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Deadsquiggles

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Joined
Nov 3, 2014
Messages
769
Location
Chesapeake, VA
How do you keep it from moving when you push against the grinding wheel?

Two of the wheels on each stand lock and they’ll be on the user side of the stand. If that Doesn’t work like I plan, I might build a wooden base with a bigger footprint and attach it with wood screws.
 

Kenstone1

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Joined
Oct 2, 2015
Messages
734
Two of the wheels on each stand lock and they’ll be on the user side of the stand. If that Doesn’t work like I plan, I might build a wooden base with a bigger footprint and attach it with wood screws.

You might consider just 2 fixed castors on one side or the back, attached in such a way as the are slightly above the floor.
That way you can rock/tip it back onto the wheels to move it like a hand truck.
And rock it forward/back on it's base when you get to where you going and it will be stable.
Just know that anything on top will fall to the floor when you tip it :sad:
I did this to mobile work bench and it works a treat.
:)
 

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Deadsquiggles

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Joined
Nov 3, 2014
Messages
769
Location
Chesapeake, VA
You might consider just 2 fixed castors on one side, attached in such a way as the are slightly above the floor/base plate.
That way you can rock/tip it back onto the wheels to move it like a hand truck.
And rock it forward/back on it's base when you get to where you going and it will be stable.
Just know that anything on top will fall to the floor when you tip it :sad:
I did this to mobile work bench and it works a treat.
:)

Yeah I considered that too. But with my garage only being like 16x20 and fairly full, I liked the idea I’d not having to tip it one way or the other. I imagine there’ll be some trial and error to see what works best.
 

sweetk30

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Joined
Jan 2, 2011
Messages
2,306
Location
finger lakes area upstate ,ny
My vise / 2 grinders / H.F. roller are all on mounts now that clip in my table . 2inch trailer hitch tubes welded under the table to the framework . A 1/2inch pinch bolt on the bottom back to take out play if needed .
 

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slodat

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
3,679
Location
Central-ish, WA
My vise / 2 grinders / H.F. roller are all on mounts now that clip in my table . 2inch trailer hitch tubes welded under the table to the framework . A 1/2inch pinch bolt on the bottom back to take out play if needed .

Where are you storing these tools when not in use on the table?
 

Kenstone1

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Joined
Oct 2, 2015
Messages
734
Speaking about bubblegum looking welds.

I've noticed the welds on things I've bougt appear to be have done cold(er) and at a too fast travel speed.
These beads also appear proud of the base metal and show very little penetration along the edges.
I recently bought a HF MC lift jack has weld that look like this, and some reviews talk about weld failures and have pictures.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-...t-60536.html?_br_psugg_q=motorcycle+jack+lift
I have to commend HF for publishing bad reviews and I've written some myself that they posted...but that's another subject.

I have some welding coming up that is not structual and I'm thinking about adjusting my welder to produce weld like this, so I can move along faster.

I'm not looking for HF bashing type responses here as many other places sell the same products just a different color.
I'm just looking for comments on producing welds like this as an alternative to big fat, wide, almost burning thru, penetrating beads.
what say you?
:dunno:
 

Deadsquiggles

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 3, 2014
Messages
769
Location
Chesapeake, VA
Speaking about bubblegum looking welds.

I've noticed the welds on things I've bougt appear to be have done cold(er) and at a too fast travel speed.
These beads also appear proud of the base metal and show very little penetration along the edges.
I recently bought a HF MC lift jack has weld that look like this, and some reviews talk about weld failures and have pictures.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-...t-60536.html?_br_psugg_q=motorcycle+jack+lift
I have to commend HF for publishing bad reviews and I've written some myself that they posted...but that's another subject.

I have some welding coming up that is not structual and I'm thinking about adjusting my welder to produce weld like this, so I can move along faster.

I'm not looking for HF bashing type responses here as many other places sell the same products just a different color.
I'm just looking for comments on producing welds like this as an alternative to big fat, wide, almost burning thru, penetrating beads.
what say you?
:dunno:
I’d say go for quality looking welds with proper speed and penetration. I wouldn’t wanna get in the habit of rushing through welding just because what I’m working on at that particular might not be structural. Just because something isn’t structural or non load bearing doesn’t mean it can’t fail unexpectedly due to subpar welding.
 

Kenstone1

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Joined
Oct 2, 2015
Messages
734
I’d say go for quality looking welds with proper speed and penetration. I wouldn’t wanna get in the habit of rushing through welding just because what I’m working on at that particular might not be structural. Just because something isn’t structural or non load bearing doesn’t mean it can’t fail unexpectedly due to subpar welding.

Thanks for the response
It's more about the welds not being a stick out center stage feature, and just disappearing.
I don't expect to fail as it will be a static display, under no stress except gravity.

Maybe I'll try siver solder or torch welds,
thanks again
:)
.
 

Deadsquiggles

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Joined
Nov 3, 2014
Messages
769
Location
Chesapeake, VA
Thanks for the response
It's more about the welds not being a stick out center stage feature, and just disappearing.
I don't expect to fail as it will be a static display, under no stress except gravity.

Maybe I'll try siver solder or torch welds,
thanks again
:)
.

So in that case, I’d still go for full penetration, but then dress the welds with a flap wheel.
 

Farmall450

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Joined
Dec 23, 2011
Messages
13,355
Location
Marengo, Illinois
No project atm but I added a new member of the family to supplement the MM200.

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Anyone try the eBay/china spool guns? For $150 I'm going to try one out until I can justify a TIG (it doesn't look like Hobart even makes a dedicated one anymore, and the mulits are only DC). Sadly they seem to have canned the excellent i165, which was a miller with different paint.

s-l1600.jpg
 

C91x

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Joined
Aug 26, 2015
Messages
267
Location
Prescott Valley
No project atm but I added a new member of the family to supplement the MM200.


Anyone try the eBay/china spool guns? For $150 I'm going to try one out until I can justify a TIG (it doesn't look like Hobart even makes a dedicated one anymore, and the mulits are only DC). Sadly they seem to have canned the excellent i165, which was a miller with different paint.

s-l1600.jpg

Ive wondered about those as well. Ive got an ac/dc tig but a spool gun for my Miller 211 would be a nice addition but not the $400 they want for one.

Sent from my SM-G960U using The Garage Journal mobile app
 

vlocci

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Joined
Sep 13, 2005
Messages
115
Location
boston
Farmall,
Would love to hear your opinion as I've been considering the same for my ironman 210.

Can you share a link with what you bought?



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slodat

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Feb 6, 2010
Messages
3,679
Location
Central-ish, WA
I’m installing a 20HP rotary phase converter. I wanted the idler motor up and out of the way.

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Mounting bracket has clearance for existing rigid conduit. This is why there are two gussets. Worked out well.

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I’m still learning how to fill small gaps in my less than optimal fit up. I store a ladder and hand truck under.

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slodat

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s--which RPC did you choose?


It’s an older (about ten years old) American Rotary 20hp. Their heavy duty model from that era. I’m really impressed with it. I got it on trade. I think it’s going to work out well. There will be a three phase panel on the output side.
 

stinkity stoink

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Joined
Apr 8, 2007
Messages
730
Location
New Jersey
It’s an older (about ten years old) American Rotary 20hp. Their heavy duty model from that era. I’m really impressed with it. I got it on trade. I think it’s going to work out well. There will be a three phase panel on the output side.
Can you update how you wire it up? I know the principal behind it ,but I’m not sure how o do it.
Thanks
 

slodat

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Messages
3,679
Location
Central-ish, WA
Can you update how you wire it up? I know the principal behind it ,but I’m not sure how o do it.
Thanks


I followed the manufacturer’s instructions. It has single phase 240 supply and the idler motor and three phase loads connect to the three phase terminals. And, grounding. The American Rotary converters are really nice.
 

quadrcr87

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Joined
Jul 5, 2013
Messages
1,036
Location
Travelers Rest, SC
A couple projects I’ve finished up recently. More details in my projects thread if you are interested.

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Farmall450

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Joined
Dec 23, 2011
Messages
13,355
Location
Marengo, Illinois
China spool gun showed up friday. Really impressed that I ordered it Monday (night) and received it friday. Amazing, seeing it came from China....USPS couldn't get a letter across town in that amount of time.

Anyhow, once I find a cylinder of argon cheap I'll fire it up. Grabbing some .030 Hobart Al 4043 wire next time I'm at Farm & Fleet.
 

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stinkity stoink

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Messages
730
Location
New Jersey
I followed the manufacturer’s instructions. It has single phase 240 supply and the idler motor and three phase loads connect to the three phase terminals. And, grounding. The American Rotary converters are really nice.
Thanks, sounds pretty straight forward
.
 

viikinki

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Joined
Feb 28, 2015
Messages
56
Location
Oulu, Finland
I’m installing a 20HP rotary phase converter. I wanted the idler motor up and out of the way.



Mounting bracket has clearance for existing rigid conduit. This is why there are two gussets. Worked out well.


I’m still learning how to fill small gaps in my less than optimal fit up. I store a ladder and hand truck under.




Sorry :confused: little stupid question, but what that RPC does?
 

Kenstone1

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2015
Messages
734
I’m still learning how to fill small gaps in my less than optimal fit up.

What I do for gaps may not be a "sound" practice but works for me.

I clamp a piece of (1/4") aluminum behind joint gaps when welding steel.
That keeps the weld from blowing thru.
-OR-
I cut the head off a nail and lay it over/in the gap.
It melts into the bead when welded over.

Like when I weld a swivel castor rigid I lay pieces of a nail over the bearing gap and weld over it, usually in 2 or 3 places.

Either method may not be structurally "correct" but work for me.
:)
 
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Farmall450

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Joined
Dec 23, 2011
Messages
13,355
Location
Marengo, Illinois
There is another guy with the same pictures minus the big "Jinslu" graphic for $99. I took the gamble as heard these are ok. Just don't get the one with the plastic barrel.

For the Ironman 230?

I saw cheaper ones but only for the smaller welders. either way I'm ok with that price.
 

BD1

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Joined
Mar 18, 2007
Messages
4,602
Location
north side
I bought the Eastwood Contour SCT on sale after Christmas. I'm impressed with it for the $180.00 sale price. I saw they have a tool and accessories holder so I decided to make one.
 

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scout4bta

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Joined
Nov 2, 2017
Messages
90
Location
Willcox Arizona
I needed a jig to hold the transfer case up off the table for reassembly. The factory would have you disassemble the input side so that it sets flat on the table. Or cut a hole in the table for the input to set in.
This is a quick fix, one time use jig.
And there was no warpage, to speak of.
 

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strength_and_power

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Joined
Apr 26, 2015
Messages
1,393
I’m installing a 20HP rotary phase converter. I wanted the idler motor up and out of the way.



Mounting bracket has clearance for existing rigid conduit. This is why there are two gussets. Worked out well.


I’m still learning how to fill small gaps in my less than optimal fit up. I store a ladder and hand truck under.




Sorry :confused: little stupid question, but what that RPC does?


3 phase power is used on bigger motors and usually isn’t available in residential areas. A phase converter created three phase power from ordinary single phase power.


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strength_and_power

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Joined
Apr 26, 2015
Messages
1,393
Starting tomorrow on a 20’ long 30” wide ramp for an upcoming job. It will need to support around 6,000#s. Got a fresh bottle of 90/10, a 44# spool of .045. Going to be getting after it with the Miller 350p set for pulsed spray transfer. Should be a good time.


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