Show us your cool, "old" drill press

[damon18]

Found this Sears Dunlap 103.23620 today, it's a much more manageable size than the Craftsman 150 I got recently. I can actually pick it up and put on a bench and then put it away. Was this kind of the budget line? I think mine may be missing the correct multi-position pulley on the motor.

Haven't tried to run it because I can see the motor is full of mud-dauber nests. I'll take it apart (and the rest of the drill) for a good cleaning.

There was some sort of tool clamped in the chuck, what is it? The chuck does move freely and the drill has a little spring return left when the handle is moved.

 

[Outlawmws]

It is the budget line there will be one ball bearing in the quill assembly, the rest should be oi lite bushings.

Check the tension spring unless someone has locked the quil in the down position

The motor is a cast-off replacement and you definitely will want to fins a 4 step motor pulley, the smaller the better for more usable speeds.

The other option is to salvage a treadmill motor and go variable speed (I did this on my Rockwell and love it), then you really only need a single pulley on the motor.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

Damon, your mystery tool is a circle cutter.

 

[damon18]

Damon, your mystery tool is a circle cutter.

Thanks! So like a hole saw but only for sheet metal or thin stock?

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[Smokeshow69]

Thanks! So like a hole saw but only for sheet metal or thin stock?

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Yes, sheet rock and very thin wood


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[Outlawmws]

Sheet metal would be difficult as when it broke through it would likely catch and either slip the belt or deform the sheet badly.


Not recommended, but I once used a very heavy duty one a couple of times as a boring bar in aluminum that was actually a slip fit on the shoulder of a bearing. - One was the first cut in am adapter housing for a transfer case auto ****** setup. then worked my way to the less discriminating clearance holes. The other was a straight adapter plate. - again in aluminum.

 

[BradnCali]

I picked up this 1946 Delta DP yesterday for $69. It has the No. 1 Morse taper and a shop built two-pulley speed reducer on it. The table appears free of any blemishes.

Brad

 

[Outlawmws]

Wow. that's a Usuck deal and that double reducer pulley is WAY more that usual - was that because they used a 3600 RPM motor?

 

[BradnCali]

Wow. that's a Usuck deal and that double reducer pulley is WAY more that usual - was that because they used a 3600 RPM motor?

The motor is too crusty yet to know which Delta motor I’ve got yet. It looks to be just like a Westinghouse manufactured Delta similar to another I’ve got which is 1725 rpms.

 

[acer66]

View media item 99606
Picked it up a few weeks ago as my first ever drill press.
I am still figuring out what exact model and year and how to dial it in.
So far I narrowed it down to early 50ties with the info over at vintage machinery.

 

[Whitworth]

I think that's a Morse #2.

I don't get these speed reducers popularity. This isn't the 19th century, HS steels are the standard for drills. Like what were they drilling holes in on that little drill press at 10 rpm?

 

[Outlawmws]

The bigger the hole, the harder the material being drilled, the slower you need to go, even with HSS.

I fairly routinely drill or cut (hole saws) larger than the usual 1/2" fractional drill, and all too often in steel - over 1" you go REAL slow...

 

[dutchgray]

Most of the third pully speed reducers only get you down to ~100rpm anyway, which is only really good to about 1" twist drills in steel unless your machine is really heavy and has the power to push them. Then you could turn them closer to what the speed charts say.
With large hole saws, the slower the better as it helps with keeping them cool which keeps them alive, you can wreck the teeth on a holesaw in seconds if its running fast.

 

[JRBDJB]

My Atlas 1060

 

[ClappedOutBport]

I think that's a Morse #2.

I don't get these speed reducers popularity. This isn't the 19th century, HS steels are the standard for drills. Like what were they drilling holes in on that little drill press at 10 rpm?

I have to agree that 4 pulleys is ridiculous. Nobody is ever changing belts on that thing. 3 can have some use however. As for drilling slow, I was running my DP at about 30 RPM yesterday. But I was drilling 1 11/16" in steel. The bit can go a lot faster, but I don't have that much available horsepower. The other advantage of a really slow speed is that you can get by with a lot more chatter. I had one chip break before the other which launched it into a chatter regime until it got established. But since it was running so slow I could just let it do its thing with no real danger to the drill.

 

[dubdoc]

Best $100 I ever spent.

 

[350XinNY]

Anyone help ID my vintage old drill press?

My Post in Vintage Tool Discussion has pics....

Thanks!
Bruce

 

[freebo86]

Show us your cool, "old" drill press

Just picked up this Walker Turner serial 1-944 appears to be complete with foot control.

It’s oversized for what I had originally been looking for a bench top as my garage is not the biggest. Needs a new outlet plug as the original 2 prong is cracked and the toggle switch may need to be replaced but I do have the original switch housing.

What’s the best way to clean these and restore? Not sure if I’ll repaint it but at least get everything cleaned up as it has a fair bit of saw dust on it.







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[Outlawmws]

Nice find!

Frank Lee has had wonderful results with Grez-Off.

 

[freebo86]

So I took the entire press apart, cleaned everything. Stripped the old paint as it was chipped etc. Going to repaint in and in the process of currently doing so.

After inspecting the parts and pieces, I noticed the belt that came with the unit is in rough shape. On the belt its written Gates Truflex 2450, when I look at the Manual from VintageMachinery it lists the Belt as a VB42 - 42". However when I search for this belt under that part it lists it as 44".

Any idea what I should be getting? The Gates one that I took of measures approx 21/22" half size so its like 42/44" lol.. What is the correct belt as the manual lists 42" but the part it lists comes back as 44".

 

[Davefr]

So I took the entire press apart, cleaned everything. Stripped the old paint as it was chipped etc. Going to repaint in and in the process of currently doing so.

After inspecting the parts and pieces, I noticed the belt that came with the unit is in rough shape. On the belt its written Gates Truflex 2450, when I look at the Manual from VintageMachinery it lists the Belt as a VB42 - 42". However when I search for this belt under that part it lists it as 44".

Any idea what I should be getting? The Gates one that I took of measures approx 21/22" half size so its like 42/44" lol.. What is the correct belt as the manual lists 42" but the part it lists comes back as 44".

The VB42 was probably based on 42" inside circumference. On a 1/2" belt that's the same as 44" outside circumference.

I bet the Gates 2450 is 45".

Get either VB42 or 2450 and you should be fine.

V Belt specs can be confusing.

That machine looks to be in great shape!

 

[freebo86]

The VB42 was probably based on 42" inside circumference. On a 1/2" belt that's the same as 44" outside circumference.

I bet the Gates 2450 is 45".

Get either VB42 or 2450 and you should be fine.

V Belt specs can be confusing.

That machine looks to be in great shape!

Thanks! And you are correct, further research show that exactly. I’ll get a belt that’s 44” which is what the manual calls for.

I will be assembling this again in the next day or two and I’m curious, for the quill I was going to use grease for where the teeth mesh etc. However for the other parts that hold the table, quill etc. I was going to rub it down with just motor oil as I did use a fine brush and remove all the surface rust. Also intend to apply a thin coat of oil on the main column that holds the press. Is this the stuff to use or what? I don’t think there is any need to use grease on all the components?


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[lafester]

Grab some non detergent 20 wt from Walmart and use that.

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[y'sguy]

I have had good luck lately with Boeshield. Won't attract dust as easily if at all.And has a wax like finish when dry. check it out.

 

[Davefr]

On my DP's, I use Superlube silicone grease on the quill and table lift gearbox. I use it very sparingly.

For metal parts like post, table, etc. I use Johnson's Paste Wax. Sometimes on cast iron tables I use a thinned down polyurethane and wipe it on then wipe it off. (just enough to dampen the surface but not enough to build a layer)

 

[freebo86]

Show us your cool, "old" drill press

So gentlemen, I’m putting this thing back together and all is going well except the return spring doesn’t seem to be effectively working. See the video below I took.

Basically the tighter I wind this thing the less the quill returns and the harder it is to even lower the quill as I’m winding it more then.

If I do it a few times then I get the response as the video below and it goes back a bit then stops. I can’t seem to find the sweet spot. The bolt and washer on the outside of the return knob are not very tight either in order to let the handle spin back.

Can someone enlighten me what’s going on? I degreased the return spring but never took it out of the housing. Should I spray it down with something or grease again? Between the quill and pinion I applied No. 2 grease (red), but I wouldn’t believe this would cause the sticking?

Does the quill need to be in the fully pulled up position or lowered position when I install this thing? I just of this and not sure if it makes a difference? I’ve been doing it with quill fully lifted up (chuck at the highest position).

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[dutchgray]

The spring will need some lubrication to work properly, it does seem to be sticking in the video.

 

[Whitworth]

Make sure; quill is oiled and spindle oiled where it goes in the pulley. Quill lock not too tight. And pinion seated properly, ( not too far out and not to tight either)

 

[freebo86]

Make sure; quill is oiled and spindle oiled where it goes in the pulley. Quill lock not too tight. And pinion seated properly, ( not too far out and not to tight either)

Well the quill isn’t oiled it’s greased.. perhaps that’s is my issue? What is the spindle your referring to and to what pulley?


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[Davefr]

Is the quill lock lever totally free or creating some resistance? Is there a small quill adjustment screw that's too tight?

Is the depth gauge rubbing against it's guide?

Does the quill raise up and down smoothly without the spring?

Are you sure the spring's housing is not causing binding anywhere?

Are the casting holes for the handle shaft clean and lightly lubricated?

Does the spring look like it's original and not broken or modified?

Just some suggestions.

 

[freebo86]

Show us your cool, "old" drill press

Is the quill lock lever totally free or creating some resistance? Is there a small quill adjustment screw that's too tight?



Is the depth gauge rubbing against it's guide?



Does the quill raise up and down smoothly without the spring?



Are you sure the spring's housing is not causing binding anywhere?



Are the casting holes for the handle shaft clean and lightly lubricated?



Does the spring look like it's original and not broken or modified?



Just some suggestions.

Quill lock fully disengages, I’ve even pulled it out to see and no difference.

I removed the depth gauge afterwards as I had thought the same thing was perhaps happening but this isn’t the case.

Yes goes up and down very smooth. It’s so smooth that if I remove the quill lock and pull the return spring the quill pulls itself down without any effort. So it slides smoothly.

I don’t think it’s binding but once it’s on there it’s hard to see what’s going on.

Everything is lubed and I checked again.

It looks original. It is broken now the piece snapped off.. gonna have to drill a new hole in it to catch on the set screw... last piece left to have this thing put back together.




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[Oregon rock crusher]

I broke shelter in place protocol today to pick up this nice B F Barnes drill. BF Barnes was only around from the late 1890's to 1907 or so. Pat date is 1900. Just couldn't pass it up. It's a 12" bench model with some nice features for the day and pretty much complete. I like the wood handled screw shaft for raising the table. Also the 5 step cone pulleys. It even had the tight/loose pulleys and shifter handle but missing the fork. Almost all of the original finish is intact.

It does have a moderate arc of shame but at least they didn't drill clear through. I thought it was cool to have the Brass hardware sellers tag, CW Marwedel out of SF, on the upper spindle support too. There is a 105 stamped into the lower spindle support, possibly machine number or S/N. It also came with a vintage Westinghouse 1/3 hp motor. The motors oiler covers have W's cast in them . It fits in well with my growing collection of vintage bench top drills. A few pics. Ed.

 

[Craptain]

Very nice indeed.

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[crguy]

Good catch Ed!

 

[ClappedOutBport]

I broke shelter in place protocol today to pick up this nice B F Barnes drill. BF Barnes was only around from the late 1890's to 1907 or so. Pat date is 1900. Just couldn't pass it up. It's a 12" bench model with some nice features for the day and pretty much complete. I like the wood handled screw shaft for raising the table. Also the 5 step cone pulleys. It even had the tight/loose pulleys and shifter handle but missing the fork. Almost all of the original finish is intact.

It does have a moderate arc of shame but at least they didn't drill clear through. I thought it was cool to have the Brass hardware sellers tag, CW Marwedel out of SF, on the upper spindle support too. There is a 105 stamped into the lower spindle support, possibly machine number or S/N. It also came with a vintage Westinghouse 1/3 hp motor. The motors oiler covers have W's cast in them . It fits in well with my growing collection of vintage bench top drills. A few pics. Ed.

Please.

That's a lovely little drill. I need to find a small one someday to compliment the large one. They just run so well. What the max speed on that little guy? I do like Barnes table lift style the best.

 

[Provincial]

Nice find Ed. I broke protocol to pick up a Miller Syncrowave 180 SD TIG welder this morning. Nice young man, just as cautious about the virus as I am. He was worried for his parents and grandparents! There is hope for the future!

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

Very nice indeed.

Thanks Craptain!

Good catch Ed!

Thanks crguy....not quite as cool as the Mechanics Mach Co friction drive bench top but it's in the ball park. B F Barnes got bought out by Rockford Drilling machine co. a few years before MMC did as well.

Please.

That's a lovely little drill. I need to find a small one someday to compliment the large one. They just run so well. What the max speed on that little guy? I do like Barnes table lift style the best.

Thanks ClappedOutBport! They do purr along pretty smoothly when all is well and oiled up. This little press has an MT 1 spindle and if I use the 1725 motor it came with I would have the countershaft turning at 978 rpm and the upper shaft turning from 315 low speed to 2800 high speed. I didn't count any final reduction at the pinion/crown gear but it's likely around 1:1 so not much change at the spindle.

Nice find Ed. I broke protocol to pick up a Miller Syncrowave 180 SD TIG welder this morning. Nice young man, just as cautious about the virus as I am. He was worried for his parents and grandparents! There is hope for the future!

Thanks Provincial...Nice find on the Miller, I think I saw that on CL this morning too, with extra's for a darn good price. We were careful making the deal too. Probably less risky than going to the grocery store. Ed.

 

[ClappedOutBport]

2800 is cooking. I don't think I'd want it running quite that fast for the bearings sake and the risk of a pulley explosion depending on diameter. It may be designed for that, I dunno. I need to balance my Royersford, the upper pulley causes a bit of shake. Just got to get to it one of these days.

 

[Oregon rock crusher]

It's not an excessive rpm for a modern drill using small diameter drills and I'm not really worried about the pulley's flying apart. It is higher than this drill needs to be running in it's retirement though. I'll likely mount an extra counter shaft to cut the input speed when I get around to it. The babbit bearings on the lower shaft do have a just a bit of play but the head shaft feels pretty tight still. Hard to say how long a PO may have run it off this electric motor if ever. Ed.

 

[AdrianBoomer]

nice drill press Ed! I want a tour of your shop, looks like a lot of great machines in there. But the Dp is awesome