To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT The 12-Gauge Garage

Workspaces sized between 265 and 485 squarefeet.

Guster

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Messages
1,543
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
Next time you can save more by using cotton fabric instead of glass if you won't be using epoxy. It will be just as strong and have an even better finish. Your average cotton bedsheet is about the same weight/strenght as 3oz glass and the weave is so fine that it does not form pinholes. It does not sand nicely but great of an out of the mold coloured finish.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

gtr cook

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 13, 2012
Messages
174
Location
Kent, England
Really impressed with what you have produced and the tinkering you have done to get a good part.

Please make sure there's a part 3!
 

Squankum

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2011
Messages
7,714
Location
Southeast
Jack, great new cover story on the new Road & Track about the Singer 911.

IMHO, lots off frooty silliness involved, and I continue be amazed at other peoples' ideas of "light weight", but 4.0 liters?! That's very hard to ignore!

Have you considered slide throttles or individual throttle bodies? Perhaps you could cobble something together from junkyard throttle bodies, or, perhaps motorcycle junkyard ITB's.

I once knew a fanatical autoxer who had his own custom slide throttle made, all it took (kinda) was a machinist, some aluminum plates, and maybe some funky coating on the throttle plate itself. You may not know any machinists locally, but on GJ, I'm sure there'd be volunteers.


_
 
Last edited:

Grizz1963

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2010
Messages
12,014
Location
Rochester, KENT. UK
I wish more people could see your work Jack.

As always, I continue to just lift my jaw from the floor.

That wing and the whole process is rather awesome.
 
OP
J

Jack Olsen

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 22, 2009
Messages
6,678
Location
Los Angeles
Jack, great new cover story on the new Road & Track about the Singer 911.

IMHO, lots off frooty silliness involved, and I continue be amazed at other peoples' ideas of "light weight", but 4.0 liters?! That's very hard to ignore!

Have you considered slide throttles or individual throttle bodies? Perhaps you could cobble something together from junkyard throttle bodies, or, perhaps motorcycle junkyard ITB's.

I once knew a fanatical autoxer who had his own custom slide throttle made, all it took (kinda) was a machinist, some aluminum plates, and maybe some funky coating on the throttle plate itself. You may not know any machinists locally, but on GJ, I'm sure there'd be volunteers.
All true. But it's hard to beat the reliability and lifespan of a stock motor. But right now I'm trying to work out some approximation of the benefit that would give me -- by using my kids' toys. I got a steering wheel to go with his PlayStation, and I'm trying to tune a 911 (as close as I can get) to match my own car. That way, I can test the effects of adding horsepower (or other stuff) virtually, if I can get it to work.

Here's a video showing my fumbling starting point. Maybe it will lead to slide valves. But I'll want to see some cost/benefit data before I jump, even if it's from a kids' game.

I wish more people could see your work Jack.

As always, I continue to just lift my jaw from the floor.

That wing and the whole process is rather awesome.

Thanks, Grizz! I keep thinking about your teardrop tailer, and thinking of whether I could do something similar along the lines of the one in this video -- but with my 911.

VZZyt3.jpg
 

Brompty

Active member
Joined
May 17, 2013
Messages
27
Location
Kent, England
Hi Jack

Love the thread, the garage and the car; I picked it up through the Petrolicious video more than a year ago.

Have you also considered your also of more speed from another angle? You have invested so much time and money in the car that maybe you need someone else now to drive it to see if the car can possibly get to the time you wish to achieve. I think endless laps on a video game is a great way to get all the practice you need to achieve perfect lines on the track. But in the same way that the fastest car in the world is a hire car, perhaps you need someone that does not care about the car to be able to get the most out of it?

Nevertheless, inspirational stuff as always
 

Squankum

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2011
Messages
7,714
Location
Southeast
I have returned, with links with pictures!

Steve's custom slide throttle on his Fiat:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/12159/message/1199972518/History+Lesson

Steve talking about the motor's mighty output (well, considering):
http://www.network54.com/Forum/12159/message/1200060118/Slide+Throttle+and+DFI

He was aiming for torque, and you don't have room for runners that long, but you're also looking for some shorter runners. BTW, handy fellows have built their own horns using a hydraulic press. (If only you had room for a lathe...)

Not Steve but somebody else showing their DIY slide throttle build, looks within your skill set.

http://www.rotaryeng.net/slide-throttle.html

(I think I'd put the injectors downstream of the slide, for safety reasons.)


The holes in the slidey plate needn't be round at just off-idle. Some go for a < shape, I think. See:

At WOT, nothing but round/hole/nothing there, of course.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    73.4 KB · Views: 120
Last edited:

Squankum

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2011
Messages
7,714
Location
Southeast
Uhhh... I just discovered you probably have VarioRam intake manifold. :tard:

So now I don't know what to think! It is neat...

If this was just a race car, I'd build for the RPM range you're really using on track (recording tach, or in your case, really good video) and that would be horns, and you'd save a bit of rear weight, but...

Yeah, it's also a street car. That's got to be a great thing on the streets, with the extra torque.


http://vwparts.aircooled.net/VDO-Extreme-11000-RPM-Recording-Tachometer-p/v333937.htm
This can record full road race laps, and it's priced to not sell.


.
 
Last edited:
OP
J

Jack Olsen

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 22, 2009
Messages
6,678
Location
Los Angeles
Teardrop Camper -- Structural Thoughts

I'm thinking about building a small teardrop trailer to pull behind my car for camping trips with my kids. (I know a pop-up camper would offer me more space, but there are a few things about teardrops that work better for my situation.)

The basic design of the teardrop goes back to the 1930s, and usually involves a converted utility trailer with a wood-frame structure built on top of it. Like this:

IMG_5065-640x480.jpg


0b1532_23121c6e2c2544f898084dba3d062388.jpg


IMG_6094-640x480.jpg


Then it gets skinned with aluminum sheet, and sometimes even the homebuilt ones come out looking pretty cool. The back usually opens as a hatch for a basic galley setup.

Tahoe_atma.jpg


So that's all well and good -- and tried and tested. But these things often end up weighing close to 1500 pounds. And they also sometimes have weather-related problems, over time. I think part of the problem is that they tend not to be garaged. And they're made with wood.

I would like to make one that's much lighter. And I'd like to make it with no wood at all, and as little steel as possible.

To that end, I've been looking at material samples and testing adhesives with them. Right now, I'm thinking about using Aluminum Composite Panels (which is basically polyethylene Foam Core sandwiched with aluminum) for the walls and ceiling, and corrugated (polypropylene) plastic for the floor. I'd like to use aluminum to connect the floor, walls and ceiling, but I'd like to avoid (as much as I can) a traditional frame for it. And I think I can do away with a lot of the reinforcement typical in an open utility trailer's bed, since the box structure of the camper would provide strength for the floor.

I'm also considering using foam EPS or XPS insulation sheets, adhered to the aluminum composite panels -- both for insulation from cold and heat and also to further strengthen the panels. I will probably use 4mm corrugated plastic for inside the sleeping cabin, since I can cover it with self-adhesive vinyl and make it look like anything I'd like (and hide the wiring and such).

My concern is making a structure that is strong enough -- which is to say it won't pull itself apart under high-speed pothole impacts and the constant vibration and other stresses of being towed.

On the one hand, it seems like the monocoque aspect of the design should be pretty strong without much reinforcement. Using structural adhesives to create uniform adhesion along all the juncture points will distribute stress pretty broadly. And the way the leading edge of the structure curves as one piece from wall to ceiling seems like it would be creating a fairly strong unit, along with walls both fore and aft that will provide more lateral strength.

PCmGej.jpg


So in doing my materials/adhesive tests, I put together a toaster-size box that shows my current thinking. The square tubing frame piece along the top edge is one of the things I'm wondering about. I know that it's a stronger shape than L-shaped angle stock. But I wonder if using 1-1/2" angle stock might be better than 1" square tubing, considering the big picture of the whole structure.

Right now, I'm supporting the corrugated plastic floor with angle stock running along the walls. My thinking is that the trailer supports the walls, which in turn support the floor and ceiling. But the floor itself doesn't need a huge amount of support.

Here's the walls and roof:

rfhwJD.jpg


And the floor being glued in:

uVm8tN.jpg


And the whole thing, albeit without the front or rear sections.

yWM6ys.jpg


I don't have much business making structural engineering decisions. But that doesn't stop me from trying to figure this out -- hopefully with the help of some guys who actually know the stuff.

The forces the thing will be subjected to seem primarily to be a lot of vibration, and then some pretty hard lurches in being towed. I'm going to have the tongue and axle be steel, because aluminum will crack if it's flexed too much. But everything else I'd like to be plastic and aluminum.

Any thoughts?
 
Last edited:

stsmike

Active member
Joined
Feb 20, 2013
Messages
35
Location
Orem Ut.
Re: Teardrop Camper -- Structural Thoughts

Jack,

I think you are on to something here. Can you post some information (specs or brochure) about the materials you are using? This would help a lot in calculating weather or not it will work.

Thanks,
Mike
 

Krash Kadillak

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2011
Messages
4,222
Location
Springfield, Oregon
Re: Teardrop Camper -- Structural Thoughts

You're way beyond my expertise in construction materials (I have none), but having owned both a 5th wheel (27') and a regular (23') travel trailer, I can comment on your requirements..... IMO, a teardrop like you are planning is only fit for 2 people. I don't see how you are going to accommodate sleeping arrangements for all 4 of you. A teardrop is also fairly inefficient as far use of space is concerned. Sure, it's more streamlined, and gets you excellent fuel mileage with your tow vehicle, but square off the shape and you get A LOT more usable space. You need something more like this:

2003-Jayco-Kiwi-17A-Hybrid-Travel-Trailer-Lightweight-Clean-Unit-Concord-NC-17-NC-16662.jpg
 

kerrynzl

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 8, 2013
Messages
5,054
Location
Tauranga, New Zealand
Re: Teardrop Camper -- Structural Thoughts

yWM6ys.jpg




Any thoughts?

Jack, I built an enclosed trailer using the above method and draped it over an Angle steel frame [flange up to get the floor lower]

I used furniture tubing and glued alloy composite signboard to it [ the pre-finished type ]
The biggest issue mine had was it was too lightweight for a large trailer [ the wind made it unstable when towing empty ]

What you are building is a true "monocoque" structure which is very strong.
You won't need any bracing in the sides only around the rear hatch

Go and buy a "Harbor freight" gear driven ring roller for about $75-00 and get a machinist to lathe the rollers for 1/2" furniture tube.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?q=ring+roller

This will help you get the corner frames rolled evenly

Glue the sides and the top to the frames using "Simson ISR 70-03" Urethane adhesive and use either Clecos or countersunk pop rivets to hold it until the glue cures.

Cap it with thin aluminium angle and glue this as well.

You can never have enough clamps.

I did a thread here building a car hauler where I used the same glue to bond diamond plate to the frame [I've never had a failure with it ]
 

Carves

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 9, 2013
Messages
459
Location
Central West NSW .. Australia
Re: Teardrop Camper -- Structural Thoughts

A traditional teardrop, with an airfoil, would compliment the 911 nicely, during lap times .. :D


Not discounting your desire for a teardrop style, or the build challenge, but .....

... Looking at the model you're building, I would suggest forgetting the curves and stay with squares and angles.

This is a little, light weight jobby, I drag all over the place.

Dry01b.jpg


Its on a steel chassis no stronger than one of your HarborFreight, kit trailers, with a timber frame cabin, 8' x 6' x 4', plus the 2' high poptop.

Factory designed/built, for onroad use behind a small 4cyl vehicle ... max weight 750kg.

It normally has a lower stance, but I remounted the axle under the springs for some offroad clearance.

Way more versatile than a teardrop can ever be.


A build material worth looking at - is stuff called MonoPan, A euro product I think ... Becoming common in the caravan and truck body industry down here.

Google will bring up some aussie DIY caravan builds detailing using it.


Looking forward to seeing what you eventually roll out of the, 12 gauge garage.
 

MushCreek

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2015
Messages
9,779
Location
Upstate South Carolina
Re: Teardrop Camper -- Structural Thoughts

I'm thinking about building a teardrop using Klegecell (foam) covered in epoxy and fiberglass cloth inside and out. They build boats that way, and think of the beating a boat can take. Never a problem with leaks, either. Not cheap, though.

I designed mine with a seam halfway up, all the way around. I'd put a hinge at the front, and make it so you could raise the back up for standing headroom when parked. Canvas panels would fill the gap when opened. In nasty weather, I'd just leave it in the closed position.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

54FordPanel

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 7, 2009
Messages
5,711
Location
Fort 54, Littleton, Co
Re: Teardrop Camper -- Structural Thoughts

Oh boy, a Jack Olsen built camper trailer….this should be good.

I wouldn't start with a HF trailer though. JMO.

I can't wait for the build thread

:thumbup:
 

coby65

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2011
Messages
321
Location
Monterey Bay area
Re: Teardrop Camper -- Structural Thoughts

Jack can't help you with the teardrop......no experience but I can recommend the suspension to put under it!
http://timbren.com/axle-less/
I just install in my expo trailer and am very impressed with how smooth this rides. Towing behind a stock 15 Jeep Wrangler 4dr from Monterey to Truckee I never knew it was back there. I have been pulling some type of bumper pull or gooseneck my whole life and never not been beaten up by a trailer in on rough roads. This pulls like a dream.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    140.3 KB · Views: 250
Last edited:

G McKay

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 6, 2014
Messages
6,849
Location
In the garage in Bremerton
Re: Teardrop Camper -- Structural Thoughts

Those are really neat, Jack. I have thought about building one myself from time to time. If you get on FACEBOOK they have a club you can join and get lots of tips. I like them so much I bought a book with hundreds of pictures of them from over the years. And you can GOOGLE them and get a lot of images of them.

Go for it. You'll probably enjoy building it.


:thumbup:
 

Voi

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 10, 2010
Messages
5,146
Location
Western South Dakota
Re: Teardrop Camper -- Structural Thoughts

I'm thinking about building a teardrop using Klegecell (foam) covered in epoxy and fiberglass cloth inside and out. They build boats that way, and think of the beating a boat can take.

In the past year or so I watched a TV show where an architect and her farmer fiance built their dream house for their combined family out of foam. Not SIPs and not ICFs but what appeared to be expanded polystyrene wall and roof panels with steel caps on ends that would connect to each other or to the slab. Presumably then coated with some sort of mesh and polymerized cement based coating.

Since then all of these Tiny House shows have taken off and I often wondered why somebody hasn't used this method to build these tiny houses on trailers, which is basically what you and Jack and considering with the Tear Drop.

It took place in California and I just did a quick Google search and couldn't find anything.

Anyone remember that show or the builder name?
 

driver

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 16, 2010
Messages
126
Re: Teardrop Camper -- Structural Thoughts

As the current owner of a trailer using a foam fiberglass sandwich particular attention has to be made on sealing all the panel joints to avoid water infiltration de-laminating the panel. Mine has leaked causing structural failure of the roof and side walls. I am considering re-panneling the framework using this method:
 

Attachments

  • attachment1.php.jpg
    attachment1.php.jpg
    6.8 KB · Views: 197
  • 2-L.jpg
    2-L.jpg
    89.1 KB · Views: 228

stomperxj

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 30, 2011
Messages
70
Re: Teardrop Camper -- Structural Thoughts

Jack a lot of the strength comes from the front and rear bulkhead making it a box essentially. The galley bulkhead adds side to side stiffness. If I were to build another teardrop I'd do composite panels and use aluminum angle and/or sealed wood 1x2s for structure where needed hidden inside away from the weather. Making it all out of wood is not a problem if you spend the time and money to put a layer of fiberglass cloth on the outside. Makes it waterproof.

There's a guy on the tnttt.com forum that made a teardrop from 1" corrugated cardboard with fiberglass on the inside and outside. Very strong and super light.


Steel frame and all wood body on mine. I should have fiberglassed it but could not afford it at the time:
 

Z48LT1

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2008
Messages
117
Location
Space Coast
Re: Teardrop Camper -- Structural Thoughts

I've long thought scaling down a Shasta "canned ham" camping trailer from back in the day would be a cool look, and give a lot more cubic feet inside, if only by enclosing the wheel wells.
 

Attachments

  • canned ham.jpg
    canned ham.jpg
    93.1 KB · Views: 152
Last edited:

Zeke

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Re: Teardrop Camper -- Structural Thoughts

I don't consider myself to be an engineer but I do have some experience with small trailers, mainly for go karts. IMHO, some weight and COG are important for a nice pulling rig. So I would not be so fearful of a steel frame. I think the benefits outweigh. The other thing is the tiny rims and tires put on the little trailers do them disservice. What you want is a 14 or 15" rim with a tall tire that you can run with low pressure. Helps the suspension a lot. Also, many trailers are sprung with the maximum load in mind. The camp trailer will not come near max load so calculate that and take out a leaf or so.

I would even consider some kind of air ride since there is so much of that kind of stuff around. Think of it, a Citroen type of suspension where you drop the trailer down low on smooth highways for less drag. Having a beam axle going under the trailer frame is the last way I'd consider doing this.

Might be the simplest, but not the best by any stretch. There are some nice IS pics here:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...s-and-small-hard-sided-campers-no-home-builds

And this: https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/...r39niUJOyv_u_ePAKJ6RiQXd_A5p_ARiSwRkhwK0X5wQp
 

Dutch01

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2015
Messages
1,080
Location
Kempton Park, South Africa
Re: Teardrop Camper -- Structural Thoughts

I also have the idea to build a teardrop in the back of my head as kids are all grown up now. I already have a registered utility trailer in crappy condition that will be the donor, dut I saw another design called a BRT that I like as well.

Andre
 

Attachments

  • BRT Tall 2.1 CA.jpg
    BRT Tall 2.1 CA.jpg
    48.9 KB · Views: 125

bczygan

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 4, 2009
Messages
22,002
Location
DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
Re: Teardrop Camper -- Structural Thoughts

Jack,
This is exactly the little mind exercise I did a while back, for personal entertainment.

Like you, I was thinking, "What if the ceiling, wall and floor panels were a sandwich that provided insulation, exterior waterproofing, interior finish and also structure.?

My first thought was panels that had a foam core with either a plastic or aluminum face on the outside and a plastic face on the inside, all bonded together.

Then I wondered if there was a foam panel that had a skin that served all three purposes. Never did the research.

I thought of other difficulties. How do you connect the wall and ceiling panels? And the wall and floor? Do you have mechanical connections? Are they continuous? Or do you bond them together chemically or with a glue or heat?

And the floor panel. It needs to have different characteristics, as the loads are different.

I planned for the floor panel to be load bearing and structural, such that it did NOT require a frame under it. But you would still need a way to transfer the loads from the trailer and it's contents, down into the axle and wheels/tires. Perhaps a plate or plates that go over the mounting points to the suspension and are bonded to the floor panel.

I also wondered about the comparatively heavy steel springs, axles and wheels and wondered if lighter aluminum components were available. I looked into the configuration where a trailer is connected to the tow vehicle with two hitch points and then only one wheel is mounted under the trailer. This would reduce running gear weight.

I also thought about larger wheels and tires. Something like motorcycle type ones with just a few hard spokes.

Then I got to thinking some more and wondered if you could use carbon fiber in a mold, to create the shell in one complete piece and then spray coat the inside of it with a foam insulation whose skin would be the finished inside surface. The shape would be completely curved and streamlined for strength and wind resistance.

You could even embed solar cells in the skin.

Then I was thinking that this would be an enclosed tomb, just as the teardrops are, and I hate being that enclosed, especially at a campsite with a view. So some consideration needs to be given, in the design, for expanding the envelope of the trailer, once it is set up, with fabric and screened extensions and windows. Slide out and fold out and push out parts of the shell that would expand the usable space and open it up in good weather and take advantage of cool breezes but still shade it from the sun.

And then I got so lost in thought, that I completely lost my way....

Just a thinkn'!

Bill
 

aussiek2000

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2010
Messages
8,490
Location
not Australia
Re: Teardrop Camper -- Structural Thoughts

My grandpa built a teardrop 2 years ago. Built the trailer himself out of 2x4 steel, I think, and then the body out of wood. Pulled it behind a v6 tacoma and 3.0 ranger. they pulled it just fine.

his big problem was (besides registering a homebuilt trailer) no where to do anything in it. If they were out camping and a rain storm came in, they had no where to go. all you can do is crawl in and stare at the ceiling.
 
OP
J

Jack Olsen

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 22, 2009
Messages
6,678
Location
Los Angeles
Re: Teardrop Camper -- Structural Thoughts

Thanks for the response, guys. Lots of collective knowledge here.

Here's the shape I'm currently considering:

0nHjgn.jpg


I think you are on to something here. Can you post some information (specs or brochure) about the materials you are using? This would help a lot in calculating weather or not it will work.

Since it's a material used in construction, there's a lot of data on it:

http://www.lairdplastics.com/product/materials/composites/496-dibondr-product-information

I'm planning on using 4mm panels, adhered to 1/2" or 1" of foam, adhered to 4mm of corrugated plastic. I suspect this will be massive overkill when it comes to panel strength, but making the doors and windows is easier with more wall thickness.

Jack can't help you with the teardrop......no experience but I can recommend the suspension to put under it!
http://timbren.com/axle-less/
I just install in my expo trailer and am very impressed with how smooth this rides. Towing behind a stock 15 Jeep Wrangler 4dr from Monterey to Truckee I never knew it was back there. I have been pulling some type of bumper pull or gooseneck my whole life and never not been beaten up by a trailer in on rough roads. This pulls like a dream.

That looks cool.

I definitely won't be starting with a Harbor Freight trailer. Partly because flat trailers need a huge amount of reinforcement for strength, where box-type trailers get that strength from the box. At least, that's what I see in truck construction. From my perspective, the floor of this trailer is not very important. The walls and ceiling are the real 'structure' of the thing.

(But then I'm a screenwriter and not an engineer. So take my opinions with the same grain of salt that I do. :) )

My plan would be to do not much more than this for the trailer, buying the axle and wheels and welding the rest. The floor would get some kind of frame around its perimeter, but the strength will come from the wall panels themselves.

8BG6Kv.jpg


Grizz built one a few years ago. I think k it might even feature in his thread on here?

That's what planted the seed in my head. :)

In the past year or so I watched a TV show where an architect and her farmer fiance built their dream house for their combined family out of foam. Not SIPs and not ICFs but what appeared to be expanded polystyrene wall and roof panels with steel caps on ends that would connect to each other or to the slab. Presumably then coated with some sort of mesh and polymerized cement based coating.

Since then all of these Tiny House shows have taken off and I often wondered why somebody hasn't used this method to build these tiny houses on trailers, which is basically what you and Jack and considering with the Tear Drop.

It took place in California and I just did a quick Google search and couldn't find anything.

Anyone remember that show or the builder name?

I don't know the show. But there is a whole community of 'foamie' camper builders who make very lightweight trailers out of XPS foam (usually the Foamular panels sold at big box stores). Once you get up to 2" thickness for XPS, it's a very strong panel. They usually coat them with ordinary canvas fabric, adhered with a wood glue mix. It works very well, although the final look is a little 'softer' than I'd want for this.

But it's a proven construction technique, and nothing beats it in terms of low price and low weight.

I would be happy if I could come out of this with a 600-800 pound trailer. I've heard some concerns about the thing becoming a sail in crosswinds, making it hard to control the tow vehicle. But I think I can compensate for some of this with the design of the trailer itself, its suspension, and with the way I distribute weight to the tongue.

In one respect, trailer gets the same amount of pressure from the wind whether it's light or heavy. Its resistance to changing direction is more when it's heavy, but that applies to getting the thing back in line as well.

But again: I'm brand new to this and am qualified to learn, not teach.
 

wyo george

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2014
Messages
933
Location
Wyoming, USA
Re: Teardrop Camper -- Structural Thoughts

I like your shape a lot and if you haven't already you might browse on over to http://tnttt.com/ I spend a bit of time there. I haven't started my build yet, I gotta finish a couple other projects first. I do have my design worked out in 3D, just waiting to start building the frame.
 

Hobbit

Well-known member
Joined
May 23, 2011
Messages
1,853
Location
Bama
Re: Teardrop Camper -- Structural Thoughts

Give the trekker trailers website a visit. They have a simple teardrop design that they claim is 750lbs 4' model & 850lbs 5' model. One photo under the ABOUT tab shows the skeleton of one being built that might give you some construction ideas.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom