OP
Modern Jess
Well-known member
Thanks for the tips! I'm definitely going to try the rub-on approach next time.
Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT The Scooter Workshop
- Thread starter Modern Jess
- Start date
Workspaces sized between 265 and 485 squarefeet.
Thanks for the tips! I'm definitely going to try the rub-on approach next time.
dittle fart around
Well-known member
I used to work on high voltage substations and we ran the Wiremold (call gutters or troughs) across the walls at ceiling height then conduit down to 4 x 4 outlet boxes. The troughs were fed from overhead wireways. Everything was surface mounted.
OP
Modern Jess
Well-known member
Mine are effectively surface mounted. It's just that I've built up the rest of the wall around it.
In other words, I didn't have to cut into the studs to get them flush. I just had to bump out the rest of all the walls.
sakurama
Well-known member
lonestarky
Well-known member
It has to be something with a scooter. A cutout for a vespa part? Location for a jack or lift for a scooter? Perhaps something Mac or scotch related?
Jc_401
Member
im gonna throw in a guess - exhaust extraction system for when your working on 2-strokes
flybefree
Well-known member
1: Great thread
2: "Laser Engineers do it with mirrors" bumper sticker shown early on is classic
3: Ceiling, air lines, and over all "Silicon Valley Scooter Control" aesthetic is AWESOME
4: My parts organizers now, literally, make me SICK TO MY STOMACH (thanks)
5: All points numbered and in order of importance as a salute to your OCD.
That is all.
No, keep up the good work!
Shaun
2: "Laser Engineers do it with mirrors" bumper sticker shown early on is classic
3: Ceiling, air lines, and over all "Silicon Valley Scooter Control" aesthetic is AWESOME
4: My parts organizers now, literally, make me SICK TO MY STOMACH (thanks)
5: All points numbered and in order of importance as a salute to your OCD.
That is all.
No, keep up the good work!
Shaun
OP
Modern Jess
Well-known member
Gosh, I didn't think you guys would actually start hazarding actual guesses. But since you did, no point keeping you in suspense for six months.
The recess is positioned to allow for one of the axis drive motors on a Tormach mill, which will eventually sit in this corner of the shop. The drive motor protrudes 7-ish inches off the back of the mill, which makes the depth excessive. This recess will take about 4 inches off of that, making the overall mill sit a bit closer to the wall.
lonestarky
Well-known member
Samsonite! I was way off!
OP
Modern Jess
Well-known member
1. Thanks!
2. Kind of corny, but definitely made me smile when I first entered the workshop with the realtor.
3. [takes a bow]
4. You're welcome.
5. Much appreciated.
OP
Modern Jess
Well-known member
This image demonstrates the problem a bit more clearly:
OP
Modern Jess
Well-known member
Score again.
OP
Modern Jess
Well-known member
I just keep taking bites of the elephant.
Drywall is up in the corner where the mill will go.
Drywall is up in the corner where the mill will go.
OopsClunkThud
Active member
Progress! That's two walls down and two to go, right?
OP
Modern Jess
Well-known member
That's 3.2 walls with drywall hung, though only 1.5 walls have been fully finished and painted. The bare studs in the shop are quickly disappearing.
metalhead140
Well-known member
Looking great! Jealous of those drawers, they will make awesome storage. I like the clean but functional look you are going for with everything. The conduit mounted flush with the walls is brilliant.
flybefree
Well-known member
All of this and a Tormach mill? Nice.
v.r.
Shaun
v.r.
Shaun
OP
Modern Jess
Well-known member
Thanks!
Well, eventually. I vowed to finish all the drywall before even ordering the mill, so at this rate I'll have one in 2017.
timbitca
Well-known member
Damn, am I ever glad I clicked through on your builds from your signature.
Awesome looking shop and garage!
Now hurry up and get some finished pictures in here
Awesome looking shop and garage!
Now hurry up and get some finished pictures in here
OP
Modern Jess
Well-known member
Now hurry up and get some finished pictures in here
Will do. Thanks!
OP
Modern Jess
Well-known member
Small project this evening while I'm waiting for the 90-minute mud to dry. This will be significant to maybe three people here, but so be it.
I needed some drawer pulls for the cabinets I put in a few weeks back. This is what I chose. By the time I'm done with this shop build, there won't be very much patina left in the building. It's not that I don't like patina, it's just that I'm building a different kind of space to work in. These, though, are a deliberate bit of "old stuff" that fits well with the theme of this workshop.
I needed some drawer pulls for the cabinets I put in a few weeks back. This is what I chose. By the time I'm done with this shop build, there won't be very much patina left in the building. It's not that I don't like patina, it's just that I'm building a different kind of space to work in. These, though, are a deliberate bit of "old stuff" that fits well with the theme of this workshop.
Rockcam
Well-known member
There is maybe one person on this forum that will know exactly what this is for, and I'm not entirely sure he has ever read this thread.
Hmmm...that person sounds like A/P Mech.
OP
Modern Jess
Well-known member
Good guess, but I was actually thinking of a user named works4me.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2862168#post2862168
sparkymoto
New member
Love the old LH and RH cowl latch cabinet pulls. Perfect touch. Been watching from the beginning man and look forward to each post!
OP
Modern Jess
Well-known member
works4me
Well-known member
I think this should win an award for "most ridiculously specific customization ever". I'm putting in this recess in the wall for reasons that will eventually become clear. There is maybe one person on this forum that will know exactly what this is for, and I'm not entirely sure he has ever read this thread.
Reading through this thread I finally caught the reference! It really seems like when they design these machines they don't really think about clearance issues very well.
FYI It's useful to have a pallet jack for making small adjustments to the position once the mill is in place.
BTW I love your project! You and I share a similar eye towards "functional aesthetics". I love the saying: "Why hut with an ugly dog"?
OP
Modern Jess
Well-known member
Final Wall
Okay, it's been too long without an update. Part of that is because I didn't have any "pretty" pictures on hand -- as soon as I finished the corner where the Tormach mill is eventually going to go, I promptly rolled everything into that corner that was blocking the rest of the shop before I even took any pictures. Here's the status of that corner now:
This allowed me to empty and disassemble the large pallet rack on the final wall (I gave it to a friend of mine) and expose this:
This wall is the closest to my neighbors (and their bedrooms, as it happens) so I'm taking extra care to make this wall relatively soundproof. Thus, the fiberglass had to go (even though it was in pretty good shape) and was replaced by Roxul:
Next up: stucco repair!
Okay, it's been too long without an update. Part of that is because I didn't have any "pretty" pictures on hand -- as soon as I finished the corner where the Tormach mill is eventually going to go, I promptly rolled everything into that corner that was blocking the rest of the shop before I even took any pictures. Here's the status of that corner now:
This allowed me to empty and disassemble the large pallet rack on the final wall (I gave it to a friend of mine) and expose this:
This wall is the closest to my neighbors (and their bedrooms, as it happens) so I'm taking extra care to make this wall relatively soundproof. Thus, the fiberglass had to go (even though it was in pretty good shape) and was replaced by Roxul:
Next up: stucco repair!
OP
Modern Jess
Well-known member
Stucco Repair
On the rear corner of the shop (this is again the closest corner to the neighbors bedrooms) there used to be an in-wall fan. I had procured an updated version of the same fan from Broan with identical dimensions (30 years later!) but the more I thought about how to keep sound from leaking out through that opening, the more I thought that there has to be a better way. My air compressor will ultimately be in this corner of the shop (enclosed in a ventilated closet) and I really don't want to make enemies of my neighbors. I finally decided that this was the worst place I could possibly have an opening in the stucco, and decided to close it up and put the ventilation for the air compressor elsewhere.
Here's the original fan (before I gutted the shop) from inside:
Okay, I'll be up front here: I've never done stucco before. This particular job seemed too small to try to hire someone for, though, and I am always eager to learn a new skill. So I hit youtube (as I often do) for tips. Weeding out the idiots on youtube from the people who actually know what they're talking about is a challenge when you yourself don't actually possess the skill you're looking for, but over the years I've developed a reasonable ability to tell the difference.
I surmised from my research the following high level points:
- Stucco of any reasonable size will generally be comprised of a scratch coat, a brown coat, and a texture coat.
- Wire mesh is important
- You must must must restore the paper backing before stuccoing, and you must use proper overlap for water shedding.
I already had some tarpaper. I went to HD and bought some quick set stucco patch, some poultry mesh (which is absolutely not the right gauge, I know) and some Sikaflex caulk. I already had most of the tools I needed, but I bought a rubber sponge float to round out my collection.
This is how it went down. First, I used my air hammer to break out some of the stucco around the hole, so I could get to the wire underneath. Then I tucked some tarpaper under the top end of the paper and above the bottom layer, and caulked the seams (and the edges) with Sikaflex:
Next, I tied in two layers of (inferior) poultry mesh. I kind of feel not great about this part, but I couldn't find the proper gauge stuff that I'm supposed to use. Hopefully the two layers will compensate somewhat. Also, it's not a huge hole, and if it cracks a bit, I'm mostly okay with that.
Then it was on to the scratch coat:
And then finally the brown coat / texture coat. Okay, there's no actual texture coat. But this coat will blend in to the rest of the wall reasonably well. Plus, I never see this corner of the shop, so if the texture doesn't quite match, I'm okay with that too.
I wheeled my small (but noisy) air compressor over to that corner (where the big air compressor will go, eventually) emptied the tank and turned it on. I then went outside the wall with a dB meter (on my phone) and got a reading of 65dB standing directly in front of the patched hole. And most of that was the wind blowing. I think the neighbor's AC compressor was louder than my air compressor behind the wall. When I drywall (and possibly use green glue and double drywall in the compressor closet) I expect the compressor to be almost undetectable.
Which is exactly the way I want it.
On the rear corner of the shop (this is again the closest corner to the neighbors bedrooms) there used to be an in-wall fan. I had procured an updated version of the same fan from Broan with identical dimensions (30 years later!) but the more I thought about how to keep sound from leaking out through that opening, the more I thought that there has to be a better way. My air compressor will ultimately be in this corner of the shop (enclosed in a ventilated closet) and I really don't want to make enemies of my neighbors. I finally decided that this was the worst place I could possibly have an opening in the stucco, and decided to close it up and put the ventilation for the air compressor elsewhere.
Here's the original fan (before I gutted the shop) from inside:
Okay, I'll be up front here: I've never done stucco before. This particular job seemed too small to try to hire someone for, though, and I am always eager to learn a new skill. So I hit youtube (as I often do) for tips. Weeding out the idiots on youtube from the people who actually know what they're talking about is a challenge when you yourself don't actually possess the skill you're looking for, but over the years I've developed a reasonable ability to tell the difference.
I surmised from my research the following high level points:
- Stucco of any reasonable size will generally be comprised of a scratch coat, a brown coat, and a texture coat.
- Wire mesh is important
- You must must must restore the paper backing before stuccoing, and you must use proper overlap for water shedding.
I already had some tarpaper. I went to HD and bought some quick set stucco patch, some poultry mesh (which is absolutely not the right gauge, I know) and some Sikaflex caulk. I already had most of the tools I needed, but I bought a rubber sponge float to round out my collection.
This is how it went down. First, I used my air hammer to break out some of the stucco around the hole, so I could get to the wire underneath. Then I tucked some tarpaper under the top end of the paper and above the bottom layer, and caulked the seams (and the edges) with Sikaflex:
Next, I tied in two layers of (inferior) poultry mesh. I kind of feel not great about this part, but I couldn't find the proper gauge stuff that I'm supposed to use. Hopefully the two layers will compensate somewhat. Also, it's not a huge hole, and if it cracks a bit, I'm mostly okay with that.
Then it was on to the scratch coat:
And then finally the brown coat / texture coat. Okay, there's no actual texture coat. But this coat will blend in to the rest of the wall reasonably well. Plus, I never see this corner of the shop, so if the texture doesn't quite match, I'm okay with that too.
I wheeled my small (but noisy) air compressor over to that corner (where the big air compressor will go, eventually) emptied the tank and turned it on. I then went outside the wall with a dB meter (on my phone) and got a reading of 65dB standing directly in front of the patched hole. And most of that was the wind blowing. I think the neighbor's AC compressor was louder than my air compressor behind the wall. When I drywall (and possibly use green glue and double drywall in the compressor closet) I expect the compressor to be almost undetectable.
Which is exactly the way I want it.
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Getho
Member
Awesome work as always.
I'm living through you as I sit in my apartment, my tools and motorcycle 40km's away.
I'm living through you as I sit in my apartment, my tools and motorcycle 40km's away.
Awesome work as always.
I'm living through you as I sit in my apartment, my tools and motorcycle 40km's away.
I'm with Getho, but my Bikes and Tools are 9730km away!! (6050miles)
Keep up the great work!
OP
Modern Jess
Well-known member
Thanks!
I'm living through you as I sit in my apartment, my tools and motorcycle 40km's away.
Ouch! That's too far. Get those bikes and ride!
Hey, I learned everything I know from Kirk! And yeah, he's almost local for me as well. Small world!
OP
Modern Jess
Well-known member
Quick update: I got a little bit of work done on the compressor closet. The two walls are up, at least. The short wall is a staggered stud pattern for noise. The other walls will get a different soundproof treatment, probably channel on whisper clips and double drywall + green glue. Should be pretty quiet when it's all done.
OP
Modern Jess
Well-known member
I also managed to find some pictures of the mostly-finished mill corner before I immediately filled it with ****:
OP
Modern Jess
Well-known member
I've actually been a bit distracted lately by a side project that's almost shop-related. I've wanted to put up a weather station for quite a while now, but hadn't pulled everything together. I finally immersed myself in the subject, did all the research I felt I needed, bought a fairly high-end system, and wired it all up onto the roof of the workshop. It's a Davis ProVantage2 hardwired to a Xytronix X-320M weather station controller. The Xytronix box is a self-contained web server and also uploads weather station data every 5 minutes to Weather Underground and also to CWOP / NOAA. The whole thing is connected and powered via Power-Over-Ethernet (PoE) on a CAT6 cable running up the mast to a little weatherproof box.
OP
Modern Jess
Well-known member
Another very small update (that took a ton of work to do). I finally managed to put up drywall in this (almost) last corner of the shop, next to the compressor closet. I'm tentatively planning on putting my welders in this corner, barring some unforeseen change of plans.
Prior to putting up the drywall, of course, I wired up the last set of cans (yes! The last ones!) and insulated the exterior wall as well as the staggered stud interior wall of the compressor closet.
Prior to putting up the drywall, of course, I wired up the last set of cans (yes! The last ones!) and insulated the exterior wall as well as the staggered stud interior wall of the compressor closet.
lonestarky
Well-known member
Looking great. How's the weather station working? Do you have to calibrate the sensors in any way prior to install, or yearly?
OP
Modern Jess
Well-known member
The weather station is working great. I really wanted something self contained and automated (not reliant on my computer, specifically) and this setup met that requirement. The Xytronix (ControlByWeb) X-320M has been rock-solid reliable, and hasn't missed a single upload event yet.
The only calibration I had to do was for the barometric pressure sensor. Everything else is just plugging in known numbers to the X-320M interface (slope and offset, typically) for the Davis Instruments sensor package. After that, they run pretty much forever without further intervention.
As part of the process of getting my weather data ingested into the massive NOAA system, it goes through a screening / quality control process, and the results of that are publicly viewable. According to their charts, my barometric pressure was ever so slightly off -- a few millibars -- and so I adjusted the parameters to bring it in line with the expected values. It's now within much less than 1 millibar of expected values. As to how they get the expected values, I'm not sure -- I think it's an aggregate of the stations around me, adjusted for reported elevation of each.
Weather Underground also makes things really easy, as they take data and give you back a hyper-local weather forecast for your station location, using radar data plus a bunch of other data (including your own).
You can see my weather station here: San Tomas Aquinos Weather History
And the forecast for my location here: San Tomas Aquinos Weather Forecast
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Denwood
Well-known member
Jess, what a great build! The electrical conduit...perfect score. We completely redid my company's new home starting from a warehouse gut. The wall system was a furred airspace assembly, so 2x6 walls with fiberglass R20, 2 inches SM (on the inside!), foil reflective vapor barrier facing inside, then 2x2 horizontal furring, then drywall. The airspace provides channels to run all electrical etc. on the warm side of the envelope, and also a thermal reflective space. Typically heat costs for a building our size (very cold winters with lows in the -35C range) would be $2500/month. We spent a max of $378 in the coldest month. Conversely, we see +30C in the summer, and our electrical bill never exceeded $450/month in summer..that's AC, 10 staff/computers and two tenants. I suspect your wall system works just as well.
We also did internal insulated ductwork for our 900 square ft studio, as well as tenant spaces. It's very effective at dampening cross talk via the air handler systems.
Love your scooters..and also you're apparently crazy for driving them cross continent..ha.
Have you done any zwave or zigby automation in your space? I'm looking at a weather station/zwave to add some efficiencies to my business HVAC system. It looks like you're already well immersed in the weather portion of that goal...
I wish I had not read this thread...damn. I can see $$$ blowing into my garage project.
Cheers,
Dennis.
We also did internal insulated ductwork for our 900 square ft studio, as well as tenant spaces. It's very effective at dampening cross talk via the air handler systems.
Love your scooters..and also you're apparently crazy for driving them cross continent..ha.
Have you done any zwave or zigby automation in your space? I'm looking at a weather station/zwave to add some efficiencies to my business HVAC system. It looks like you're already well immersed in the weather portion of that goal...
I wish I had not read this thread...damn. I can see $$$ blowing into my garage project.
Cheers,
Dennis.