mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Feels like an odd takeaway from these posts.
The Everything 3D Printer Thread
- Thread starter BoilermakerFan
- Start date
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I haven't experienced the downsides. I've had far more failed prints with pla than Petg. Abnormal experience or is that perception a carry over from old printers?
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I agree, no shaming anyone from me. There is no amount less that I could care what everyone else runs through their printers.
I pay $7-8 a roll for PLA. It's always a couple bucks cheaper than the cheapest PETG.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Cheaper is fair. "dirt cheap" for $2-3 less? I see folks buying Petg for under $10 as well, but I just get it from school house spools as it's cheap enough and supports a small business.
Again, everyone should run what they want, from the cheapest Ali-x stuff to $30/kg recycled petg
If you have to resort to calling people names to make your point, you’ve already lost the argument. It doesn’t strengthen your position—it just makes you look uneducated.
I’ve deleted a lot of posts. Let’s keep the discussion civil and focused on the topic rather than each other.
I’ve deleted a lot of posts. Let’s keep the discussion civil and focused on the topic rather than each other.
I do think 30% less than $10, when there is no cheaper filament that can be purchased, qualifies as dirt cheap. Again, PLA has its place and is the right filament for certain jobs. I have 5.5 year-old PLA prints that are still perfect and in daily use. The post above that may have been deleted about failed PLA prints were either due to operator error/bad print settings, misuse, or something else along those lines.
v0 of a console/cupholder for my 72 Nova.
Great first prototype. 10 minutes in the car cutting some cardboard to then measure, 15 minutes at the computer then walk away and get this
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I hope it isn't PLAGreat first prototype. 10 minutes in the car cutting some cardboard to then measure, 15 minutes at the computer then walk away and get this
Looking good. Going to use cup holder inserts or print that? What's going in the rectangular cutouts?
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Prototyping for sheet metal, or is the plan to have a 3D insert as the final base part?
RoflI hope it isn't PLA
Looking good. Going to use cup holder inserts or print that? What's going in the rectangular cutouts?
PETG for now ....if "final" version stays 3d printed vs moving to wood it'll be done in ABS or ASA.
Cupholder inserts show up on Monday....see if I'm happy with them. Will print some rectangle cubby's for the other holes ...thought was that was to hold phones etc
Either 3d printed or wood sides with wood or metal "tops" for the cutouts will be final product...I think
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Gotcha. Was hard to tell thickness from the pics. Did you print at plywood thickness, or just outer shell dimensions for testing?
Wasn't sure if the car was old enough that it would be "upholstered" at the final version
1/8" wall thickness....debating on the upholstery option but trying to avoid it if things stay 3d printed. I think black with fuzzy skin mode on the sides will look good enough for this ride... going for more family weekend cruiser not fully decked out trailer queen. If I found a close match for the carpet color in ABS or ASA I might try it....can always paint it too
bugnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Old tool guy
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2023
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Looks period correct, even the color. Aisle 35 at Kmart.
My revisions are getting worse and worse instead of better and better lol.
Oldest to newest is left to right. It's all good I'm testing things like print orientation and tweaking design features to see how quality is impacted. Silver is PLA and black is ASA.
Oldest to newest is left to right. It's all good I'm testing things like print orientation and tweaking design features to see how quality is impacted. Silver is PLA and black is ASA.
fourjeepin
Well-known member
What are you using as inserts? I need to change mine on the CJ as I frequently have a passenger these days.
First one up is this:
Didn't love the all metal look, liked the chrome-like ring...will see what I think of them and how easy it is to get them to be secure and not rattle or lift out when I don't want them to
fourjeepin
Well-known member
Anyone have a gridfinity bin design they would share? I am a nub with studio but learning. My first grid plate will be done in an hour and I want to start printing some bins tomorrow. I currently have a bunch of Schaller bins which I really like, but they don't make them in as many sizes as my OCD requires.
fourjeepin
Well-known member
Thanks! I need to measure mine and do some more serious searching.
bugnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
All the usual sites are LOADED with these things. I mean, there are thousands. You just have to look around to find what will work for you.
txvwnut
Well-known member
Just thought I'd put this out for anybody looking for a new printer, https://store.anycubic.com/products/kobra-s1-combo?_sasdk=fUnlhbkBhdG9taWNpbmR1c3RyeS5jb20
Ryan wrote a nice review on these and since I'm tired of trying to get my Ender to make a quality print I pulled the trigger on one of these. It's still in the box at the moment but will be getting setup soon, hopefully.
Ryan wrote a nice review on these and since I'm tired of trying to get my Ender to make a quality print I pulled the trigger on one of these. It's still in the box at the moment but will be getting setup soon, hopefully.
duneslider
Well-known member
Anyone had a roll of petg that will not work? I have a roll of sunlu petg in a tan color and I can't get it to print at all. If I am lucky it prints spaghetti, if not spaghetti its a glob stuck to the extruder. I have the settings correct, I have other rolls of sunlu petg that print great. I have used 3 different plates and scrubbed them clean with dawn dish soap. Its like it will not stick to the plate.
Ready to just toss it but it seems super weird and there is a part of me that HAS to make it work! I should just stop wasting my time. Maybe its labelled wrong and it isn't petg, tried running it with PLA settings and no luck there either.
Ready to just toss it but it seems super weird and there is a part of me that HAS to make it work! I should just stop wasting my time. Maybe its labelled wrong and it isn't petg, tried running it with PLA settings and no luck there either.
moab11
Well-known member
Have you dried it out?
duneslider
Well-known member
I don't think so...I should try that. It was fresh out of the package but that doesn't mean it was dry...good thought. I will give that a try.
fourjeepin
Well-known member
Thoughts on quality of filament between Inland brand via Microcenter and SunLu?
Microcenter is a dollar or two cheaper than the SunLu via Amazon. I have only bought from Microcenter so far and am not doing enough volume to buy from school house.
Microcenter is a dollar or two cheaper than the SunLu via Amazon. I have only bought from Microcenter so far and am not doing enough volume to buy from school house.
duneslider
Well-known member
For the most part, I haven't had any issues with any brand and run a lot of sunlu but haven't used the microcenter stuff. (except the one I just posted about).
I need to just buy a bigger supply from school house and stop all the one or two at a time buying I am doing.
I need to just buy a bigger supply from school house and stop all the one or two at a time buying I am doing.
moab11
Well-known member
I've found 90% of printing issues stem from wet filament, only reason I asked about that first.
Yankeefarmer
Well-known member
I won’t even consider printing with PETG before giving it a sauna in my filament dryer. I decided that after seeing that Bambu recommends drying PETG before use. And I use mostly Sunlu.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I dry while printing, but tend to just open the roll and get started. No issues so far.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
I used esun for years without issue and then I printed some of their black and couldn’t get it to print even after it was dried. After several failed prints I finally figured out the filament was undersized, nearly by 10 percent and therefore under extruding. The next roll was the same so I started using hatchbox.
More recently I have used 7 rolls of schoolhouse without a hiccup this past month and it’s only 10$ a roll of you buy a dozen!
duneslider
Well-known member
I've never had an issue just opening one and printing. Very possible it is wet but here in the arid utah desert we don't have much of that thing you all call humidity. Basically, my garage is like a dryer in the summer and the winter is usually even dryer than the summer. I will try running it in the dryer though, that's not a big deal to try.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If it's wet to start, that could cause a problem.
I haven't had problems with sunlu being wet out of the box, but have only run a few kg of their Petg.
I wouldn't wish those S1s on anybody, I have two I haven't touched since last fall because of all the bed leveling, firmware, and AMS issues. I really hate them. I have had and still have tons of different brand printers, those are by far the most frustrating I have ever dealt with in my 15+ years of messing with 3D printing. I built my first printer and currently have 10 printers besides the two S1s, so I know my way around them. I still even have a couple Ender printers and while slow and needy they are so much less irritating.
I just bought two more Flashforge AD5X printers for around $230 each, they are much faster at printing and changing colors during printing, and just work. With the same file on those and my Anycubic S1s the AD5X is about 35% faster, mostly because it doesn't screw around forever when changing colors. But it also prints faster and better. The last 5X I bought I had setup and running a 40 hour print within about 15 mins of opening the box, they just work.
The S1s don't have any solid bed supports on two corners and the beds warp as they heat up. There are aftermarket aluminium bed plus new heater kits you can buy and tons of info about using springs, printed TPU washers, etc under the bed to help get it level. You have to run aftermarket firmware to even see the map of the bed though. If you want repeatable printing, especially with higher temp materials like ASA and ABS, you need to put an aftermarket bed on it. The stock one turns into a taco that is so bad you can easily see it with a ruler or other straightedge. Also read about fixing the strain gauge in the head, it doesn't work correctly because it binds up due to a poor design. This contributes to the bed leveling issue plus destroys a lot of beds and nozzles when the nozzle plants itself in the bed and starts trying to move.
You can print out new rollers for the crappy AMS to help with cardboard and other reels that will jam up using the stock ones. Also there is a nice hinged holder you can print that mounts the AMS on top but lets you pivot it up to open the top cover, super handy.