How do you keep it from moving when you push against the grinding wheel?
Two of the wheels on each stand lock and they’ll be on the user side of the stand. If that Doesn’t work like I plan, I might build a wooden base with a bigger footprint and attach it with wood screws.

You might consider just 2 fixed castors on one side, attached in such a way as the are slightly above the floor/base plate.
That way you can rock/tip it back onto the wheels to move it like a hand truck.
And rock it forward/back on it's base when you get to where you going and it will be stable.
Just know that anything on top will fall to the floor when you tip it
I did this to mobile work bench and it works a treat.
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Could you put a fold down plate on the front to stand on? That would hold it.
Could you put a fold down plate on the front to stand on? That would hold it.

My vise / 2 grinders / H.F. roller are all on mounts now that clip in my table . 2inch trailer hitch tubes welded under the table to the framework . A 1/2inch pinch bolt on the bottom back to take out play if needed .

Where are you storing these tools when not in use on the table?

I’d say go for quality looking welds with proper speed and penetration. I wouldn’t wanna get in the habit of rushing through welding just because what I’m working on at that particular might not be structural. Just because something isn’t structural or non load bearing doesn’t mean it can’t fail unexpectedly due to subpar welding.Speaking about bubblegum looking welds.
I've noticed the welds on things I've bougt appear to be have done cold(er) and at a too fast travel speed.
These beads also appear proud of the base metal and show very little penetration along the edges.
I recently bought a HF MC lift jack has weld that look like this, and some reviews talk about weld failures and have pictures.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-...t-60536.html?_br_psugg_q=motorcycle+jack+lift
I have to commend HF for publishing bad reviews and I've written some myself that they posted...but that's another subject.
I have some welding coming up that is not structual and I'm thinking about adjusting my welder to produce weld like this, so I can move along faster.
I'm not looking for HF bashing type responses here as many other places sell the same products just a different color.
I'm just looking for comments on producing welds like this as an alternative to big fat, wide, almost burning thru, penetrating beads.
what say you?
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I’d say go for quality looking welds with proper speed and penetration. I wouldn’t wanna get in the habit of rushing through welding just because what I’m working on at that particular might not be structural. Just because something isn’t structural or non load bearing doesn’t mean it can’t fail unexpectedly due to subpar welding.
Thanks for the response
It's more about the welds not being a stick out center stage feature, and just disappearing.
I don't expect to fail as it will be a static display, under no stress except gravity.
Maybe I'll try siver solder or torch welds,
thanks again
.
No project atm but I added a new member of the family to supplement the MM200.
Anyone try the eBay/china spool guns? For $150 I'm going to try one out until I can justify a TIG (it doesn't look like Hobart even makes a dedicated one anymore, and the mulits are only DC). Sadly they seem to have canned the excellent i165, which was a miller with different paint.
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Ive wondered about those as well. Ive got an ac/dc tig but a spool gun for my Miller 211 would be a nice addition but not the $400 they want for one.
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Farmall,
Would love to hear your opinion as I've been considering the same for my ironman 210.
Can you share a link with what you bought?
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s--which RPC did you choose?
Can you update how you wire it up? I know the principal behind it ,but I’m not sure how o do it.It’s an older (about ten years old) American Rotary 20hp. Their heavy duty model from that era. I’m really impressed with it. I got it on trade. I think it’s going to work out well. There will be a three phase panel on the output side.
Can you update how you wire it up? I know the principal behind it ,but I’m not sure how o do it.
Thanks
Thanks, sounds pretty straight forwardI followed the manufacturer’s instructions. It has single phase 240 supply and the idler motor and three phase loads connect to the three phase terminals. And, grounding. The American Rotary converters are really nice.
There is another guy with the same pictures minus the big "Jinslu" graphic for $99. I took the gamble as heard these are ok. Just don't get the one with the plastic barrel.https://www.ebay.com/itm/150A-Alumi...313017?hash=item2ac0dca8b9:g:tPYAAOSwUm5b634s
This was the most reputable seller and best price (it appears they're all the same).
I’m installing a 20HP rotary phase converter. I wanted the idler motor up and out of the way.
Mounting bracket has clearance for existing rigid conduit. This is why there are two gussets. Worked out well.
I’m still learning how to fill small gaps in my less than optimal fit up. I store a ladder and hand truck under.
Sorrylittle stupid question, but what that RPC does?
I’m still learning how to fill small gaps in my less than optimal fit up.
There is another guy with the same pictures minus the big "Jinslu" graphic for $99. I took the gamble as heard these are ok. Just don't get the one with the plastic barrel.
I’m installing a 20HP rotary phase converter. I wanted the idler motor up and out of the way.
Mounting bracket has clearance for existing rigid conduit. This is why there are two gussets. Worked out well.
I’m still learning how to fill small gaps in my less than optimal fit up. I store a ladder and hand truck under.
Sorrylittle stupid question, but what that RPC does?
3 phase power is used on bigger motors and usually isn’t available in residential areas. A phase converter created three phase power from ordinary single phase power.
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3 phase power is used on bigger motors and usually isn’t available in residential areas. A phase converter created three phase power from ordinary single phase power.
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Thanks for the answer.