THE WALKER-TURNER THREAD - Post your Walker-Turner pics
- Thread starter Hoorn
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@LindaPass after going through several catalogs what I believe it to be is a flexible shaft machine mount.
Image below are two pages from the 1936 Walker Turner catalog. By the 1940s the design was changed and it had four legs on casters instead of three.
Image below are two pages from the 1936 Walker Turner catalog. By the 1940s the design was changed and it had four legs on casters instead of three.
@harleyberger I spent considerable time looking through one Walker Turner catalog after another, and well after the driver line was discontinued. Like you, I believe that had to come with something fairly big because Walker Turner didn't really do a lot of hand tool sales.
That style of ratchet is meant to be stacked together with the sockets as you have it shown, and is a type ratchet a serious mechanic would never use. Because of that it leads me to believe it accompanied a machine but I just can't find which. Maybe it was something sold locally at a Walker Turner dealership?
Either way that's quite a find, nicely done.
harleyberger
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@Hoorn Thanks for the info. I found it in a cabinet in a dimly lit basement. At first glance I thought it was an old Snap-on ratchet of some sort based on the knurled, stamped sockets. That's why I grabbed it. There were also a bunch of lathes, band saws and other power tools around, so it must have been used for one of those tools.
B Halverson
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Some Walker-Turner literature I happened across while looking through a junk-drawer the other day;
B Halverson
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And;
Wow,that's a hell of a coincidence,this set is now amongst my collection of WT stuff,thanks btw!!Ohh I was also not able to find anything in any catalogs about it.I don't think I've seen the cash boxes in a catalog either.
Dan
What's a good price for a Radial Arm Drill? Unsure of the exact model, but it appears to be earlier "J" model with 16 speeds. It does not have the original base. It runs and works, but its definitely been used. I do mostly wood working, so I don't really need it, but i've always wanted a radial drill!
Well I ended up picking it up. It's a little worse than I was hoping, but certainly not the end of the world. I was able to see it work under power and verify there was nothing majorly wrong with it. The spindle return spring doesn't work and it's missing the handle to lock the head from moving in and out. I plan on going through it anyways, so it wasn't a deal breaker, but wasn't able to negotiate much on it.
I can't read the model number but I believe it's a 1711-2, going off some publications. 6" quill travel, no1 morse taper.
I can't read the model number but I believe it's a 1711-2, going off some publications. 6" quill travel, no1 morse taper.
Walker Turner 1-147. Paid $150, but it was in nice condition. I did some light clean up and I upgraded the Jacobs 6A Hartford chuck to a heavier duty 34-33 Hartford. I don't see anything that appears not original to the drill, and all the paint is original . All bearings are good, the drill is very quiet. It came with the low speed pulleys, but I won't use those. I am happy with the four speeds. The Sears Companion motor appears to be original also, although it will occasionally hang up on start and not spin. Not sure if there is a start circuit inside the housing. Will have to research. The belt that came on it was a 470 and haggard, the link belt is temporary until I secure a 440.
shoot summ
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Very nice!!Walker Turner 1-147. Paid $150, but it was in nice condition. I did some light clean up and I upgraded the Jacobs 6A Hartford chuck to a heavier duty 34-33 Hartford. I don't see anything that appears not original to the drill, and all the paint is original . All bearings are good, the drill is very quiet. It came with the low speed pulleys, but I won't use those. I am happy with the four speeds. The Sears Companion motor appears to be original also, although it will occasionally hang up on start and not spin. Not sure if there is a start circuit inside the housing. Will have to research. The belt that came on it was a 470 and haggard, the link belt is temporary until I secure a 440.
I have a similar Companion motor that hangs on start up too, will be interesting to see what you discover.
Nutria
Well-known member
There might be a flat start capacitor under the mounting base. When it hangs, will it spin on its own if you give it some initial help?
I’m rebuilding one of these right now. It’s in considerably worserer looking shape.
Not coincidentally, the (likely) original motor started right up on the first try, but then wouldn’t start up on the next. I decided to push that part off until much later because I’m kind of flush with good motors.
I’m definitely interested in the (presumably cap) solution.
Not coincidentally, the (likely) original motor started right up on the first try, but then wouldn’t start up on the next. I decided to push that part off until much later because I’m kind of flush with good motors.
I’m definitely interested in the (presumably cap) solution.
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Beerhippie
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Centrifugal starting switch sticking? It should be under the back end of the case. I'd try electronic contact cleaner (like DeOxit) before even opening it.
@wreckless a great restoration project. Removal of the inverted pulley will likely result in your discovery of a deep string of curse words you didn't know you had in you. @JoCoSawdust will attest to this as well. Here are a couple excerpts from 11b's Craftsman drill press thread regarding that particular drill press. Walker Turner made these DPs for Craftsman for a short period.
Post in thread '11b30b4's Vintage Classic Craftsman Drill Press Information Thread' https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...-press-information-thread.484456/post-9583588
Post in thread '11b30b4's Vintage Classic Craftsman Drill Press Information Thread' https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...-press-information-thread.484456/post-9583588
I am looking at buying this 1948 Walker-turner 16” bandsaw metal and wood with transmission. However, it makes a loud rattling noise while running (see video). Current owner said it has always done that and he has been using it since 1987. Turns out he has been running it with the transmission engaged and the plunger on the pulley IN which not how it is supposed to operate. Though it does run smooth in direct drive. It still concerns me, should I still buy it? To see the video please use this link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yxcikED82r9uRKFnd7kgYsCliaij6nOh/view?usp=sharing
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If the owner is willing to remove the wheel mount pulley, open the gearbox and observe the gears, you may be able to see if any damage has been done. That procedure would not be a quick or easy one.
I'm sure there is a decent price tag attached as it has the wood and metal cutting gearbox, and because the entire point of that price tag would be the functionality of the gears and whether or not some or all of the teeth have been stripped, it's not an unreasonable ask. Having said that, when properly engaged and the gears are in mesh, is the speed considerably reduced?
I'm sure there is a decent price tag attached as it has the wood and metal cutting gearbox, and because the entire point of that price tag would be the functionality of the gears and whether or not some or all of the teeth have been stripped, it's not an unreasonable ask. Having said that, when properly engaged and the gears are in mesh, is the speed considerably reduced?
He is asking $800, and it doesn’t turn the wheel when the lever is IN and plunger is out. just makes that clunking noise.
Then it is simply a walker Turner wood cutting bandsaw, the gears are most likely irreparably destroyed. One or two missing teeth can be repaired, not realistically the majority or all of the teeth.aI
I would pass on that band saw.
I also understand, "but I gotta have it", metal cutting gearboxes or various parts thereof do periodically come up for sale on eBay but they won't be cheap.
I would pass on that band saw.
I also understand, "but I gotta have it", metal cutting gearboxes or various parts thereof do periodically come up for sale on eBay but they won't be cheap.
Here is my best effort to describe what happens to the gears in relation to wood and metal cutting.
In the picture below, imagine the geared pulley on the drive shaft. The geared pulley is free floating on the drive shaft and is held in place by being bookended between the drive shaft gear and the pulley hub. The pulley hub is that painted cast iron disc seen in the second picture adjacent to the short side of the pulley.
The pulley hub is very securely fastened to the drive shaft with two large set screws set against two corresponding flat spots milled towards the end of the drive shaft (not visible in picture).
When the lever is out, meaning no gears are not touching each other, and the plunger is in, meaning the pulley hub plunger has now engaged the pulley, upon the rotation of the motor, the pulley is now essentially attached to the drive shaft as if it had a keyway/key. In this configuration it is a 1 to 1 ratio drive. The motor is turning the pulley which is turning the drive shaft/wheel.
When the lever is in, the pulley gears are in mesh with the reduction gear, which turns the small reduction gear, which turns the drive reduction gear. Through these lathe like gears, the drive is reduced to roughly a 10 to 1 ratio.
Obviously in this configuration the plunger needs to be out, so the pulley would be free floating on the drive shaft and the pulley gear is then turning the reduction drive gear.
The drive gear is held onto the shaft with a keyway and so is permanently affixed. With the plunger in as you have described the owner doing, the pulley is now affixed to the drive shaft and the gears are in mesh. So what is happening is the gears are trying to slow it down, the pulley is trying to speed it up, and over time I imagine some if not all of the teeth have been sheared off at least two gears.
Sometimes a visual aid helps, I have an Instagram page with a brief video I made a year ago or so that could help describe this relationship. You don't need Instagram to view it.
www.instagram.com
In the picture below, imagine the geared pulley on the drive shaft. The geared pulley is free floating on the drive shaft and is held in place by being bookended between the drive shaft gear and the pulley hub. The pulley hub is that painted cast iron disc seen in the second picture adjacent to the short side of the pulley.
The pulley hub is very securely fastened to the drive shaft with two large set screws set against two corresponding flat spots milled towards the end of the drive shaft (not visible in picture).
When the lever is out, meaning no gears are not touching each other, and the plunger is in, meaning the pulley hub plunger has now engaged the pulley, upon the rotation of the motor, the pulley is now essentially attached to the drive shaft as if it had a keyway/key. In this configuration it is a 1 to 1 ratio drive. The motor is turning the pulley which is turning the drive shaft/wheel.
When the lever is in, the pulley gears are in mesh with the reduction gear, which turns the small reduction gear, which turns the drive reduction gear. Through these lathe like gears, the drive is reduced to roughly a 10 to 1 ratio.
Obviously in this configuration the plunger needs to be out, so the pulley would be free floating on the drive shaft and the pulley gear is then turning the reduction drive gear.
The drive gear is held onto the shaft with a keyway and so is permanently affixed. With the plunger in as you have described the owner doing, the pulley is now affixed to the drive shaft and the gears are in mesh. So what is happening is the gears are trying to slow it down, the pulley is trying to speed it up, and over time I imagine some if not all of the teeth have been sheared off at least two gears.
Sometimes a visual aid helps, I have an Instagram page with a brief video I made a year ago or so that could help describe this relationship. You don't need Instagram to view it.
OldAmericanTools on Instagram: "Inching closer to finishing this 1940 Walker Turner band saw. Want to show inside the gearbox before it's all greased up and closed how the gears operate. Just an outstanding, well thought out and engineered example fr
80 likes, 12 comments - oldamericantools on July 7, 2023: "Inching closer to finishing this 1940 Walker Turner band saw. Want to show inside the gearbox before it's all greased up and closed how the gears operate. Just an outstanding, well thought out and engineered example from the Golden age...
www.instagram.com
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shoot summ
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So running the machine with the lever locked in, and the pulley locked in is going to remove teeth from at least one of the gears in the gearbox...Here is my best effort to describe what happens to the gears in relation to wood and metal cutting.
In the picture below, imagine the pulley on the drive shaft. The geared pulley is essentially held in place by being bookended between the drive shaft gear and the pulley hub. The pulley hub is that painted cast iron disc seen in the second picture adjacent to the short side of the pulley.
The pulley hub is affixed to the drive shaft with two large set screws set against two corresponding flat spots milled towards the end of the drive shaft (not visible in picture).
When the lever is out, meaning the gears are not touching each other, and the plunger is in, meaning the pulley hub has now engaged the pulley, upon the rotation of the motor, the pulley is now essentially attached to the drive shaft as if it had a keyway/key. In this configuration it is one to one drive. The motor is turning the pulley which is turning the drive shaft/wheel.
When the lever is in, the pulley gears are in mesh with the reduction gear, which turns the small reduction gear, which turns the drive reduction gear. Through these lathe like gears, the drive is reduced to roughly 10 to 1. Obviously in this configuration the plunger needs to be out, so the pulley would be free floating on the drive shaft and the gears themselves are turning the reduction drive gear. The drive gear is held onto the shaft with a key way and so is permanently affixed. With the plunger in as you have described the owner doing, the pulley is now affixed to the drive shaft and the gears are in mesh. So what is happening is the gears are trying to slow it down, the pulley is trying to speed it up, and over time I imagine some if not all of the teeth have been sheared off.
Sometimes a visual aid helps, I have an Instagram page with a brief video I made a year ago or so that could help describe this relationship. You don't need Instagram to view it.
OldAmericanTools on Instagram: "Inching closer to finishing this 1940 Walker Turner band saw. Want to show inside the gearbox before it's all greased up and closed how the gears operate. Just an outstanding, well thought out and engineered example fr
80 likes, 12 comments - oldamericantools on July 7, 2023: "Inching closer to finishing this 1940 Walker Turner band saw. Want to show inside the gearbox before it's all greased up and closed how the gears operate. Just an outstanding, well thought out and engineered example from the Golden age...
Thank you for that, he also never put gear oil in it ran it dry for 30+ years. It does run smooth in direct drive. He wants $800 what do you think is a fair price?So running the machine with the lever locked in, and the pulley locked in is going to remove teeth from at least one of the gears in the gearbox...
I'm usually reluctant to say what I think a fair price is because it's often based on locale, but since you're asking:
It's a 16 inch which has value, so does the cast iron base, however the gearbox is destroyed, the pulley cover is homemade, does not have an original motor, slapped on amateurish receptacle box mounted on the front upper wheel, no fence, and a paint job that would have to be redone the day you bring it home. $800 is outrageous, $400 tops. And that's assuming everything runs well, no cracks, trunnion is solid, etc.
You will probably have to start from scratch for a new gearbox or just take it off entirely and run it as a wood cutting bandsaw. That's my two cents.
It's a 16 inch which has value, so does the cast iron base, however the gearbox is destroyed, the pulley cover is homemade, does not have an original motor, slapped on amateurish receptacle box mounted on the front upper wheel, no fence, and a paint job that would have to be redone the day you bring it home. $800 is outrageous, $400 tops. And that's assuming everything runs well, no cracks, trunnion is solid, etc.
You will probably have to start from scratch for a new gearbox or just take it off entirely and run it as a wood cutting bandsaw. That's my two cents.
Thank you for that, he also never put gear oil in it ran it dry for 30+ years. It does run smooth in direct drive. He wants $800 what do you think is a fair priceSo running the machine with the lever locked in, and the pulley locked in is going to remove teeth from at least one of the gears in the gearbox...
shoot summ
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@Hoorn gave a fair assessment in his post above, $400ish, just because it is a 16", and has the base, I'd still want to get it for less though, because of the terrible paint job.
Beerhippie
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Due to the fact that the PO pretty much destroyed it through incompetence and lack of simple maintenance, I'd offer $50, take it or leave it.@Hoorn gave a fair assessment in his post above, $400ish, just because it is a 16", and has the base, I'd still want to get it for less though, because of the terrible paint job.
FFS, treat your tools and toys with some respect.
And RTFM!
shoot summ
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It is pretty clear on the shift lever and locking pin what not to do, don't even have to read the manual. These days there is a fair amount of value in just the parts on that saw, the base would bring $150-$200. Some of those saws the trunions get broken so that is another $100-$150.
2ndTry
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SCREAMINYELLOW
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After reaching out to @Hoorn with a few questions, he convinced me to share my current restoration project.
From what I can tell with some process of elimination, it is a 1940 Walker Turner 900 series 15” DP. My father found it for me after I asked him to keep an eye out for any deals on small drill presses for my small townhouse garage. He thought it’d be funny to show up on his next visit with “a **** pile.” Must’ve forgotten that I enjoy taking things apart and obsessing over small details.
Anyways, here’s a few before shots:
I have some pretty severe OCD with my projects, so the drill marks (while minimal compared to some I’ve seen) aren’t gonna fly with this going through a full tear down restoration. I think I’ll repurpose it as a shelf/table as these aren’t too common. May try to have it resurfaced down the line. So, I’m using an old pristine surface Craftsman DP table as I had seen another restoration done with one subbed in and thought it looked fairly nice. Of course, if a pristine surface WT pops up anywhere I will swap it in.
Progress pics so far:
From what I can tell with some process of elimination, it is a 1940 Walker Turner 900 series 15” DP. My father found it for me after I asked him to keep an eye out for any deals on small drill presses for my small townhouse garage. He thought it’d be funny to show up on his next visit with “a **** pile.” Must’ve forgotten that I enjoy taking things apart and obsessing over small details.
Anyways, here’s a few before shots:
I have some pretty severe OCD with my projects, so the drill marks (while minimal compared to some I’ve seen) aren’t gonna fly with this going through a full tear down restoration. I think I’ll repurpose it as a shelf/table as these aren’t too common. May try to have it resurfaced down the line. So, I’m using an old pristine surface Craftsman DP table as I had seen another restoration done with one subbed in and thought it looked fairly nice. Of course, if a pristine surface WT pops up anywhere I will swap it in.
Progress pics so far:
Coming along nicely @SCREAMINYELLOW
Good call with the red oxide primer, and rocking a temporary Craftsman table. Will look terrific when done!
Good call with the red oxide primer, and rocking a temporary Craftsman table. Will look terrific when done!
jd5000
Well-known member
Do WT drill presses and Craftsman DP have the same diameter posts?