Shed Build Construction
- Thread starter D45
- Start date
Vegaman_Dan
Well-known member
For an entry sill plate, I'd be tempted to just use angle iron. Cheap, easy to replace, easy to modify. Rust staining might an issue, where Aluminum won't, but it is softer so... tradeoffs.
Angle iron is cheap..........but it will rust no matter what I do, even powdercoat it
Aluminum is the best material for this job, since I want one piece covering the entire area all the way back past the door, about 1"
I found one on Ebay for $23 shipped, but it is .063" and I think it should be 1/8"
Aluminum is the best material for this job, since I want one piece covering the entire area all the way back past the door, about 1"
I found one on Ebay for $23 shipped, but it is .063" and I think it should be 1/8"
Beemer533
Well-known member
Nice! Now you just need to load it up and wish it was bigger
This post has been edited by the NSA
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Beemer533
Well-known member
Allenw
Well-known member
This post was a good rainy morning read, I was going to ask about siding for a storage shed since I need to replace the siding and roof on mine but I don't need to now.. It was a used shed that I would guese is 20 to 25 years old so not to bad for painted plywood.
Speedy2222
Active member
I like it! Definitely gives me some great ideas for fixing up the two sheds i have along with adding the third i had hoped to.
Allenw
Well-known member
It'll be a bit more interesting then that. The old plywood has started delaminating and I want it as tight as I can get it to keep mice out so I'll take it down to the studs and start over.There is wedges, for lack of a better word, under the eave over hang around the sides to come out to get the siding off to add to the fun. I can't forget the trim to keep the old barn design so the wife is happy. I'm going to patch up some holes and get through winter and make it a summer project, is the plan right now any way.
The LP siding sounds ideal for several projects I need to do. Using the ridge vent to ventilate the storage shed is a great idea, too.
The 2"x5"x48" section of aluminum diamond tread plate came in
Was only $27ish shipped
1/16" thick but it is very rigid
I plan to use clear silicon under the plate to help seal out moisture, however it still needs to be secured
There is about a 1/2" gap between the raised treads
I can't counter sink since the plate is thin
Do they sell really thin button cap screws that I can sink 1" into the wood subfloor?
I just don't want the head of the screws sticking up
Was only $27ish shipped
1/16" thick but it is very rigid
I plan to use clear silicon under the plate to help seal out moisture, however it still needs to be secured
There is about a 1/2" gap between the raised treads
I can't counter sink since the plate is thin
Do they sell really thin button cap screws that I can sink 1" into the wood subfloor?
I just don't want the head of the screws sticking up
glider
Well-known member
Your shed is looking good. You could use some liquid nail. If it comes up down the road. Put some screws in it then.
BEAVO
Well-known member
nice build...have you looked at a total cost yet? were needing a shed and i have been wondering if i want to buy a cheap shed kit,get a amish shed or build one myself....
RickP
Well-known member
The liquid nails will definitely hold it, but it will also rip up the plywood if you remove it later (I've been doing a lot of demolition lately and it's really hard to get it off without hurting the plywood). The caulk should be fine for your threshold, along with a couple of screws at the ends. You could also add some screws along the front vertical edge to make it really solid. You might be able to countersink that thin metal by deforming it instead of removing material. I would try a punch and a big hammer somewhere near the edge of the metal to see how it works.
Nice build - lots of good ideas here that I'll use for my shed. Thanks for posting.
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BEAVO
Well-known member
i have a question d45...do you have underground electric running behind the shed? i have a 10 ft variance on my property.....if i put the shed where i want it it will be sitting directly above the wires...... so should i put it there anyways? if i do how easy would this shed be to move?
BEAVO
Well-known member
if i dont build on the 10ft then it will be half way in the yard lol.....
I will hopefully get around to building the removable ramps also this weekend, along with installing the diamond tread plate for the threshold
I am thinking about building two smaller side lofts, built off of, and attached to the rear loft
This way, I wont lose any natural lighting that a front loft might block
I am thinking about building two smaller side lofts, built off of, and attached to the rear loft
This way, I wont lose any natural lighting that a front loft might block
BEAVO
Well-known member
i went out there and i still had marks where oups came out and marked electric phone etc lines for when we got our fence in..... looks like the power lines are only about 5ft off the property line so i think i will put it there!!
Beemer533
Well-known member
Looks good!The 2"x5"x48" section of aluminum diamond tread plate came in
Was only $27ish shipped
1/16" thick but it is very rigid
I plan to use clear silicon under the plate to help seal out moisture, however it still needs to be secured
There is about a 1/2" gap between the raised treads
I can't counter sink since the plate is thin
Do they sell really thin button cap screws that I can sink 1" into the wood subfloor?
I just don't want the head of the screws sticking up
Here are some truss head screws that would be relatively flush : http://www.mcmaster.com/#93406a255/=uc329c
They are for metal really, but they should work..
You might be able to find something similar locally..
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