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The Machine Work Thread

DocsMachine

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Sep 16, 2006
Messages
1,844
Regular readers will know that I'm a big fan of the 5C collet. They're very handy and widely useful- throw in "soft" collets that can be turned to almost any size and almost any depth to consistently and repeatably hold parts, even non-round parts, and you can see why they're so useful.

One of the most common accessories for a 5C collet setup in the lathe, is a collet stop. They generally screw in from the back of the collet, and have a threaded rod that lets you adjust the length, depending on the part and the machining needed. I've got a couple of that style.

I also have a fixture that can bolt to a mill table, that lets you use 5C collets to hold round things for milling. Well, I have a short-run job where I have to use that fixture and a rotary table to mill some features in some chunks of 3/4" delrin rod. The position of the milled feature is important, and I need to have the pieces held consistently in the collet.

I can't use a regular collet stop because it's too long- it sticks down below the fixture. That's almost not a problem as I'll be using the rotary table, which has a large center hole, but the captive collet nut still won't let the stop through.

I also can't use that "three blade" extrusion- I have some, but the shortest conceivable piece would still have my part sticking up too high. So I needed a better solution, and that solution was another case of having to spend an hour making a tool in order to get the job done.

A chunk of 1-1/4" round out of the bin, a few minutes of turning of... oh, 'bout that much, a bit of threading, and voila`!

colletstop1.jpg


The part will screw into the collet like so:

colletstop2.jpg


It needs to be low profile to clear everything, so it gets parted off, faced thin, and for the sake of expediency, just slotted for a wide screwdriver.

colletstop3.jpg


And done. The length wasn't hugely important, but I wanted to be in the right ballpark.

colletstop4.jpg


That gets fitted and tightened into the end of the collet like so....

colletstop5.jpg


And the collet installed in the fixture.

colletstop6.jpg


Worked a treat, and I was able to get all 12 pieces done easily and quickly, and to a reasonable standard of accuracy.

Doc.
 
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Duker

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Joined
Sep 25, 2010
Messages
10,861
Location
Livingston, TX
Regular readers will know that I'm a big fan of the 5C collet. They're very handy and widely useful- throw in "soft" collets that can be turned to almost any size and almost any depth to consistently and repeatably hold parts, even non-round parts, and you can see why they're so useful.



One of the most common accessories for a 5C collet setup in the lathe, is a collet stop. They generally screw in from the back of the collet, and have a threaded rod that lets you adjust the length, depending on the part and the machining needed. I've got a couple of that style.



I also have a fixture that can bolt to a mill table, that lets you use 5C collets to hold round things for milling. Well, I have a short-run job where I have to use that fixture and a rotary table to mill some features in some chunks of 3/4" delrin rod. The position of the milled feature is important, and I need to have the pieces held consistently in the collet.



I can't use a regular collet stop because it's too long- it sticks down below the fixture. That's almost not a problem as I'll be using the rotary table, which has a large center hole, but the captive collet nut still won't let the stop through.



I also can't use that "three blade" extrusion- I have some, but the shortest conceivable piece would still have my part sticking up too high. So I needed a better solution, and that solution was another case of having to spend an hour making a tool in order to get the job done.



A chunk of 1-1/4" round out of the bin, a few minutes of turning of... oh, 'bout that much, a bit of threading, and voila`!



colletstop1.jpg




The part will screw into the collet like so:



colletstop2.jpg




It needs to be low profile to clear everything, so it gets parted off, faced thin, and for the sake of expediency, just slotted for a wide screwdriver.



colletstop3.jpg




And done. The length wasn't hugely important, but I wanted to be in the right ballpark.



colletstop4.jpg




That gets fitted and tightened into the end of the collet like so....



colletstop5.jpg




And the collet installed in the fixture.



colletstop6.jpg




Worked a treat, and I was able to get all 12 pieces done easily and quickly, and to a reasonable standard of accuracy.



Doc.



That is slick.... nicely done!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 

Griff93

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Joined
Jul 25, 2009
Messages
1,121
Location
Huntsville, AL
Well done Doc!

I don't like my 5c collet stops because they stick out in the way at times such as these. I have a 5 block similar to the one on the rotary table. I don't use it nearly as much as I could because of not having a good stop for it. I think I'm going to make some similar to what Doc posted. I might just make a bunch of them in 1/8" length increments. I've had the rod style ones slip on me in the past causing problems.
 

MushCreek

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Jan 14, 2015
Messages
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Location
Upstate South Carolina
This project was so small, it barely deserves mention, although it is a good hack for guys with vertical mills. Many years ago, I ran a mill with this set-up, and it was so handy for drilling that I always outfitted mills at work this way. Yes, I get a lot of flack about the steering wheel, but when you're drilling all day, you'll see the wisdom in it.

I used to find these cheap 13" steering wheels in the junkyard all the time, but they seem to have gone out of favor, so I bought this new Grant for $35. I didn't have any round stock to make a hub, so I turned down an old sprocket I had laying around. I bored it to fit the mill (1.000), drilled and reamed a hole for a dowel pin, and drilled and tapped the other side to fit the bolt pattern on the wheel. I used one of the set screw holes to put in a ball plunger to help keep it in place. My B'Port has grooves for that.

Sorry, no action pictures of me making it.
 

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sanddan

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Joined
Jul 7, 2005
Messages
708
Location
Oregon
Small, but time consuming, project for a friend who needed a prop for his daughter's play, Clue. Mostly work with a bandsaw and file, but some work on the mill squaring up parts and the lathe turning the barrel and hardware and ramrod. He'll stain the stock and probably use rub n buff for a patina on the metal parts. Oh, also a couple 3d printed pieces.

attachment.php


Dave

That's really nice, great work.
 

KBigg

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Joined
Apr 15, 2019
Messages
474
Location
NE Indiana
This project was so small, it barely deserves mention, although it is a good hack for guys with vertical mills. Many years ago, I ran a mill with this set-up, and it was so handy for drilling that I always outfitted mills at work this way. Yes, I get a lot of flack about the steering wheel, but when you're drilling all day, you'll see the wisdom in it.

I used to find these cheap 13" steering wheels in the junkyard all the time, but they seem to have gone out of favor, so I bought this new Grant for $35. I didn't have any round stock to make a hub, so I turned down an old sprocket I had laying around. I bored it to fit the mill (1.000), drilled and reamed a hole for a dowel pin, and drilled and tapped the other side to fit the bolt pattern on the wheel. I used one of the set screw holes to put in a ball plunger to help keep it in place. My B'Port has grooves for that.

Sorry, no action pictures of me making it.
Thats hilarious yet genius all at once!
 

ClappedOutBport

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Joined
Mar 30, 2016
Messages
998
Actually not uncommon, both Tom Lipton and Bruce Whitham (professional machinists on yt) run steering wheel quills.
 

kazlx

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Joined
Oct 30, 2012
Messages
2,851
Location
Tustin, CA
Quick mod for a bike rack. Lowers the rack about 1.5" so it will clear a tailgate when in the up position. Along with my 'A free machine is the best machine' latest procurement.
 

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MushCreek

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Jan 14, 2015
Messages
9,736
Location
Upstate South Carolina
Another minor project- I made some levelers for the mill. I had some 1 X 4 bar stock laying around, so I cut it to two 28" pieces. I drilled and tapped for 5/8 bolts to fasten them to the base of the B'Port, then mounted levelers to the outside. The extra height is nice, plus you can retrieve items that invariably roll under there. I even took the time to break out my precision (.0005" over 12") level, and tweak it in so at least stuff doesn't roll off of the table. I should have painted them. I at least need to trim the excess length off of the adjusters.
 

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whateg01

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Mar 13, 2006
Messages
11,183
Location
doo dah, kansas, usa
I've been busy with work lately, but I finally got around to making some of the screws that were still needed to make the flintlock gun look period-correct.

attachment.php


I need to make some wood screws that look old. It used to be that you couldn't find flat head wood screws in Phillips. Nowadays, Phillips is all there is!

Dave
 

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whateg01

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doo dah, kansas, usa
I guess I forgot to post pics of the finished gun. The customer was impressed with it. That's what matters!

attachment.php
 

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Bigblue&Goldie

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Mar 12, 2009
Messages
10,661
Location
AZ
I recently acquired a Bridgeport, so I've been tooling up and trying to get organized. I bought one of the HF Gen 2 cabinets (which I really like) to store my tooling next to my mill. I like to keep my collets in the cabinet, but couldn't find a collet organizer that holds the collets flat to fit in the shallow drawer.

Here's what I came up with:
.125" aluminum, 10-32 SS screws/washers, threaded .500" aluminum spacers.
zN5rzgY.jpg


hexq4D0.jpg


xsz8Doh.jpg


Ou5eyPR.jpg


I have to admit, I think Pat's socket organizers are what inspired me.
 
Last edited:

Moosefire

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Joined
Oct 26, 2018
Messages
754
Location
Detroit
I recently acquired a Bridgeport, so I've been tooling up and trying to get organized. I bought one of the HF Gen 2 cabinets (which I really like) to store my tooling next to my mill. I like to keep my collets in the cabinet, but couldn't find a collet organizer that holds the collets flat to fit in the shallow drawer.

Here's what I came up with:
.125" aluminum, 10-32 SS screws/washers, threaded .500" aluminum spacers.
zN5rzgY.jpg


hexq4D0.jpg


xsz8Doh.jpg


Ou5eyPR.jpg


I have to admit, I think Pat's socket organizers are what inspired me.
Is that laser cut? If not how did you get such square cut corners? That looks really sweet!

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

zmotorsports

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Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,312
Location
Northern Utah
I recently acquired a Bridgeport, so I've been tooling up and trying to get organized. I bought one of the HF Gen 2 cabinets (which I really like) to store my tooling next to my mill. I like to keep my collets in the cabinet, but couldn't find a collet organizer that holds the collets flat to fit in the shallow drawer.

Here's what I came up with:
.125" aluminum, 10-32 SS screws/washers, threaded .500" aluminum spacers.


I have to admit, I think Pat's socket organizers are what inspired me.

That turned out fantastic. Very nice work.:bowdown:
 

matt_i

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Mar 14, 2008
Messages
10,717
Location
SE Michigan
Great job on the organizer, really like the design! So much better to have them clean in a drawer than on one of those "carousels" next to the mill column getting bathed in a stream of chips and curls.
 

Bigblue&Goldie

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Mar 12, 2009
Messages
10,661
Location
AZ
That turned out fantastic. Very nice work.:bowdown:

Thanks Mike!

Great job on the organizer, really like the design! So much better to have them clean in a drawer than on one of those "carousels" next to the mill column getting bathed in a stream of chips and curls.

Thanks! I actually have one of those that came on my mill, but I don't care for it for the same reasons you mentioned.
 

Griff93

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Joined
Jul 25, 2009
Messages
1,121
Location
Huntsville, AL
That's a great idea on the R8 collet rack. I need one of those myself. I just threw all mine in a drawer and hunt for the size I need every time I use my bridgeport.
 
OP
H

Hephaestus29

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Mar 13, 2011
Messages
2,969
Location
Indianapolis
I bought and brought home this new to me
Hardinge HLV-H Friday. It looks pretty crappy
but I plan to go through it.
 

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dkmc

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Jan 20, 2008
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948
Location
NYS--Upstate in the corn fields
That HLV-H looks similar the one I drug home about 15? years ago. Mine may be a bit more rusty (before I got it). I've kept it oiled down but haven't done anything with it. On a positive note, the similar crappy tan porch paint someone slathered on it has been peeling off from the warm/cold cycles in unheated storage. Maybe if you make progress on yours it will inspire me to get going on mine.....
 

4 FN 27

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Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
4,635
Location
Minnesnowta
I recently acquired a Bridgeport, so I've been tooling up and trying to get organized. I bought one of the HF Gen 2 cabinets (which I really like) to store my tooling next to my mill. I like to keep my collets in the cabinet, but couldn't find a collet organizer that holds the collets flat to fit in the shallow drawer.

Here's what I came up with:
.125" aluminum, 10-32 SS screws/washers, threaded .500" aluminum spacers.

I have to admit, I think Pat's socket organizers are what inspired me.

Bb&G it looks awesome!!!...I was just about to type "The concept looks familiar." Then I saw the last line under the pictures.

Beats my Collet rack to pieces!!!

Awesomeness!!!
 
OP
H

Hephaestus29

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Mar 13, 2011
Messages
2,969
Location
Indianapolis
That HLV-H looks similar the one I drug home about 15? years ago. Mine may be a bit more rusty (before I got it). I've kept it oiled down but haven't done anything with it. On a positive note, the similar crappy tan porch paint someone slathered on it has been peeling off from the warm/cold cycles in unheated storage. Maybe if you make progress on yours it will inspire me to get going on mine.....

I will be going through it, but I probably won’t
do much at all until I’m done with school in
the early summer.
I thought this one might be a pieced together
lathe but I pulled the tailstock off and the
serial number matches the bed, so it’s mainly
the paint making it look Frankensteinish.
 

whateg01

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Mar 13, 2006
Messages
11,183
Location
doo dah, kansas, usa
made up some tingamajigs for my saw a few days ago. kinda a lot more complicated then it looks holes coming in from both sides offset holes counter boring,counter sinking,pocketing non symmetrical. done on a bridgeport with 6061 aluminum .i will post up pictures of the final product soon.

With a DRO? They look good. I don't know if you made them one at a time, but lacking a DRO, I would have set a stop on the vise and performed each operation on multiples before moving to the next part.

Dave
 

kazlx

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Joined
Oct 30, 2012
Messages
2,851
Location
Tustin, CA
Some top cap sockets for servicing suspension forks.
 

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kazlx

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Thanks!
 

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