Shouldn't they be green?
IDK, the ones I have are black, but genuine Hitachi-Koki units.Shouldn't they be green?

A 37.5mm wrench is always useful to have around, right?
Try a different roll of filament. We've had a couple of rolls just do some really strange stuff when printing.My original X1C has become unreliable. I replaced the complete hot end yesterday. All seemed well for about an hour of extruding PETG. Now it’s not extruding at all. I stopped the print and pulled out a few feet of filament and cut it off. Started over and same thing. Printed for an hour or so and it stopped extruding. The old hot end was the original almost three years old. Not sure what to look at next. Any pointers from someone who knows more than I?
How many hours does it have? Very possible you have wear through on the PTFE from the external spool or AMS.My original X1C has become unreliable. I replaced the complete hot end yesterday. All seemed well for about an hour of extruding PETG. Now it’s not extruding at all. I stopped the print and pulled out a few feet of filament and cut it off. Started over and same thing. Printed for an hour or so and it stopped extruding. The old hot end was the original almost three years old. Not sure what to look at next. Any pointers from someone who knows more than I?
As long as you promise to remake them with the mill after prototyping with the 3d print, it's acceptableCurrently contemplating how big of a party foul it would be to make the mounts for the DRO scales on my mill on the 3D printer.
I was excited you have FPO listed in your state drop down, but it doesn't appear you actually ship to FPOs. Any chance I can convince you to change your mind?schoolhousespools dot com

Followup post: finalized die design for a production run of Christmas gifts. This is a spoon rest made with a combination of the 3D printed dies and standard press brake tooling. Material is 16 ga 304 stainless steel. Top punch is ABS because that's all I had on hand when I started the print, bottom die is PLA. Each are 25 walls thick with 50% triangle infill.Experimenting with 3D printed press brake tooling. Works surprisingly well. PLA, 20 walls, 50% infill. The test piece is 16 ga steel.
I've got a short video of the action on instagram:
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Rich Pantaleo on Instagram: "In Santa's workshop doing some experimenting with 3D printed press brake tooling for this year's Christmas gift. This worked surprisingly well! For the 3d printing nerds, this is PLA printed with 20 walls at 50% infill.
12 likes, 2 comments - richiep_meche on December 13, 2025: "In Santa's workshop doing some experimenting with 3D printed press brake tooling for this year's Christmas gift. This worked surprisingly well! For the 3d printing nerds, this is PLA printed with 20 walls at 50% infill. Metal is 16...www.instagram.com





That's awesomeFollowup post: finalized die design for a production run of Christmas gifts. This is a spoon rest made with a combination of the 3D printed dies and standard press brake tooling. Material is 16 ga 304 stainless steel. Top punch is ABS because that's all I had on hand when I started the print, bottom die is PLA. Each are 25 walls thick with 50% triangle infill.
Also cut together a video of the fabrication process (relevant 3D printed press brake die content starts about 55 seconds in)
How do you log failed VS successful? What's driving the cancelations? Assume thats a failure that gets noticed before it finishes?
How do you log failed VS successful? What's driving the cancelations? Assume thats a failure that gets noticed before it finishes?


Nice setup.Theres QR codes on the front of each machine. operator taps for RFID chip or scans QR code:
Brings up this window on device:
If failed is selected the plate isn't counted towards production for the queue job. in this example 5 print jobs. it would send the retry one to the next printer free.
all the canceled prints were me testing things out with the queue logic.
Nice setup.
Is a failure rate around 10% typical? What's the main driver?
Are you drying filament before running it?
On a print farm or personal stuff? If personal, are you keeping prints that you wouldn't send to a customer? What kind of volume are you doing?Wow, 5% is crazy high, no? I'm probably around 1%... if that.
Had this same issue on my X1C and it turned out I got three spools of bad filament. Tried a totally different filament ( PLA from Bambu ) and it printed perfectly, switched back to one of the other spools from amazon and it acted up too so I returned all three spools.My original X1C has become unreliable. I replaced the complete hot end yesterday. All seemed well for about an hour of extruding PETG. Now it’s not extruding at all. I stopped the print and pulled out a few feet of filament and cut it off. Started over and same thing. Printed for an hour or so and it stopped extruding. The old hot end was the original almost three years old. Not sure what to look at next. Any pointers from someone who knows more than I?
Wow, 5% is crazy high, no? I'm probably around 1%... if that.
Over 20 printers for production parts we are at 4-6% failure. Usual issue is poor first layer adhesion because I don't clean the plates until I start to see severe issues. I'm sure the failure rate could be reduced by the time/payoff isn't worth it.
Always clean your nozzle... A dripping tip can cause issues. Lesson from my early days.we find most. like 90%. of first layer failures are due to a bad Z offset during bed probing due to a little bit of filament stuck on the nozzle tip.
I use a utility knife when cool... If hot use a brass brush.I'm a few weeks into this 3d printer game... how do you clean your (printer's) nozzle?
I'm a few weeks into this 3d printer game... how do you clean your (printer's) nozzle?
Nice! I'm doing my first real print with my new H2D right now. So far, so good and I'm not really concerned about saying bye bye to Prusa. They are just too far behind at this point.Finally doing the first print with the H2C! I promised the boss I wouldn't setup the new printer until I rearranged the office and came up with a better way to store filament. Having spools stacked up like the leaning tower of Pisa is probably not the best way to do this, especially when you have four stacks almost waist high. Bought a used two drawer lateral filing cabinet and it's almost perfect, I wanted a three drawer but glad I didn't get it because it would have been too tall for the space with the printer on top.
First print is a poop bucket because of the new arrangement the one I had for the X1C is too big to git between the back of the H2C and the wall. First observations, it's much quitter than the X1C except when it's changing print nozzles and takes a lot longer to heat up the chamber. Other than that, we'll see later this morning on print quality, it's auto leveling the bed now.
I just bought a sunlu s2 and dried a roll of PETG last night.Nice! I'm doing my first real print with my new H2D right now. So far, so good and I'm not really concerned about saying bye bye to Prusa. They are just too far behind at this point.
Anyone have thoughts on a high temp filament dryer? I was about to buy an AMS HT, but now I'm thinking about a Sovol SH03.
I would like to be able to dry while printing. I know there's a workaround, but I don't feel like jumping through hoops to make it work.I have an AMS HT. Seems good to me so far.
Watched a few videos on the Sovol SH03... If I needed one... That would be my goto choice.Nice! I'm doing my first real print with my new H2D right now. So far, so good and I'm not really concerned about saying bye bye to Prusa. They are just too far behind at this point.
Anyone have thoughts on a high temp filament dryer? I was about to buy an AMS HT, but now I'm thinking about a Sovol SH03.