Show your "Long C" Craftsman!

[JoCoSawdust]

Yeah I'd have to pick that saw up for the badge and motor. Hard to tell from the pics but looks like it may be one of the larger hp mill type motors which are harder to come by than the common capacitor or split phase ones. Of course that's coming from a guy that's going to have to start hanging machines from the ceiling in order to be able to walk through the shop because he has zero self-control when he sees a good deal.

 

[thehorse13]

Here's my complete amber handle long C set.

 

[JoCoSawdust]

Fantastic set!!!

 

[Old Radar]

Beautiful collection! Just poking my nose in, but I'd change out those cardboard liners to something that doesn't attract/retain moisture.

 

[thehorse13]

Beautiful collection! Just poking my nose in, but I'd change out those cardboard liners to something that doesn't attract/retain moisture.

The cardboard was changed to a rubber liner after the ride home.

 

[outofbounds]

The badge alone is worth that much........

Agreed. Bought a Long C lathe from him and made the exact same comment to him. He was adamant that someone buy and carry away the entire saw as he is moving soon.

 

[Old Radar]

I think this counts as a Long C. It shows in the '49 catalog. 1/2" square drive ell for 69 cents. I paid three times that!!

 

[outofbounds]

Found this "long C" Mortise Chisel buried in an old top chest I dragged home earlier this year. Curious of the code BP, and even more perplexed by the fact that I found this with green electrolysis discoloration on it. When scrubbing it down with a scotch bite pad I apparently have taken off some of the top layer finish to reveal a copper cladding underneath. What gives? Any experts know the what's and why's to this?

 

[RTM]

I believe the copper is one of the prep steps to Chroming.

I have a plane iron with the same phenomenon.

 

[Provincial]

Yes, copper is the base coat for plating. Copper, then Nickel, then Chrome is the high end of plating. Chrome over Copper was a later development that was used where the product was not exposed to weather and was not expected to be very long-lived.

In Chrome-over-Copper, the Chrome layer was probably extremely thin because it was a cost-saving process. It makes sense that the Chrome went away and left some of the Copper behind.

 

[Outlawmws]

It's likely what you scrubbed off was nickel plating - not chrome. Chrome would resist, unless its peeling off (with razor sharp edges...)

Nickel can easily be re-plated. I know a couple of guys that do it on a table top basis. Plan to do some myself...

 

[JoCoSawdust]

I dabbled with nickel plating not long ago out of curiosity on some drawer pulls. The process was easy, cheap and worked like a charm but I ended up with a pretty dull finish, even after polishing it. Reading threads and watching videos on it, there's ways to increase the quality of shine but I haven't gotten back to it just yet.

 

[Oldtuleguy]

Works better if you do a layer of copper first.

 

[JoCoSawdust]

I'll try that next time OTG. Interesting process to watch.

 

[Lesserstore]

Found this "long C" Mortise Chisel buried in an old top chest I dragged home earlier this year. Curious of the code BP, and even more perplexed by the fact that I found this with green electrolysis discoloration on it. When scrubbing it down with a scotch bite pad I apparently have taken off some of the top layer finish to reveal a copper cladding underneath. What gives? Any experts know the what's and why's to this?

I remember reading somewhere that the BP code was Union, but I can't find it. I did find these chisels listed in the Sears Catalogs from 1934-54. They changed the model number in the mid 30s, and during WWII and until 1947 they were high polished. And from 1948 to 1950 they were Vanadium steel, different handle design and chromed. From 1951-54 they went back to a high polished finish, and another different handle design.

Here's a 1938 catalog listing:

 

[outofbounds]

I remember reading somewhere that the BP code was Union, but I can't find it. I did find these chisels listed in the Sears Catalogs from 1934-54. They changed the model number in the mid 30s, and during WWII and until 1947 they were high polished. And from 1948 to 1950 they were Vanadium steel, different handle design and chromed. From 1951-54 they went back to a high polished finish, and another different handle design.

Here's a 1938 catalog listing:

Terrific insights....Thanks Lesserstore!

 

[Lesserstore]

No problem.

 

[d42jeep]

Is the logo on this auger bit considered long C?
Below is my Circle H 3/8” drive set inching closer to completion with help from Username and JoCo. Thanks, guys!
-Don

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Is the logo on this auger bit considered long C?

If you mean from the same era as Craftsman tools that actually have a Long C or Underline logo, yes. I have seen it called geometric C. There's also the Short C, where only the "r" is underlined.

 

[JoCoSawdust]

+1 on Lugz's comment on the geometric logo.

Your Fit Mor set is looking good Don. Looks like just the T bar and universal left to go?

 

[bmwrd0]

Found this old guy today at an estate sale, pretty happy with that.

 

[JoCoSawdust]

Nice find! That'll clean up great.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

These "AM9" "Vanadium" needle nosers, picked up this morning at the flea, busted a bit of a Long C dry spell for me. A rose is not a rose is not a rose with these logos, and this one is fantastic. Look at the way the underline thins out around the pivot and then widens with a flourish at the end.

 

[Oldtuleguy]

Very nice

 

[Outlawmws]

That's a cool one Lugz! And they look small? or is the die just big?

 

[Private Lugnutz]

They're 5-1/2".

 

[Outlawmws]

Yep, pretty small!

 

[JoCoSawdust]

It's interesting how many variations of the Long C logo there are out there. That one is a dandy. Nice find Lugz.

 

[Outlawmws]

All different Mfgs without strict control over the Logo. Just basic fount, and general guidelines.

 

[d42jeep]

I picked up these dykes at a Tahoe driveway sale this morning.
-Don

 

[Outlawmws]

Nice!

 

[saukit]

Here are a couple Long C ratchets and also some sockets I found the other day. Making good progress on a 3/8 set!

 

[Zrxrunner]

Time to bear down and try getting used to the updated website, been a while for posting. Busy with sales, but heres my latest find. Online auction for $4!! Too bad it ended up being a husky ratchet, but oh well!

 

[Zrxrunner]

And inside...

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Too bad it ended up being a husky ratchet, but oh well!

Hey, at least it's still "in the family," so to speak. A cousin from New Britain. He may have even been a stowaway they didn't notice when the pieces made the trip to wherever Sears, Roebuck was assembling sets in those Craftsman tagged attache style boxes. And if the boxes were sent to NB to assemble sets as part of their contract, it might've been a very short trip from one side of the factory to the other. Some of those shiny =V= pieces and the Wizard extension are clearly not original to the box or the other Long C Circle-H pieces, but I wouldn't bet my house against the ratchet. Interesting find. And good to see you again, Z.

 

[Outlawmws]

I'd agree with Lugz on that too.

 

[Gear Wolf]

I'm still on information lock down regarding Craftsman ratchets (for now -_-), but I thought I would share this. It at least deals with the OP. ^_^

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Picked up these No. 4546 duck bill tin snips at the flea this morning.

 

[saukit]

ZXrunner would love a few more pics of the box, I assume it’s original to the set?

Edit: belay that, I’m an idiot and missed the clear picture of the box you posted.

 

[Smokeshow69]

I'm still on information lock down regarding Craftsman ratchets (for now -_-), but I thought I would share this. It at least deals with the OP. ^_^

I would certainly not be surprised...Sears played fast and loose with catalog illustrations vs. what was actually offered. Cant wait to see the findings