how to get something done and then enjoying it when someone asked how you did it.
 

MFortie

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San Diego County
In my younger days bench pressing a Muncie into place was no big deal. These days I can hardly get down underneath to even think about it; well, actually the getting down part is easy. It's the getting back up part that is the challenge!

Fortunately, time (and $$$) have enabled me to buy lifts, jacks, etc., to make things easier. Just lately though, since my Chevelle body is occupying the four post and the frame the Maxjack, I had to crawl under the Can Am X3 to pull the skid plate for an oil change / service. Reminded of WHY I bought the four post!

And I'm looking at 68 in a couple of months for reference...
 
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Ray Bell

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Originally posted by Jackfre
.....a big part of the enjoyment is figuring out how to get something done and then enjoying it when someone asked how you did it.

Ah yes, they reckoned you couldn't do it, but you could! I like that bit too.

MFortie... there's an easy way to overcome that getting back up again challenge. A household stepladder, such as you'd use in the kitchen to reach high cupboards, place it somewhere near where you'll be on the floor, it can ease your progress down and make it possible to get up again, leaning on successive rungs of the ladder.
 

RoninB4

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Not long after I bought this house I took a tumble down the basement stairs at the day's end of a project, just missed the last 3 stairs. It hyperextended my knee badly and I had to crawl across the floor, up the stairs backwards. For my next trick I had to go up on the roof to temporarily patch roofing shingles that let water in. What has been impressed upon me by others is that since I live alone no one will find me until the vultures start circling when I have an accident. I've been told to check in by phone before and after all daily projects that involve ladders, risk of emergency surgery, trees, or line voltage. As a retired machinist I'm accustomed to calculated risk but early fatigue and denial that my "youthful vigor" still remains are my worst enemies. Keep a phone within reach and when tired just stop, leave it for another session. Investigate the value of a lever/fulcrum, inclined planes, and wheels. Hope everybody is well.
 

67CarGuy

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As someone approaching 40, these are wise and helpful words! Backs, knees, shoulders, etc. can decide they're done working at any time, so might as well treat 'em with respect while you can. Keep those good practices and cautionary tales coming, maybe more of the young 'uns such as myself will read and absorb them. (y)
 

cannuck

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Location
Rural SK
As someone in their '70s I can tell you physical limits deteriorating is a big deal. To make things workable I build overhead cranes (some with 12VDC ATV winches, others hand block and chain, most around a half ton up to 3/4) over every workspace possible. they are used daily. Next shop is designed around a pair of 5 ton commercially built ones. I used to pull transaxles on VW A1 chassis cars by just rolling underneath with a creeper and dropping it onto my chest, but cars (and now usually trucks) are a LOT bigger now, and I no longer share the death wish. I used to do truck trans on a big jack with platform originally intended for VW air cooled engines, but now I use a 2 post lift and a proper trans jack and split them apart before pulling.

Still do everything up to 24.5 wheels and tires by hand using a pry bar to lift. Where I used to carry 2 at a time with ease, the growth in vehicles and shrink in me usually means the SUV and truck wheels are carried one at a time. My real secret weapon is at least 2 of my grandsons who will pick up some of the workload (and some of the big stuff). The 11 YO already runs half of the equipment in the shop and yard.
 
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paredown

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 12, 2012
Messages
544
Location
Pomona, NY
<snip> My real secret weapon is at least 2 of my grandsons who will pick up some of the workload (and some of the big stuff). The 11 YO already runs half of the equipment in the shop and yard.
This is what all of us need -- extra hands!
 

CoogarXR

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2016
Messages
6,852
Location
Ohio
My back *****, so I am always down to use any tools I can to minimize straining it. For instance, I use my cherry picker to lift/lower the big cast-iron cylinder heads on inline engines. Sure, I can lift them, but as I get older, it's not wise to dead-lift a hunk of cast iron with my back bent and my arms outstretched. Plus, lowering it nice and controlled with a picker makes sure the gasket surfaces don't get nicked from slamming it down, or scuffing it.

An old mechanic once told me "if you're grunting, you're not using the correct tool". Now, you may not own the correct tool, but it's out there, lol.
 

Wiz02

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 13, 2007
Messages
2,399
Location
Southeastern PA
I'm in the same boat as many of you, while I am not a big guy, I used to just muscle many large/heavy or awkward objects around. After the hernia operation, I am changing my ways, but I am dithering about buying one of these hydraulic lift carts, mainly due to the floor space it will need. Any opinions on general level of usefulness of one of these?

 
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R

Ray Bell

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 21, 2023
Messages
87
Location
The Summit, Queensland
I've never seen anything like that, to be honest...

But I just had a look for similar things available here. For a 227kg one, roughly similar to the one Harbour Freight has for $250, we'd have to pay $AU510 (about $US380), a 350kg one, still not as highly weight-rated as the one you've linked, is $AU1,060 (about $US710).

They certainly look handy, but perhaps not as flexible as my little hand operated forklift. With it I can pick up items to put them on a pallet (I will get around to making pallets that stay straight, by the way, and have a good surface), then back out, pick up the pallet complete and it will go up to a ton. I don't know what that cost the bloke from whom I traded it (swapped a dismantled single car carport plus a little cash), but I know I got very good value.

Here's one available in your land for about $US270:


But I do feel that items like this are a part of what I had in mind starting this thread. Though I do prefer to see innovation, improvisation and putting old junk to a useful purpose to spending too much hard-earned.
 
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