Show us your handplanes

[CRSINMICH]

RTM: Thanks! I never thought to check G-P for shaves. The thumb screw had been nickel plated like the catalog said and the body was japanned.

 

[CRSINMICH]

The sign said, "All planes $20" so I bought some​

Stanley #606
G.Baldauf scrub plane (German)
Stanley #40
Stanley#3
Stanley #12
Stanley #90
Stanley #35
Stanley #78 complete and in original box

Sometimes you get lucky

 

[RTM]

Nice haul, assuming you meant $20 each, on average you did VERY well. If it was $20 for everything, that would have been a steal.

 

[crguy]

The sign said, "All planes $20" so I bought some​

Stanley #606
G.Baldauf scrub plane (German)
Stanley #40
Stanley#3
Stanley #12
Stanley #90
Stanley #35
Stanley #78 complete and in original box

Sometimes you get lucky

Excellent overall. There are two I would have left there.

 

[hsvtoolfool]

That was a steal at $20 each. The #3 looks modern with painted tote/knob, but $20 is still fair market. But most of those are hard to find. You got at least $700 worth of planes for $120, assuming they are "workers" with no missing/broken parts...

#606: $200+
#40: $150+
#12: $150+
#78: $100+
#35: $50+
#90: $50+

 

[paulsomlo]

paulsomlo: I found this in a 1901 catalogue from Montreal while I was looking for information about the spokeshave above. You can make a side by side comparison and it's worth noting that the #20 was priced 50% higher than the #113.

For $6, I'll take two of them - one as a spare.

 

[CRSINMICH]

cr: There are four I should have left since they are duplicates for me but, really, how could I at that price? Just out of curiosity, which two would you have left?
hsv: There are no missing parts and all seem like they will work. I think the #3 is a Type 18 - immediately post war era. There was another #78 that was mostly complete but no box. Maybe I should have gotten it and parted it out. The German scrub plane has an ebony sole that looks like it might have been added but it might be original. Baldauf was said to be the first German wood tool maker or werkzeugmacher.

Late edit: I just found an old Baldauf catalog and they did manufacture planes with lignum vitae soles.

 

[RTM]

I would have left the German scrub, as they don't seem to move here, and I have one. The 78 just to flip, as I have a couple, and don't enjoy using them. The 90 is not a good worker in my world. I use woodies to a much higher degree of satisfaction. For those two.

But yeah, flipping the 78 could pay for the rest.

I would definitely grab the 40 and 12, as people are desperate for them, the 606 and 35 as 2nd users, setup slightly different from their twin.

 

[crguy]

cr: There are four I should have left since they are duplicates for me but, really, how could I at that price? Just out of curiosity, which two would you have left?
hsv: There are no missing parts and all seem like they will work. I think the #3 is a Type 18 - immediately post war era. There was another #78 that was mostly complete but no box. Maybe I should have gotten it and parted it out. The German scrub plane has an ebony sole that looks like it might have been added but it might be original. Baldauf was said to be the first German wood tool maker or werkzeugmacher.

I would have left the wood body German scrub and the 35 transitional.

 

[Jim C.]

paulsomlo: I found this in a 1901 catalogue from Montreal while I was looking for information about the spokeshave above. You can make a side by side comparison and it's worth noting that the #20 was priced 50% higher than the #113.

The Stanley #20 was a better plane in terms of quality/durability than the #113. Hence the 50% higher price. The Record #020 was also a very nice plane that was more heavy duty than the Stanley #113. While the #113 certainly sports some nice “contraptionisms” with the gears, etc., if you’re planning to use a compass plane, I’d go with the Stanley #20 or Record #020.

Jim C.

 

[paulsomlo]

The Stanley #20 was a better plane in terms of quality/durability than the #113. Hence the 50% higher price. The Record #020 was also a very nice plane that was more heavy duty than the Stanley #113. While the #113 certainly sports some nice “contraptionisms” with the gears, etc., if you’re planning to use a compass plane, I’d go with the Stanley #20 or Record #020.

Jim C.

Now to find one at a reasonable price - I bid one on ebay this morning, but it went for $50 over my bid. There were a handful of bidders and something like 25 watchers.

 

[NYBODYMAN]

I saw this in a drawer at an estate sale on Sunday and grabbed it. I don't know anything about planes but knew it was old since it is wooden. Anyone one know anything about this? I can't seem to find any markings.

 

[CRSINMICH]

NYBODYMAN: It's considered a transitional plane - halfway between a wooden plane and a metal plane. They get absolutely NO respect even though they can be made into good users. Look on the heel and especially the toe of the plane and you may find some information stamped into it. Also, the very top of the cutting iron will probably have a name stamped on it under all the rust.

 

[paulsomlo]

I finally won the bid on a Kunz #20 off ebay. I've got it cleaned up, but it's got some issues. When I adjust the blade laterally, the frog shifts as well. I've got the frog adjusted "upwards", away from the sole, because when it's dropped down all the way, I can't retract the blade enough. Also, the male dovetail and frog are not aligned properly, so the iron is not fully supported. It does appear that the frog has been machined on both sides, but without the prominent bosses on the backside, that I've seen in pictures of the Stanley version. Also, the sole protrudes slightly beyond the male dovetail. It appears I've got some work to do with a file - anyone have any advice?

 

[crguy]

I finally won the bid on a Kunz #20 off ebay. I've got it cleaned up, but it's got some issues. When I adjust the blade laterally, the frog shifts as well. I've got the frog adjusted "upwards", away from the sole, because when it's dropped down all the way, I can't retract the blade enough. Also, the male dovetail and frog are not aligned properly, so the iron is not fully supported. It does appear that the frog has been machined on both sides, but without the prominent bosses on the backside, that I've seen in pictures of the Stanley version. Also, the sole protrudes slightly beyond the male dovetail. It appears I've got some work to do with a file - anyone have any advice?

Kunz planes get little respect, and rightly so because of their low quality. If you want a plane to use, I'd be looking for a Stanley 20.

 

[paulsomlo]

Kunz planes get little respect, and rightly so because of their low quality. If you want a plane to use, I'd be looking for a Stanley 20.

I was looking for a Stanley, but kept getting outbid and I've got chair backs to finish. I've got $100+ into this thing, so I'm gonna try to make into something useful, maybe at some point I'll happen upon a Stanley at a flea market or garage sale. The plane did fairly well on the deepest part of the inside curves of the chair backs, but lots of chatter elsewhere. I think it's just an improbable design and by its nature, prone to chatter.

Truthfully, I avoid antique tools, because I got burned early on, thinking they had some special magic to them. If Lie-Nielsen or Lee Valley were making a compass plane, I would have just rather bought a new one.

For now, I've inserted some wood shims on either side of the frog, so it doesn't shift on me anymore. I need to tackle the misalignment between frog and mouth, either shimming the back of the frog, or filing the mouth.

 

[CRSINMICH]

paul: crguy was right, Kunz don't get respect. I don't know if that's true for every Kunz tool. Before your second post I was going to suggest that you try to make it work. You'll probably learn something about planes circular or not. I would only add that you should get the blade as sharp as you can, pay attention to grain direction, and try to take a skew cut when possible. Good luck.

 

[Maui]

I recently purchased between 80 and 90 hand planes from a local estate. He had somewhere between 500 and 1000 planes there, and I was fortunate enough to be the very first person to look through them. He said that somebody who came in after I was done purchased everything that was left. I honestly don’t know much about them, but selected the ones I felt were in good condition and/or were valuable. There were several there brand new in the box. You can see the majority of them in the photos in this discussion:

Vintage Wheeler Madden & Clemson Back Saw and Hand Planes

I recently purchased a very large number of vintage wood planes (mostly Stanley) and some other wood working tools from an estate. One of these tools is a very old miter saw. I tried performing an internet search and got a few hits on similar saws, but finding information on this specific model...

www.garagejournal.com

Be sure to scroll down to post #16. There were also several other items I purchased from this estate, and some of them are also shown in the pics. If anyone would like to see close-ups of any of these items I would be happy to provide them.

Maui

 

[Jim C.]

I was looking for a Stanley, but kept getting outbid and I've got chair backs to finish. I've got $100+ into this thing, so I'm gonna try to make into something useful, maybe at some point I'll happen upon a Stanley at a flea market or garage sale. The plane did fairly well on the deepest part of the inside curves of the chair backs, but lots of chatter elsewhere. I think it's just an improbable design and by its nature, prone to chatter.

Sorry to hear that you had trouble, first trying to purchase some a compass plane, and second trying to use it. A compass plane is designed to cut on a consistent curve. If the arc of the workpiece changes even slightly from the arc set on the plane, you’re going to get chatter.

Truthfully, I avoid antique tools, because I got burned early on, thinking they had some special magic to them. If Lie-Nielsen or Lee Valley were making a compass plane, I would have just rather bought a new one.

I‘d give some antique tools another try, particularly hand planes. When they’re set up and tuned in correctly with a super sharp iron, they are magical. There’s definitely a learning curve that goes into using them and purchasing them. I made some mistakes along the way. If you’re into old planes, you gotta start somewhere and that usually includes some mistakes. I will say that if Lie Nielsen or Lee Valley made a compass plane, you’d have paid more than $100 for it.

For now, I've inserted some wood shims on either side of the frog, so it doesn't shift on me anymore. I need to tackle the misalignment between frog and mouth, either shimming the back of the frog, or filing the mouth.

Maybe consider cutting your losses on this. It sounds like this plane with its shims and misaligned parts, etc., is just going to be a source of real frustration.

Jim C.

 

[paulsomlo]

I recently purchased between 80 and 90 hand planes from a local estate. He had somewhere between 500 and 1000 planes there, and I was fortunate enough to be the very first person to look through them. He said that somebody who came in after I was done purchased everything that was left. I honestly don’t know much about them, but selected the ones I felt were in good condition and/or were valuable. There were several there brand new in the box. You can see the majority of them in the photos in this discussion:

Vintage Wheeler Madden & Clemson Back Saw and Hand Planes

I recently purchased a very large number of vintage wood planes (mostly Stanley) and some other wood working tools from an estate. One of these tools is a very old miter saw. I tried performing an internet search and got a few hits on similar saws, but finding information on this specific model...

www.garagejournal.com

Be sure to scroll down to post #16. There were also several other items I purchased from this estate, and some of them are also shown in the pics. If anyone would like to see close-ups of any of these items I would be happy to provide them.

Maui

Wish I'd seen that you had a #20 Stanley in there.

 

[paulsomlo]

Sorry to hear that you had trouble, first trying to purchase some a compass plane, and second trying to use it. A compass plane is designed to cut on a consistent curve. If the arc of the workpiece changes even slightly from the arc set on the plane, you’re going to get chatter.

I‘d give some antique tools another try, particularly hand planes. When they’re set up and tuned in correctly with a super sharp iron, they are magical. There’s definitely a learning curve that goes into using them and purchasing them. I made some mistakes along the way. If you’re into old planes, you gotta start somewhere and that usually includes some mistakes. I will say that if Lie Nielsen or Lee Valley made a compass plane, you’d have paid more than $100 for it.

Maybe consider cutting your losses on this. It sounds like this plane with its shims and misaligned parts, etc., is just going to be a source of real frustration.

Jim C.

Planing the dip in the chair back, where the sole was well supported worked OK, but outside of that, it gave me fits.

I've got a Bailey 5 1/2, pretty beat up, chunks missing from the handles, etc.. But with a Lie-Nielsen blade and chipbreaker, it's pretty respectable. Truthfully, I'm really not into old planes or tools - I like stuff that works well. I have both LN and LV planes, and they're both a delight to use.

I've got my two curved chair backs completed now, so I've got time to play with the plane and see if I can't improve it. It was listed twice on ebay, 2nd time around I was the only bidder, so I think I'd take a loss on it if I walk away from it. I don't know that I have anything to lose at this point in tinkering with it. I'm surprised that nobody has come up with a better design for a circular plane, there's got to be a way.

 

[Jim C.]

Paulsomlo,

I can’t argue with you when it comes to Lie-Nielsen planes. They’re absolutely a pleasure to use. I don’t have any Lee Valley examples but I read nothing but good things about them. I still think that vintage hand tools do work well. It’s just a matter of getting them back into working order sometimes. Like I said earlier, once you get an old plane cleaned up and dialed in, it will provide results that you might expect from a LN or LV model. Usually the older planes are less expensive too.

Stanley #6, type 11, manufactured over 100 years ago
Stanley #4 1/2C, type 14, manufactured about 90 years ago
Stanley #608, type 4, manufactured 110 years ago
Millers Falls 14” premium bench plane, type 3, manufactured 70 years ago
Sargent #708 Autoset, manufactured at least 80 years ago

Old planes can still produce some fantastic results. Don’t give up on them. I’d hate to see you miss out something that really can be “magic.”

Jim C.

 

[Maui]

Wish I'd seen that you had a #20 Stanley in there.

There’s also a Stanley #113, a #45 with the box of cutters, and two #2s.

 

[RTM]

. Also, the sole protrudes slightly beyond the male dovetail. It appears I've got some work to do with a file - anyone have any advice?

I'll fish my 20 out later this weekend, see what help I can decipher.

 

[Maui]

I just picked up this plane earlier today. It is an O. R. Chaplin’s Patent No. 3 plane, and has a cast iron handle and cast iron knob. I’ve never even seen one of these before. I believe this is one of the first ones they produced because there are no patent dates on it anywhere that I can find. The only ID markings are around the base of the knob where it reads “O. R. Chaplin’s Pat”. It measures approximately 8 1/4” in overall length.

Maui

 

[crguy]

I just picked up this plane earlier today. It is an O. R. Chaplin’s Patent No. 3 plane, and has a cast iron handle and cast iron knob. I’ve never even seen one of these before. I believe this is one of the first ones they produced because there are no patent dates on it anywhere that I can find. The only ID markings are around the base of the knob where it reads “O. R. Chaplin’s Pat”. It measures approximately 8 1/4” in overall length.

Maui

Now you've seen 3:

 

[Maui]

Now you've seen 3:

Nice! They look to be in very good condition. Are they both the same model number as the one I posted or are they different?

 

[lkjk]

Anyone have a rec for a NEW plane that you don't have to do any work to? I am in need and don't want to go hunting and have enough to do without spending hours trying to get it flat.

Use would be after glue-ups, so mostly flattening tabletops. I know there are a million different types of planes.

 

[RTM]

Lie Nielsen or Lee Valley both sell great tools. LN is very traditional, and expensive. LV s a bit of newer technology in some planes, and a bit more reasonable. Both will kick the doors off anything you can get in the big box stores.

I have a handful of each, but none in the traditional 3,4,5,6,7,8 sizes. I have LV bevel up planes, and some joinery stuff. My LN are all specialized ones where the vintage versions were much too dear and rare to use.

for table tops, I’d look at a 5 or bigger.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/bench

Bench Planes Lie-Nielsen Toolworks

Form Follows Function. The mid-sized planes are best for roughing work. These include the No. 5, 5½, 6, 10¼, and 62. The longest planes are designed for flattening. These include the No. 7 and 8. The shortest, widest planes are ideal for finishing. These include the No. 3, 4, 4½, and 164.These...

www.lie-nielsen.com

 

[Cleave]

MATHIESON & SON
or something​

I had to reduce the width of a 1/2" thick and 6" wide board by about three quarters of an inch and I chose to plane it down rather than sawing. It was a lot of wood to remove and on a whim I grabbed a razee style wooden try-plane. It hogged off the wood easily because it was not taking wispy shavings. Somehow, the edge stayed square to the face which is hard for me to do. This may be a Frankenplane. There is no manufacturers' name stamped into the wood body but the heavy cap iron is stamped AlexR MATHIESON & SON Glascow. The cutting iron has a stamp that is upside down from the cap iron stamp. The name on the cutting iron stamp is unreadable. It looks like it was overstruck with a different name. I think the original stamp ended ...ORBY. That could be SORBY. Does anyone recognize the Maltese Cross logo?

I did a similar project once, turning a bigger board into a smaller board with a plane to fit where it needed too. It worked, and is a great exercise (pun intended) as it teaches how heavy a shaving you can take. But next, try the hatchet, drawknife, or adze to rough it in, or you can split it with hatchet, wedge, or froe depending on the situation, then plane it to final.

 

[Cleave]

I did a similar project once, turning a bigger board into a smaller board with a plane to fit where it needed too. It worked, and is a great exercise (pun intended) as it teaches how heavy a shaving you can take. But next, try the hatchet, drawknife, or adze to rough it in, or you can split it with hatchet, wedge, or froe depending on the situation, then plane it to final.

Very nice woodie by the way, I know nothing helpful about it.

 

[CRSINMICH]

Cleave: Thanks. I decided to use the Mathieson because, well... just because. I should have ripped the board first then planed but I decided to plane it just for the practice. As I mentioned in the original post, I have trouble planing square to the face. I didn't have a bit of trouble using this plane. and it was fun to just go at it without being concerned with producing perfect wispy shavings.

 

[AntiqueBen]

I found this Stanley No. 5 1/2. I believe it is a type 7 due to many things but especially because of the "S" stamped on the bottom of the frog & under the handle (pre Bailey) plus the three patent #'s on lever. The frog is also stamped "5 1/2" which I haven't seen before. All I did is lightly clean it up. I wanted to leave it as original as possible. I see a lot of no. 5's but not many 5 1/2's. Or at least not many 5 1/2 type 7's. Are 5 1/2's common??

 

[RTM]

5-1/2 are not nearly as common as #5, I’d guess less than 1/10, maybe even 1/25 based on finds in the wild in my corner of the tool world. I only have one, a Record dark blue, and I love it. I keep it for the last, after the other #5s have done their work, a fine set mouth and sharp blade is a treat.

 

[AntiqueBen]

I also noticed that specs say the No. 5 1/2 is 2 3/8" wide but mine measures just shy of 2 3/4". Not sure why??

 

[RTM]

Blade width vs body width. Spec is blade

 

[Jim C.]

I also noticed that specs say the No. 5 1/2 is 2 3/8" wide but mine measures just shy of 2 3/4". Not sure why??

I wrote something about the Stanley #5 1/2 and #605 1/2 blade widths changing at some point. Check out this link.

Hand Planes - Page 47

Hand Planes - Page 47

papawswrench.com

Jim C.

 

[AntiqueBen]

I was measuring the bottom. Yes...my irons are 2 1/4". I was wandering, are the type 7's the only ones stamped with the "S" for the Sessions foundry? I know the type 6 wasn't & had the little knib on the frog & the type 8 had the "B" stamp with Bailey on the body. I was also wandering when Stanley first came out with the No. 5 1/2?

 

[lkjk]

Lie Nielsen or Lee Valley both sell great tools. LN is very traditional, and expensive. LV s a bit of newer technology in some planes, and a bit more reasonable. Both will kick the doors off anything you can get in the big box stores.

I have a handful of each, but none in the traditional 3,4,5,6,7,8 sizes. I have LV bevel up planes, and some joinery stuff. My LN are all specialized ones where the vintage versions were much too dear and rare to use.

for table tops, I’d look at a 5 or bigger.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/bench

Bench Planes Lie-Nielsen Toolworks

Form Follows Function. The mid-sized planes are best for roughing work. These include the No. 5, 5½, 6, 10¼, and 62. The longest planes are designed for flattening. These include the No. 7 and 8. The shortest, widest planes are ideal for finishing. These include the No. 3, 4, 4½, and 164.These...

www.lie-nielsen.com

Thanks for the rec, got a veritas low angle jack plane with a few pvm-11 blades. Used it today, worked great out of the box

 

[Jim C.]

I was measuring the bottom. Yes...my irons are 2 1/4". I was wandering, are the type 7's the only ones stamped with the "S" for the Sessions foundry? I know the type 6 wasn't & had the little knib on the frog & the type 8 had the "B" stamp with Bailey on the body. I was also wandering when Stanley first came out with the No. 5 1/2?

The Stanley #5 1/2 and #5 1/2C were available between 1898 and 1958. The Stanley #5 1/2H was available between 1902 and 1924. The Stanley #605 1/2 and #605 1/2C were produced between 1898 and 1935.

Jim C.