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[strength_and_power]

Got the ramp frame mostly built. Need to flip it over and weld out the bottom side. I dislike using angle and C-channel unless absolutely necessary due to the waviness it can have. This job solidified my dislike further.
Decent progress for 8 hours.





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[ez-duzit]

s--looks good from here.

 

[sweetk30]

Beefy

 

[Old Man Roger]

Starting tomorrow on a 20’ long 30” wide ramp for an upcoming job. It will need to support around 6,000#s. Got a fresh bottle of 90/10, a 44# spool of .045. Going to be getting after it with the Miller 350p set for pulsed spray transfer. Should be a good time.


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What is the ramp for? Pretty narrow considering it has to hold 6000 pounds.

 

[strength_and_power]

What is the ramp for? Pretty narrow considering it has to hold 6000 pounds.

We have 3 safes, each weighing 4,200#s plus an electric pallet jack that will be going up this ramp. Our pallet jacks are special order and are 21” wide with 30-36” long forks. A conventional pallet jack is 28” wide with 48” forks. The 2” x 1/4” wall square tubes are spaced for my load and drive wheels.


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[metal1313]

How high is this ramp going? Think the electric pallet jack will have enough traction? It seems like a pretty eloquent solution to the problem of elevating 4K

 

[Old Man Roger]

We have 3 safes, each weighing 4,200#s plus an electric pallet jack that will be going up this ramp. Our pallet jacks are special order and are 21” wide with 30-36” long forks. A conventional pallet jack is 28” wide with 48” forks. The 2” x 1/4” wall square tubes are spaced for my load and drive wheels.


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Nice! I suspected a pallet jack was involved.

 

[strength_and_power]

How high is this ramp going? Think the electric pallet jack will have enough traction? It seems like a pretty eloquent solution to the problem of elevating 4K

The rise is 49”. I will have three coworkers with me and will assist the pallet jack. If it was a single safe, I would use cribbing and take it up step by step. With three, the ramp was a better option. Originally the plan was to bring in a 40 ton crane, remove a glass roof panel and bypass the steps but the building owner’s glass guy quoted around 10 grand for just the removal and was fairly certain the panel wouldn’t come out without breaking. Removing a window was discussed but shot down by the building owner as well. So here we are lol.
This was a 2,000# safe we took up 20 steps. Pucker factor was pretty high.

 

[Old Man Roger]

I got stressed just looking at those pictures..lol

 

[BD1]

I'd be concerned about the existing stairs.
Did you shore or crib those from below ?
That's a pretty concentrated load. Hope it went well.


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[shortykorte]

Instead one or three safes, just send small amounts to us to hold for you.


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[joe49]

Were these safes are being placed, have the floors been engineered for them.

 

[Strouty]

I would have so much custom made special material handling equipment if I moved safes for a living. We always built funky equipment for mountain top tower sites. Great setup for the safe in that first picture, pretty ingenious and a simple yet elegant solution to a serious obstacle. My long term goal is to be able to move about anything anywhere up to 10k pounds, then later move up to heavier things, right now I feel comfortable moving things about 5k pounds without much worry.

 

[strength_and_power]

Were these safes are being placed, have the floors been engineered for them.

Yes. When I was out looking at the job I saw where they had cut holes in the ceiling below to access the metal joists and weld what looked to be angle iron to the existing diagonal braces between the top and bottom chords. Floor still had a good bit of bounce when I lowered the pallet jack (my pallet jack is a Bishamon Blue Label which has the smoothest and most controlled valving of any of the probably 30+ different brands of pallet jacks I’ve used). Took a decent amount of shimming under the safes to eliminate any rocking or door swing. I’m fully expecting to go back within the next 3 months to level them out again.


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[strength_and_power]

I would have so much custom made special material handling equipment if I moved safes for a living. We always built funky equipment for mountain top tower sites. Great setup for the safe in that first picture, pretty ingenious and a simple yet elegant solution to a serious obstacle. My long term goal is to be able to move about anything anywhere up to 10k pounds, then later move up to heavier things, right now I feel comfortable moving things about 5k pounds without much worry.

An 8,800# Swedish made mini-vault has been my largest solo install. Very few safes that are bigger, it becomes impractical to require an entire storefront to be removed to install the safes and most jeweler’s insurance will only cover up to a certain amount per safe so they will get multiple smaller safes or a modular vault.


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[strength_and_power]

Ramp worked great. Elevated the bottom on some cribbing to slacken the angle a bit more and built a temp lead in ramp. Future plan is to cut the ramp into a 8’&12’ section, I can always glue it back together if need be.




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[Strouty]

You need to learn to weld aluminum.

 

[loganb]

I thought the ramp was to move a safe??? Funny looking "safe" at thr bottom lol

That ramp as a modular, bolt/glue together sections seems like a pretty handy thing to have available for you

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[strength_and_power]

You need to learn to weld aluminum.

It’s on my to do list. My machine will support a push/pull gun so it’s not out of the realm.


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[Strouty]

Push pull is the way to go, I started with a spool gun, bought a push pull, but haven’t set it up yet. I talked at length with a guy that builds aluminum boats for a living and that was all he used in his business.

 

[fartymarty]

I thought the ramp was to move a safe??? Funny looking "safe" at thr bottom lol

Agreed.

I was going to say "I didn't know Victor made safes too." ..but it turns out there was a Victor safe company, so.. I guess some were disguised as tool room lathes.

 

[strength_and_power]

Agreed.

I was going to say "I didn't know Victor made safes too." ..but it turns out there was a Victor safe company, so.. I guess some were disguised as tool room lathes.

It looked to be very well maintained. I typically stay away from moving non-safe items but this was a long time customer and as unfriendly as the building was for deliveries, I made an exception.


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[strength_and_power]

Push pull is the way to go, I started with a spool gun, bought a push pull, but haven’t set it up yet. I talked at length with a guy that builds aluminum boats for a living and that was all he used in his business.

This reminded me a friend actually has a Miller push/pull gun but no machine so I might be able to get it on the cheap.


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[bradpac]

I've only moved a couple of heavy safes and only up a couple of steps or over a threshold. Getting those things up stairs like that is very impressive. Nice job.

 

[gmcgeo]

8.8 install with truss kit on the wrangler

 

[zmotorsports]

8.8 install with truss kit on the wrangler

Nice job on the 8.8 mods and installation. Very nice sound looking welds.

 

[gmcgeo]

Nice job on the 8.8 mods and installation. Very nice sound looking welds.

Thank you, much appreciated!

 

[GTA Matt]

Watched some youtube videos and taught myself how to weld stainless. Built down pipes, y-pipe and mid pipe on my twin turbo iroc. Down pipes are all 3", with 4" from the merge collector back. Multiple v-bands and brackets as well. I noticed a marked improvement from beginning to end, but I'm not going to redo the early welds.

















4", 41 minutes to weld this section

 

[ez-duzit]

G--tough job. Looks like you reduced your ground clearance a bit.

 

[GTA Matt]

G--tough job. Looks like you reduced your ground clearance a bit.

It's actually a hair bit higher then my NA setup I had before. The raised up section was straight prior to this and was the main point of scraping over bumps.

 

[F-66]

I have been working on completing an engine run stand. I have also been learning how to weld stainless exhaust. Here are exhaust pipes and mufflers tacked together.

 

[sqznby]

Watched some youtube videos and taught myself how to weld stainless. Built down pipes, y-pipe and mid pipe on my twin turbo iroc. Down pipes are all 3", with 4" from the merge collector back. Multiple v-bands and brackets as well. I noticed a marked improvement from beginning to end, but I'm not going to redo the early welds.

Nicely done, especially being self taught learning on YouTube.
I've worked with some who've claimed to have been welding for years who cant weld as well as you've thrown down.
Nice car too, do you have a build thread anywhere?

 

[greenlizard]

At the scrap yard this week I picked up a much abused set of 48 inch pallet forks for the 46 cents per pound current price. One tine had a ragged hole near the tip, while the other was mostly severed. Maybe trying to make a shorter set? Waste of a good resource.

Anyway, I filled the ragged hole and cut a new hole for a trailer ball, then cleaned up and welded the partially severed tip on the other. The pic with the tips painted is a bit distorted making it appear one tine is crooked. It isn’t, although they do look like a bit of dental work is in order.

I used my stick machine with 7018, not the wire welder in the background. Took about 10 passes as I had only 1/8 inch rod available.

Oh, if there’s anyone left besides me who doesn’t have a mag drill, you should put one on your list. It was seriously awesome, cutting a 13/16 inch hole through the 3/4 inch fork tine like it was hardwood. This Hougen belongs to my son, but I’m not going to press him about getting it out of my garage.

 

[GTA Matt]

Nicely done, especially being self taught learning on YouTube.
I've worked with some who've claimed to have been welding for years who cant weld as well as you've thrown down.
Nice car too, do you have a build thread anywhere?

Thanks. I really don't consider it terribly difficult, luckily we live in an age with information at our fingertips. If I noticed a problem with what I was doing, and trust me, there was plenty of those, I would research/watch videos on how to improve it. I have limited dexterity on some of my fingers on my left hand, which makes feeding filler consistently the most challenging part for me.

I have a rather abbreviated build thread here, on one of my local boards: https://www.horsepowerjunkies.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152863

 

[king nero]

Did you weld the cut fork as well?
I suppose without knowing the exact base material, you used "normal" wire (SG2/3) and a bit of preheat?
If you had a dedicated welding procedure, do you mind sharing it with us?

 

[greenlizard]

Did you weld the cut fork as well?
I suppose without knowing the exact base material, you used "normal" wire (SG2/3) and a bit of preheat?
If you had a dedicated welding procedure, do you mind sharing it with us?

Yes, I repaired both forks. Nothing special about the procedure. I cleaned up the cut with a grinder and a die grinder. The welds were done with 1/8 inch 7018 at 135 amps.
No preheat was used as the forks are a ductile steel and definitely not brittle. The cut damaged fork required around ten to twelve passes, so I ran several, then turned it over and ran a couple of beads on the back side to reduce warping.

 

[king nero]

Thx for the feedback! I'm not sure that the forks are a ductile steel, but I haven't had them in my hands of course. Most I've seen are a high strength, high carbon steel, that require special precautions when welding, that's why I asked.

 

[greenlizard]

Thx for the feedback! I'm not sure that the forks are a ductile steel, but I haven't had them in my hands of course. Most I've seen are a high strength, high carbon steel, that require special precautions when welding, that's why I asked.

Oh. Well, I’ll report back if they fail in use. It wouldn’t be the first time I’ve been wrong...

 

[sweetk30]

Friend has these roll up doors to add deadbolt claw locks to . He needed mounting tabs on them since there going in aluminum and not steel . And here is 1 old box rusted out / full of dirt / lock pins gone .

Was a easy job for the little hobart 140 mig off 110volt . Used my port-a-band on swagoff road table to cut tabs from some 3/16 plate . About 2hr time start to finish .

 

[zmotorsports]

Watched some youtube videos and taught myself how to weld stainless. Built down pipes, y-pipe and mid pipe on my twin turbo iroc. Down pipes are all 3", with 4" from the merge collector back. Multiple v-bands and brackets as well. I noticed a marked improvement from beginning to end, but I'm not going to redo the early welds.

Very nice work on the exhaust system.