The Everything 3D Printer Thread

[MadeByMiller]

I used to run into this on my CR10... It'd be easier on an ender because of the single lead screw configuration.

Think of where the extruder is - it's on the X axis carriage - so any downward force you're skipping the Z axis leadscrew- and that stock extruder is a pain in the **** to feed...

I considered the Z axis motor skipping but have no experience outside of my Prusa to lean on. Maybe could test this by resuming a paused print without replacing the filament?

 

[Keyblazer]

Here is the print from the Longer printer.


You can see where the nozzle ploughed in here.


It’s new to Me just yesterday so I’m not sure what happened.
In fact, I ran a Benchy this morning and it knocked it off the bed too during the print.

 

[AndyL]

I've just switched to not relying on the runout sensor (and put a direct drive extruder on so the pita extruder isn't in the equation)

That seems like you have an issue in Z to find. Might check with the ender groups it's likely a common issue.

 

[christopher]

This is my Wanhao i3 setup

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

very nice setup - good for maintaining temps for ABS

 

[christopher]

part of my work-work is designing and creating fixtures to hold our products for testing during manufacturing. This fixture holds a single-board computer plus radios. I have 6 3D printers. A Stacker S4 4-extruder beast, 2 Creality CR10-S's, 2 Creality CR10-S4's (bigger envelope), and one ofthe original Formlabs SLA printers as they came out of crowd-funding site 'Kickstarter', called the Form-1.
Here's a fixture done on the CR10-S that is in Carbon Fiber filled PETG:
(it actually holds two fixtures here, because the systems test each other in parallel)
Probably not obvious here, but closing the top part plugs in all connections, and fires up the unit as it is POE powered, and boots it over the network via tftp.

 

[MadeByMiller]

Here is the print from the Longer printer.


You can see where the nozzle ploughed in here.


It’s new to Me just yesterday so I’m not sure what happened.
In fact, I ran a Benchy this morning and it knocked it off the bed too during the print.

Yeah, this issue seems outside of any expertise that I may have. Based on those results, I wouldn't entirely rule out an over-extrusion issue, but the black part clearly shows the nozzle much deeper dug into the part in spots than would be over-extrusion related. I would dive into the manufacturer specific messaging boards as suggested earlier.

 

[MadeByMiller]

part of my work-work is designing and creating fixtures to hold our products for testing during manufacturing. This fixture holds a single-board computer plus radios. I have 6 3D printers. A Stacker S4 4-extruder beast, 2 Creality CR10-S's, 2 Creality CR10-S4's (bigger envelope), and one ofthe original Formlabs SLA printers as they came out of crowd-funding site 'Kickstarter', called the Form-1.
Here's a fixture done on the CR10-S that is in Carbon Fiber filled PETG:
(it actually holds two fixtures here, because the systems test each other in parallel)
Probably not obvious here, but closing the top part plugs in all connections, and fires up the unit as it is POE powered, and boots it over the network via tftp.

This is really cool and impressive! Great job, I'd love to see anything else you'd be willing to share, and I'd suggest that you start a thread of your own to show off your work!

 

[Keyblazer]

Yes, beyond my current skill set too…
But here is some more info that hopefully someone here that knows what’s going on.
In an attempt to understand and show what’s going on.

Yesterday I printed some box cutter blade holders.
The parts printed on the Ender 3 are neat, tight, and functional.




The ones coming off the new to me, Longer LK5 Pro are junk. The blade won’t fit in, let alone the blade support.
Here are the results of printing the same part, with the two different filaments on each printer.
Left parts are from the Longer, and the right from the Ender.



As a side note, the Ender parts pop off the plate easily and in fact I have to use a brim to keep them on, the Longer parts are a bear to remove with just a skirt!

People have mentioned “Over-Extrusion” maybe being the issue with the Longer.. but I don’t know how to fix that… is it a setting on the machine or on the slicer?
I’m using Cura.
I’m really tempted to return this Longer LK5, and get something else if it gonna be a problem child.

 

[Keyblazer]

I found “Nozzle Flow Rate” in the Tuning section of the Printer.
Turned it down 10%, to 90% and am running a test piece to see if that helps.

 

[christopher]

This is really cool and impressive! Great job, I'd love to see anything else you'd be willing to share, and I'd suggest that you start a thread of your own to show off your work!

Thank you very much.

 

[AndyL]

People have mentioned “Over-Extrusion” maybe being the issue with the Longer.. but I don’t know how to fix that… is it a setting on the machine or on the slicer?

https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/

 

[Keyblazer]

Thanks.
I did this test yesterday.
Part on the right is off my Ender.
Parts on the left are off the Longer.
From top down with nozzle flow adjusted.
100%
90%
80%
70%


In short, the print quality is horrible in all of them.
Not just that, but the parts are useless.. the Utility blade won’t even fit in the part, whereas the Ender part fits together perfectly.
I’m NOT impressed with it.
I’d be pleased for any input on what is wrong with this printer?
If I can’t get a resolution soon, it will go back in it box and get returned.
I’d be open to suggestions for a larger printer that will get my next projects done. 300x300x300 or larger?

 

[nicholam77]

Made a quick Thingiverse tray for my Tekton hook and pick set.

 

[draco_1967]

T

Thanks.
I did this test yesterday.
Part on the right is off my Ender.
Parts on the left are off the Longer.
From top down with nozzle flow adjusted.
100%
90%
80%
70%


In short, the print quality is horrible in all of them.
Not just that, but the parts are useless.. the Utility blade won’t even fit in the part, whereas the Ender part fits together perfectly.
I’m NOT impressed with it.
I’d be pleased for any input on what is wrong with this printer?
If I can’t get a resolution soon, it will go back in it box and get returned.
I’d be open to suggestions for a larger printer that will get my next projects done. 300x300x300 or larger?

This may be a dumb question, but are you using a gcode file that is sliced for that printer (and not the same file you are printing on the Ender)?

You might need to run some calibration prints to get the Longer dialed in: https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/top-ten-prints-to-calibrate-your-3d-printer

 

[Keyblazer]

T

This may be a dumb question, but are you using a gcode file that is sliced for that printer (and not the same file you are printing on the Ender)?

You might need to run some calibration prints to get the Longer dialed in: https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/top-ten-prints-to-calibrate-your-3d-printer

Good Question...
I am a Dumb Noob...
So, I selected the new Printer in Cura... it has the Longer LK5 in the options...
Then I sliced the file with it on the LK5 bed, and outputted it to the SD card that went right into the Longer...

Did I do it right?

 

[nickelTwin]

I would try swapping the filament on the two printers and see how it prints.

 

[draco_1967]

Good Question...
I am a Dumb Noob...
So, I selected the new Printer in Cura... it has the Longer LK5 in the options...
Then I sliced the file with it on the LK5 bed, and outputted it to the SD card that went right into the Longer...

Did I do it right?

Yep, that sounds right. I'm still fairly new too. I just wanted to eliminate that as a possible problem.

Trying different filaments may help, but it sounds like the calibration is off. If the part dimensions are not to spec, then the travel on each axis likely needs some calibration, like you did with the extrusion.
This guide is really helpful for diagnosing and fixing common printer issues: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

 

[Keyblazer]

Yup, did that...
Same **** result regardless of what filament I put in the Longer...
See pic below.same filaments swapped back and forth, LH is Longer, RH is Ender.

 

[christopher]

Thanks.
I did this test yesterday.
Part on the right is off my Ender.
Parts on the left are off the Longer.
From top down with nozzle flow adjusted.
100%
90%
80%
70%


In short, the print quality is horrible in all of them.
Not just that, but the parts are useless.. the Utility blade won’t even fit in the part, whereas the Ender part fits together perfectly.
I’m NOT impressed with it.
I’d be pleased for any input on what is wrong with this printer?
If I can’t get a resolution soon, it will go back in it box and get returned.
I’d be open to suggestions for a larger printer that will get my next projects done. 300x300x300 or larger?

you need to calibrate the printer's extrusion, and you need to dial in the printer before printing real stuff by printing a calibration object that lets you measure if your scales are right as well as if your extruder is pushing the correct amount of filament. thingaverse has tons of calibration objects of all manner and type, and your printer vendor's site will have instructions on how to set various stored settings, like extrusion amount. Start there and get it dialed in with small throwaway objects, so you don't get frustrated and waste time trying to jump directly into the things you want to print. You should also validate nozzle temp if you have a way to do that. A laser thermometer is a good tool for that.

 

[Keyblazer]

I did a calibration test... and it looked horrible too, and was nowhere near.
I probably invested 10 hours into the longer trying to figure out what it cant perform as my Ender does....
Rightly or wrongly, I completely lost all confidence in this printer to do a decent job....
So, today, it went back in its box and was returned... its already gone.

I ordered a Ender 5 plus to replace it, and that will be here Saturday..
I appreciate all the input!

 

[jayz66ragtop]

Been lurking here for a bit just because I didn't have much to contribute until now. Wife is a huge Rush fan and Bday was coming up. Been looking around for something to try out the printer that was not for me.

I got the coasters from Thingiverse unchanged. The holder on the other hand, was originally a solid one sided "trophy" about two inches thick and five inches tall. Took on learning Fusion 360 so I could modify it. All told I have waaaaay too many hours into it but I think it turned out fantastic. All printed in PLA only because I bought glow in the dark PLA and thought it would be cool to print the white part so it glowed. And yes, I know the holder needs to be cleaned up a little bit.

Printer - Bambu X1 Carbon with MLS

I got in on the Kickstarter for the printer and it is amazing. So simple to use for a beginner but it was EXPENSIVE compared to some of the other printers.

 

[kppolich]

Slowly getting some things up in the room under the stairs. Need to find a better solution for the circular saw. 7 1/2 FUEL version is a bit bigger than the original plan.

 

[Black300zx]

I pulled the trigger on an Ender 3 Max Neo last week and it arrived last night. Assembled, adjusted, and leveled it in about 30 minutes this morning and then printed the rabbit file that came loaded on it without a hiccup. It's much quieter than the Prusa Minis that we have at work.

Happy so far. Now to get it off the floor and give it a home

 

[Chilly178]

Picked up a new to me millermatic 250 and wasn't a fan of just wrapping the leads around the front handle so made up some lead hangers out of black PETG. All factory holes so I didn't have to break out the drill

Threw in a helmet holder for the bottle, should have made the hooks for it a hair longer, but it fits and works well

Could you share the file?

 

[Jswain]

Could you share the file?

Yessir I can, I will have to wait until I get back home on the 30th and I will put it on thingiverse then link it here.

 

[christopher]

Been lurking here for a bit just because I didn't have much to contribute until now. Wife is a huge Rush fan and Bday was coming up. Been looking around for something to try out the printer that was not for me.

I got the coasters from Thingiverse unchanged. The holder on the other hand, was originally a solid one sided "trophy" about two inches thick and five inches tall. Took on learning Fusion 360 so I could modify it. All told I have waaaaay too many hours into it but I think it turned out fantastic. All printed in PLA only because I bought glow in the dark PLA and thought it would be cool to print the white part so it glowed. And yes, I know the holder needs to be cleaned up a little bit.

Printer - Bambu X1 Carbon with MLS

I got in on the Kickstarter for the printer and it is amazing. So simple to use for a beginner but it was EXPENSIVE compared to some of the other printers.

How did you do the multiple colors?

 

[Poolshark314]

How did you do the multiple colors?

You change the filament at specific layer numbers. Depending on your printer and firmware, it would require different commands like M600

 

[MadeByMiller]

How did you do the multiple colors?

You change the filament at specific layer numbers. Depending on your printer and firmware, it would require different commands like M600

Hope the OP doesn't mind me answering for him, but the Bambu X1 printer he has is capable of printing multiple filament colors/materials within the same layer. It's a pretty cool looking machine!

 

[Poolshark314]

Hope the OP doesn't mind me answering for him, but the Bambu X1 printer he has is capable of printing multiple filament colors/materials within the same layer. It's a pretty cool looking machine!

Yeah a multi-extruder printer is very cool!

But for us peasants, layer changes it is lol

 

[Cruzan80]

Hope the OP doesn't mind me answering for him, but the Bambu X1 printer he has is capable of printing multiple filament colors/materials within the same layer. It's a pretty cool looking machine!

The biggest issue I have is getting the multi extruder files aligned correctly when making them (CAD Side) Any tips? All of the other multi-extrudes I have done are prebuilt versions that autoload together. Or is it as simple as interlocking parts in CAD, and then working the alignment in the slicer?

 

[MadeByMiller]

The biggest issue I have is getting the multi extruder files aligned correctly when making them (CAD Side) Any tips? All of the other multi-extrudes I have done are prebuilt versions that autoload together. Or is it as simple as interlocking parts in CAD, and then working the alignment in the slicer?

Maybe @jayz66ragtop could help you with that since he's the one who posted the parts he printed on his Bambu X1. I don't have any experience with a multi extruder printer. As far as creating an object in CAD that you want to be a single part but with multiple filament types, I would think that you can model it as a single component but with each filament type as it's own body, and then export the component with the bodies assembled into your slicer. I've done something similar in Prusaslicer, and in it you can separate the mesh by Objects or Parts to help make changes to individual parts of the mesh. Perhaps it's a similar procedure for what you're trying to do, I'm really ignorant though to it unfortunately.

 

[Cruzan80]

Thanks. Have the Cad side down (teach OnShape to.middle schoolers, and use Solidworks when I need the extra power). So Component/mulit-body/multi-part isnt an issue (can build whatever version I need). Cura is currently my slicer of choice, for a Flashforge 2-extruder printer. The las time I used both sides to extrude was loading them into Replicator G (to give an idea of how far back). Usually just use the pause at Z-height, but would be nice to know.

 

[christopher]

create an assembly of the parts in SW, all mated where you want them. Then save the assembly as .STL. This will save all the parts as separate STL files, and keep all of their relative coordinates intact. Pull them all into the slicer at once (I use Simplify 3D), but it should all work with Cura as well. To move them around the bed, you'll want to move them all in unison. Assign the files to the particular extruder you want.

 

[vwpieces]

bunch of hose adaptors for tools with dumb size ports. Made 2 sets for small & big shopvac hose. Also not pictured are some 2.5in couplers and an adapter for the Bauer cyclone.

 

[christopher]

bunch of hose adaptors for tools with dumb size ports. Made 2 sets for small & big shopvac hose. Also not pictured are some 2.5in couplers and an adapter for the Bauer cyclone.

Here's a spherically articulating schnozzle I made in a single go with a very tiny gap between the parts. it printed fine and with a slight twist broke free and now rotates freely. When the vacuum is off, it falls slack, but when on it can be positioned anywhere it can aim and stays there. I can dig up the STL if anyone is interested. Got the hose from McMaster-Carr (I love that place!)

 

[Monza Harry]

Jay you have a keeper there with your woman, as most women I know aren't fans of one of the, if not the greatest band ever! I don't see the flaws you are referring to I'd be proud as #e!! to show that off! Especially as a custom gift someone made for me, your spouse will be too I am sure! Looks Great! Harry

 

[Keyblazer]

My Longer LK5 is gone, and the Ender 5 Plus arrived, and is up and running... will post in a bit..

But I ran into an issue...
None of the files I loaded onto the SD card would read...

I found out that there is an issue with newer Creality printers and reading Prints with titles longer than 15 characters..
Renamed the files and it working now...

More info here...

Ender 5 Plus doesn't read files installed on the micro-SD card

Just got my new Ender 5 Plus printer. Have been really happy with my Ender 5 for the past year so thought an upgrade to the 5 Plus was going to be a great thing. Problem I am having is the CURA Ender 5 Plus files will not appear on the Ender 5 Plus screen after the micro-SD card is installed. I...

www.thingiverse.com

 

[ArcReactorKC]

I've been debating on buying a Bumbu, or just adding a Pallete pro 3 to my big corexy. The add on is cheaper, but I have heard much more finnicky. I've been spending countless hours fine tuning the marlin config on that machine as it is.

 

[WhoWhatNow]

Here's a spherically articulating schnozzle I made in a single go with a very tiny gap between the parts. it printed fine and with a slight twist broke free and now rotates freely. When the vacuum is off, it falls slack, but when on it can be positioned anywhere it can aim and stays there. I can dig up the STL if anyone is interested. Got the hose from McMaster-Carr (I love that place!)

Very nice. I would be interested in the STL. Thanks!

 

[zanyad]

Here's a spherically articulating schnozzle I made in a single go with a very tiny gap between the parts. it printed fine and with a slight twist broke free and now rotates freely. When the vacuum is off, it falls slack, but when on it can be positioned anywhere it can aim and stays there. I can dig up the STL if anyone is interested. Got the hose from McMaster-Carr (I love that place!)

Very nice. I would be interested in the STL. Thanks!

Please add me to the list!