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Above 1200 Sq/FT The Norwell Equipped Shop/Studio Build Thread

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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M

Mr onetwo

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Apr 6, 2011
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2,009
Location
Coastal Maine
Norwell Equipped said:
Well. work moves on but nothing earth shattering...... waiting for the tin wacker still. and the HVAC guy to show up.
I did find a neat funky 1970's washtub which I will use in the Mechnical room. A little elbow grease and it will be good as new.
Click to expand...
That slop sink is epic!!! :eyecrazy: I remember green bathrooms...tore out a lot of them back in the day:bounce:green.jpg
 
P

phred

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Apr 23, 2009
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527
Location
NC
Wow, I just found your thread and am in awe. Beautiful work. I have been a fan of your art for years and the level of detail in your shop reflects the beauty of your art. Thanks for posting and I will enjoy the ride. I do not however envy the weather you experience up there in the great white north. Yikes!!
 
OP
N

Norwell Equipped

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Joined
Jul 15, 2015
Messages
160
Location
Palookaville
phred said:
Wow, I just found your thread and am in awe. Beautiful work. I have been a fan of your art for years and the level of detail in your shop reflects the beauty of your art. Thanks for posting and I will enjoy the ride. I do not however envy the weather you experience up there in the great white north. Yikes!!
Click to expand...
Thanks phred, your very kind.

Yes.. the weather is a daily grind... until April....hopefully.
The HVAC arrived yesterday, setting water lines and getting plumbing set up,.. delivering the furnace.
but the weather again is not cooperating, another front hit us last night..... roads closed etc, etc.....
 
6

67CarGuy

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Joined
Feb 6, 2008
Messages
763
Location
Outside Boston, MA
Norwell Equipped said:
I have zero knowledge about furnaces and pushing air... hoping to learn as much as possible in the next few days....
Click to expand...
At the risk of telling you more info than you really need...
Make sure your installer is fully sealing every duct joint, seam, connection, etc. Duct leakage prevents the conditioned air you're paying to heat or cool from getting to the places it's supposed to be. Even if all of your ductwork is inside your insulated space, you still want your ductwork to be as free of leaks as possible.
  • Foil duct tape sealed with a "squeegee" (like you might use to smooth body filler) is a good start, but duct mastic applied "nickel thick" is generally better.
  • Have them use fiberglass mesh tape on larger gaps so the mastic doesn't fall through.
  • If you're applying the mastic, be prepared to get it on you, so wear clothes you don't care about. Definitely wear gloves, even if you're using a brush.
  • Use a brush!
  • If your duct outlets (aka boots) will be in drywall (vs just hanging out overhead, etc.) cut the drywall as tight as possible to the duct opening, and then seal the drywall to the duct. This can usually be done easily enough with foil tape (no mastic needed here). This is another great way to keep the air you've paid for going to the places you want it to go, rather than into a wall or ceiling cavity.
Hope that helps!
 
OP
N

Norwell Equipped

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Joined
Jul 15, 2015
Messages
160
Location
Palookaville
67CarGuy said:
At the risk of telling you more info than you really need...
Make sure your installer is fully sealing every duct joint, seam, connection, etc. Duct leakage prevents the conditioned air you're paying to heat or cool from getting to the places it's supposed to be. Even if all of your ductwork is inside your insulated space, you still want your ductwork to be as free of leaks as possible.
  • Foil duct tape sealed with a "squeegee" (like you might use to smooth body filler) is a good start, but duct mastic applied "nickel thick" is generally better.
  • Have them use fiberglass mesh tape on larger gaps so the mastic doesn't fall through.
  • If you're applying the mastic, be prepared to get it on you, so wear clothes you don't care about. Definitely wear gloves, even if you're using a brush.
  • Use a brush!
  • If your duct outlets (aka boots) will be in drywall (vs just hanging out overhead, etc.) cut the drywall as tight as possible to the duct opening, and then seal the drywall to the duct. This can usually be done easily enough with foil tape (no mastic needed here). This is another great way to keep the air you've paid for going to the places you want it to go, rather than into a wall or ceiling cavity.
Hope that helps!
Click to expand...


That is great info.. and yes it helps!
Many thanks!

Jeff
 
L

larry4406

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Joined
Jan 27, 2006
Messages
19,247
Location
Northern Virginia
Wow epic build! Not sure how I missed this! Awesome rods as well!

When I saw the insulated slab detail, I was sure it would have radiant floor heat....

Love the green office tin work and reuse of the factory window frames.

Post 126 shows the electric panel mounted sideways. I am guessing that is a Canada thing (I have seen other Canadian builds that have it like that)?
 
OP
N

Norwell Equipped

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Joined
Jul 15, 2015
Messages
160
Location
Palookaville
larry4406 said:
Wow epic build! Not sure how I missed this! Awesome rods as well!

When I saw the insulated slab detail, I was sure it would have radiant floor heat....

Love the green office tin work and reuse of the factory window frames.

Post 126 shows the electric panel mounted sideways. I am guessing that is a Canada thing (I have seen other Canadian builds that have it like that)?
Click to expand...

Thanks!
That's interesting.... and come to think about it.. my last home had the electrical panel sideways as well.(In the house and the shop)
Never thought about it.
I do know that the power is entering from the bottom right from outside.... and the layout is just cleaner in this application.

I haven't labelled the panel as of yet....(but that's why the cardboard tacked under the panel is there marked out.A little more wiring is needed yet)
 
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N

Norwell Equipped

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Jul 15, 2015
Messages
160
Location
Palookaville
This is the far rear wall of the shop.. across from the office.....
Plans are to build an overhead storage cabinets.... or bins.... they will have hinges that swing towards the ceiling and hook via a latch to remain open when needed.My benches will run straight across this wall as well.
I am not concerned with perfection on the walls.... this is a shop.. not my house.....
While other dig that and I respect it..... I will have so much in this joint... the walls will never get noticed.

I need to optimize as much storage space as humanly possible.
Along the side walls will be a long running shelf about 12 feet.... again to optimize.

I have a general plan but things change constantly in my mind.


78.jpg79.jpg
 
OP
N

Norwell Equipped

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Joined
Jul 15, 2015
Messages
160
Location
Palookaville
I do have a question that has been on my mind .
Flooring
Or which is the best direction.
Concrete has been laid about 45 days ago... not sure how long it takes to cure.
I have been reading and observing the flooring section here for sometimes..... and still confused on the best solution.
I am leaning towards an epoxy.
While I like stuff like race deck and other tiles ..... it not for me due to cost.
Been flirting with the idea of epoxy..... but not sure the right procedure.... seen the etching prior... but then hear about grinding the surface.
At this point... cost is a major factor.
What I seem to want is a tinted floor covering... that has somewhat of a durable finish..... oil, solvents, etc.....
This will not be a heavy fab shop.. but the occasional welding, grinding will occur.I need something that will stand up to this.
But in the meantime... I just may use a sealer on the floor.
Not sure if doing that is a problem in case I go with an Epoxy.Also..I have so much to bring into the shop.. tools, hoists, cars, etc, etc.... I really don't want to move all from one side to the next.I have all my equipment and things in storage containers.. which I want out ASAP because of rental costs...and frankly..I want my stuff. Lol!

So..as mentioned..I have been on the flooring sections.. but if there is a specific thread which covers some of the questions I have.. please direct me.
This place is monstrous.

Thanks guys.
 
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N

Norwell Equipped

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Palookaville
Well. lots done over the weekend.. ceiling installed and up..... finished off the 2 interior doors, painted the office and got them old window frames free of 100 year old window putty and silicone.
That was a nasty job and took 2 full days.
Hopefully more will happen this week .. the weather has been horrid.
87.jpg88.jpg
 
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N

Norwell Equipped

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Location
Palookaville
Well small steps.... working on the rear door wall of the office.... Pots lights installed and a fan.....
Cut the windows out and using scrap material on the back door wall.Had a lot of 1x3 pine strapping... ruff cut material. So we cut different lengths and will layout horizontally.
I did this before on my last shop, on the end walls.... had a nice feel.
Using a black tar paper over the already pink insulation and vapour barrier..... the pine strapping will shrink over time(just a bit) so. better to see black than pink.
Need to foam around the windows today and make frames for the doors and windows .
little by little.

89.jpg90.jpg
 
J

jblnut

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Jan 17, 2015
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In the Middle of MN
What to a great read so far !! Your attention to detail and overall style is amazing. I saw the holes for the dormers and hoped they’d be functional and not just for show and I wasn’t disappointed.

I’m looking forward to the decorating of the new shop and love the accents you’ve done so far !!
 
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N

Norwell Equipped

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Jul 15, 2015
Messages
160
Location
Palookaville
jblnut said:
What to a great read so far !! Your attention to detail and overall style is amazing. I saw the holes for the dormers and hoped they’d be functional and not just for show and I wasn’t disappointed.

I’m looking forward to the decorating of the new shop and love the accents you’ve done so far !!
Click to expand...
Many Thanks!.....
Yes. the dormers are fully functional on the second floor... the upstairs will serve as storage and possibly a larger office space in the future.... I do have a bathroom ruffed in... well.... kinda.....
I do want to get the main done soon... I have 2 40 foot Sea cans. that I want to be unloaded by June..... and of course my cars.. but I can't even attempt any of that due to the weather(they are completely snowed in.)
Thanks again!
 
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N

Norwell Equipped

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Palookaville
George did manage to get one window in one Dormer.. but as mentioned .. the weather has been miserable... storm after storm....
we have got 2 feet in the last 2 weeks....
On another note... 80% of the homes in our town are over 100 years old... and with this years snow..... concern is with snow weight....
Ice is a big deal as well,.... as you can see poor roof insulation causes massive ice build up on the troughs and sides......
Local contractors are going to be fixing a ton of roofs this spring.
Some homes in town have 3-5 feet of snow build up....
yikes!

91.jpg92.jpg
 
6

67CarGuy

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Feb 6, 2008
Messages
763
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Outside Boston, MA
Love to see the progress, especially with all the snow!

Re: foaming around your windows... I just sat in on a seminar on flashing and insulating around windows last week, and the concern they mentioned with using foam is that it rarely fills the entire cavity, unless you're really careful with your detailing (i.e. taking a longer time than a typical contractor or laborer would).

The better choice described was to use mineral wool (which doesn't hold moisture) between the framing and window, then backer rod, then caulking to create an air seal at the inside face of the wall. I'm not sure if you're planning to trim out your windows or not, and also realize it's a garage, but it's also your studio... well, the trim would hide the caulking. Just a thought.

Also, that white pickup might want to move before the snow comes off the roof... :willy_nil
 
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N

Norwell Equipped

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Jul 15, 2015
Messages
160
Location
Palookaville
67CarGuy said:
Love to see the progress, especially with all the snow!

Re: foaming around your windows... I just sat in on a seminar on flashing and insulating around windows last week, and the concern they mentioned with using foam is that it rarely fills the entire cavity, unless you're really careful with your detailing (i.e. taking a longer time than a typical contractor or laborer would).

The better choice described was to use mineral wool (which doesn't hold moisture) between the framing and window, then backer rod, then caulking to create an air seal at the inside face of the wall. I'm not sure if you're planning to trim out your windows or not, and also realize it's a garage, but it's also your studio... well, the trim would hide the caulking. Just a thought.

Also, that white pickup might want to move before the snow comes off the roof... :willy_nil
Click to expand...
Interesting on the mineral wool.I will look into that!
Yea. that's my pick up.... I have already moved it.
lol
 
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phred

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Apr 23, 2009
Messages
527
Location
NC
Regarding ghost shield I have used it in two of my shops. The first out preformed the second by far. The initial finish of the slab is key as far as I have been able to determine. The first shop I built specifically for my self and specified the concrete to be 5000 psi and the finish to be “burned” slick like what you see in the high box warehouses. I applied a densifier to the concrete after 60days to bring the surface up to 6500 psi and then applied 2 coats of ghost shield. The floor repelled oil and dirt pretty well but would stain. The second shop I purchased and had unknown concrete mix strength. I added a densifier and ghosts shield. It still performs well but a better finish would have made it nicer. I like this over epoxy as I work my shops pretty hard and do a lot of welding and cutting. Epoxy can’t take that kind of abuse and still look nice.
Photos 1&2 are the first shop.
Photo 3 is the 2nd shop.
 

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5

57 Fargo

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Joined
Jun 2, 2015
Messages
10
Location
Grimshaw Alberta
Norwell Equipped said:
Many Thanks!.....
Yes. the dormers are fully functional on the second floor... the upstairs will serve as storage and possibly a larger office space in the future.... I do have a bathroom ruffed in... well.... kinda.....
I do want to get the main done soon... I have 2 40 foot Sea cans. that I want to be unloaded by June..... and of course my cars.. but I can't even attempt any of that due to the weather(they are completely snowed in.)
Thanks again!
Click to expand...

If you haven’t got everything moved by the beginning of July I’m happy to give you a hand for a couple days when we head that way.
 
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N

Norwell Equipped

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Joined
Jul 15, 2015
Messages
160
Location
Palookaville
57 Fargo said:
If you haven’t got everything moved by the beginning of July I’m happy to give you a hand for a couple days when we head that way.
Click to expand...
Lane..I am pretty sure I will have to have all moved in for July..... Or I will have a breakdown! lol!
Very Kind Offer.. but I would prefer for us to load an engine and enjoy a beer.
As that date gets closer. we definitely will be speaking. The last 6 months has been a complete whirlwind here.... buying, selling,moving, a new granddaughter and sadly. the death of my wife's sister.(very young.).... and of course.. work.
Your engine and parts are stored at a friends place.. so it's an easy reach.

We shall talk via the phone soon to make somewhat of a plan.
I also have a lead on a friend who owns a trucking company that ships beef to Edmonton.... working that angle too.
 
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