Show us your handplanes

[RTM]

Polyurethane finishes are a ***** to remove, and the dust is nasty stuff.
Last time I had to remove any I went at it with sandpaper and a full respirator mask.

Abrasives won’t be happening here, which is why I’m likely to leave it as is.

 

[ararat]

Thinking rosewood, but but haven’t done a density calculation yet. Friends thought rosewood as well.


Probably won’t actively remove it, may let the wear of me using it see if it makes a difference . Is lacquer thinner the answer, or acetone? I know finger nail polish remover worked on a home made coffee table. Is either gentler to the system?

Either way it's some nice wood for a plane.

I removed poly from a chisel handle and ended up using a card scraper and then sandpaper.

 

[RTM]

Either way it's some nice wood for a plane.

I removed poly from a chisel handle and ended up using a card scraper and then sandpaper.

Card scraper would be my choice well ahead of abrasives, but hoping I can remove the final bits chemically. I really hate sanding, it dulls the appearance so much.

 

[ararat]

Card scraper would be my choice well ahead of abrasives, but hoping I can remove the final bits chemically. I really hate sanding, it dulls the appearance so much.

That's the best part of using handplanes and scrapers is that it pretty much eliminates the need for sanding.

 

[milkovich]

112 Back online. It was a mutt, but now it’s a mutt with rosewood furniture. The knob is wrong (it’s off an early 6/7) till I can find a low 3/4 knob. I thought it might be a store brand plane but it does have the sw logo on the cap screw. The thicker hock blade works a treat.

 

[Eric Brown]

An interesting bronze plane. No markings. The skate on the bottom is about 1/8" wide, 3/8" high and 9" long.
Thinking this plane was used after a 1/8" wide slot is cut into a piece of wood. The cutter has a Tee shaped set of scooped cutters.
This would leave a slot with a hollow at the bottom. Perhaps used for canvas or screens stretched and a cord pushed into the slot until it hits bottom where it could expand.

Anybody know for sure?

 

[RTM]

I would guess weatherstripping plane, like a Stanley 248

The Superior Works - Patrick's Blood & Gore: Planes #90 - #100

Google his site for the word weatherstripping to see other options like the 238, 78w, and many more.

Bronze tells me pattern maker made, so might be specific to their trade as option B

 

[Old tool guy]

This would leave a slot with a hollow at the bottom. Perhaps used for canvas or screens stretched and a cord pushed into the slot until it hits bottom where it could expand.

So you’re thinking like a t-slot? Wouldn’t the chips clog up?

 

[Beerhippie]

So you’re thinking like a t-slot? Wouldn’t the chips clog up?

I can't see any way that could cut a T-slot. Maybe with a hydraulic press pushing it?

 

[Old tool guy]

I can't see any way that could cut a T-slot. Maybe with a hydraulic press pushing it?

It’s a t-shaped cutter. But i’m really stretching to understand how it would be used.

 

[Beerhippie]

It’s a t-shaped cutter. But i’m really stretching to understand how it would be used.

A T-shaped cutter doesn't mean it cuts a T-shaped slot. What's cutting the edges of the T? How do you "ease" it into the cut?

 

[FullRaceMerc]

Can the cutter be moved to the side, so it would cut next to the center guide? Set up higher & to the side I'd wonder if it would cut beads on cabinet face frames prior to mitre work & assembly.

 

[Eric Brown]

I'll try to explain again. There first has to be a 1/8" slot before this plane is used. The cutter then only has to move the shavings from the side cutters up the slot. I tried it once on a piece of soft pine. It worked, but wasn't fun. Today instead of a cord they use a more rubber like strip that compresses.

 

[Eric Brown]

Union Manufacturing is beginning to sell the X-Plane designs again. It uses a vertical post with a nut on each side of the adjuster yoke. High quality. They just had a video conference and it has Robert Porter of Union Manufacturing, talking with Robin Lee of Lee Valley, Joel Moskowitz of Tools for Working Wood, Paul Hamler miniature maker, and several other people. It was a very interesting conversation they all had about the state of manufacturing hand tools.

 

[crguy]

Union Manufacturing is beginning to sell the X-Plane designs again. It uses a vertical post with a nut on each side of the adjuster yoke. High quality. They just had a video conference and it has Robert Porter of Union Manufacturing, talking with Robin Lee of Lee Valley, Joel Moskowitz of Tools for Working Wood, Paul Hamler miniature maker, and several other people. It was a very interesting conversation they all had about the state of manufacturing hand tools.

Porter found out making new planes isn't all that easy. And then, trying to find enough buyers to make them profitable is a another real problem.

 

[Beerhippie]

X-Plane designs

If it can't do at least Mach 5, it ain't an X Plane.

 

[Beerhippie]

My first spokeshave:





Mostly just dirty. Iron needs some work, but not too bad for $8.

At least I won't have to worry about breaking it.

 

[ararat]

My first spokeshave:





Mostly just dirty. Iron needs some work, but not too bad for $8.

At least I won't have to worry about breaking it.

Unbreakable is a pretty bold claim. Probably "malleable iron"

 

[Beerhippie]

Unbreakable is a pretty bold claim. Probably "malleable iron"

When I was younger, I took a claim of "unbreakable" as a challenge. Broke some pretty nice stuff. I don't do that anymore.

 

[CRSINMICH]

Eric Brown: Judging by the the fourth picture you attached, the plane you posted would cut a bead. It may have been based on or inspired by the 1878 patent by Justus Traut. It doesn't look like a commercially produced plane but it was well made. I think the T shape of the cutter may have been to provide relief. It's possible that there was another cutter that would have cut a 'hollow' that would match the 'round' or bead. It is a lovely plane that may well be one-of-a-kind.

​

Beerhippie: That is a nice spokeshave based on a Stanley 151. Notice that the Marples number is A151. Coincidentally, this tool also could have been based on a Justus Traut patent. It's really not all that surprising because Mr. Traut had at least 150 patents.

​

 

[Eric Brown]

Eric Brown: Judging by the the fourth picture you attached, the plane you posted would cut a bead. It may have been based on or inspired by the 1878 patent by Justus Traut. It doesn't look like a commercially produced plane but it was well made. I think the T shape of the cutter may have been to provide relief. It's possible that there was another cutter that would have cut a 'hollow' that would match the 'round' or bead. It is a lovely plane that may well be one-of-a-kind.

​

Beerhippie: That is a nice spokeshave based on a Stanley 151. Notice that the Marples number is A151. Coincidentally, this tool also could have been based on a Justus Traut patent. It's really not all that surprising because Mr. Traut had at least 150 patents.

​

Definitely not a one off. I have seen others like it. I still think it was used to stretch either canvas or screen wire in a frame.

 

[bmwrd0]

What do I have?








It came with a Sweethart blade and a cap that doesn't work when they are all paired up. I fit the knob off of my Stanley #8 and it screwed right in. I want to say it is a 4-1/2c type 5, but the adjuster is throwing me off.

What do I have?

 

[WisJim]

What do I have?




It came with a Sweethart blade and a cap that doesn't work when they are all paired up. I fit the knob off of my Stanley #8 and it screwed right in. I want to say it is a 4-1/2c type 5, but the adjuster is throwing me off.

What do I have?

It's an Ohio O4 1/2C. The Ohio planes used Stanley numbers with an "O" prefix and they used tapered blades that were thicker at the cutting end. I like the couple of Ohio planes that I have, but they parts mostly don't interchange with similar Stanleys.

 

[bmwrd0]

Interesting. Thanks, Jim, Ohio was an idea I had but wasn't sure and didn't want to jinx myself on it. I have a #5 that might become a parts donner, as I like this one, and the SW blade does not work at all!

 

[RTM]

Interesting. Thanks, Jim, Ohio was an idea I had but wasn't sure and didn't want to jinx myself on it. I have a #5 that might become a parts donner, as I like this one, and the SW blade does not work at all!

I have a couple of 2-3/8” wide tapered blades, probably for woodies, that might work. Let’s chat later in a PM

 

[milkovich]

One of the cool things about tool hunting here in Akron Ohio is that there's a good chance that the tools were somehow related to the rubber industry. My patternmaker's vise supposedly came from Goodyear Aerospace (which Lockheed later bought). Here's an estate sale No. 4 handplane from the "type 17" ww2 years which isn't that remarkable except that it's a 4C (maybe unusual for a type 17?) and under the rust was marked BFG 3990.

 

[Fred Knox]

Stanley #19, type 5 (1899-1900) block plane with “S R & L” casting. I’ve only seen that casting mark before in photos, although I’m having a hard time finding another example on GJ, or on the internet via an AI search.
Four patents through 8.3.97 (Hand-y grip) on iron adjuster, and “S” casting mark under lever cap. Trademark J on iron.

 

[Eric Brown]

112 Back online. It was a mutt, but now it’s a mutt with rosewood furniture. The knob is wrong (it’s off an early 6/7) till I can find a low 3/4 knob. I thought it might be a store brand plane but it does have the sw logo on the cap screw. The thicker hock blade works a treat.

Question: Did you relieve the corners or keep it straight across?

 

[milkovich]

Question: Did you relieve the corners or keep it straight across?

I have not yet. I'm still figuring out scraper planes. I can roll the edge and get it to cut, but It's tearing out ever so slightly, especially on softwoods like cedar. On oak, it seems to work fine, but I haven't tried it on any reversing grain or tough spots.

 

[RTM]

I have not yet. I'm still figuring out scraper planes. I can roll the edge and get it to cut, but It's tearing out ever so slightly, especially on softwoods like cedar. On oak, it seems to work fine, but I haven't tried it on any reversing grain or tough spots.

This is really made for nasty woods, reversing grain, diving and rising, knots neighboring. I've never tried mine on cedar, but if imagine taking a lighter cut might help w tear out.

 

[Bryan Burns]

My Stanley 101 three and a half inch pocket block plane. I'm very fond of it as is always does exactly what I want it to do, Bought it at a tool meet for $15 a year or two ago,

 

[Eric Brown]

I have not yet. I'm still figuring out scraper planes. I can roll the edge and get it to cut, but It's tearing out ever so slightly, especially on softwoods like cedar. On oak, it seems to work fine, but I haven't tried it on any reversing grain or tough spots.

I have ordered a Lee Valley thick blade to put into my scraper plane and a large Accu-Burr to turn the edge. In the meantime I have taken my plane apart and verified it was indeed made by Sargent. It's a #59 but with Fulton on the blade. The number 59 was found on the inside of the two parts that clamp the blade. Almost impossible to see with taking apart.

 

[RTM]

have ordered a Lee Valley thick blade to put into my scraper plane and a large Accu-Burr to turn the edge.

What thickness did you get? The blade that comes with my LN 112 version is so thick (0.140), it works better sharpened at 45°, compared to putting a burr on it. Friend of mine who was good with scrapers was convinced he could turn a burr that would work better. Hope the 1/8” works as well. Only bear is getting the blade jigged up to really hold the 45° angle on that wide blade.

 

[Eric Brown]

What thickness did you get? The blade that comes with my LN 112 version is so thick (0.140), it works better sharpened at 45°, compared to putting a burr on it. Friend of mine who was good with scrapers was convinced he could turn a burr that would work better. Hope the 1/8” works as well. Only bear is getting the blade jigged up to really hold the 45° angle on that wide blade.

3/32". Think I will try the burr first and then maybe an angle.

 

[milkovich]

3/32". Think I will try the burr first and then maybe an angle.

I did the 45 degree bevel and used a burnisher to get the bur up. Per the instructions, it doesn't take much of a burr to work, it also shouldn't be shaving sharp? I really haven't had much call to use it although my dad gave me a stack of plain sawn (what we call slab sawn) cherry and that might be where I end up needing it. I've been on a machinist box kick and I'm not paying the big dollars for the nicer chests plus I love the look of a cherry machinist box over oak. Trying to decide if I want to bother with teeny tiny blind dovetails on the drawer fronts, I'm sure I'll run out of talent pretty quickly and normal dovetails might look cooler anyay.

 

[Eric Brown]

I did the 45 degree bevel and used a burnisher to get the bur up. Per the instructions, it doesn't take much of a burr to work, it also shouldn't be shaving sharp? I really haven't had much call to use it although my dad gave me a stack of plain sawn (what we call slab sawn) cherry and that might be where I end up needing it. I've been on a machinist box kick and I'm not paying the big dollars for the nicer chests plus I love the look of a cherry machinist box over oak. Trying to decide if I want to bother with teeny tiny blind dovetails on the drawer fronts, I'm sure I'll run out of talent pretty quickly and normal dovetails might look cooler anyay.

A machinist chest sounds ambitious. Have fun.

 

[milkovich]

A machinist chest sounds ambitious. Have fun.

Here's the "mk1" version I whipped up out of recycled plywood, I lucked out on this one, tall enough for all my block planes, and deep enough for all my brace bits. If It had a triangle top box (like a montezuma or dutch style) for chisels it'd be perfect for woodworking tools.

 

[Jgaz]

I did the 45 degree bevel and used a burnisher to get the bur up. Per the instructions, it doesn't take much of a burr to work, it also shouldn't be shaving sharp? I really haven't had much call to use it although my dad gave me a stack of plain sawn (what we call slab sawn) cherry and that might be where I end up needing it. I've been on a machinist box kick and I'm not paying the big dollars for the nicer chests plus I love the look of a cherry machinist box over oak. Trying to decide if I want to bother with teeny tiny blind dovetails on the drawer fronts, I'm sure I'll run out of talent pretty quickly and normal dovetails might look cooler anyay.

Here are a couple of Machinist Chests I made using box joints
Cherry with a walnut top

Oak
Top chest built in 2011 from oak I cut and dried
Bottom riser built in 2023

 

[Eric Brown]

Here is a recent project I did for a neighbor. He has this 22" long plane, missing the cutter and wedge. The strike button was pounded down to nothing. So I made a new wedge from quartersawn. Made a new strike button out of Osage Orange. The cutter was bought on E-bay.
The plane was marked Scioto Tool. The cutter I got was a Sandusky Tool warranted cast steel tapered, 2 5/8" wide.
Put a quick sharpen on it and it works fine. Wedge locks in tight. No chatter when cutting.