Show us your handplanes

[CRSINMICH]

Joe: That's an incredible haul of planes etc. Are they for bragging or using? I wonder if that small router isn't actually made of bronze. I would think brass would be too soft in that application.

 

[RTM]

Nice instant collection, most are not easy finds.

 

[Half-fast eddie]

I bought a No 12 about 2 yrs ago. I found it interesting that the blade is sharpened to 45*. Not 90* like a scraper, or 28-ish* like a plane.

 

[crguy]

I bought a No 12 about 2 yrs ago. I found it interesting that the blade is sharpened to 45*. Not 90* like a scraper, or 28-ish* like a plane.

That just means an owner sharpened it incorrectly.

 

[Half-fast eddie]

That just means an owner sharpened it incorrectly.

Maybe. Maybe not. From the Hock Tools website …

 

[RTM]

That just means an owner sharpened it incorrectly.

That's a matter of opinion and usage. I got my LN 112 before I ever saw a real #12, and their monstrous thick blade is sharpened at 45°. During my early struggles, one of my buddies, much more knowledgeable on #12s etc, tried to sharpen my #112 to a scraper profile, with the burnished edge, rolled appropriately. Could not get it to cut to save his @$$. The blade worked freehand tho. I took it back to 45°, set it up per directions, and it cut great. He was stupefied. I later put a 45° on a regular #12 blade, and it did work just fine, and much easier than burnishing the scraper edge.

What works for the user is correct, IMO

I once went looking for vintage Stanley sharpening directions, and never found any for a #112. Should try again now that the ITCL has such a diversity of literature.

 

[pfaustus]

Whether a 12 or an 80, scrapers generally use a blade sharpened at 45 degrees. Years ago, I ran into a guy selling NOS Stanley 80 scraper blades - ground at 45 from the factory.

 

[CRSINMICH]

A USE FOR #5 1/4?​

I watched a video recently of a guy using a bevel up block plane to level the top edges of a box. It seemed like a good choice until I noticed that he had trouble sweeping along the long sides of the box. I've used a #4 for that but it seemed a bit oversized and clunky for that use, however the extra length helped keep the plane riding on two adjacent sides at all times making it easier to keep all the sides level and in the same plane. I have had a #5 1/4 for some years and never used it. I thought it might be the right balance between plane length and nimbleness so I gave it a quick hone and tried it out. It seemed agile and well suited to the task. I'll let you know how it works out over time.

A #5 1/4 is 2 1/2" longer than a #4 but 1/4" narrower.

 

[RTM]

5-1/4 is waayyyyy underrated. That is a great use for it, as well as joining 18”-24” skinny boards. Hope it works for you.

 

[txlonghorn1989]

Hit an estate sale this morning after seeing the wooden handle of what I thought was a chisel in an ad pic. Turned out to be a vintage Greenlee 1/2" gouge but there were some other finds as well... Stanley No 4 type 16 smoothing plane, Pexto 5310 ratcheting brace, OVB 1/2" chisel and a Pexto 3/4" chisel. I don't know anything about the Pexto brace but I have been hoping to come across a decent brace. Is this good one? They seem to sell for around $20 on ebay. I spent $7 this morning.

 

[RTM]

Pexto is good for almost any tool, except hand planes. I have a 112 and 8010c, both great tools.

 

[Joe Huld]

Hit an estate sale this morning after seeing the wooden handle of what I thought was a chisel in an ad pic. Turned out to be a vintage Greenlee 1/2" gouge but there were some other finds as well... Stanley No 4 type 16 smoothing plane, Pexto 5310 ratcheting brace, OVB 1/2" chisel and a Pexto 3/4" chisel. I don't know anything about the Pexto brace but I have been hoping to come across a decent brace. Is this good one? They seem to sell for around $20 on ebay. I spent $7 this morning.

The OVB is a Stanley Everlasting made by Stanley and sold by Hibbert Spencer & Bartlett

 

[CRSINMICH]

tx: Greenlee made very good edge tools. They're one of my favorite vintage chisels. Pexto too (but not their crappy plane). My all time favorite go-to chisel is a 3/4" Stanley Everlasting. The brace looks to be well made. Chuck up an auger and try it out. Btw, vintage auger bits can be had cheaply. Like Joe said OVB was from Hibbard Spencer and Bartlett. OVB stands for Our Very Best. Add in the #4 and you made a good score. Congrats.

 

[txlonghorn1989]

This is my 3rd Pexto chisel. I definitely like the other two. Also, excited to read that the OVB chisel is actually one of Stanley's Everlasting chisels rebranded. My first Everlasting chisel. I can't wait to give these a try. FWIW, this is actually the first gouge that I have and first Greenlee chisel/gouge. Another one I'm excited to try. I'll have to learn how to sharpen a gouge. Maybe the recent cone shaped stone I picked is going to come in handy.

 

[CRSINMICH]

OFFICIAL STANLEY INSTRUCTIONS FOR SHARPENING No.80 SCRAPER PLANE​

I knew I had this someplace and I finally found it.

 

[RTM]

But remember, an 80 is not a 12 or 112, we gotta keep digging.

 

[CRSINMICH]

In an 1898 STANLEY catalog, I found some indirect support for the idea that blades for #112 scraper planes were sharpened to 45 degrees. Look carefully at the bottom of the extra blade. It looks like it could be 45 degrees however, it's also a toothing blade so there's that. Just to muddy things a little more, the second picture is of a #80 from a 1914 STANLEY catalog. The drawing of the replacement blade looks like it was meant to show bevels on the top and bottom edge. What I really found interesting is that the top edge looks like it has a radius. What's up with that?

 

[CRSINMICH]

tx: Serendipitously, while I was looking for the STANLEY scraping plane information, I found a PEXTO catalog. Here's your 5310 brace and some information about PEXTO braces in general. After some quick math on my calculator, I figgerd that 1/6th of a dozen is 2.

 

[RTM]

In an 1898 STANLEY catalog, I found some indirect support for the idea that blades for #112 scraper planes were sharpened to 45 degrees. Look carefully at the bottom of the extra blade. It looks like it could be 45 degrees however, it's also a toothing blade so there's that. Just to muddy things a little more, the second picture is of a #80 from a 1914 STANLEY catalog. The drawing of the replacement blade looks like it was meant to show bevels on the top and bottom edge. What I really found interesting is that the top edge looks like it has a radius. What's up with that?

Nice finds.


I wonder if Stanley changed this over time, and when? More digging when I have a better connection.

All of my toothing blades have a typical bevel to them.
I’ve seen a guy using a radiused scraper for smoothing a hollowed out chair seat he cut w a Scorp. Never seen on in the wild tho.

 

[txlonghorn1989]

tx: Serendipitously, while I was looking for the STANLEY scraping plane information, I found a PEXTO catalog. Here's your 5310 brace and some information about PEXTO braces in general. After some quick math on my calculator, I figgerd that 1/6th of a dozen is 2.

CRS Thanks! I found that same catalog yesterday as well! I certainly noticed the Pexto claim that the first brace made in America was a Pexto brace. In 1850 no less. So the Archive comment associated with the catalog says this was probably a 1938 or 1939 catalog. I loved finding the 5310 there but noticed it was one of their lower models. I was trying to decipher that 1/6th of a dozen and came to the same conclusion you did - 2. What a funny way to list those. I'm going to further clean this brace up and oil it then look for a set of bits. I need to figure out how the ratchet was used and how to properly put bits in the brace but I'm actually thinking I might use this. Good stuff!

 

[Farmer J.]

I am well out of my depth reading the scraper blade angle sharpening debate, I have heard of them but until recently never understood what they were for except some vague notion that they were used in fine cabinet making and veneer work..
Anyway, here's my little modest contribution to the 'angle of sharpening questions' if it's any help:
Recently I have been making a little shelf and coat rack from some Cedar of Lebanon, from a tree which was beautiful whilst it was growing (until it blew down some years ago!) and continues to give me pleasure using some of the timber. The lovely grain pattern is a real challenge to smooth, and takes 'tear out' to a whole new level for me! A friend who is a real life modern professional joiner had a look at these whilst i had them on the bench and I was bemoaning the difficulty of obtaining a smooth finish. I had a couple of freshly sharpened spokeshave blades, he picked up one and showed me how by holding it at 45 deg and drawing it trailing back across the surface with the bevel away from him it cut beautiful shallow curls and left a smooth finish. So, the point of this being, Stan says: "Scraper works with blade edge at 45 deg".. !

 

[RTM]

I had a couple of freshly sharpened spokeshave blades, he picked up one and showed me how by holding it at 45 deg and drawing it trailing back across the surface with the bevel away from him it cut beautiful shallow curls and left a smooth finish. So, the point of this being, Stan says: "Scraper works with blade edge at 45 deg".. !

You can make a scraper work almost anyway. I am not above grabbing a chisel to fix a problem in a small area, just be gentle. A very square piece of stock, like the side of a chisel, can also cut in some areas.

what CRS showed in #975 is the standard way to sharpen a handheld scraper, and by bowing or tilting it, you can go from a light cut to hogging off material with the same tool, without changing the hook. By putting a huge hook on with your burnisher, it is a transformational experience how much it can remove, and still not tear out.

it’s fun to play when you are not under pressure to finish a project.

my biggest problem is turning a big enough hook when I am working on a project.

 

[CRSINMICH]

Farmer J: I don't think it's a debate about scraper angles as much as it is an exchange of research notes. Thanks for your additions too, by the way. Your friend sounds like a very practical person and a bit of a bodger in both senses.

Speaking of bodgers, I remembered hearing about a tool that I've never used called a chair devil. It's simply a thin piece of steel, like an old saw plate which is held in a simple holder at 90 degrees to the wood. It smooths out irregularities in chair spindles by scraping. That got me thinking about my recently acquired STANLEY No.66 beading tool. It too works by scraping various profiles into wood. (It's fun to use, too.) The various cutters used in it are all cut at 90 degrees.

EDIT: I just watched Paul Sellers' video on chair devils and he makes his with a hook on the cutting edge.

I'm not sure what point I'm trying to make with all of this except that scrapers are probably overlooked and under utilized.

 

[Farmer J.]

Farmer J: I don't think it's a debate about scraper angles as much as it is an exchange of research notes. Thanks for your additions too, by the way. Your friend sounds like a very practical person and a bit of a bodger in both senses.

Speaking of bodgers, I remembered hearing about a tool that I've never used called a chair devil. It's simply a thin piece of steel, like an old saw plate which is held in a simple holder at 90 degrees to the wood. It smooths out irregularities in chair spindles by scraping. That got me thinking about my recently acquired STANLEY No.66 beading tool. It too works by scraping various profiles into wood. (It's fun to use, too.) The various cutters used in it are all cut at 90 degrees.

EDIT: I just watched Paul Sellers' video on chair devils and he makes his with a hook on the cutting edge.

I'm not sure what point I'm trying to make with all of this except that scrapers are probably overlooked and under utilized.

Yes, 'exchange of research notes', I like that term much better.
Thanks for your kind comments on my modest contribution, and I am beginning to think that scrapers are probably overlooked.
There used to be the proper original Bodgers working around here in the Chiltern Beech woods, but now at least there is a good preserved furniture factory in the museum.

High Wycombe Furniture Factory -

The reconstructed High Wycombe Furniture Factory at Chiltern Open Air Museum shows tools and crafts used in the famous Chilterns furniture making industry.

coam.org.uk

 

[Farmer J.]

You can make a scraper work almost anyway. I am not above grabbing a chisel to fix a problem in a small area, just be gentle. A very square piece of stock, like the side of a chisel, can also cut in some areas.

what CRS showed in #975 is the standard way to sharpen a handheld scraper, and by bowing or tilting it, you can go from a light cut to hogging off material with the same tool, without changing the hook. By putting a huge hook on with your burnisher, it is a transformational experience how much it can remove, and still not tear out.

it’s fun to play when you are not under pressure to finish a project.

my biggest problem is turning a big enough hook when I am working on a project.

Thanks. I'm gonna try some of this!

 

[snorvet]

a few

 

[CRSINMICH]

tx: More serendipity: While I was looking for logo information I found this information about auger bits.

snorvet: That wooden jointer looks like it's in fair condition. Check the sole for cracks. I thought that you had a STANLEY 112 in your collection but when I looked closer I saw that it was a UNION with the blade missing. If the original was 3" wide then a STANLEY replacement would work. You'll have to figure out how you want to sharpen it.

 

[txlonghorn1989]

Thanks CRS! Both good to know.

 

[bmwrd0]

Dug this old girl out of the local Restore this afternoon.


a very nice working grade Stanley no. 5 sweetheart. One odd thing, the tote is made of brass.

Has anyone seen this before?

 

[Old Radar]

At least it will be hard to chip or split!

 

[crguy]

Dug this old girl out of the local Restore this afternoon.


a very nice working grade Stanley no. 5 sweetheart. One odd thing, the tote is made of brass.

Has anyone seen this before?

That handle was owner made by a patternmaker or someone with access to a foundry. Stanley did make some aluminum ones, largely used in trade schools where the planes were more likely to be dropped or abused.

 

[pfaustus]

Dug this old girl out of the local Restore this afternoon.


a very nice working grade Stanley no. 5 sweetheart. One odd thing, the tote is made of brass.

Has anyone seen this before?

I had a 5 with a cast aluminum handle. Supposedly, they were sold as replacements to school woodshops. Sold it, because is was damn cold to hold. My guess is some patternmaker made yours with the intention of never having to fix it again.

 

[TheNFCNorthRemembers]

Came across my first infill plane today. Been collection for the last 3 years or so in Upstate NY.

 

[txlonghorn1989]

That's gorgeous! Who is the maker?

 

[TheNFCNorthRemembers]

Alex Mathieson & Son

 

[Old Radar]

That looks like a carpenter's treasure chest! Did you score the whole thing?

 

[txlonghorn1989]

Alex Mathieson & Son

Any history on the maker and the plane? What is it's age? Are you putting it to work?

 

[saukit]

That thing is gorgeous! Am I reading that right, you found that today and restored it that fast? What's your secret???

 

[RTM]

Any history on the maker and the plane? What is it's age? Are you putting it to work?

Looks like some good info here. I knew of another page, but can’t find it now.

Mackintosh Architecture: Biography

www.mackintosh-architecture.gla.ac.uk

Alexander Mathieson & Sons - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

 

[txlonghorn1989]

Fascinating reading RTM. Thanks! The Mathieson family made some fine tools which was likely exemplified by their success.