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The Machine Work Thread

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Bigblue&Goldie

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Mar 12, 2009
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10,661
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AZ
Grinding is fascinating; I'd love to learn more about it, but unfortunately it seems like there is very little coverage in community college courses. What little I've done was flat grinding with basic setup. Granted, grinding seems like it gets very specialized, which probably means you learn it through apprenticeship or on the job training.
 

motophile

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Jul 2, 2015
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ne oh
At times i have had to counter weight the table so it wouldn't tip. That Kent with the 8×18 chuck would be nice.
 

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motophile

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ne oh
I attended a machine class in high school, and was working part time in a shop. Graduated ,went full time. They made stator winding machines and i was taught form grinding. These are some of the different shapes the wire wraps around.
I would make hundreds of those things,i soon got bored of it and got a job making form tools. Tools used in screw machines. I found mold making 35 years ago and thats what i love doing. Every mold is different and the part it produces is a new product. Some day i will post my collection of the mold samples i have saved over the years, it would be neat to see if anyone could identify some of them.
 

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MushCreek

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Upstate South Carolina
Today, I made a 'very expensive' set of weights for my home gym. I needed 1-1/4 lb weights for my dumbbells. Due to the weight of the empty dumbbell (2-1/2 lbs.), you can't hit numbers such as 10, 15,20, 25 lbs., etc. I know it seems trivial, but I follow a computer program, and the difference between a 7-1/2 lb. dumbbell and a 10 lb. one is significant, depending upon the exercise.

Now, they make 1-1/4 lb. plates, and they're normally only a couple bucks a piece. BUT- in the age of Covid, nobody has them. You look on ebay, and they're wanting $30 and up for four of them. That's $6 a lb.! Making my own wasn't very cost effective, except I'm retired, I have steel laying around, and I like doing this stuff.

First, I cut out the blanks from 1" hot rolled flat bar. I used a 3" hole saw, which made quick work of it, after I stumbled upon a trick. The first one I cut out had a hole on the edge of my circle. I was afraid the slight interrupted cut would cause a problem, but it took less than 5 minutes to drop the slug at 135 RPM in my old B'Port.

I went on to the second one, and it was a real fight. There was no good way to get the chips out of the groove the saw cut. I had to dig them out with a small pin. I realized then that the hole was on the edge helped. The next two, I drill a 3/8" hole between them so the hole saw caught the edge of it. It gives the chips somewhere to go instead of clogging it up.

Then it was a matter of drilling the middle hole out to 1", then mounting them on an arbor (a bolt, actually) and turning the OD to get the weight where I wanted it. In all, it was a couple hours of fooling around. It would have been much more fun, but it was 40 degrees in the shop this morning. Brrr!
 

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txvwnut

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Location
Bedford, Texas
Made an adapter for a customer to reposition the turbo for a vanagon TDI swap. Nothing really special made from a 1/2” plate.
 

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Jim Johnstone

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Brantford, Ontario
That's good, because they break very easily. We lost the key to one and broke it with a hammer. Not a sledge, a carpenter's hammer!
Yep, absolutely easy to smash, hence why I wanted to make sure there would be a ball locked in. Ultimately if someone really wants it, they're probably going to get it, but anything that acts as a deterrent should help a bit.

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white91formula

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Dec 11, 2012
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424
Location
Boston, MA
Made some leveling feet on my lathe for the new cabinet i picked up for my lathe.

Waiting on some epoxy to cure and on they will go
 

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kazlx

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Oct 30, 2012
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2,851
Location
Tustin, CA
Starting on some custom dropouts for a Triumph. The dude is building a tubular rear swingarm.
 

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Monza Harry

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Windsor ON
Yep, absolutely easy to smash, hence why I wanted to make sure there would be a ball locked in. Ultimately if someone really wants it, they're probably going to get it, but anything that acts as a deterrent should help a bit.

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Anything that adds work, makes noise, or takes more time is a thiefs worst enemy/nightmare. Good approach! You can also crank the tongue way up with the tongue jack and lock the handle as a pintle/ball combo hitch can be used in a locked open coupler with out ever dealing with any of it on scene. So a phallic projectile could also be added on on top as a good defence to that means of escape [plugged top and bottom]. Harry
https://www.princessauto.com/en/8-ton-bolt-on-pintle-hook/product/PA0008779936
For trailers with straight tongues make the tongue with the coupler removable like the rentals do, try and make the tongue an odd ball size tube and offset the pin hole to an odd size as well, again harder to steal I see yours is an "A" frame so this doesn't help on this one but maybe others or a future one of yours. H.R.
 
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shortykorte

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Sep 1, 2014
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Tallahassee, Fl
Nice leveling feet. Do you have pic before putting together? What size bolt is that and what’s under the washer, hex head?


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white91formula

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Boston, MA
are those hockey pucks as the pads?

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Yes they are. I have a 5 gal bucket full of them.

They machined nice after I got them to stop popping out of the chuck. I've been hit by them enough over the years that seeing a few of them come out of the chuck was no big deal.
 

Jim Johnstone

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Brantford, Ontario
Yes they are. I have a 5 gal bucket full of them.



They machined nice after I got them to stop popping out of the chuck. I've been hit by them enough over the years that seeing a few of them come out of the chuck was no big deal.
good thinking with them, I used steel "pucks" on my lathe leveling feet, but I've got a fair bit heavier lathe and thought pucks would probably split.

I know the feeling of being hit by plenty of them, I used to make fun of my dad for being a goalie and voluntarily being hit by pucks for fun, he just pointed out that I was a defenseman and blocked shots with half the equipment he had. He may have a point.

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PugetDude

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Mar 13, 2013
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Superstition Mountains, AZ
I made a set of leveling feet for my mill using hockey pucks, aluminum round stock and 1/2” carriage bolts.
 

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ClappedOutBport

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good thinking with them, I used steel "pucks" on my lathe leveling feet, but I've got a fair bit heavier lathe and thought pucks would probably split.

I know the feeling of being hit by plenty of them, I used to make fun of my dad for being a goalie and voluntarily being hit by pucks for fun, he just pointed out that I was a defenseman and blocked shots with half the equipment he had. He may have a point.

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Split? Lmao. Sorry, but unless your lathe weights like a million lbs (literally), I wouldn't worry.



I believe HPC's press requires the second pressure stage at 70 tons, so with 8 pucks that's 1.12 million lbs. :D

Tl;dr, I think you may have underestimated the crushing force of rubber.
 

Jim Johnstone

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Split? Lmao. Sorry, but unless your lathe weights like a million lbs (literally), I wouldn't worry.









I believe HPC's press requires the second pressure stage at 70 tons, so with 8 pucks that's 1.12 million lbs. :D



Tl;dr, I think you may have underestimated the crushing force of rubber.
I'm just going off the fact that I've broken 4 or 5 pucks taking slapshots when I was a teenager so I guess I just always questioned their integrity from that. But judging by the video you shared, they look like they'd more than do the job, maybe I'll go that route for my surface grinder, since I've already got the steel pucks made up for my lathe.

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ClappedOutBport

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I'm just going off the fact that I've broken 4 or 5 pucks taking slapshots when I was a teenager so I guess I just always questioned their integrity from that. But judging by the video you shared, they look like they'd more than do the job, maybe I'll go that route for my surface grinder, since I've already got the steel pucks made up for my lathe.

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Well, temperature and age probably make a big difference.

FWIW, I did solid steel pucks like yours. I went a bit thinner though, yours are probably a bit overkill. :D

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macgyver37

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Mar 7, 2013
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Pittsburg, Kansas
I upped my metal lathe game this weekend. I picked up an early 80's Mori Seiki SL-4 cnc lathe. Need to move it to its spot, still just inside the door at the moment. Pretty excited to get it making parts.
I also got a W&S #1 turret lathe and a 3A turret lathe in the deal. I have a job in mind for the #1, not sure what to do with the 3A yet. Also got a Milltronics cnc vertical knee mill, no tool changer, but if it does it's job it will pay for an upgrade to a mill with a toolchanger and hopefully enclosure and chip auger.
 

Jim Johnstone

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I upped my metal lathe game this weekend. I picked up an early 80's Mori Seiki SL-4 cnc lathe. Need to move it to its spot, still just inside the door at the moment. Pretty excited to get it making parts.
I also got a W&S #1 turret lathe and a 3A turret lathe in the deal. I have a job in mind for the #1, not sure what to do with the 3A yet. Also got a Milltronics cnc vertical knee mill, no tool changer, but if it does it's job it will pay for an upgrade to a mill with a toolchanger and hopefully enclosure and chip auger.
right on man, those old Mori's are pretty sweet

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macgyver37

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I hope mine turns out to be as good as the other ones I know of. One of my friends has a shop with a bunch of them in it. His are 1 generation control newer than mine, but they have been a solid performer for him forever.

I haven't ran a cnc lathe in over 20 years and even then I was just a parts changer. Mine has a Yasnac control on it so it's not what I'm used to, but I have a couple books for it and a buddy. I'm sure there will be some head scratching but I am looking forward to it.
 

ClappedOutBport

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One of the most difficult, time consuming project's I've done. A set of shaft clamps for a friend for MTB work. 19 hours for these. Apparently it's common to need to apply ludicrous torque to telfon-coated aluminum bike parts when repairing shocks and stuff. So he needed no-mar clamps with a very precise diameter. I'm pretty proud of these. 15 holes, all within 1 thousands, all but 3 or 4 within 5 tenths. All bored with a 2" Shars boring head on a worn-out bridgeport. Finish was a little more rainbow-y before my friend polished it with a scotchbrite wheel, but as an aluminum tool it's already getting dinged up. Bores are as machined. Still needs the sizes stamped on, I'm leaving that for him.
 

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Hephaestus29

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Indianapolis
I cleaned this Buck Chuck I’ve had
laying around for a while to go on the
HLV-H. If anyone has an extra set of
jaws laying around for a 2063R
please pm me.
 

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ClappedOutBport

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I cleaned this Buck Chuck I’ve had
laying around for a while to go on the
HLV-H. If anyone has an extra set of
jaws laying around for a 2063R
please pm me.

I also need a back plate for the same
Chuck for a threaded nose on my HLV-H
the threads are 2&3/16ths 10

I've got a very similar chuck. I made a backplate out of a cast iron weight plate. Great chuck. Shame what they did to your jaws Hep!

View media item 109084
https://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/f...set-tru-gloat-machining?p=1908097#post1908097
 

matt_i

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Mar 14, 2008
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SE Michigan
I cleaned this Buck Chuck I’ve had
laying around for a while to go on the
HLV-H. If anyone has an extra set of
jaws laying around for a 2063R
please pm me.

If these are "American Standard" there are a number of places to buy them.

The soft jaws that you bore to size while clamped on a ring are going to be more precise (= concentric) than the original hard jaws.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-American...Chuck-Soft-Jaws-FLAT-END-2-0-HT-/361011784759

Search "American Standard 2 piece chuck jaws" or "....top jaws"
 

ClappedOutBport

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OP
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Hephaestus29

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Mar 13, 2011
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Indianapolis
When I get my surface grinder set up I
might be able to re-grind the jaws that
are on there now, but for now I’d like
to have another set.
 

white91formula

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Dec 11, 2012
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424
Location
Boston, MA
Picked up another south bend 9. Originally was going to clean it up and restore and make it a small turret lathe with lever cross slide and bed turret.

It sat for a bunch of years unused and is pretty grimey. My initial tear down shows its a Frankenstein. It was a 9c that someone converted to a 9a. Going to get it cleaned up and see where we are.

Might end up keeping some things for mine and parting the rest out.
 

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Ecosta777

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Apr 26, 2016
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MA
Just got all these back from anodizing. Took roughly 6 months pecking away at them in my free time at work / after work. All done using our HAAS toolroom mill. Everything is 6061 aluminum.

They are all for RC race buggies, not sure of the scale. Just about everything was custom designed by the customer, except for the frames and the steering arms (Set of 4 orange / set of 2 green things)

Don't want to overload the thread with pictures so here's a google link! Have plenty of glamour shots and a few in process ones.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/12uvGeFGAUJCzldG3LwNIkynMbFe6_ZP5?usp=sharing
 

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kazlx

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Location
Tustin, CA
New addition to the shop and the first project.
 

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