The Everything 3D Printer Thread
- Thread starter BoilermakerFan
- Start date
pcrov
Well-known member
I've been using Kingroon's PETG for a while now and it's good stuff. One print I finished a roll of Bambu translucent petg swapped to Kingroon halfway through and couldn't tell a change occurred - completely seamless. You can often get it in 10-packs around $6 a kg. Hard to beat.
Model A Fan
Well-known member
Thanks for the information, I appreciate it. I will order some when I have a chance to price shop for the best deals.
garandman
Well-known member
ptt49er
Well-known member
Or check out Jeepxj's school house spools. Known quality and supports a GJ member. I've been very happy with all the filament I received from him.
Are you opposed to Amazon? Lately I've been getting Anycubic PLA for bigger projects (actually used it for a Skadis board). It can usually be found for $8 and change a spool with free 2-day shipping. Doesn't get much better than that.
I have a set of T-handle wrenches. They came in an odd rack that doesn't really work with any of my other tool storage. I decided to separate the sets (metric, SAE, torx), and make racks for them. Did them with a French cleat for hanging, but they will stand on their own as well. I also made the labels big for easy ID.
Full set. I would have paused the print and switched filaments for the labels, but this is for my personal consumption, and I am fine with the sharpie.
I did upload these files to Nexprint. They are awaiting approval.
Designed in SolidWorks for those wondering.
Those turned out really well! Coloring the labels with a Sharpie was an effective functional solution. A "fancier" idea would be a chrome paint marker. This one was recommended by a model car builder friend. My daughter has used it on some art projects and I'm impressed. I think it would have a nice vintage look for organizer labels.
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
oddly enough: piglet
pcrov
Well-known member
Ran across a screwdriver in need of a handle. Thankfully I have a 3d printer and a big *** hammer:
Violently put 2 and 2 together:
It's nothing fancy but turned out feeling pretty good!
If you need one it's up at https://makerworld.com/en/models/2266686-screwdriver-handle#profileId-2470388
Violently put 2 and 2 together:
It's nothing fancy but turned out feeling pretty good!
If you need one it's up at https://makerworld.com/en/models/2266686-screwdriver-handle#profileId-2470388
Model A Fan
Well-known member
When printing Multiboard, would PETG or PLA be better? My garage is not climate controlled and is located in the PNW where we get freezing temps and up to 90°F summer days. I've seen debate on the two materials in that PLA prints less messy and has a tighter fit, but sags easier. PETG is stringier and more brittle, but impact resistant and less saggy.
Any insight on the two?
Fly Fishing Rick
Well-known member
Well this is new... Put a new nozzle on my printer and the tip broke right out as soon as I loaded some filament.
Nice. I made a few handles for some files a few years ago. I heated the files before inserting them into the handles and they pressed in like butter. They have held up great and have not loosened at all.
PETG IMO. its not nearly as difficult as people make it out to be with modern printers.
Damon L.
Well-known member
I couldn't find my metallic sharpies, or I would have used those on the dark blue one for sure. Hence the reason to print shop organization items!
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
a drier is really cheap.
at the $10/kg you can get good PETG for, I really don't see a reason to run PLA
Last edited:
Are any of the aftermarket nozzles any good for the H2 series printers? I already have tungsten carbide Bambus, so I don't specifically need hardened. Just looking to pick a few up to dedicate to TPU and a 0.2 for various non-abrasive materials.
not sure why i'd bother TBH.
with them having the high flow as OEM. and the normal hardened ones for 20 bucks. what am i really gona save here? 5 bucks?
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Does TPU justify a dedicated nozzle/hot end?
Some are less than half the price, so definitely worth it if they are good.not sure why i'd bother TBH.
with them having the high flow as OEM. and the normal hardened ones for 20 bucks. what am i really gona save here? 5 bucks?
I used to use one nozzle for most materials and recently had issues with a partial clog that made TPU print like ****. I'm constantly going back and forth between abrasives, non-abrasives, and TPU, so it makes sense for me. My TPU prints are usually very detailed/intricate and I like to really dial the prints in, so every little bit helps imo.
you spend 1500 on a machine and want to save 10 bucks?
Lol, wtf dude?
the H2 series starts at 1500 a machine.
nozzles are 20 bucks.
half of 20 is 10.
or do you mean the high flow nozzles?
I'm looking for some help getting some things printed. I don't know anything about 3D printing and I don't plan on getting into it, but some of the things I see made on this thread leads me to believe these wouldn't me too hard to make for someone like y'all on this thread!
More info in my want ad-
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...tachment-adapter-fixture.554350/post-11491555
Thank you in advance for any help you may be able to provide!
More info in my want ad-
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...tachment-adapter-fixture.554350/post-11491555
Thank you in advance for any help you may be able to provide!
Do you need the ball detent or just the basic shape? The basic shape would be easy. I would slice them so each layer includes a layer of the snappish part. If you want them to grip the track design in some interference and experiment with making the slot deeper to reduce stress. Not sure I have a great suggestion for the ball detent. You could try a formed in detent but it would likely wear quickly. If you have springs and balls you could recreate the original. Yeah, I think it's doable.I'm looking for some help getting some things printed. I don't know anything about 3D printing and I don't plan on getting into it, but some of the things I see made on this thread leads me to believe these wouldn't me too hard to make for someone like y'all on this thread!
More info in my want ad-
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...tachment-adapter-fixture.554350/post-11491555
Thank you in advance for any help you may be able to provide!
Model A Fan
Well-known member
I have a P1S, and have only printed snowflake Christmas ornaments with PETG, so I have little experience with it. I've done quite a bit of PLA.
My AMS 2 has a drying feature, with everything being so dry due to our current weather, I have not had any issues with moisture in my filaments.
I guess my question about the PLA vs PETG debate is will PETG provide the strength/resilience needed to support tools without sagging/warping? I guess if I do a smaller grid (6x6? 5x5?) instead of 8x8 like I had planned, rigidity could be increased at the expense of using more connectors and therefore reducing my surface area.
Regardless, I'll print a few to test instead of doing my entire wall and then finding out something is wrong/not going to work.
Thank you for the advice.
Model A Fan
Well-known member
I didn't realize people actually use those still... The drop in style offered on Amazon are much more user friendly and you have labeling for the sizes. Have you looked at that type instead? I imagine someone could print you a peg with the proper attachment "feet".I'm looking for some help getting some things printed. I don't know anything about 3D printing and I don't plan on getting into it, but some of the things I see made on this thread leads me to believe these wouldn't me too hard to make for someone like y'all on this thread!
More info in my want ad-
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...tachment-adapter-fixture.554350/post-11491555
Thank you in advance for any help you may be able to provide!
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Yes, PETG is strong and far more resistant to heat than pla
Awesome! I don't think the ball detent is really necessary. I'd be happy to send the extrusion and the little thingamabobs to someone that would like to make these and probably have the ability to sell them on etsy or whatknot.
@Model A Fan I made a ~3' x 4' skadis board out of PLA and I could hang off of it. The overall strength will come down to perimeters, layers, and infill and how many wall attachment points you use. You can always make the bins out of a stronger material as the hooks are the weakest link.
duneslider
Well-known member
Ebay. It works good for stuff that people know they want but not good for custom stuff.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Beelzeboss
Well-known member
I made a test piece of an adapter plate
I had to cut it into a 250x250 square to fit on the P1S but it came out pretty good
I had to cut it into a 250x250 square to fit on the P1S but it came out pretty good
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
The first pass on a magnetic hold down for the laser burner.
I have used Siraya Tech TPU Air. It is very cool stuff!
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Any sage (or otherwise) advice?
I followed their profile recommendations and then dialed in the hardness/foaming with temp. It was surprisingly easy to get good prints out of it.
https://siraya.tech/pages/siraya-tech-tpu-air-user-manual
That's not how this forum works. You have a $5 problem. We gave you a solution that involved buying tools that cost far more than $5. Now you need to do your part by spending the money and then complain about it on the forum next week.