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Teardrop trailer build

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aka Larry

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May 2, 2012
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Location
Eastern, NC
Awesome work man. It's really coming together nicely. I reading this thinking why I would need one just so I could build one! I like having a 'project' and this looks like it would be an ambitious one (for me).

Two comments, and these are just because I have used (2) HF trailers for builds in the past. First, unless you actually like the color pink, go ahead and paint over the OE red frame because it WILL turn pink after some UV exposure (see pics below). Second, have you eliminated the tilt function for the tongue? I highly suggest you do away with that connection and weld it up. It will actually move back and forth a little and over time rips the mounts either into or right off the frame. I know because that's exactly what happened to mine. Here are a few pics and my repair:

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Syberia

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Perris, CA
I may have to do that, so long as I can manage without lighting the whole thing on fire!

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LX-Markham

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Apr 27, 2013
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Location
Markham, Ont.
I just read through the entire thread. I was really hoping to see a finished trailer on page 7 :D
Looking great so far! Love it!
 
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Syberia

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Thanks. It's coming along, I've just about finished the plumbing then I've just got to do the rest of the siding/molding (hopefully next weekend or into next week) then make the rear hatch and install the solar panels.

My birthday is March 15, and we'd like to be able to celebrate by taking our first trip in it.

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Syberia

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Loosened up my belt and put on my best "plumber's cleavage" last night and ran some pipes.

I hooked up the water tank, using a ball valve at the lowest point to allow for draining it later



Also attached the fill and vent tubes to the tank. The one on the left is for filling, the one on the right vents back through the filler. I drilled several small holes in the cap to allow air in while the tank is in use.



Finished hooking up the sink drain, too. The plastic pipe that came from the S-trap transitions briefly to 1 1/2" ABS, then down to 3/4" PVC with a hose fitting at the end.



 
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Syberia

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Now that the weather is cooperating a little more, I've been able to get a fair bit done lately

Added siding to the other side that was just bare wood. Cut out for the window and water heater.



Installed the window and second porch light



Started to install the molding. First I siliconed the **** out of the corners where bare wood shows





Bent the molding into place. Applied more silicone to the bottom (I figure it's better to have too much silicone than a leaky roof) and secured with screws. There will be a vinyl piece that slides into the gap and hides the screws, but it seems the one I bought was too big so I'll have to order a smaller one.



The spot in front where the two pieces of plastic meet will be covered by aluminum trim, I just haven't had time to go buy a piece of aluminum yet.



Oh, and this is the USB powered night light my wife picked up for the trailer:

 

Jazz1

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Jan 3, 2016
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4,184
Location
Thunder Bay On.
Its a great build but I would not use silicone anywhere for sealing. It does not have the adhesive quality of seam sealer JMHO
 
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Syberia

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Jan 13, 2014
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Been sick lately but finally have some progress to report

Installed a 2" strip of aluminum over the seam between the two plastic panels. The bottom panel fits up under the top, so water cannot penetrate



Started installing my inverter. First, I mounted a GFCI outlet in an old work box to the side of the tongue box to serve as circuit protection and to provide a place to tie together all my wires, as well as give me an exterior source of power at the front of the trailer.





Routed the two pieces of Romex that feed my other outlets into the bottom of the box, and a short piece of 12/3 SO cord into the top. Attached a plug to the end of the cord.





Mounted the inverter to the inside of the box with a pair of 6" square U-bolts. Plugged the SO cord into one of the inverter's outputs and connected to the battery with some #4 awg cable. Probably overkill (inverter is only 750 watts) but oh well.

I also replaced the crappy thumbscrews that came with the inverter with some nylock nuts so the big cables won't come off. So far, it's powered our movie projector for over 4 hours without running down the battery, and that along with some small kitchen appliances (blender, food processor) is mainly what we'll be using it for.





I just have to cut down the pieces of U-bolt sticking through the side of the box and paint the ends black to prevent corrosion, and seal the outlet cover (I thought I had some black roofing sealant but it appears I used it all on another project).

 
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Syberia

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Jan 13, 2014
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Finished the plumbing last night. First, I finally got around to installing the water heater (propane isn't hooked up because I realized the way I was doing it wasn't the best arrangement, so I ordered a new high pressure regulator for the front which I found out was back ordered for 10 days after I had already placed the order...)



Made some 1/2" input/output ******* out of CPVC to allow my various hoses to connect to them. One in from the pump, two out to the sink and shower. Also the way the heater mounts is via three small screws in the front through sheet metal and nothing in the back. I don't see that arrangement being very sturdy, so I added a couple of D-rings and the orange tie-down strap to keep the back end firmly in place.

Installed exhaust/access door



Installed shower on the other side and hooked up all connections







Turned on the pump, checked for leaks, tested the fixtures (my free-out-of-someone's-trash-pile faucet needs a new aerator, but that's it) and amazingly everything works with no leaks!
 

aka Larry

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May 2, 2012
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Eastern, NC
I've really enjoyed reading about your progress on this project. This is another one of those things that when you see the completed product, you really don't 'get' all the hours required to make it happen.

Awesome work man!
 
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Syberia

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Thanks. Honestly I don't get it myself, lol. Expected to be done at least a month ago.

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aka Larry

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Thanks. Honestly I don't get it myself, lol. Expected to be done at least a month ago.

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LOL. I've learned over the years when someone ask me how long it will take to do 'X', I take my estimate, double that number, double it again, and I still take longer than that!

I humbly say that most of my projects turn out decent, but I'm waaaaaay too slow to ever make a dime doing any of it.
 

zmotorsports

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Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,312
Location
Northern Utah
I completely agree that many times unless someone has been there and done that they have no idea the workmanship or especially the time that goes into doing things.

Great job, the trailer is turning out great.

Mike.


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hefnerconstructionlc

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Nov 1, 2016
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665
Location
Kansas
That thing is looking super spicy. Great work. Talk about a **** load of hours. Anything handmade takes forever. Each time I make a simple bracket out steel it takes 45 minutes. I can only imagine the hours for a camper from scratch. With no prior build or template at that. Keep up the good work, it is really something special.
 
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Syberia

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Perris, CA
I'm getting there, slowly...

Time to start on the rear hatch. Since I'm finally feeling better, I spent most of the day working on bending the side rails of the metal frame that I will later cover with wood/plastic. I started by tracing the curvature of the trailer onto a piece of 2x12 (I paid about $3 for it from the scrap pile at Home Depot) and cutting out the pattern with a jigsaw.





I've seen metal heated and bent against wood before so I know it can be done, however to give some extra protection, I brought out the old kiddie pool to soak my board between uses. It ultimately turned black, but only caught fire a few times and quickly went out each time.



Since I needed to heat a good few feet of 1/8" bar stock to red hot at a time, I wasn't going to get away with using the foundry to forge in this time around. Time to do things real old school.



My makeshift forge. Basically a big fire with air from my shop vac directed at it through a 1" pipe. Puts out a lot of heat!



Lay the metal in, pile some more wood on it, and it gets red hot in a couple of minutes. Bent it around my wooden template with the help of a hammer, and repeated for the other side.



Two curved pieces, cut to length. Didn't even do significant damage to my template, though I don't see a reason why I'd need to use it again. Going to hold onto it just in case.



Time to change my clothes and take a shower, though. I reek of smoke everywhere!

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Wardster

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Mar 28, 2008
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Kingston, Ohio
Did you install a fuse between the positive side of your battery and the inverter? You will need to add one if you didn't already to protect the wiring and prevent a possible fire.
 
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Syberia

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I didn't but you're right. Have an 80 amp circuit breaker along with the shortest length of cable I could get on order.

I feel like I'm on the home stretch now. Spent the last couple days welding, grinding, and painting. Here's the frame for the rear door:





And a mounting bracket for the solar panels. Angle iron bolts down to the trailer roof, and panels bolt to the straight rails.



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Syberia

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Spring back?

If you're referring to the rear door, it's going to be held by the hinge on top, a pair of gas lift struts in the middle, and locked in place on the bottom while closed. That along with some 1/4" plywood should keep it rigid enough.

Today I attached the mounting rack to the top of the trailer



And attached the solar panels to the rack. Used wing nuts so I can take them off and set them on the ground facing the sun if e ever necessary.



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Mr.N

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Jul 13, 2005
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Mpls, MN
Today I attached the mounting rack to the top of the trailer

And attached the solar panels to the rack. Used wing nuts so I can take them off and set them on the ground facing the sun if e ever necessary.
I am not sure wing nuts are best. The trailer will have a lot of vibrations and back them off in transit.
 

tvtaurus

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Nov 16, 2014
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Indiana
Keep up the good work. You have made a lot of progress since I last checked in on this thread.
 
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Syberia

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I am not sure wing nuts are best. The trailer will have a lot of vibrations and back them off in transit.
I'm actually debating whether or not to even leave them up while traveling. Wife is worried about rock damage.

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shedfullatools

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Nova Scotia
I'm actually debating whether or not to even leave them up while traveling. Wife is worried about rock damage.

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I would take them down and put them elsewhere when cruising down the road, kinda fragile and way to expensive to risk imho
 

AldeanFan

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Sep 9, 2014
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Location
Niagara on the Lake
I don't think you'll have any problems with the solar panels, I screwed a similar panel to the roof of my airstream 3 years ago and it's still up there.


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6PTsocket

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Mar 12, 2014
Messages
4,593
I've looked at building them several times, probably with a bit more suspension and tires to go behind the Jeep. The wife isn't interested in camping in one at all, so probably not going to happen.

Watch out for those TNTTT folks. Some really good information there but like most groups there are some elitist that will have you thinking if I don't use this hinge the whole thing will leak and explode on the highway.

If it was me I would be trying to convert just about everything to 12v and only have the inverter for a couple things. A 12v PSU is pretty cheap for when you have shore power, but a big advantage on the Teardrops is being able to park them anywhere.
Reminds me of a remark a friend made years ago. He said his wife's idea of roughing it was to stay in a motel that only had black and white TV.

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6PTsocket

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Maybe HF has improved the kit, but it came with all nylocks. Since I didn't install the post brackets on the side, I had a bunch of extras that I used on the carriage bolts that hold the wood down.
I doubt it. I just returned a defective HF tractor lift that was assembled with class 4 metric bolts. I had never seen less than class 8 before. I had to look it up to confirm such weak bolts were really available.
On my HF trailer I used the stock bolts and had to end up replacing them all with nylocks, so good call.


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autoclassicnut

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Nov 24, 2007
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Montana
You Might want to beef up the axle as those aren't very sturdy... I have one and with about 650 lbs in it the axle was bending in the middle...
 

KMinAF

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Mar 5, 2011
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Fairview Utah
You Might want to beef up the axle as those aren't very sturdy... I have one and with about 650 lbs in it the axle was bending in the middle...
Similar issue with mine after I seriously over-loaded it with cinder blocks I found that mine had a slight bend at the spindle but the "U" channel axle remained straight.

Really enjoying the build, great workmanship and well thought out.
 
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