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Above 1200 Sq/FT T.h.e...e…x….p…..a……n…….s……..i………o……….n

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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MAYOR28

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I did a little work to help get ready for concrete:


Laid a conduit in the middle of the floor for 'future' projects. I would like to locate a in-floor outlet for my table-saw station in the middle of the RH side of the garage. I laid in the conduit now, so that I can drill & cut the box into the floor at a later date. (Anyone have recommendations for the floor mounted boxes???)


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Covered the windows to keep the rain off of the curing floor.


I also spend an enfuriating 1/2 hour try to un-stick my ladder. This was put in before the footer was back-filled, and I was nervous that the floor was now too tall to get the ladder out. I was right......I got it stuck between the floow and the roof pitch. !@#&^%(*!@#(&&!@&^!@#



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Z06Joe

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This looks like it is going to be the perfect setup. Congrats my man!
 
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MAYOR28

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We got concrete!

The cold, rainy (again) weather led to a long long day for the concrete guys. They showed up at 0700, first truck at 0730, done pouring by 1030, but they didn't leave until 2300.........and then they came back the next morning at 0730 to 'burn' it again.

Overall I think it looks fine, the apron got a little messy in the rain. But we had to leave for the weekend, so we'll see the final result when we get back.

IMG_20181220_223344376.jpg
 
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MAYOR28

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How long should I wait until the concrete is ready for moderate use? Moderate being parking cars, walking around, scaffolding, etc.

Does the colder temperatures affect the curing time?


I am also a little worried about some of my cars dripping on the floor before I am able to stain/seal it.
Anyone have recommendations on using a plastic drop cloth or rubber tarp until the concrete is sealed?



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benicebr

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Nov 19, 2017
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Merry Christmas!! Great detailed posts on your build. I'm working on a 45x36 garage up in carroll county. Going through the same issues you had with initial bids from GCs....had several tell me they are booked through next year and several provide outrageous bids. Looking like I'll have to be my own GC.

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AZ Pete

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Aug 15, 2011
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Central Arizona
I like the spiral stairs for space saving, but what provision are you making for moving furniture, or other large items, up stairs?


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MAYOR28

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Merry Christmas!! Great detailed posts on your build. I'm working on a 45x36 garage up in carroll county. Going through the same issues you had with initial bids from GCs....had several tell me they are booked through next year and several provide outrageous bids. Looking like I'll have to be my own GC.

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Good luck!

Being your own GC isn't too bad. I would recommend finding a friend who has built something similar and pick their brain on the good subs around.




...
 
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MAYOR28

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I like the spiral stairs for space saving, but what provision are you making for moving furniture, or other large items, up stairs?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I am going to put a trap door in near the opposite end, where the storage end is. Then use a piece of one of my ladders to make a ladder lift (like a shingle/roofing lift) to get stuff upstairs. I have been trying to find an inexpensive AC winch to power the Houston, but I may just resort to a boat trailer style winch.




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wasfast

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Not expert advice but my opinion; cold weather slows the reaction down so time to reach full cure is likely longer. I'd keep cars off it for a couple weeks just to be sure. Meanwhile, I'd cover the slab with 6 mil plastic (if you have oil drips) or floor cover paper (if you're going to drywall and/or paint.
 

C_F

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I wonder if putting plastic down would trap moisture as the cement cures? A few of my older vehicles like to "mark their territory" on the driveway. Because wind can blow away a tarp, I have laid down 2x4' pieces of MDF board. It works really well, and absorbs oil drips pretty well too.
 
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MAYOR28

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I wonder if putting plastic down would trap moisture as the cement cures? A few of my older vehicles like to "mark their territory" on the driveway. Because wind can blow away a tarp, I have laid down 2x4' pieces of MDF board. It works really well, and absorbs oil drips pretty well too.
Yeah, trapping the moisture us what I was worried about.




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Bib Overalls

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Dec 4, 2006
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Location
Jonesboro, Arkansas
In cooler weather concrete cures slow and actually ends up being stronger than concrete placed in hot weather. Concrete cures to its maximum strength over a 30 day period with most of the cure taking place in the first week. You should be able to park vehicles now.

I use cardboard under my leaky vehicles and also when I am doing oil changes.

Harbor Freight has a compact 120 volt winch. I have one in my shop and it gets alot of use. No problems so far. Affordable.
 
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MAYOR28

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Harbor Freight has a compact 120 volt winch. I have one in my shop and it gets alot of use. No problems so far. Affordable.

The one that is $150? That doesn't seem that affordable to me. But I did see that Northern Tool has a cable hoist for under $100. I may keep my eyes out for a clearance version or a Craigslist score.

Otherwise, I'll just use a reel type handle crank.




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MAYOR28

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Planning on moving a few cars into the garage tonight to free up driveway space.

Very excited for the inaugural use, even if it is just to get some cars out of the way!




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MAYOR28

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Here are some pictures of the not so great apron. Not really the best, but certainly not great.....

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I really don't know if they could have done any better given the weather, but it is a little disappointing. Luckily, the interior looks fairly good, and so far looks to be be setting up to a uniform color.

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toyoguy81

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Dec 16, 2013
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Missouri
I have bee reading your build and so far, its looks amazing. Nice and spaceous. Im wondering why there was not a threshold cut in for you garage doors in your concrete work. On all of mine , the apron is about 1 1/2" lower than the shop floor for the garage doors to "sit" into.
 
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MAYOR28

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I have bee reading your build and so far, its looks amazing. Nice and spaceous. Im wondering why there was a threshold cut in for you garage doors in your concrete work. On all of mine , the apron is about 1 1/2" lower than the shop floor for the garage doors to "sit" into.

Did they pour your floor and apron separately?


I believe they call them Rain Lips here, but the doors will sit on the apron level, not the floor level. That way, if there is wind driven rain, it won't make it onto the garage floor, because it is stopped by the 'lip.'

At the man door, the lip is outside, so the door can swing freely.
 
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that-guy

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NoVA
not sure what they can do about the apron now to make it right except to hammer it all out and pour a new one...let the GC know you aren't happy with it and he'll make it right
 
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MAYOR28

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Would renting a rotary concrete grinder be an option? :headscrat
:beer:

Seems like a lot of work for something that I am really not that upset about. The GC has a lot of other stuff to accomplish that is much more important than that apron. I don't think I am going to push the issue, unless something else comes up.
 
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MAYOR28

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They got a little more work done last week. Most of the metal strapping (hurricane strapping), and house wrap was put on. Still missing 1/2 the house wrap on the West gable, not sure why they didn't finish that....

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The ran out of joist nails for the strapping, so they jumped onto the stair case build:

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I cannot say enough good things about Salter Spiral Stair. They helped me think outside the box so that I could use a 'stock' stair case even with my taller ceiling height. Their shipping was fast and easy, and the build quality of the stair is top notch. I think it took the GC a little longer to assemble than he anticipated, but in the end it looks good.

It isn't in its final home, we need to shim it up a little, and add the straight section to the top. Like this:

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I have a friend welding up a set of stair runners to close the 42" gap between the top of the spiral and the second floor. Should be done early next week, then we can get it installed and move on to framing inspection!


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MAYOR28

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To recap, the GC is on contract for basically a dried-in building, with minimal electric. I will finish the interior upstairs and down, and run some additional electrical with my own electrician. I had planned on doing a lot of this work during the weeks surrounding Christmas and New Years Holidays, but alas, the GC is nowhere near done.

So, I took some time to get prepared for finishing the garage once the GC is done. I have been hunting Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, and local forums looking for scaffolding for over 6 months. No one has posted any for sale nearby, no one. So, I decided to build it:

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While certainly not OSHA approved, it will serve well enough, and when I am done, I can simply disassemble it and use the lumber for workbenches and other shop stuff. I still need to add a railing around the top (I ran out of 2x4s), and I am going to add weights (35lbs) to each corner to counterbalance if I am working on one side.

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MAYOR28

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Question to the audience:


Should I be adding saw-cut joints to the concrete?



I feel like the answer is yes, but the concrete guys said they were not told to do it, but the GC told me it would be done. I think it should be done, not sure of the best placement for joints, but if you think it isn't necessary, then I will drop the issue with the GC.


Thoughts?

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wasfast

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San Diego CA
I'd want saw cuts. The slab is going to crack so best to guide it where you want it.

Regarding the rough finish on the apron, I'd knock off the worst of the high spots and skim coat it.
 
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MAYOR28

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I'd want saw cuts. The slab is going to crack so best to guide it where you want it.

Regarding the rough finish on the apron, I'd knock off the worst of the high spots and skim coat it.
Should I put a cut through the middle of lift runners? Or just cut up to the lift bay? From what I have read, the internet recommends 10-18 foot squares.




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MAYOR28

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With what is looking like a mottled coloring on the concrete, I have been looking into acid stains. They seem rather easy, but I'm not sure what color would look best.

Dark gray?
Rust?
Black?




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that-guy

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Sep 6, 2012
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NoVA
With what is looking like a mottled coloring on the concrete, I have been looking into acid stains. They seem rather easy, but I'm not sure what color would look best.

Dark gray?
Rust?
Black?




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i'm going with a medium grey. don't wanna go too dark so the light can bounce back. otherwise you won't have enough light in areas hidden from the ceiling lights
 
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MAYOR28

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It has been very nice to have a large area to do a few small projects. I am thinking about rolling a few logs in here this weekend to do a little chainsaw milling..... we'll see if the weather and my ambition holds out.

Supposed to get windows and siding delivered next week!

A view from on top of my new scaffold:

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