Yes I have the miller filter. It combined with all the other steps seems to work fine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BZAHQMS/?tag=atomicindus08-20That smoke is really really bad for you.
Yes I have the miller filter. It combined with all the other steps seems to work fine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BZAHQMS/?tag=atomicindus08-20That smoke is really really bad for you.
Nice.Yes I have the miller filter. It combined with all the other steps seems to work fine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BZAHQMS/?tag=atomicindus08-20
You didn't bother reading the description did you?Not sure that “odor” filter is a great idea. Read the spec for it and it comes up short.
Galvanized coatings can be deadly too. The way to save your lungs is with a real filter…your call OP.
Pure unadulterated weld ****.
Here is the steps I use = No Milk Required, no Headaches, no BS - 1st step grind all the galvanizing off the area you are going to weld. Grind and then grind some more. This was thick hot dipped (not plated) with a really thick coating and its stuck on the metal well. Getting this off takes care of 90% of the problem. 2nd get the Miller mask off amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BZAHQMS/?tag=atomicindus08-20 3rd open the garage door and place a fan at the entrance to move the air. My biggest mistake at first was not grinding enough and still having the surface contaminated. When that would happen the mask would still filter the smoke/fumes, but the weld may be compromised depending on how much was in the weld.Drink lots of milk. It'll help. (Welding galvanized)
Miller LPR-100 Half Mask Respirator with Nuisance Level OV Relief ML00994 The Miller ML00994 Half Mask Respirator filters 99.97 percent of welding fumes and mists and removes nuisance level organic vapor odors. P100 nuisance level OV relief filters have a carbon layer and are designed for use with organic vapor concentrations not exceeding OSHA PELs or other applicable government occupational exposure limits, whichever is lower. The replaceable P100 filter cartridges have an assigned protection factor (APF) of 10 and effectively remove airborne particles and oil aerosols, hazardous solid dust particles, metal fumes and mists including: hexavalent chromium metal, stainless steel, galvanized steel, steel/manganese alloys, aluminum, cadmium and lead fumes. Features P100 filters have added layer of carbon to help remove Organic Vapor Odors (below OSHA PEL) that can be found in
After I bought my first MIG I mostly used my Lincoln buzzbox running junk rod on 225A as a cuttting torch.I've already checked on Utube and found a few examples of converting an old Lincoln 225 AC to a DC Combo. This is something I would like to try to do to my machine and wondered if any of you experts have ideas on it. I got the Lincoln for free so I can afford to do some upgrades to it for improvement. This is just something to get me going as I am a newbie welder and want to have some fun with it.
Can you show me what you may have done to your AC machines?
They're drawer fronts, piece of metal with two bends at the top and are screwed to the drawer. Welded a little cap on the ends of the pull.Nice job! I need to build a bigger welding table, really like your design.
Are the drawerr pulls just square tube?




Smart work with a simple little jig to make them all perfect.Made some T-bar clamps for this little project: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/chainsaw-holders-for-atvs
Cut the heads off some stainless bolts with a Dremel, v-grooved the cut end and rounded it out with a Dremel stone to kinda match the Ø1/4" round rod. Zap zap zap, wire brush brush brush, good enough. For reference both the round rod & threaded rod are Ø1/4" x 1.75" long.
More to come...
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Made some T-bar clamps for this little project: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/chainsaw-holders-for-atvs
Cut the heads off some stainless bolts with a Dremel, v-grooved the cut end and rounded it out with a Dremel stone to kinda match the Ø1/4" round rod. Zap zap zap, wire brush brush brush, good enough. For reference both the round rod & threaded rod are Ø1/4" x 1.75" long.
More to come...
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I had the same question when I saw the pics- I was looking for the hinges....Mielked, first off I spy a pretty cuul ride on the lift..wuz up?. But I'm not following the tail design on the trailer. I get its a ramp and obviously its a dedicated design for something. But with that overhang being so low you don't have any concerns about it getting hung up on dips and entrances or is that not a concern?.
Just wondering.
Neat multi-tool.Made a “multi tool” for my skid loader. Has a receiver tube straight out to use for moving trailers. Also put on a second receiver angled up at 60 degrees, and I made a 8’ boom that can be put in that. Can also put a tow hook insert in one on the receivers to use for tasks such as pulling fence posts, etc. There are three loops on the left side to hold/store additional receivers and an ammo can on the right side to store a chain, hitch pins, etc.
Another thing I intend to use it for is to reach up into trees to dislodge “widowmaker” branches that are hung up. I do have additional pieces of tubing and I may set them up to lengthen the basic 8’ boom for more reach into the trees.
Actually I considered that.Neat multi-tool.
Hope you want constructive criticism. I don't think your tension ******** the long crane "stick" is doing anything. That piece of tubing will just fold up right where it exits the 2 inch receiver. Those tension straps help on something like an engine hoist where the lift cylinder is directly under the riser for the tension strap.
I'm often wrong though.