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The Machine Work Thread

JABgj

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So. California
Need a little help figuring something out. Just got a HF round post mill. It can use R8 collets, and has a MT3 taper in its spindle and it came with a few R8 collets. My lathe has a MT5 opening on the chuck side of the spindle and I have no collets for that. Is there an adapter and/or what is it called that would allow me to use the R8 collets on the lathe. OR, should I go in an other direction and find a different type of collet for the mill. The idea is to use 1 type of collet if at all possible for both machines.

Thanks
 
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Jim Johnstone

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Need a little help figuring something out. Just got a HF round post mill. It can use R8 collets, and has a MT3 taper in its spindle and it came with a few R8 collets. My lathe has a MT5 opening on the chuck side of the spindle and I have no collets for that. Is there an adapter and/or what is it called that would allow me to use the R8 collets on the lathe. OR, should I go in an other direction and find a different type of collet for the mill. The idea is to use 1 type of collet if at all possible for both machines.

Thanks
I think you're out of luck on trying to use one set of college for both machines. I think R8 is your only option for the mill, and why not use the chuck primarily on the lathe? what's the need for collets on the lathe? if you do need collets on the lathe, typically 5C is the style used.

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MushCreek

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There would have to be an adapter for the MT. Most lathes seem to be 5C, and they're pretty cheap to buy imported ones. I've never seen a milling type collet in a lathe, or vice versa. As for why have collets- I much prefer them after my 45 years in the trade. Much more accurate and rigid when working with regular round stock under an inch.
 

ClappedOutBport

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There would have to be an adapter for the MT. Most lathes seem to be 5C, and they're pretty cheap to buy imported ones. I've never seen a milling type collet in a lathe, or vice versa. As for why have collets- I much prefer them after my 45 years in the trade. Much more accurate and rigid when working with regular round stock under an inch.

Our 10" Rockwell came with a homemade R8 adapter. Works pretty well, but only on short stuff.

About the only option I can see to use one set of collets without a custom adapter is a like a mt3 er collet adapter, then a mt5 to mt3 reducer bushing.
 

kazlx

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Got these moved in today. I’ll keep one and sell the other. If I had the room, I’d keep them both.
 

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catalytic

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Got these moved in today. I’ll keep one and sell the other. If I had the room, I’d keep them both.

How do you end up with a pair of matching 10EE's in matching colors? People search for years for a nice one that isn't beaten to death. Nice lathes. If I had them, I'd find room for the 2nd (maybe this is why I have too much stuff)
 

matt_i

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Those look like WiaD lathes ("works in a drawer"). Double shelf of vacuum tubes. Do they still run on that drive?
 

kazlx

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How do you end up with a pair of matching 10EE's in matching colors? People search for years for a nice one that isn't beaten to death. Nice lathes. If I had them, I'd find room for the 2nd (maybe this is why I have too much stuff)

I'd love to keep the second, but I only have about 500 sq ft and already have a 3016 Fadal in there. I purchased them at an auction. I've been looking for one for a long time.

Those look like WiaD lathes ("works in a drawer"). Double shelf of vacuum tubes. Do they still run on that drive?

They look like they have been retrofitted with some other type of drive system. I'm not exactly sure what it is yet, it will take a little more investigating.
 

matt_i

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They look like they have been retrofitted with some other type of drive system. I'm not exactly sure what it is yet, it will take a little more investigating.

Maybe this is well-known but the challenge in a 10EE retrofit is to keep the back-gearbox (single manual synchro gear reduction). The original DC motor has a very custom extended end-bell which also is the cantilevered support shaft for the underdrive gear. Lots of words, but the bottom line is it doesn't mesh easily with a classic AC motor.

I have one in the shop with a sidelined VFD retrofit, made some parts for it this year and hope to clear things up and get'r'running :)

In either case, congrats on having the iron to get started. Getting the apron/saddle internal oiling going (if its not) is an excellent step forward.
 

Toolmaker51

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Missouri
Need a little help figuring something out. Just got a HF round post mill. It can use R8 collets, and has a MT3 taper in its spindle and it came with a few R8 collets. My lathe has a MT5 opening on the chuck side of the spindle and I have no collets for that. Is there an adapter and/or what is it called that would allow me to use the R8 collets on the lathe. OR, should I go in an other direction and find a different type of collet for the mill. The idea is to use 1 type of collet if at all possible for both machines.

Thanks
#1 Your appraisal is confusing. This "interchange" is unlikely, It can use R8 collets, and has a MT3 taper in its spindle, and impractical for mill and lathe.
Coupled with responses identifying vast physical difference of R8 vs MT, another issue is daylight; available space from spindle to work-piece. MT uses lots in accomplishing tool changes, not to mention extending the quill to access drift slot. Few if any round column mills will reattain identical previous relationship with table X & Y after raising and lowering the head; same basic issue as round drill presses. The detriments are same if drawbar MT's were a goal, along with loosing tool diameter capacity.
Far as R8 for lathe use, the complications are similar but reversed and loosing capacity of stock [material] size and length.
So, my conclusion is yes; but time-consuming, limits machine capability, and highly impractical on different levels. Strategically thinking, it has some logic; tactically, little or no advantage.
That still doesn't involve considerations making concentric, ground holders of heat-treatable material, and in "one each" size for 2 or more machines.
Despite all that, a few guys have made lathe QC toolholder blocks in R8; again they are blind collets [no thru hole, need drawbar], making justification questionable.
The attraction is low cost; R8's are probably lowest of all similarly sized holders. Smaller stock, no through hole, shallow precision diameter, just 3 cuts and a keyway, ID threads simple to tap, and short angle.
If for some reason compelled to make collets, do something like ER's or DA's. They are double cut [from each end] offering more size range per unit by compressing. Single cut only hold correctly on ONE diameter, anything else is pinched; concentricity down the drain.
 
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Hephaestus29

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Location
Indianapolis
Who can name some new manual machining channels I
haven’t seen?

Abom79 used to be great but he’s turned
into a travel channel.
Fenner was good maybe he still is but
I’m a bit soured with him.

I still watch mrpete222 but I’m looking
to watch some new people.

Any suggestions?
 

Bigblue&Goldie

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Mar 12, 2009
Messages
10,661
Location
AZ
Who can name some new manual machining channels I
haven’t seen?

Abom79 used to be great but he’s turned
into a travel channel.
Fenner was good maybe he still is but
I’m a bit soured with him.

I still watch mrpete222 but I’m looking
to watch some new people.

Any suggestions?

Joe Pieczynski is awesome.
 

larry_g

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Joined
Apr 28, 2007
Messages
16,858
Location
oregon
Who can name some new manual machining channels I
haven’t seen?

Abom79 used to be great but he’s turned
into a travel channel.
Fenner was good maybe he still is but
I’m a bit soured with him.

I still watch mrpete222 but I’m looking
to watch some new people.

Any suggestions?

Themetalraymond

I find this guy fascinating to watch. He is a master at his machine. Not an educational channel, he runs mainly a boring mill and works on some really big stuff, and some tiny stuff for that machine.

David Richards

Runs a steam powered lineshaft shop. Again out of the ordinary.

lg
no neat sig line
 

ez-duzit

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Messages
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Location
Marina del Rey
Don't think I posted these. New bearing races I machined from stainless steel for sailboat roller furler. Because wall thickness was only around 0.050" I did all the machining on the bar stock and then parted them off. 2 pairs of inners and outers.


 
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Jim Johnstone

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Location
Brantford, Ontario
made a torque plate for boring and honing my son's go kart engines. e1b4b114bb0cf4220fc7cb8e61376404.jpg

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kazlx

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A jig for a guy that wants to change lug patterns. Datsun to VW/Porsche I think?
 

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kazlx

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I'd love to see any photos/explanation of your work holding sub plate.

It’s really nothing fancy. It’s like a 10 x 12 x 1.25 thick plate bolted to a 4x4” bar of aluminum so I can clamp it in my vise. I use it for thin sheet or stuff like this. So I just drilled and tapped 1/4-20 holes at a 6.5” square and then drilled through holes in the material and bolted it down. Nothing that interesting.
 

kazlx

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Messages
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Location
Tustin, CA
Some adjustable V blocks for fixture tables.
 

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Jim Johnstone

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I bought a coupler lock for my new trailer, which was a "universal" fit that would work on 1 7/8", 2", and 2 5/16" couplers, which essentially meant the lock had a 1 7/8" ball cast into it. Probably would have worked fine, but that lock was so loose and sloppy in the 2 5/16" coupler that it almost felt like a whack on the shackle with a mallet would get the shackle off the front of the coupler, then the ball would just drop out. So I machined off the cast ball, bored a hole for the shank, flipped it and milled a pocket for the nut and installed a proper 2 5/16" ball, then tack welded the nut and shank together so it can't be unscrewed. Now it fits like a glove, and I can actually lock the coupler latch as well, so even if someone broke the body of the lock, there would be a ball locked in the coupler still.f0b08ea251af290ee61211fdefefd918.jpgab5c8643e318a054620dfd86ebe52354.jpg08e080f16327349852f110602fd91343.jpg

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Hephaestus29

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I won this Grinder at Auction yesterday.
I still have to pay and bring it home.
 

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Hephaestus29

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Yes just manual. It does have a coolant
tank and pump and a balancer.
It’s an 8x16

I’ve only ran Okamotos at work, so I’m
curious about the accuracy. That depends
on more than one factor though. It
seems smooth and tight.
 

Jim Johnstone

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Yes just manual. It does have a coolant
tank and pump and a balancer.
It’s an 8x16

I’ve only ran Okamotos at work, so I’m
curious about the accuracy. That depends
on more than one factor though. It
seems smooth and tight.
I used them in Mold and Die making fitting mold components. Provided its not worn out, it can certainly provide very good accuracy.

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motophile

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ne oh
That looks like a nice grinder. Most of my day is spent in front of a surface grinder fitting mold parts. I wish mine had a lower Z feed like that one. When spinning core pins your arm is above your head all day.lol. Is that a wheel dresser mounted on the spindle?
 

Jim Johnstone

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That looks like a nice grinder. Most of my day is spent in front of a surface grinder fitting mold parts. I wish mine had a lower Z feed like that one. When spinning core pins your arm is above your head all day.lol. Is that a wheel dresser mounted on the spindle?
totally agree man, I HATE surface grinders with the feed up on the column.

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MushCreek

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I spent 40 years cranking mostly Harigs and other small grinders with the handle up on the column. I have on in my home shop, but I'm probably going to sell it. My mold-making days are behind me.
 
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Hephaestus29

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That looks like a nice grinder. Most of my day is spent in front of a surface grinder fitting mold parts. I wish mine had a lower Z feed like that one. When spinning core pins your arm is above your head all day.lol. Is that a wheel dresser mounted on the spindle?

Sorry for the delay, yes that’s a wheel dresser.

It’s very similar to the manual okamotos I ran at work.
 

Monza Harry

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totally agree man, I HATE surface grinders with the feed up on the column.

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I've used a Kent 618 with the lower handle, seems odd to me now as most I've used had the upper "Z" handle [ most common here are Chevalier's, a couple of Freeport's etc.] the lower ones [ a few Reid's, many Jones and Shipman's and they are NOT my favourite at all!] always seem to be on the right hand side and are out in the aisle way and do tend to get bumped by the oblivious around me while walking by. Harry
 
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