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Show us your stick welds

WhoWhatNow

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OK, I know you are supposed to start threads like this with a good example but this is all I've got. I'm taking a class at the local CC. Using a Miller XMT with 6010 rod. I am starting to get the hang of it, but still a long way off from looking good or being strong. So let's see 'em...



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tatra

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pirate contest city
try closing your eyes and listening for the bacon sizzle.........amazing how much that one litle trick helps, ay least it did for me..........and when the frustration sets in, take a break and get some water..........never could get the hang of overhead proficiently and now that i am disqualified from welding at work [ long story of politics] , i haven't picked up a stick in years and honestly don't miss it...........now what i do in the privacy of my own personal world............
 

bimmer1980

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Here are some brackets that I built for holding a ridge beam on my new garage. The bracket is 40" long, 12" tall and built with 1/4" steel.

I tacked everything together with my little century flux core welder. Then I used the Lincoln Tombstone to burn in some 7018.

I burned a lot of rods back in high school to learn the technique. I've learned over the years that part of the technique to producing a great weld on a project is to plan for it. A well designed joint for welding and the joint preparation make it so much easier to produce a nice bead.

A 4 1/2" angle grander with a twisted/knotted wire cup wheel does wonders for prep'ing the metal for welding. Yes, stick welding will burn thru a lot of **** (rust and paint) but a nice shiny surface makes for amazing welds.

Another thing--heat management!!!!!! This applies to both welding and cooking--you have to regulate the temperature and heat to product good or great results. If you don't, both will turn to ****.....

Best of luck--practice makes perfect (or at least acceptable...)
 

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WhoWhatNow

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Jim, Bimmer - Those are some big projects. Very nice.

I picked up a unused Linclon AC-225 from CL about a month ago. I haven't had a chance to run a circut for it yet, but hopefully in a few weeks. The first project will be a welding bench. I was having a hell of a time getting a good position in the weld shop. The benches are only about 30-32" tall. I'm only 5'10", but I was hunched over and couldn't get a good angle. Tons of undercut. Clamping the pieces up high made my welds look a 1000X better.
 

sberry

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These are not meant to be poster work but to demonstrate technique. You can see in the second pic someones improvement with the second try. The 3rd pic was showing how the operator can stack the fill right in the gap.
 

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sberry

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Here are 2 more, one 11 and the other 18. overhead, high magnification shows every flaw but one can get the idea for making it stay where the operator wants. The 3rd pic here was to demonstrate that the plate could be nearly melted thru while the welder kept control and stacked all the melted metal in the joint. Pic 4, old rod, rusty old plate on a truck frame or something, 1 big ole fat stringer, all of these welded in the position shown. Pic 5. 6010 on a crack repair to a truck bed.
 

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StumpXJ

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This first one is on 6" diameter pipe, 6010 root, 7018 HP and Cap, in the 5G position (horizonal), with a weave method.

IMG_20111019_143229.jpg


IMG_20111019_143219.jpg


This is a 4" diameter pipe, 6010 root, 7018 HP and Cap. Using the stringer method in the 6G (45 degree) position.

IMG_20111116_161957.jpg
 

gmwelder86

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This first one is on 6" diameter pipe, 6010 root, 7018 HP and Cap, in the 5G position (horizonal), with a weave method.

IMG_20111019_143229.jpg


IMG_20111019_143219.jpg


This is a 4" diameter pipe, 6010 root, 7018 HP and Cap. Using the stringer method in the 6G (45 degree) position.

IMG_20111116_161957.jpg

Not bad, but with pipe the money shot is on the inside, the rest of the pipe is just for show.
 

KF5LCH

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Man I could stick weld back in the day. I could get it so smooth the slag from a 7018 would curl up like Howard Hughes' fingernails. That was 11 years ago & I haven't touched a stick welder since.

I got my MIG & it's what I call "point & click" welding. MIG welding kinda takes the fun away from it.
 

StumpXJ

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Not bad, but with pipe the money shot is on the inside, the rest of the pipe is just for show.

Not entirely true, but I get your point. Kinda hard to shove a camera in there to get a good shot of the root though. Im a pipefitter/welder out of Local 72 here in Atlanta, and was just down at our weld school/test facility brushing up with the rod since I have been doing a lot of TIG lately and didnt want to get too slack with stick..lol.
 
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steel 35

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Thats what I go too if it really counts, but I don't go there often! A ongoing project I added a support or two today. This was done without my bifocals but using a maglens :drink:
 

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WhoWhatNow

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Here are 2 more, one 11 and the other 18. overhead, high magnification shows every flaw but one can get the idea for making it stay where the operator wants. The 3rd pic here was to demonstrate that the plate could be nearly melted thru while the welder kept control and stacked all the melted metal in the joint. Pic 4, old rod, rusty old plate on a truck frame or something, 1 big ole fat stringer, all of these welded in the position shown. Pic 5. 6010 on a crack repair to a truck bed.

sberry - sorry I missed your posts. Nice welds - are they yours?
 
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WhoWhatNow

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This first one is on 6" diameter pipe, 6010 root, 7018 HP and Cap, in the 5G position (horizonal), with a weave method.

IMG_20111019_143229.jpg


IMG_20111019_143219.jpg


This is a 4" diameter pipe, 6010 root, 7018 HP and Cap. Using the stringer method in the 6G (45 degree) position.

IMG_20111116_161957.jpg

These are really nice! I don't think I will ever be able to lay down beads that nice. :bowdown:
 

steel 35

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I do but its the cheap ******* and it may take some digging. I have no Idea how to use it but I have been thrashing some steel and aluminum, dig and you will find lots of info from the one who started it. :bowdown:

allmetalshaping.com
 

gmwelder86

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Not entirely true, but I get your point. Kinda hard to shove a camera in there to get a good shot of the root though. Im a pipefitter/welder out of Local 72 here in Atlanta, and was just down at our weld school/test facility brushing up with the rod since I have been doing a lot of TIG lately and didnt want to get too slack with stick..lol.

I hear yea, UA local 467, 4 year fitters apprentice. Working on getting my papers. To much of that clean work and you can forget what a real day in the ditch is.
 

gmwelder86

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These are from a couple years ago. Heres some of one of my roots and hot, for some reason I guess I never took a pic of the cap, since this I have gotten better on my tie ins. And I will throw in some of 7018 vert up from when I was trying to get certed on plate, joined the pipefitters local and stoped the plate practice. Looking back I should have got the papers for it.
 

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sberry

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I am with Stump, I like it cranked to get fluid. The butterfly look is good for learning technique. I was headed to a little job last summer, thought I might have to test, I took 50 or so rods, run a dozen each day starting on Sun, took till Thurs to get to where I was driving it vs it managing me, ha. I hit a ceiling in that time frame.
 

diesel research

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I want to see more 6010/6011 (various position) passes before the cover with 70_ _

The various 70xx makes everybody look like a rock star, but interested in improving the root pass with the "hard stuff".

Any one have some destructive testing pics (of their OWN)?

Mine has almost always left much to be desired. Whether it was travel speed, motion, or gap, when using recommended heat. By altering heat below "spec" things seemed to look pretty but almost always failed destructive testing. (vice, hydraulic press with gauge, or chop saw-polished side view)
 

StumpXJ

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What type of coupon/test are you referring too? Plate? Pipe? About the only thing we use destructive testing for anymore is MIG or Medical Gas certification. We use a combination of visual, then X-Ray for everything else.

I am going to burn some more rod on Wednesday, and will try to get some good pics of root passes. However, the only thing that matters on a root is the penetration side - inside of the pipe in my situation - so im not sure how good the pics will turn out. The 'outside' usually gets cleaned up with a grinder before the hot passes are made to get it uniform.
 

diesel research

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Will you be willing to show us what some common "bad" passes look like? I mean common errors and how it shows up in the bead? (it might be hard to critique ones own weld on the net, I'm not sure?)

I have practically no experience on pipe, and any plate experience I have was in a 1yr course quite some years ago. As a matter of fact, I some how snaked out of the stick portion of class and went on to do other things. Had a lot of trouble with my 6010, and spent most of my time fooling myself with stuff like 7024. Later rediscovered stick and did some minor "maintenance welding", but usually the results were marginal, or as the other guys would say, "good enuf"

Common NDT procedures are great, but they could be somewhat difficult for us "dabblers" to perform in the garage. I do recall having to make 100 passes on a plate forming a 10x10 block of beads and then chopping it to learn about porosity and inclusions etc. That's a bit much, but many of us could chop one or 2 passes, and maybe even learn something if we had some battery acid. Simple bend tests always seemed quite revealing (and heart breaking)
 

StumpXJ

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There is usually a HUGE bin full of old coupons, I will grab a few that have some obvious 'issues' (defects and discontinuities) and snap a few pictures. There will also be some prime examples of what it should look like.

6010 is difficult to get a 'pretty' bead with, especially when welding out of position, and even more so on pipe (in my opinion).

I will report back Wednesday night with some more photos... :)
 

gmwelder86

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6010 is difficult to get a 'pretty' bead with, especially when welding out of position, and even more so on pipe (in my opinion).


This is very true, our welding intructors test everyone with running a basic 6010 bead before their start the welding class just to see how everyone does. With the 6010 as it being a fast freeze rod every little hickup is noticed and visable, 7018 you can smooth out with your motion but 6010 is you have any inconsistancy you will know it right away.
 

TAftw

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Nice welds guys, I'm just getting the hand of stick welding myself. When I go to the shop on thursday I'll snag a couple coupons and post em up.
 

mordantly

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7024 is the easiest rod in the world since its fast fill.. no overhead.

6013 *****.. i ONLY SMAW in DC-EP

6010 is finicky

6011 in DC-EP 150A 1/8 rod, you should be able to write a story all day on steel and have the slag lift off as it cools (blow on it on it's off!)

7018 i tried this rod on the first day in welding in HS after writing my name on the bench with 6011 and got it by the end of the rod.. still have to drag start it this rod though.
 

boseefus402

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Dec 30, 2006
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I tend to use 6013 AC rod for most things. Is there a downside to this rod.

I have an AC only machine and my favorite is 7018 but it absorbs water so the rods always spatter if they are old so I cant keep them around for how little welding I do. 6013 is my next best.
 

StumpXJ

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If you are keeping Low Hydrogen rods (7018, etc), you will need a rod oven - anything else is halfassed.

Honestly.

There are plenty of old timers who will say to store them in rice, or kitty litter, or an old refrigerator with a XXXwatt light bulb etc. etc., those rods need to be stored dry, and hot.

Tweco makes a 10 pound rod oven for about $100.00 bucks.
 

gmwelder86

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Heres last weekends project. Working on getting my 6G certs. I know of 3 palces were it didnt come out as good as I could have done but it happend, 2 on are the root on restarts and the 3rd is when I put the cap on the pipe was to hot and I Should have waited for it to cool but didnt. So the cap came out ok instead of good. But its all practice at this point. Shouldnt be to much longer when school starts up before I test.

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DYNA BILL

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StumpXJ and cnc-me,
I have welded off and on, stick, MIG and TIG, both for a living and as a hobby for 41 years.
I have to say that those are some damn nice looking stick beads!:beer:
 

jinjaninja

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Nov 1, 2011
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IMAG0757.jpg


the old boy at work decided it was time i learnt to stick. The pink sock was a joke for the old fella, but he was pretty pleased with them, as they are the first time i had ever picked up a stick.

IMAG0758.jpg


IMAG0759.jpg


IMAG0760.jpg


im pretty sure he made it as easy as possible for me, big plate etc but was a fun learning tool :) Everyone seems to focus so heavily on tig these days, i think he misses the importance of stick lol
 

hunter1151

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Man I could stick weld back in the day. I could get it so smooth the slag from a 7018 would curl up like Howard Hughes' fingernails. That was 11 years ago & I haven't touched a stick welder since.

I got my MIG & it's what I call "point & click" welding. MIG welding kinda takes the fun away from it.

Yeah I really miss digging the slag out of a perfectly good weld..............not!!
 

Drisco Z71

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2011-12-27_14-05-16_742.jpg


that was the first stick bead I had laid in quite a while, I had forgotten how much I dislike stick welding.
 
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WhoWhatNow

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Thanks for posting your welds! These look really nice. Gives me something to shot for. Those pipe welds are awesome!

Class ended before the holidays and I got some time to try overhead and vertical up welds. THe overhead wasn't too bad. You just need to remember not to flinch when you get hit with the hot slag. I spent more time on the vertical up. That pretty tough. I could only do really short runs - about an inch or so before the weld turned into a glob of snot. Only got one shot of the vertical up:



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Now I need to get some power in my garage and start practicing at home. Hope to be able to do that by the end of the month.
 
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