Show us your welding projects

[nonhog]

Gerald - I think you are holding out and owe us a build thread!

.

Or keep em coming on this thread.

 

[Gerald O]

Gerald that was a mess, glad you put new panels in it looks good now.

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Thanks Jim. Unfortunately the front end was in a similar state, and is now under reconstruction.
Still cutting.

Front frame rail extensions are tweaked. It's going to end up completely disassembled and stripped to bare metal.

 

[Gerald O]

New driver side floor got welded in.

This is where I wish I had a MIG. Plug welding with a TIG isn't ideal. Top panel wants to heat up and expand away from the underlying panel making a gap if you're not quick enough.

 

[crawler07]

 

[crawler07]

 

[crawler07]

 

[BD1]

Thanks Jim. Unfortunately the front end was in a similar state, and is now under reconstruction.
Still cutting.

Front frame rail extensions are tweaked. It's going to end up completely disassembled and stripped to bare metal.

It appears those Jack stands maybe Harbor Freight ones. There is a recall on them. I returned 2 sets to store even though my numbers didn't match. Harbor Freight says if you aren't comfortable with them return.
I got INSTORE gift card which was current price. You can get cash but it's less money.

https://www.nhtsa.gov/press-releases/consumer-advisory-harbor-freight-jack-stands


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[harley jim]

That looks just like my Atlas

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[crawler07]

That looks just like my Atlas

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Sure does, biggest diff is yours has babbitt bearings and mine has the Timkens. Great old lathe once I replaced all the worn parts.

 

[slodat]

Arms for a new material storage rack. Switched hands with the torch and filler. It’s going better having the filler in my dominant hand.

 

[Gummi Bear]

That’s ridiculously cool!

What’s it a part of?

 

[Ilikeike]

New driver side floor got welded in.

This is where I wish I had a MIG. Plug welding with a TIG isn't ideal. Top panel wants to heat up and expand away from the underlying panel making a gap if you're not quick enough.

I’ve never TIG welded, but doing floor, trunk , tubs etc... I use small self tappers in a few spots to hold the panels tight together when I’m plug welding with the MIG, then just come back and plug those.
Maybe that wasn’t appropriate on your particular project.

 

[Gerald O]

I’ve never TIG welded, but doing floor, trunk , tubs etc... I use small self tappers in a few spots to hold the panels tight together when I’m plug welding with the MIG, then just come back and plug those.
Maybe that wasn’t appropriate on your particular project.

Actually I did that too on this floor. Every other hole in fact had a self tapper while welding the holes between. Kept the floor really flat overall. Goes fast with a screw gun.
Even still, with TIG, the challenge is focusing the heat through the center of the hole onto the back layer quickly before the top layer bulges upward. Often it does anyway and you have to stop and quickly tap it back down with a hammer. I think I made the mistake this time of making the holes too small, and once I got started welding I was committed.

 

[crawler07]

That’s ridiculously cool!

What’s it a part of?

Thanks for the complement, It's one side of a tracked RC Mower/Plow I have been working on for a while now. I will post a short video if I can figure out how to.

 

[Gerald O]

It appears those Jack stands maybe Harbor Freight ones. There is a recall on them. I returned 2 sets to store even though my numbers didn't match. Harbor Freight says if you aren't comfortable with them return.
I got INSTORE gift card which was current price. You can get cash but it's less money.

https://www.nhtsa.gov/press-releases/consumer-advisory-harbor-freight-jack-stands

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Thanks, I knew about the recall. These are about 15 years old and not listed in the recall. It had something to do with the ratchet teeth not having enough angle to hold securely. I examined them and they look better than the ones that were recalled, but I think I'm going to modify them to take a locking pin once I get the car off of them.

 

[sweetk30]

Another set of ICE SHOES for my old boss . The first set worked so good on the tow truck he wanted another set for another truck .

They slide on the rear wheel lift T-BAR and when you put the wheel lift down you bite in and stick much better in the **** road conditions out here in the country area we are in .

I used 4x4x1/4 angle iron to make the square box tube . This truck has a wierd size slider @ 3.5in outside . The angle got me 3.75x3.75 inside . So i ground off 1/16th inch per edge and got 3 5/8th inch . Little slop is fine . Burned them inside and out and then 1in tall x 1/2in thick bar stock for theeth . 1/2in top down for theeth depth @ 45* angle . Cut on porta-band swag offroad table kit . Bevel ground the flats for a good solid burn in with the lincoln power mig 216 .

Then after a cool down i put them in the skat blast box with course black beauty media and shot them in his fav color .

 

[lis2323]

Another set of ICE SHOES for my old boss . The first set worked so good on the tow truck he wanted another set for another truck .

They slide on the rear wheel lift T-BAR and when you put the wheel lift down you bite in and stick much better in the **** road conditions out here in the country area we are in .

I used 4x4x1/4 angle iron to make the square box tube . This truck has a wierd size slider @ 3.5in outside . The angle got me 3.75x3.75 inside . So i ground off 1/16th inch per edge and got 3 5/8th inch . Little slop is fine . Burned them inside and out and then 1in tall x 1/2in thick bar stock for theeth . 1/2in top down for theeth depth @ 45* angle . Cut on porta-band swag offroad table kit . Bevel ground the flats for a good solid burn in with the lincoln power mig 216 .

Then after a cool down i put them in the skat blast box with course black beauty media and shot them in his fav color .

Cool teeth! [emoji41]


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[TheLoamRanger]

Actually I did that too on this floor. Every other hole in fact had a self tapper while welding the holes between. Kept the floor really flat overall. Goes fast with a screw gun.
Even still, with TIG, the challenge is focusing the heat through the center of the hole onto the back layer quickly before the top layer bulges upward. Often it does anyway and you have to stop and quickly tap it back down with a hammer. I think I made the mistake this time of making the holes too small, and once I got started welding I was committed.

Thanks for posting those pics! I'm about to attempt some similar rust repairs. It is looking like 6 pieces I will need to splice in, less than 1 sq ft each, horizontal and vertical positions (basically 2 corner junctions of the body tub). Currently I only have a TIG and I am decent enough with it on nicely prepped steel. However, my main concern is cleanliness of the base metal causing issues with TIG. Did you do any additional weld prep beyond what was shown? Did you have any other issues or advice?
I was seriously considering buying a small MIG, but sacrificing the extra space and money isn't so desirable right now.

 

[FTG-05]

Another set of ICE SHOES for my old boss . The first set worked so good on the tow truck he wanted another set for another truck .

They slide on the rear wheel lift T-BAR and when you put the wheel lift down you bite in and stick much better in the **** road conditions out here in the country area we are in .

I used 4x4x1/4 angle iron to make the square box tube . This truck has a wierd size slider @ 3.5in outside . The angle got me 3.75x3.75 inside . So i ground off 1/16th inch per edge and got 3 5/8th inch . Little slop is fine . Burned them inside and out and then 1in tall x 1/2in thick bar stock for theeth . 1/2in top down for theeth depth @ 45* angle . Cut on porta-band swag offroad table kit . Bevel ground the flats for a good solid burn in with the lincoln power mig 216 .

Then after a cool down i put them in the skat blast box with course black beauty media and shot them in his fav color .

??? Pics in use? Thanks!

 

[sweetk30]

See what i can do buddy .

 

[sweetk30]

New project .

Push bumper for my truck with FREE parts or DIRT CHEEP parts .

clips in my fisher snow plow frame and hangs off the lift triangle. Making it double pivot point so it stays level as i go up ir down in height . Also adding 2 D-rings and a 2in trailer hitch .

Got a few holes to drill yet and some welding . But will be a nice truck tool .

 

[red61cj5]

This is literally the second piece of sheet metal I’ve ever tried to weld. Little rough, I know.

 

[aka Larry]

I built this dueling tree over the holiday break. Base is a combination of 1" square tubing and 1" angle. Upright is a 1-1/2" angle 60" tall. Paddles are 1/4" AR 500. It breaks down into 10 pieces for ease of transport to the range I use. I need more (better) pics, but here's one my wife took.

 

[Gerald O]

Thanks for posting those pics! I'm about to attempt some similar rust repairs. It is looking like 6 pieces I will need to splice in, less than 1 sq ft each, horizontal and vertical positions (basically 2 corner junctions of the body tub). Currently I only have a TIG and I am decent enough with it on nicely prepped steel. However, my main concern is cleanliness of the base metal causing issues with TIG. Did you do any additional weld prep beyond what was shown? Did you have any other issues or advice?
I was seriously considering buying a small MIG, but sacrificing the extra space and money isn't so desirable right now.

Preparation of the original body sheet metal, where it was to be welded, consisted of stripping to bare metal by means of paint removers, sanding, and wire wheels. Because of the rust, there were some minor specs of contamination here and there that remained in some tiny pits in the metal. I used a rust converter to stop any further rust, but still those small specs can be toublesome when TIG welding. You get an occasional flare up or blow out if you hit a rust spec. Then you may end up with a hole to close up, or get the tungsten contaminated from the spatter and have to stop and redo the tungsten. It's a minor hassle, but doable.

The best way to prepare the metal for TIG welding when there is rust is to abrasive-blast to clean base metal. This will get all the rust out of the pits below the surface that sanding and wire wheel can't reach.

You'll need to use a fingertip switch on your TIG torch rather than the footpedal, and set it to 2t (on while pressed, off when released). Most of this sheetmetal welding is quick small tack welds, and you''l find yourself in awkward positions where a pedal is not practical.

Start your welds by placing the tip of the filler rod on the spot to weld and start your arc on that. The rod will draw the arc more easily and precisely. Melt off a tiny bead of filler and fuse that into the base metal for your tack weld then let it cool completely before doing the next tack weld. The sheet metal heats up rapidly and expands so you have to let it cool to avoid warpage. It's going to shrink at the weld so when doing **** welds in the middle of a panel it will need to be planished to unshrink the weld.

 

[Cue]

I built this dueling tree over the holiday break. Base is a combination of 1" square tubing and 1" angle. Upright is a 1-1/2" angle 60" tall. Paddles are 1/4" AR 500. It breaks down into 10 pieces for ease of transport to the range I use. I need more (better) pics, but here's one my wife took.

Nice! I built one as well about a year ago, lots of fun

 

[Kenstone1]

Nice! I built one as well about a year ago, lots of fun

OK, here's mine, paddles and tubes bought off ebay.

 

[TheLoamRanger]

Preparation of the original body sheet metal, where it was to be welded, consisted of stripping to bare metal by means of paint removers, sanding, and wire wheels. Because of the rust, there were some minor specs of contamination here and there that remained in some tiny pits in the metal. I used a rust converter to stop any further rust, but still those small specs can be toublesome when TIG welding. You get an occasional flare up or blow out if you hit a rust spec. Then you may end up with a hole to close up, or get the tungsten contaminated from the spatter and have to stop and redo the tungsten. It's a minor hassle, but doable.

The best way to prepare the metal for TIG welding when there is rust is to abrasive-blast to clean base metal. This will get all the rust out of the pits below the surface that sanding and wire wheel can't reach.

You'll need to use a fingertip switch on your TIG torch rather than the footpedal, and set it to 2t (on while pressed, off when released). Most of this sheetmetal welding is quick small tack welds, and you''l find yourself in awkward positions where a pedal is not practical.

Start your welds by placing the tip of the filler rod on the spot to weld and start your arc on that. The rod will draw the arc more easily and precisely. Melt off a tiny bead of filler and fuse that into the base metal for your tack weld then let it cool completely before doing the next tack weld. The sheet metal heats up rapidly and expands so you have to let it cool to avoid warpage. It's going to shrink at the weld so when doing **** welds in the middle of a panel it will need to be planished to unshrink the weld.

Gerald, this is great. Thank you!
I tend to forget abrasive blasting is an option. I really like that idea, and I think I have a good friend with one I could use. That will probably address my main concern about getting clean metal without grinding it too thin.

I can cut up some sheet this weekend to test out the tacking techniques you described and see how the metal responds. I have a torch control, but I don't think I've actually used it yet. Time for some practice.

-Derek

 

[LVIIIR]

I built this dueling tree over the holiday break. Base is a combination of 1" square tubing and 1" angle. Upright is a 1-1/2" angle 60" tall. Paddles are 1/4" AR 500. It breaks down into 10 pieces for ease of transport to the range I use. I need more (better) pics, but here's one my wife took.

 

[NYCone]

I built this dueling tree over the holiday break. Base is a combination of 1" square tubing and 1" angle. Upright is a 1-1/2" angle 60" tall. Paddles are 1/4" AR 500. It breaks down into 10 pieces for ease of transport to the range I use. I need more (better) pics, but here's one my wife took.

Great work. I have to get my wife to let me shoot more often...

 

[C91x]

We had this little 10 gallon fish tank than my son has been bugging my wife and I to setup but we didn't have a stand. I looked at how much a stand was for one of these little things and couldn't do it.

I didn't take any pics of the build but I think it turned out pretty good. Also gave the wife a reason to try that burned wood look she's been wanting to experiment with.


The front "legs" angle out so the kids can't tips it over and yes those are dimple died sides lol why not!





Turned this little knob out of aluminum for the door and painted it to match.

 

[ez-duzit]

x--just the right height for your son.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I bet he loves that tank! I know my kids are infatuated with fish tanks when we see them.

 

[C91x]

x--just the right height for your son.

That was actually quite an argument between him and his little sister. I ended up splitting the difference so that he was eye level with the top and her with the bottom.

I bet he loves that tank! I know my kids are infatuated with fish tanks when we see them.

Yeah it was a hit. After we got fish in it, he stated that it was like a dream come true.

 

[harley jim]

Five minute project

Cleaned off the rust

Two small welds

Tap with hammer

Kindling for later

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[mcmlvif100]

Five minute project

Kindling for later

Very clever. Definitely need to build a couple of those, one for us and one for a colleague. Thanks.

 

[22george]

good idea.

 

[harley jim]

Thanks guys. The kindling splitter works great.

I finished the motercycle fender today that I had started earlier.

Bottom of a propane tank

It needed to be heavy duty, the kid is almost sitting on it and he's a big boy.

Primed

Painted


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[XJSuperman]

Bolt-on jack mounts for my trailer. I didn't get a pic of the raw welds so you'll have to squint a little.

 

[jones988]

Attempting to fix a few spots on the factory roof for my racecar. I'm no pro welder, so we will see how it turns out. I built the body for it out of aluminum sheet metal, but I think it would be cool to try and keep the original roof.

 

[Deadsquiggles]

Finally started building the stands for my bench grinder and belt sander. Still need to cut out and weld the bases for the grinders. I welded one with cursive c’s and the other one, I put on my big Jack stands and did downhill weaves.