OP
Hephaestus29
Well-known member
Looks nice and very similar to The Paulding Hammers.
The Machine Work Thread
- Thread starter Hephaestus29
- Start date
longlivepunk
Well-known member
Haha Hey Bill, I'll get some measurements for you this week. I made it all from scrap we had lying around and just flying by the seat of my pants, so can't remember all the numbers and some of them might not make a whole lot of sense because I was limited to the amount of material I had to take off to make the scrap clean up nicely and such.
As for the handle to head, I did a shrink-fit, so the pin of the handle is actually about 0.0015" - 0.002" bigger than the hole in the head. I drilled then reamed the hole for the head based on the reamer size we had, turned the handle to match, then stuck the handle in the freezer over night. That made the material shrink slightly, then in the morning I heated up the head with a propane torch and they slipped together without even needing a press! That's it! Simple, but it will NEVER come apart or slip.
Hey thanks! I looked up the Paulding Hammer after seeing your comment and yeah, I remember seeing that hammer sometime ago and it was generally what I had in my head when I was making this.
Thought I'd also quickly show off a couple of other things I made recently. Again, sorry for the lousy pictures.
First is a coffee tamper. I have a friend who is crazy about his coffee and has a very nice Canadian made tamper: the one on the left, which is made by Reg Barber who does VERY nice work. So for fun while I was in school and practicing G-code on a CNC I made him the one on the right. Sadly we didn't have any stainless or big enough aluminum, so I had to get the base powder-coated. Not sure if he'll use it much but he made us each a damn-good coffee and with his comments on it I'll probably make him another in the future out of a better material. Maybe even with a brass handle if he's reeeeeeeeally nice to me...https://scontent-sea1-1.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/10885617_10153449795194581_2831577129025359433_n.jpg?oh=3d674edb3f08e08038e49d5d450626f1&oe=565304C5
And next is something for me. I was a bike mechanic for a long time, trained at UBI in Ashland, Oregon and I don't have an at home bike repair stand! Luckily a friend gave me a nice Park Tools clamp that needed a repair, and I bought the holder for it before I started as a machinist. At the shop I occasionally help at we have a decent system to have the head move up and down and rotate horizontally, but I knew I could do better, so I made the back half of the blue part in the photo (where the green arrow is pointing). It looks very simple, but the cylinder is turned and bored to a specific size, the back of the holder got milled to match the cylinder, and the front of the clamp flanges got milled to match as well. The flanges were actually one piece of steel that I TIG welded onto the cylinder, and then I put the cut in to make it a split-clamp. Finally I welded on the holder and got it powder-coated.
https://scontent-sea1-1.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/11540951_10153449844694581_587165390124989293_n.jpg?oh=cd7e299068441c1e95b7fe4e2c299342&oe=56579F5F
I have an aluminum post that the cylinder will slip over, and the repair stand will be able to be installed in a hitch receiver to make my life easier at home, as well as next time I help out at a cycling event.
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TauntDevil
Well-known member
So, I dont really have anything to show because everything I have made is at the shop I help out at and is made to be used right after (plus, nothing anywhere near as amazing as whats on here. Only actually started machining about 7 months ago. Still tons to learn).
However, I do have a question, I was wondering how one may use a mill to... drill? mmm.. Mill out a curve into a plate?
Is there a bit possibly that is shaped this way that I can purchase?
We have manual machines, no CNC. I have only used what we have and both my friend who is the owner and I learned at the same time as I was there when he got the machines.
Would normally just use a hole saw and then just cut the plate in half but this is a 2ft long plate and is already the size we need. Just need this cut into it.
I plan on getting my own soon if I can get some small jobs to afford them though nothing major, basically a smaller lathe and a grizzly mill to be on the low cost and less space taken. (Sorry)
Thank you in advance!
However, I do have a question, I was wondering how one may use a mill to... drill? mmm.. Mill out a curve into a plate?
Is there a bit possibly that is shaped this way that I can purchase?
We have manual machines, no CNC. I have only used what we have and both my friend who is the owner and I learned at the same time as I was there when he got the machines.
Would normally just use a hole saw and then just cut the plate in half but this is a 2ft long plate and is already the size we need. Just need this cut into it.
I plan on getting my own soon if I can get some small jobs to afford them though nothing major, basically a smaller lathe and a grizzly mill to be on the low cost and less space taken. (Sorry)
Thank you in advance!
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
Depends on the dimensions. That half-round hole was milled in 2" steel plate using a boring head, doing them in pairs.
TauntDevil
Well-known member
I appreciate the answers. So there are mill bits that are rounded on the ends?
The first plate needs a 1/2" concave and the second plates that are a lot smaller (Only about 7 inches) need a 1 1/2" concave.
All in mild steel blocks.
Also, sorry that I didn't ask in the previous post. Was trying to stuff everything in it but forgot about this.
What do you guys think about the Mill/Lathe combo machines? To me, they look like when using the mill part of them, it wont do so well as the table may not hold the part as good, etc but would be awesome if they are good because of again, space issue. (Moving soon and want one in my garage)
The first plate needs a 1/2" concave and the second plates that are a lot smaller (Only about 7 inches) need a 1 1/2" concave.
All in mild steel blocks.
Also, sorry that I didn't ask in the previous post. Was trying to stuff everything in it but forgot about this.
What do you guys think about the Mill/Lathe combo machines? To me, they look like when using the mill part of them, it wont do so well as the table may not hold the part as good, etc but would be awesome if they are good because of again, space issue. (Moving soon and want one in my garage)
wyo george
Well-known member
This is just my opinion, but the combo machines remind me of an el camino. They **** as a car and they **** as a truck, but they can kinda serve in both capacities if you're not too picky.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Actually I quite like the El Camino's--had a '68.
Assuming you mean 1/2" radius, and sticking with just a mill, a 1" drill bit could very easily produce it by leaving the plate over-size until the hole is drilled. Or by using a 1" end mill or hole saw. The 1-1/2" radius could be produced using a hole saw or boring bar/head. Of course you could also do it using a straight end mill and rotary table.
You don't need a bull-nosed end mill for either size.
Assuming you mean 1/2" radius, and sticking with just a mill, a 1" drill bit could very easily produce it by leaving the plate over-size until the hole is drilled. Or by using a 1" end mill or hole saw. The 1-1/2" radius could be produced using a hole saw or boring bar/head. Of course you could also do it using a straight end mill and rotary table.
You don't need a bull-nosed end mill for either size.
TauntDevil
Well-known member
Actually I quite like the El Camino's--had a '68.
Assuming you mean 1/2" radius, and sticking with just a mill, a 1" drill bit could very easily produce it by leaving the plate over-size until the hole is drilled. Or by using a 1" end mill or hole saw. The 1-1/2" radius could be produced using a hole saw or boring bar/head. Of course you could also do it using a straight end mill and rotary table.
You don't need a bull-nosed end mill for either size.
I like them as well.
Correct about the radius though wouldn't a 1" make the radius shallow rather than a perfect 1/2"?
In order to use a hole saw or what not, would need a 2ft pole to be able to go that far which I would think would be unbalanced and cause more issue no?
I appreciate the recommendation, just seems that it may not work or I may not understand fully. We do have a lathe as well that we can use. I see that people are putting the lathe shafts (Not sure correct terms for all this. I apologize.) in the motor end and having the part held where the shaft normally goes.
may work for the smaller projects.
wyo george
Well-known member
Actually I quite like the El Camino's--had a '68.
Assuming you mean 1/2" radius, and sticking with just a mill, a 1" drill bit could very easily produce it by leaving the plate over-size until the hole is drilled. Or by using a 1" end mill or hole saw. The 1-1/2" radius could be produced using a hole saw or boring bar/head. Of course you could also do it using a straight end mill and rotary table.
You don't need a bull-nosed end mill for either size.
I like Elky's too, but that wasn't really the point
OP
Hephaestus29
Well-known member
I saw a picture where someone had
mounted a swingarm on their mill and
then clamped the vise jaws onto it to
swing it out of the way.
I've been thinking about this myself.
I had originally thought about building
a cart for most of the stuff, but now
i'm thinking I might attach a swingarm
for the rotary table and vise and just
swap them over when I need to.
I'm kind of limited on space is the
reason for not building a cart but I also
don't want my tools so close that chips
are being thrown all over them.
Any thoughts. ?
mounted a swingarm on their mill and
then clamped the vise jaws onto it to
swing it out of the way.
I've been thinking about this myself.
I had originally thought about building
a cart for most of the stuff, but now
i'm thinking I might attach a swingarm
for the rotary table and vise and just
swap them over when I need to.
I'm kind of limited on space is the
reason for not building a cart but I also
don't want my tools so close that chips
are being thrown all over them.
Any thoughts. ?
ez-duzit
Well-known member
29--sounds good. this is how I store my rotary table, so I can bring the mill table right up to it.
OP
Hephaestus29
Well-known member
Looks like it's on a table, do you still
have to lift it ?
have to lift it ?
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Simply adjust the mill table all the way back and to the same level, and slide the rotary table from one to the other. Mine must weigh close to 200 lbs.
OP
Hephaestus29
Well-known member
Well I finally pretty much finished the X installation of my DRO, except for the cover for the scale and I'm thinking about using some aluminum angle instead of the cheap cover that is supplied.
I had plenty of Aluminum bar stock so I used it to clamp the way cover/apron in place.
Then I cut off part of a slab of 1" thick 6061 and milled it to hold the reader, and then I bolted the reader holder to the way cover/apron clamp.
After I got it bolted down, I plugged it in and discovered I have lots of slop where the saddle lays on the knee. I'm hoping I can take it out.
anyway here's a few pics.
I had plenty of Aluminum bar stock so I used it to clamp the way cover/apron in place.
Then I cut off part of a slab of 1" thick 6061 and milled it to hold the reader, and then I bolted the reader holder to the way cover/apron clamp.
After I got it bolted down, I plugged it in and discovered I have lots of slop where the saddle lays on the knee. I'm hoping I can take it out.
anyway here's a few pics.
Attachments
OP
Hephaestus29
Well-known member
Nice, mind sharing specs and back story?
OP
Hephaestus29
Well-known member
Thanks John.
A guy/friend I used to work with got it at an auction, it's been sitting outside covered in plastic for nearly a year, he never touched it. It wouldn't even clear his garage door without tipping it over. He's always hard-up for money "buys everything on a credit card" so I figured sooner or later he might part with it, plus he's not in very good shape.
Here are some pics with a pic of the specification tag.
It has a 24x24 table and it's 16" from the blade to the blade guard.
As you can see it definitely has or had some electrical problems.
someone had been in the box and jumpered the fuses, the blade welder wasn't even bolted in and a couple other covers weren't bolted on.
I guess i'm going to need a service manual..
A guy/friend I used to work with got it at an auction, it's been sitting outside covered in plastic for nearly a year, he never touched it. It wouldn't even clear his garage door without tipping it over. He's always hard-up for money "buys everything on a credit card" so I figured sooner or later he might part with it, plus he's not in very good shape.
Here are some pics with a pic of the specification tag.
It has a 24x24 table and it's 16" from the blade to the blade guard.
As you can see it definitely has or had some electrical problems.
someone had been in the box and jumpered the fuses, the blade welder wasn't even bolted in and a couple other covers weren't bolted on.
I guess i'm going to need a service manual..
Attachments
MattFromIll
Member
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Uh....why?
Knurled extensions are awesome for spinning in and out fasteners. Palm the ratchet head and use your fingers to spin the extension.
mdbeck1
Well-known member
I've got a set of extensions with knurling. When my hands are greasy and the nut/bolt is fairly loose I can grab the shaft of the extension and turn it by hand.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice job and welcome to the forum.
I too prefer to use knurled extensions. Work much better with a little grease on your hands.
Mike.
longlivepunk
Well-known member
My dad needed a new cable-drum for his antique clock. This is the old setup:
But the drum crushed and solder came apart:
I wanted the new one to be supported (contact the shaft) at both ends without relying on being soldered to the ratchet-ring to hold it up, but I also don't want it to be solid brass for weight reasons. My solution was two hollow ends pressed together:
Turned down as needed then for style points I put a radius in each end hill-billy style (big hss Weldon style ball-endmill held in a toolholder)
Drilled a couple 1/8" holes and tapped one so that a small set-screw acts as a cable clamp, and it's ready to solder on!
MUCH more solid.
Sent from my B15 using Tapatalk
But the drum crushed and solder came apart:
I wanted the new one to be supported (contact the shaft) at both ends without relying on being soldered to the ratchet-ring to hold it up, but I also don't want it to be solid brass for weight reasons. My solution was two hollow ends pressed together:
Turned down as needed then for style points I put a radius in each end hill-billy style (big hss Weldon style ball-endmill held in a toolholder)
Drilled a couple 1/8" holes and tapped one so that a small set-screw acts as a cable clamp, and it's ready to solder on!
MUCH more solid.
Sent from my B15 using Tapatalk
kazlx
Well-known member
https://scontent.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/11150166_10153600413089168_6288617742153156271_n.jpg?oh=bd235550fd0f39977053ea1a45d4a744&oe=56A6A18D
I was clearing out pics on my iPad and saw these .Its been a while since I built it and couldn't recall if I posted anything on here.I did a search and didn't see anything so thought I would share.
I didn't really do a lot of building pics but just a few at different stages.
This steady was for my monarch lathe.the cost was too high to purchase one so I decided to build it.I wanted it to look somewhat like it belonged on the lathe so that's why it is shaped as it is.
I started out with a flat plate. Radius end it and drilled the center hole.i have 3 of these plates for making these..Its sat around a while.lol
I didn't have pics of the arms of the steady but you can use your imagination.lol
I set it up on the rotary table and drilled and bored the holes for the fingers.
After that was don I sawed it in half and made a hinge and bronze bushings for the fingers.There isn't any pics of this work.Also made fingers and knobs.
Also made the base that fits the bed but again I didn't take pics. I really don't think much about following the build with pics at every step.Maybe I'll change that so I may give others ideas or such.I'm not a great teacher
Happy with how it functions and looks. Jim
I didn't really do a lot of building pics but just a few at different stages.
This steady was for my monarch lathe.the cost was too high to purchase one so I decided to build it.I wanted it to look somewhat like it belonged on the lathe so that's why it is shaped as it is.
I started out with a flat plate. Radius end it and drilled the center hole.i have 3 of these plates for making these..Its sat around a while.lol
I didn't have pics of the arms of the steady but you can use your imagination.lol
I set it up on the rotary table and drilled and bored the holes for the fingers.
After that was don I sawed it in half and made a hinge and bronze bushings for the fingers.There isn't any pics of this work.Also made fingers and knobs.
Also made the base that fits the bed but again I didn't take pics. I really don't think much about following the build with pics at every step.Maybe I'll change that so I may give others ideas or such.I'm not a great teacher
Happy with how it functions and looks. Jim
kazlx
Well-known member
dimple dies
https://scontent.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/11391221_10153394772654168_2620943207217622891_n.jpg?oh=a322cce1cc37da6ac345fcf83e803c99&oe=568A9705
https://scontent.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/11391221_10153394772654168_2620943207217622891_n.jpg?oh=a322cce1cc37da6ac345fcf83e803c99&oe=568A9705
kazlx
Well-known member
Whoa baby, that's perdy.
OP
Hephaestus29
Well-known member
Nice work to the 3 people above.
longlivepunk
Well-known member
Wow, Jim! That looks great! Definitely worthy of sitting on that beautiful Monarch.
Sent from my B15 using Tapatalk
Sent from my B15 using Tapatalk
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
How about parts for a double-barreled paintball gun?
I made every piece shown, on manual machines.
Doc.
DOC!!!!!
OMG, it's been forever since I visited the PB forums, pbnation/paintball city!
Everything you do is awesome. I remember your right hand Angel, hardlining Shockers! I believe I sent you my Shocker back in the day to actually have custom work done!!
Wow, didn't know you were on here!!
Good to see you are still doing your thing!
-Nigel
RXtacy
Well-known member
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kazlx
Well-known member
I don't. They are just for personal use. Those are just regular cold roll steel. I might in the future at some point, they just take too much time to make individually. I would really have to think about batching them.