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Engine

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 9, 2014
Messages
646
Location
Kentucky
I don't see many of these in the parks or schools anymore, so with a bit of scrap angle a 2x6, some paint and a couple of bolts and a couple hours work my grand kids can experience a bit of the "good old days"


I don't see any USB ports.

Where do you plug the screen into?

And... where are the seat belts? No net to catch them if they fall? Not even a single shred of "rubber mulch" on the ground either. What if they fall and bump their noggin. Lord have mercy. :lol::willy_nil
 

Broadie

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2010
Messages
47
Location
SE Alaska
What issues did you have with that spool gun?

So two issues:

1. I was using spools of Alcotec wire and when placing the spool into the spool gun it was such a tight fit in the spool that it had to be forced onto the "spindle." It's tension can be adjusted by tightening mashing a rubber spacer down with a thumbscrew, but it was so tight without tightening that the rubber spacer had to be forced into the spool. When I first started the wire was not feeding very well or at all because of the tight fit. I ended up sanding some rubber off and then lubing it with Vaseline. If I let the spool sit for a few days in the gun, it was so tight that I could hardly get it out to relube it.

Also because of this I would barely screw the thumbscrew in, just enough to keep the cover on, so on many occasions the screw would loosen, the cover fall out and then the spool would fall out (I know... considering how tight a fit it is - I guess as wire was fed out it would the spool would "unthread" itself) making a rat's nest of wire.

Maybe it was just the brand of wire, that all I ordered though and it's what the shops in town sell.

2. There must be a bad connection at the trigger or where the wires come into the gun. It will work fine 99% of the time but then - pull the trigger and nothing. There didn't seem to be any rhyme or reason or even a sweet spot to get the wire. Sometimes I would just have to walk away for the night and it would magically work the next day. Frustrating!

My plan is to buy a conversion box and a Miller 30A gun if I ever take on another boat project with this welder, but until then I'll make due.
 

bamf

Active member
Joined
Mar 5, 2015
Messages
35
Location
Wake Forest, NC
So two issues:

1. I was using spools of Alcotec wire and when placing the spool into the spool gun it was such a tight fit in the spool that it had to be forced onto the "spindle." It's tension can be adjusted by tightening mashing a rubber spacer down with a thumbscrew, but it was so tight without tightening that the rubber spacer had to be forced into the spool. When I first started the wire was not feeding very well or at all because of the tight fit. I ended up sanding some rubber off and then lubing it with Vaseline. If I let the spool sit for a few days in the gun, it was so tight that I could hardly get it out to relube it.

Also because of this I would barely screw the thumbscrew in, just enough to keep the cover on, so on many occasions the screw would loosen, the cover fall out and then the spool would fall out (I know... considering how tight a fit it is - I guess as wire was fed out it would the spool would "unthread" itself) making a rat's nest of wire.

Maybe it was just the brand of wire, that all I ordered though and it's what the shops in town sell.

2. There must be a bad connection at the trigger or where the wires come into the gun. It will work fine 99% of the time but then - pull the trigger and nothing. There didn't seem to be any rhyme or reason or even a sweet spot to get the wire. Sometimes I would just have to walk away for the night and it would magically work the next day. Frustrating!

My plan is to buy a conversion box and a Miller 30A gun if I ever take on another boat project with this welder, but until then I'll make due.

I have that spool gun and welder but have only put but about 2 lbs of aluminum through it. No problems so far, maybe I got the right brand spools...

I've wondered about converting to the 30A gun since the Hobart is technically a Miller. You say it needs a conversion box? Would it not just plug in the same spot? I just figured the Miller and Hobart would have the same style plugs, I have no idea, just thinking out loud. Do you know of any push-pull setup that will work with this welder?
 

paigej

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 5, 2012
Messages
253
Location
Arizona
just did the fix for the harbor freight brake. just gotta make longer handles and bend some stuff!
 

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paigej

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 5, 2012
Messages
253
Location
Arizona
before adding the channel, there was nothing supporting the rear of the clamp. So, if you tried to bend something thicker than recommended, the brake would bend instead. I didn't invent the fix, but it's very easy to do.
 

paigej

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Joined
Dec 5, 2012
Messages
253
Location
Arizona
Making it mobile
 

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Junebuggy

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Joined
Sep 21, 2014
Messages
246
Location
----
15532105652_e6d557b4ec_b.jpg
 

paigej

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Joined
Dec 5, 2012
Messages
253
Location
Arizona
Sure, still working on it! Had to strengthen the legs first.
 

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paigej

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 5, 2012
Messages
253
Location
Arizona
Did a little dumpster diving for material to make the carriage locks. Got what I needed and came up with an air hose reel. So just a small detour while I put it to use.
 

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Strouty

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Joined
Mar 21, 2010
Messages
38,210
Location
Southern Maine
Sure, still working on it! Had to strengthen the legs first.

I am still missing it, are the wheels going to be tied down? It looks like you were making it so they would flip up so it can't roll around when in use. Sorry, sometimes I am a little slow.

How does the air hose reel work with the cables, it won't try and twist the welder end all around?
 

paigej

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 5, 2012
Messages
253
Location
Arizona
To roll up the welding leads, the cable must be disconnected first from the welder. Really easy to do with the quick disconnects. I can't claim this invention, I saw it a few years ago on the internet. I just finally found a reel!
 

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paigej

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 5, 2012
Messages
253
Location
Arizona
I am still missing it, are the wheels going to be tied down? It looks like you were making it so they would flip up so it can't roll around when in use. Sorry, sometimes I am a little slow.



That's exactly what I'm doing. Lifting the wheels off the ground when in use. It's a pain to move around the way Harbor Freight made it:shocking:
I just finished one side.
 

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TheModelAGuy

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 24, 2014
Messages
108
Fender repair - 1950 Ford F1

Had a friend help me form the panels needed with a brake and shrinker/stretcher tool. I cut off 3" or so and welded in the new sections. Used a Miller 185 MIG with .023 wire. Used a hammer weld technique and finished with a little bit of filler. The new radius and bead for the wheel opening was formed by rolling the sheet metal around a 5/8" steel rod bent to match the curve.
 

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Strouty

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Joined
Mar 21, 2010
Messages
38,210
Location
Southern Maine
I am still missing it, are the wheels going to be tied down? It looks like you were making it so they would flip up so it can't roll around when in use. Sorry, sometimes I am a little slow.



That's exactly what I'm doing. Lifting the wheels off the ground when in use. It's a pain to move around the way Harbor Freight made it:shocking:
I just finished one side.

That is slick, I have seen lots of different ideas, I may have to store that one for later use.
 
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paigej

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 5, 2012
Messages
253
Location
Arizona
sprayed some rustoleum on everything. looks a little better:bounce:
 

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paigej

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 5, 2012
Messages
253
Location
Arizona
Great fabricator! :bowdown:
If you don't mind I'm going to have to borrow that design for a few of pieces of my machinery.

Thanks! Go ahead, half my ideas come from this board. I think I first saw something like this on a table saw from Sears
 

MN4x4

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 5, 2010
Messages
1,443
Location
Minnesnowta
The "over center" self locking mechanism is quite clever. It took me a while to figure out WTF he was making and then it hit me.

OK, I think I've got it now but I have a question:

Is the 'self-locking' part due simply to friction on the hinging joint, or did I miss something else?
 

bmxdad

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2014
Messages
2,539
Location
Puyallup, WA
The link will go past the center line and lock. To unlock, they need to lengthen and go past center to the other side. Generally there is a stop to prevent the link from rotating to far when in the lock position. Same principle on a tool box clasp.
 
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tndude

Active member
Joined
Dec 13, 2009
Messages
29
Can you tell more about the casters? I have never seen that design before.

I put them on the inside so they wouldn't stick out. I didn't want to hit my foot/ankle when working and walking around the table. The only down side to this design would be the space you lose on the bottom shelf. The caster needs plenty of space to turn 360. The table is big so I do have a lot of space on the shelves. It hasn't been a problem at this point.
 

richeyc2000

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Joined
Feb 22, 2015
Messages
984
Location
Europe
I put them on the inside so they wouldn't stick out. I didn't want to hit my foot/ankle when working and walking around the table. The only down side to this design would be the space you lose on the bottom shelf. The caster needs plenty of space to turn 360. The table is big so I do have a lot of space on the shelves. It hasn't been a problem at this point.


Really like that idea. Great design.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Yarz

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2013
Messages
121
Location
Tarentum PA
Brilliant!

I'm stealing that idea! I've got a similar light, with a broken plastic clamp, that I've been trying to figure out what to do with. Thanks!
 
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