Or have it more vertical.Made a hopper and chute for our wheat grinder. The integral hopper is really small and empties in about 10 minutes. The new one goes for about 40, which is awesome. What’s not awesome is I need to redo the chute coming off the bottom of the grinder. It backs up with flour and doesn’t go down, so it just starts spilling over the sides. I think I just need to make the opening larger.
The Everything 3D Printer Thread
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gpiggaz
Well-known member
Not to be Debbie Downer. But is that Food safe filament and a food safe hot end? I was printing some stuff that needed both a few years ago. I found food safe filament from a Canadian company and I bought steel nozzles to handle concerns about brass constituencyMade a hopper and chute for our wheat grinder. The integral hopper is really small and empties in about 10 minutes. The new one goes for about 40, which is awesome. What’s not awesome is I need to redo the chute coming off the bottom of the grinder. It backs up with flour and doesn’t go down, so it just starts spilling over the sides. I think I just need to make the opening larger.
nozzles were from Amazon I believe. Filament was from Filaments.ca a Canadian company. It’s been a few years so I have no idea if either are still available but I wanted to point out there are such a thing or there were.
gpiggaz
Well-known member
I worried about the colors used and bought what was supposed to be food safe pla from that company
also I wanted to make sure my nozzle didn’t contain any harmful metals. I was using a pretty standard set up in those days
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BD55
Well-known member
Great point - my understanding is that the food safe aspect of 3D printing isn't so much a function of the material, but rather that the layer lines can trap/grow bacteria with wet/liquid foods. With this being a temporary contact point for flour and wheat berries (which are dry) there shouldn't be much that will happen by way of trapped bacteria in the layer lines. That being said, the green parts are PETG and the black/blue parts are PLA. As for my hotend, who knows. It's a Bambu hardened nozzle, but I'm sure there's other stuff in the hotend that contacts the filament.
ArcReactorKC
Well-known member
In the words of every tradesman I've ever worked with "good enough for the girls we go with"
im happy with it. hope the customer is. i got 7000 units to make if so
theres a neat one
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
You could print a whole potful of those things before you hit the cost of a small set for one machine.
no need for that to be aluminum.
kppolich
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Little personal organizational thinking print today with this post it note to-do list stencil thingy.
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kppolich
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olds70supreme
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It most likely is an angle issue, but you can verify by comparing to the angle of repose for your material...Made a hopper and chute for our wheat grinder. The integral hopper is really small and empties in about 10 minutes. The new one goes for about 40, which is awesome. What’s not awesome is I need to redo the chute coming off the bottom of the grinder. It backs up with flour and doesn’t go down, so it just starts spilling over the sides. I think I just need to make the opening larger.
Angles of Repose
Tipping or dumping angles for common materials like ashes, sand, earth, shingles and more.
www.engineeringtoolbox.com
If it is, you could try shimming the mill up with spacers or notching the base plate board where the chute is in order to gain clearance for a steeper chute.
Without a doubt, steeper is better. Orienting the print so the layers were in line with the direction of travel would reduce friction as well.It most likely is an angle issue, but you can verify by comparing to the angle of repose for your material...
Angles of Repose
Tipping or dumping angles for common materials like ashes, sand, earth, shingles and more.
If it is, you could try shimming the mill up with spacers or notching the base plate board where the chute is in order to gain clearance for a steeper chute.
ArcReactorKC
Well-known member
Why didn't I think of this when I was working industrial maintenance? I had a printer capable of ABS in the damn facility!
Jeff
Well-known member
Jeff
Well-known member
My best bud retired to Maine and asked if I could make flies. I found a file, printed, then painted with metallic. They will be adding the hooks up there. My only regret is that I can't visit and enjoy some of those trout. The box is just a cool touch.
STL as requested:
Maybe I'm being dense, but it looks like I have to install Bambu Studio, open the print profile, and export it as an .stl in order to get the .stl. What the heck? Seems overly weird. I just got my 0.25mm nozzle and would love to try this, but I'm not going through all that.
Edit: Found what appears to be an .stl of the same fly:
https://www.printables.com/model/159387-fake-fly/files
Maybe I'm being dense, but it looks like I have to install Bambu Studio, open the print profile, and export it as an .stl in order to get the .stl. What the heck? Seems overly weird. I just got my 0.25mm nozzle and would love to try this, but I'm not going through all that.
Edit: Found what appears to be an .stl of the same fly:
https://www.printables.com/model/159387-fake-fly/files
If you download the .3mf file you can should be able to export the .stl without issue. I just tried it on that file in PrusaSlicer and it works....I assume any slicer that can open .3mf's can do the same. Or you can just download the .3mf into your choice of slicer program and print directly from there, most of the modern ones out there should support the format. The Import/Open in Bambu Slicer button on Makerworld is just downloading the .3mf file and then auto-opening it in Bambu Studio
Here's mine. Prusa MK3S+, 0.25mm nozzle, 0.05mm layer height, PLA. Printed flat with no supports. I had to put a hand lens in front of my phone to get a decent pic.
Edit - I have no idea what size these are supposed to be. The stl was huge, so I scaled it down until the legs were two extrusions wide.
Edit - I have no idea what size these are supposed to be. The stl was huge, so I scaled it down until the legs were two extrusions wide.
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Jeff
Well-known member
The fly looks like you powdered it or is that the PLA?
I think it might be a combo of the glare from the very bright LED lights above and my phone sucking at close-up shots. It might also be the PLA. It's a roll I haven't used much yet.
Jeff
Well-known member
It's a bit different print because it's made to print flat unlike the first fly. No supports needed.
I printed at 50% and 35%, then did a batch at 30%.
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My final attempt. Scaled to 35%. I bent the legs after printing. I really need to print a plate full of these to leave around my neighbor's garage.
5" PETG soft jaws with 5x2mm neo magnets. 5 perimeters and ~80% infill.
working on spool holders for 10kg spools. the cheapest way I can figure to get this done:
C channel with a 3/8" thru hole. self tapered to the racking rail. bend 3/8" rod to hang. once inserted a quick tack to keep the rod from coming out of the C channel. when reload is needed it pivots out to allow access. then hangs.
bend up on end to capture spool.
scales up to 20 per rack
then scales further to
C channel with a 3/8" thru hole. self tapered to the racking rail. bend 3/8" rod to hang. once inserted a quick tack to keep the rod from coming out of the C channel. when reload is needed it pivots out to allow access. then hangs.
bend up on end to capture spool.
scales up to 20 per rack
then scales further to
XJSuperman
Well-known member
No need for a larger diameter where the spool sits? I'd be worried about drag, but you don't seem to be. Obviously a quick 3d print part could slide on before that last bend.
not sure a huge difference from 3/8" to 1/2" rod. this is the ghetto solution we been running for 6 months now.
thats the wire bend: same plane. nothing fancy. table bender will work fine to make them:
laser cut/bent bracket mount. self tapper into the cross beam. lock it into place with a collar. slots to level it off with all the flex in things.
laser cut/bent bracket mount. self tapper into the cross beam. lock it into place with a collar. slots to level it off with all the flex in things.
larry4406
Well-known member
Neat spool holder!
Instead of a tack weld to secure the bent rod to the upper bracket, you could use a push nut.
Instead of a tack weld to secure the bent rod to the upper bracket, you could use a push nut.
ooooooo yes. i like it.Neat spool holder!
Instead of a tack weld to secure the bent rod to the upper bracket, you could use a push nut.
Poolshark314
Well-known member
My latest creation: The Bambu AMS Hexagon Storage Wall (HSW) Wall Mount!
I have 3 AMS units so I liked the idea of combining the convenience of wall mounting the AMS units with the modularity of HSW. This way I can hang tools and storage in the same place. There is an existing model from another person, but it has many errors in the file as well as MILLIONS of triangles in the STLs. My model is under 15,000 triangles per side. I will soon design a few accessories for it like a plate rack
I have 3 AMS units so I liked the idea of combining the convenience of wall mounting the AMS units with the modularity of HSW. This way I can hang tools and storage in the same place. There is an existing model from another person, but it has many errors in the file as well as MILLIONS of triangles in the STLs. My model is under 15,000 triangles per side. I will soon design a few accessories for it like a plate rack
How about a french cleat for easier mounting?
Like this:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/873280?from=search#profileId-825577
Kevin
Like this:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/873280?from=search#profileId-825577
Kevin