gasgas17
Well-known member
If I send someone a link to a part I would like to have, can you print it for me and send it to me in Nova Scotia? For a nominal fee of course.
The Everything 3D Printer Thread
- Thread starter BoilermakerFan
- Start date
I think ABS would be the closest for an entry-level type printer. You can print this on entry-level consumer printers with the addition of an enclosure to hold heat.
Check out some videos on Youtube about PLA casting. It may be just what you need.
Bessy
Well-known member
I feel like I have read a few articles suggesting that you can mod Ender style printers to print copper filaments and I suspect other soft metals, but I remain dubious of the cost effectiveness of such an endeavor.
Bottom line is you can spend five figures on a top line industrial printer that may do what you want more or less out of the box, or you may opt to crack a beer or two and tinker on something more custom, spending five figures over a matter of months or years, lol
After a good amount of research, I ordered a Prusa MK3S+ kit. It can print with any filament I would ever want to use with nothing more than a hardened nozzle and maybe a heated enclosure which is no big deal. I'm pretty excited to build and start paying with it.
Bessy
Well-known member
Very nice, you'll be happy with it, I think!
I had been seriously considering getting a prusa mini, but I think the Ender machines are a better fit for my needs and budget. I was tossing around the idea of an Ender 3v2 again, but then the 5 pro came on sale and I looked seriously at it. Then sure enough, I waited too long and both went up in price.
I am hoping that maybe Black Friday/Cyber Monday deals give a little bit of price relief before I make the jump, as this time I am planning on purchasing before the tax return cheque comes in.
Again, congratulations on your purchase! What are you going to print first?
Congrats! Did you go for the kit or a pre-assembled unit?
If budget allows I think Prusa is a great entry to the world as they're basically fully upgraded and so dang consistent it seems to eliminate the early struggles many have. Nothing against the Ender machines, they are great and the Creality CR6 max is probably my next addition, just a lot of the upgrades many do on Enders or Creality are already in a Prusa so total cost of ownership is very comparable. Now If they would just release the long rumored Prusa XL I'd be a happy and slightly poorer camper!
Thanks! The first print will probably be a spacer/gasket that I can't easily buy. It needs to be a specific thickness, and I can't seem to find any material that will work and be relatively easy to cut out. Hopefully there's an appropriate filament.
Thank you. I went for the kit. Basically everyone recommends the kit so you have a good understanding of how the printer works. I pretty much agree. Every time I buy something new, I usually take it apart anyway to get to know it! I already have a few mods planned for it (nylock bed leveling and granite base).
I'm debating putting it on a wall-mounted shelf to isolate it from floor-borne vibrations. This is popular with high end turntables, so I think it should work for a 3D printer, too. The floors in my house bounce a lot. Does anyone do this? I haven't seen anyone do this with a printer specifically to cut down on vibrations.
I agree with the kit...the instructions are top notch, the kit is well done and I have a much better understanding of how it works as a result. Plus it saves ya a couple bucks.
As to wall vs floor mounted most are on cabinets or tables setting on the floor. Mine is currently on a wall mounted shelf anchored to the foundation but that's purely coincidence and not due to any perceived benefit. I have some feet from Isolate It on mine and then it sits on your basic 16" x 16" concrete paver for added mass...I haven't noticed any change in quality on the paver but noise is reduced significantly.
As to wall vs floor mounted most are on cabinets or tables setting on the floor. Mine is currently on a wall mounted shelf anchored to the foundation but that's purely coincidence and not due to any perceived benefit. I have some feet from Isolate It on mine and then it sits on your basic 16" x 16" concrete paver for added mass...I haven't noticed any change in quality on the paver but noise is reduced significantly.
So are you decoupling/isolating the printer from the paver then? I had planned on coupling the printer to a paver and then isolating the paver from the table or shelf.
kazlx
Well-known member
You’ll love the Prusa. It’s a great machine. I put mine together and it was pretty easy. The directions and packaging are some of the best I’ve ever seen. Just printed some organizers for Bondhus T handles today. 
penright
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Wanted to measure the thickness of some rotors before turning. All I had was a caliper and could not reach into groves. 3D printer these boots for the end. I believed it is accurate enough for what I am wanting to do. More accurate than stretching a tape and eyeballing it. 
EDIT: Here is a like to it in Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5138878. I did it in Fusion 360 and included it if you need to tweak the sizes.
EDIT: Here is a like to it in Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5138878. I did it in Fusion 360 and included it if you need to tweak the sizes.
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vavet
Well-known member
That's pretty slick! I always try to tell people that the more you use a 3DP, the more uses you'll find for one. This is a great example of that.Wanted to measure the thickness of some rotors before turning. All I had was a caliper and could not reach into groves. 3D printer these boots for the end. I believed it is accurate enough for what I am wanting to do. More accurate than stretching a tape and eyeballing it.
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
As a joke... I printed a "BitCoin"... after I printed it... I realized it's freaking perfect for scratching lottery tickets. I printed about 20 of them to leave at the local store I get rub offs from. I also decided to print them in precious metal filaments. Relatively cheap joke played on others.
nicholam77
Well-known member
Great thread!
I've just started to dip my toes in this world with an Ender 3 v2. Unfortunately I don't have the CAD skills, but have been watching a lot of YouTube
First "successful" shop project is a custom flip stop for my MFT (track saw station) cross-cut fence:
Pretty excited about the possibilities with this!
I've just started to dip my toes in this world with an Ender 3 v2. Unfortunately I don't have the CAD skills, but have been watching a lot of YouTube
First "successful" shop project is a custom flip stop for my MFT (track saw station) cross-cut fence:
Pretty excited about the possibilities with this!
Bessy
Well-known member
Official member of the multiple printers club! Took me just under three hours to unbox, assemble and print a calibration cube. The x and y are oversized .02 to .06mm for a 20mm cube, but the z is about .2 long. This is completely bone stock at this point.
A few prints to get done before Christmas, and then I'll start making some printer mods for it and the 5+. Is anyone else printing anything cool for the holidays?
A few prints to get done before Christmas, and then I'll start making some printer mods for it and the 5+. Is anyone else printing anything cool for the holidays?
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kazlx
Well-known member
I already pre-ordered the double head version. My dad ordered the 5 head.
Bessy
Well-known member
I want one, but I think two printers in less than one year is probably more than enough since they only cost me money so far (still less than that Prusa). I got the new bed springs installed and the bed levelled this evening.
I bought new Capricorn tubing and an extruder, but ultimately haven't installed them yet. I had a leftover cutoff of Capricorn tubing from when I swapped the tubing on the Ender 5, and though it was a tad shorter than the piece I took off the printer, the print head trammed fully without it causing any issues, so we'll see how it goes for now.
Working on Christmas gifts now on the 3v2 and will clean up the 5+ tomorrow to start more Christmas gifts on that one (can you sense a theme this Christmas?)
I bought new Capricorn tubing and an extruder, but ultimately haven't installed them yet. I had a leftover cutoff of Capricorn tubing from when I swapped the tubing on the Ender 5, and though it was a tad shorter than the piece I took off the printer, the print head trammed fully without it causing any issues, so we'll see how it goes for now.
Working on Christmas gifts now on the 3v2 and will clean up the 5+ tomorrow to start more Christmas gifts on that one (can you sense a theme this Christmas?)
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My MK3S+ shipped in five business days after ordering, which is the upper end of their estimate at the time of ordering. Now, their website says that there's a leadtime of 7-10 days. Looks like they're starting to get backed up due to the impending holiday. If you're looking to get one for Christmas, I'd order it now.
Glad I'm not the only one around here with 1 on order! Also ordered with 2 tool heads, an updated document I got emailed on this afternoon says "Shipping within a week of 2/7/2022"!!!!!
banjopete
Well-known member
I've been dealing with some classic underextrusion issues with my ender 3 recently.
Frustrating but some typical 3d printing stuff to deal with. I've made a number of the normal upgrades to the bowden tube, metal extruder, and I've also jumped up to the larger .6mm nozzle. I'm making a tramming tool for my cnc router as I'm sure someone will ask.
I think I've got through some of the challenges but I've just loaded up the latest beta of the prusaslicer, and have found what appear to be better printer and filament settings for my ender 3.
The print above was the before print, you can see the classic underextrusion signs along the walls, not tragic by any means but definitely underextruded. This print took 7hrs, with the tweaks and adjustments I did this morning I got the slicer time down to just under 3hrs to take better advantage of that fat nozzle. The print seems to be going much better. I know I'm not the first to deal with the extrusion problems as I'm pretty sure this is the one known achilles heel of this great inexpensive printer. I'll report back once the next print is done.
Frustrating but some typical 3d printing stuff to deal with. I've made a number of the normal upgrades to the bowden tube, metal extruder, and I've also jumped up to the larger .6mm nozzle. I'm making a tramming tool for my cnc router as I'm sure someone will ask.
I think I've got through some of the challenges but I've just loaded up the latest beta of the prusaslicer, and have found what appear to be better printer and filament settings for my ender 3.
The print above was the before print, you can see the classic underextrusion signs along the walls, not tragic by any means but definitely underextruded. This print took 7hrs, with the tweaks and adjustments I did this morning I got the slicer time down to just under 3hrs to take better advantage of that fat nozzle. The print seems to be going much better. I know I'm not the first to deal with the extrusion problems as I'm pretty sure this is the one known achilles heel of this great inexpensive printer. I'll report back once the next print is done.
banjopete
Well-known member
The cost of shipping may be prohibitive through the forum unless someone local jumps in. You can probably find someone locally that can do it, I know here in Edmonton for example we have 3d printers in many of our public libraries, and you might have a maker space that has one too. There are also online printing services you can look at.
For the more personal touch through the forum here I could help you out but like I said depending how how big you're talking about for parts, the shipping could eat into what you're expecting to pay. @Bessy is closer to you, and has two printers now too!
Good luck.I have been looking for this very thing. Could you please share the .stl kazlx?
kazlx
Well-known member
Uploaded them to Thingiverse if anyone wants them. All three SAE, Metric and Torx and mirrored them so theres a left and a right mount direction.
Bonhus T Handle Allen Wrench Side Mount Racks by jkaslowski
Brackets for all 3 Bondhus T Handle hex wrench sets, the standard, metric and torx. These are made to mount to the side of a workbench and you can drop the wrenches in from the top. Saves quite a bit of space compared to the desk stands that they come with.
www.thingiverse.com
Fantastic! Thanks so much.Uploaded them to Thingiverse if anyone wants them. All three SAE, Metric and Torx and mirrored them so theres a left and a right mount direction.
Bonhus T Handle Allen Wrench Side Mount Racks by jkaslowski
Brackets for all 3 Bondhus T Handle hex wrench sets, the standard, metric and torx. These are made to mount to the side of a workbench and you can drop the wrenches in from the top. Saves quite a bit of space compared to the desk stands that they come with.
slodat
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I ordered the two head assembled.
draco_1967
Well-known member
I started to get some underextrusion happening on my E3v2 also. I had ordered the upgrade pack with bed springs, Capricorn tubing, and the metal extruder parts. I finally installed the metal extruder parts, and noticed my extruder wheel had quite a bit of wear on it after 3-4 spools of filament (mostly PLA, a little PETG). The wheel would often slip on the filament when I turned the knob by hand. The new extruder wheel seems to have solved the problem for now. I will make sure to have a few extras on hand to swap out every so often.I've been dealing with some classic underextrusion issues with my ender 3 recently.
Frustrating but some typical 3d printing stuff to deal with. I've made a number of the normal upgrades to the bowden tube, metal extruder, and I've also jumped up to the larger .6mm nozzle. I'm making a tramming tool for my cnc router as I'm sure someone will ask.
I think I've got through some of the challenges but I've just loaded up the latest beta of the prusaslicer, and have found what appear to be better printer and filament settings for my ender 3.
The print above was the before print, you can see the classic underextrusion signs along the walls, not tragic by any means but definitely underextruded. This print took 7hrs, with the tweaks and adjustments I did this morning I got the slicer time down to just under 3hrs to take better advantage of that fat nozzle. The print seems to be going much better. I know I'm not the first to deal with the extrusion problems as I'm pretty sure this is the one known achilles heel of this great inexpensive printer. I'll report back once the next print is done.
purplezr2
Well-known member
Not sure if anyone said yes, but I possibly can depending on what it is, and what material you want. I'm in the states, so shipping will be a bit more..
Working on the car this weekend I needed a way to turn several T-30 head bolts in a confined space. The ratcheting thumb wheels weren't ratcheting and to turn them by resetting my grip was tedious. I remembered how some cheap socket sets come with thin plastic thumbwheels for exactly this purpose where you grip the ratchet in your hand and rotate the wheel with your thumb and finger. I never really cared for them but it's just what I needed here. So 3D printer to the rescue. Surprisingly (or not) couldn't find any on Thingiverse. Printed a few of each size for extras...and uploaded to Thingiverse too https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5144105
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Bessy
Well-known member
I sent a PM to Gas, but haven't received a response. I'm in Ontario as Banjo Pete mentioned, but by all means I'm not going to stand in the way of anyone else who has capacity and experience. I'm still very much a novice.
Bessy
Well-known member
Don't know that I need them right now, but I'd love to collect them in thingiverse for the next time I need one! Mind sharing the link, please?Working on the car this weekend I needed a way to turn several T-30 head bolts in a confined space. The ratcheting thumb wheels weren't ratcheting and to turn them by resetting my grip was tedious. I remembered how some cheap socket sets come with thin plastic thumbwheels for exactly this purpose where you grip the ratchet in your hand and rotate the wheel with your thumb and finger. I never really cared for them but it's just what I needed here. So 3D printer to the rescue. Surprisingly (or not) couldn't find any on Thingiverse. Printed a few of each size for extras...and uploaded to Thingiverse too.
Bad Habit
Well-known member
I knew I shouldn't have started following this thread...haven't pulled the trigger on anything yet, but I'm sure I'll only hold out for so long. In the meantime, trying to learn Fusion360. Figure I won't buy until I can improve to the point of being just crappy at it.
cycle61
Well-known member
Got partway through building my Prusa i3 tonight. A coworker suggests that buying the pre-assembled version is the way to go but I'm fairly certain he's wrong. This is my first 3d printer and I'm grateful for the deep dive into how the darn thing actually goes together.
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kazlx
Well-known member
The self assembly version is definitely the way to go so you can understand how it goes together, especially if you aren't very familiar with CNC parts. The Prusa is an excellent machine and I don't think I've ever assembled anything with better instructions. Oh and Haribo bears...
cycle61
Well-known member
I gave the bears to my 22yo roommate before realizing they're a critical part of the assembly procedure.
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I thought that too... but.
I found a huge library of items to print online. There are several sites but they pretty much are searchable from google. For example 3D Printed Battery Holders... gives you a good selection.
I printed for weeks before I came across ideas on how to create unique for me things. Most of the things I have created "Started with" an existing design that I downloaded from the web.
Learning to "adjust" the size of things with "%" settings in your slicer opened up a world of designs for me.